Clutch life

[mechanicalmoron]

Clutch life is generally determined by the depth of the rivet heads. There's a spec in the FSM - probably a "was working fine" spec, and a "you can put it back" spec.

I'd put that disc back in. It doesn't look very worn, as long as it's not warped, and the flywheel and pressure plate don't have excessive marking from heat (and nothing you can feel, running your hand over).

If you know anyone who has air tools, or does body work, have them hit the pressure plate and flywheel with a DA. If you can't find the hot spots with your eyes closed, it's good (for this, anyway).

[Brandon240sx]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Clutch life is generally determined by the depth of the rivet heads. There's a spec in the FSM - probably a "was working fine" spec, and a "you can put it back" spec.

I'd put that disc back in. It doesn't look very worn, as long as it's not warped, and the flywheel and pressure plate don't have excessive marking from heat (and nothing you can feel, running your hand over).

If you know anyone who has air tools, or does body work, have them hit the pressure plate and flywheel with a DA. If you can't find the hot spots with your eyes closed, it's good (for this, anyway).

I actually do body work and have a da, what grit would you go over it with? And what’s the difference between going over it with a da or getting it resurfaced? Im guessing its basically the same thing, giving the clutch a fresher surface to bite into?

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Brandon240sx

I actually do body work and have a da, what grit would you go over it with? And what’s the difference between going over it with a da or getting it resurfaced? Im guessing its basically the same thing, giving the clutch a fresher surface to bite into?

Honestly I have no idea what I use, like 40? Pretty rough.


When you get it resurfaced, it's turned or ground, similar to getting rotors turned, providing an entirely new, perfectly level surface. The DA is more like a hone, to hopefully give something better to bite to and break in against, without removing a whole lot of metal. If it's parts that were all used together, you don't need to, if there's no irregularity or damage.

That sort of thing is specified in some service manuals before re-assembly of undamaged parts, but if it's out because of chatter or something, it would be proper to have it resurfaced or replaced.

Judging from that disc, you don't have a lot to worry about.

[Brandon240sx]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Honestly I have no idea what I use, like 40? Pretty rough.


When you get it resurfaced, it's turned or ground, similar to getting rotors turned, providing an entirely new, perfectly level surface. The DA is more like a hone, to hopefully give something better to bite to and break in against, without removing a whole lot of metal. If it's parts that were all used together, you don't need to, if there's no irregularity or damage.

That sort of thing is specified in some service manuals before re-assembly of undamaged parts, but if it's out because of chatter or something, it would be proper to have it resurfaced or replaced.

Judging from that disc, you don't have a lot to worry about.

Basically just rough it up with 40 grit so the clutch grabs a little quicker?

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Brandon240sx

Basically just rough it up with 40 grit so the clutch grabs a little quicker?

The idea is more to provide a neutral new surface for the clutch to wear to, so that you dont have warped parts that cause chatter or rough engagement.

Like honing cylinder walls, to break in piston rings. You want to avoid changing the shape.

[kyral]

that looks like a low mile clutch