Sr20det overheating

[240msh]

Just swapped a s13 blacktop sr into my s14 and it's overheating but my radiator is cold still.. do you guys think it's just a stuck thermostat?

[Primo's Silvia]

Sounds like it hit up these guys , they have different options

http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-21200-..._p_988461.html

[Juan@Fontananissan]

http://www.nissanraceshopoemparts.co...MDEwNCZyPTY%3D

start with that and bleeding the coolant properly. also make sure it's not your sending unit acting up.

http://www.nissanraceshopoemparts.co...nit-2508089907

[240msh]

I ordered an isr thermostat already but it's on backorder for another 2 weeks that's the only reason I didn't swap it out already. Thanks though! Also don't I just unbolt the bleeder valve and fill it up? That's what I always did with my ka and it was fine

[crash n' burn]

Fill up the car, run it, get it up to temp with the cap off, massage the upper and lower radiator hoses. Make sure you're heater is on heat full blast. You can crack the bleeder valve open periodically if you want until only coolant comes out. Parking it on a gently incline nose up should be a given.

I have an IR temp sensor on my multi-meter to verify temps if i'm doubting my gauge/sensors

[brndck]

Originally Posted by 240msh

I ordered an isr thermostat already

wow. you're brave. I'd rather have a oem or stant or gates than isr.

[feito]

Yes, im sure you local vatozone or ohreally has gates or stant in stock. You should forget about isr and just go with one of those and bleed it good.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by feito

Yes, im sure you local vatozone or ohreally has gates or stant in stock. You should forget about isr and just go with one of those and bleed it good.

bleed thoroughly, water wetter, don't use tap water, only demineralized water.

best option for bleeding, imo, is still the lisle funnel

looks like they now have a revised version that's a couple bucks cheaper

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-S.../dp/B00A6AS6LY

[jedi03]

oe will be better imo if your not tracking it...autozone is CHEAP too...I think I got mine for 10 or 20 bucks

[G-Sep]

Originally Posted by jedi03

oe will be better imo if your not tracking it...autozone is CHEAP too...I think I got mine for 10 or 20 bucks

Same pn as the Sentra one?

[240msh]

So i pulled the thermostat out and it's a nismo thermostat.. just to make sure I used some autozone thermostat and it's still overheating. Also I have no heater everything under the dash is gone. If I gut the autozone thermostat and use it like that so there's still resistance and it overheats still after its bled I'll order a water pump. Any other suggestions? On a tight budget after this swap lmao

[Primo's Silvia]

When the car is warmed up and so on, I understand it's still cold but when u accelerate do you see the coolant flow? Or does it remain still, and don't forget that the " jiggle valve " on the thermostat must be at the highest position

[240msh]

What do you mean by that? and yes the little jiggle valve thing is at the highest postion

[Trap Star]

You could always test the thermostat by heating it in water on the stove. Also might want to try running it without a thermostat at all. I knew lots of folks when I lived in Florida that ran their cars that way. I wouldn't advise it as a permanent solution but its better than constantly overheating the car. Otherwise you should try bleeding the system thoroughly. Sometimes if you get air trapped in the heater core it helps to put the front wheels in the air and run the heater full blast.

[240msh]

Ok so my car won't overheat at idle but will once I drive down the street.. lower rad hose is still cold but the upper is hot, radiator is decently hot but can still touch it. Sounds like a thermostat problem still but I feel like I might need a water pump. Also I don't have a heater core at all it just loops back to the motor using a u shaped hose. Everything under dash is gone

[bardabe]

the only time you need a water pump is when it start pissing out the weep hole, test your thermostat. put it in a pot on teh stove, turn the heat on with a thermostat in the water and see how hot the water is when it starts to open. if thermostat is opening correctly and the water pump aint leaking then one of two things.

you have the wrong coolant temp sensor for your cluster installed on the motor. or you have air bubbles in the system.

-Juan

[240msh]

Alright so I pulled the thermostat out and now it gets to operating temp as fast as it would with a thermostat. Now my radiator gets to its normal temp and lower hose isnt cold anymore. So do you think maybe my temp sensor isnt reading the temp right?

[brndck]

oem Nissan temp gauge is notorious for being worthless
get an aftermarket gauge. autometers are still cheap and plentiful

[jedi03]

sounds like your thermostat was sticking to me...but yes get a good aftermarket temp guage to see what its actually at

[240msh]

Okay, so I got this SR straight from a 180sx front clip. Do I need to change the temp sensor to a KA one? I read on some forum that the stock sr temp sensor on a usdm chassis makes the cluster gauge say its overheating when its not. If thats true maybe thats why it said my car is overheating when its not and the reason why the thermostat wouldnt open is because it wasnt even at operating temp, because it would warm up almost instantly. Im going to eventually get gauges for water temp, oil pressure, and wideband. Just no money right now. Any other suggestions?

[bfellini]

Yes, you need the S14 gauge cluster temp sensor (the one wire sensor), the S13 sensor (SR/KA) outputs a different resistance range, and will not work properly with the S14 gauge cluster.. you can use the one from your original KA if you still have it, or get a replacement from any parts store/dealer for your car...

[bfellini]

Also, if your lower hose remains cold, either your thermostat is not opening, or more likely, there are still are pockets... Air pockets trapped behind the thermostat can potentially cause it to not open, always make sure the hole/jiggle valve is directly at the top most point (12 o'clock) when installing the thermostat, and following the FSM for bleeding the cooling system of air!
If after changing the ECT gauge sensor, and re-bleeding the system, and you're still having coolant temp issues, look into pressure/vacuum testing your cooling system for minute leaks.

[240msh]

So you think that's the problem? I have a S13 SR in a S14 so youre probably right. Also out of the 2 thermostats I had one that was stuck and the other one opens, i also always put the jiggle valve at 12 o'clock. Ill let you know if it fixes it. Thank you

[240msh]

FINALLY. The temp sensor fixed the problem!

[Juan@Fontananissan]

Originally Posted by Juan@Fontananissan

http://www.nissanraceshopoemparts.co...MDEwNCZyPTY%3D

start with that and bleeding the coolant properly. also make sure it's not your sending unit acting up.

http://www.nissanraceshopoemparts.co...nit-2508089907

Originally Posted by 240msh

FINALLY. The temp sensor fixed the problem!

so was i right?

[240msh]

yea, s13 one wire sensor is different from the s14 i guess haha. thanks!

[bardabe]

Originally Posted by bardabe

the only time you need a water pump is when it start pissing out the weep hole, test your thermostat. put it in a pot on teh stove, turn the heat on with a thermostat in the water and see how hot the water is when it starts to open. if thermostat is opening correctly and the water pump aint leaking then one of two things.

you have the wrong coolant temp sensor for your cluster installed on the motor. or you have air bubbles in the system.

-Juan

Originally Posted by 240msh

yea, s13 one wire sensor is different from the s14 i guess haha. thanks!

Yeah they are I guess I should have worded myself better.