Haltech Tuning Help! - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

ItzGenX · 01-10-2005, 04:07 PM

Well, it has been a couple of days since I have been trying to figure this out. I can get my motor started, but it will only idle for about 3 seconds and die. I am unsure if its too lean for it or too rich for it. I have to use the zero throttle map to keep her idling for even the slightest. If I start it with my foot at 50%, it will start easier, hit 3k rpm, then die slowly. So here is the low down on it:

1995 240SX with bored SR22DET and E6X
Eagle Rods
CP 90MM Pistons
JWT 89MM Sleeves
ARP Main and Head Studs
Cometic HD Headgasket
Stainless Valves
Greddy Valve Springs
JWT Titanium Retainers
HKS 264 Step 2
Greddy Intake Manifold
MSD 72lb Injectors
JGY Top Feed Fuel Rail
Nismo FPR
AEM C2DI on Stock Coilpacks (all work)
Full Race Manifod
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Full Race T67/T3 (.63AR)
Greddy VSPL FMIC

I have all the settings in the HalwinX program at:
Main Setup
No. Cyl. 4
Load Sensing: MAP
Load Type: 3BarMAP
RPM Limit: 7800RPM
ECU Mode: Advanced
RPM Limit: Ignition
Dual MAP: Disabled
Gas Compensation: Always On

Fuel Setup
Decel Cut: Disabled
Injection: Sequential

Ignition Setup
Trigger Angle: 44
Tooth Offset: 18
Spark Mode: Distributor (must put on this to run waste
spark, including internal toggle)
Spark Output: Constant Charge
Spark Edge: Falling
Constant Period: 4.0ms
Internal Toggle: On

Trigger Setup
Trigger Angle: 44
Trigger Type: Nissan
Home Window: 16
Tooth Offset: 18
Trigger Input Pullup: On
Trigger Input: Hall Effect
Trigger Edge: Rising
Home Input: Hall Effect
Home Edge: Rising

Currently I am not using any maps except the Fuel Map 1, Ignition Map 1, and Zero Throttle Map. Ignition timing is setup from Scott Avoy's(Enthalpy) "Timing Guide", which is currently at 20 degrees in vacuum areas. Fuel map is basically guess and retry. Same goes for the Zero Throttle map with no luck. I think it is running rich and tried leaning it out, only to find it Idle creeping up higher as it hits the leaner spots. After it hits the leaner spots, it will then continue to rise (creep) in RPM off the zero throttle map then die. I've tried adjusting the throttle stop screw up and down (in one turn increments up and down and playing with the haltech for 15 mins at a time). I do not have my IACV wired up, and the hole for it is capped off for the time being (to prevent variables). After an hour of playing (finally gets to operating temp of 80C) I check the plugs to find them blackened and smelling like fuel somewhat. So every hour of playing, I pull and check the plugs, clean them, then put them back in and try dif settings again to have no luck. The plugs are gapped at .030 by the way. I have a feeling the 72lb injectors may be too big to let it idle. Then on the other hand, I can't even get it to stay on even with the throttle.

So if anyone has any experience with tuning a haltech or something that can relate to the subject, I would really appreciate it. All I need is for the car to idle and stay idling, so I can tune it for drivability. I do not want to put my LM-1 onto the car yet until it will idle regularly to prevent sensor fouling. Oh yeah, and the timing is zero'd and sychronized in.

01-10-2005, 04:07 PM	#1
ItzGenX Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Pass Christian, MS Age: 42 Posts: 48 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Haltech Tuning Help! Well, it has been a couple of days since I have been trying to figure this out. I can get my motor started, but it will only idle for about 3 seconds and die. I am unsure if its too lean for it or too rich for it. I have to use the zero throttle map to keep her idling for even the slightest. If I start it with my foot at 50%, it will start easier, hit 3k rpm, then die slowly. So here is the low down on it: 1995 240SX with bored SR22DET and E6X Eagle Rods CP 90MM Pistons JWT 89MM Sleeves ARP Main and Head Studs Cometic HD Headgasket Stainless Valves Greddy Valve Springs JWT Titanium Retainers HKS 264 Step 2 Greddy Intake Manifold MSD 72lb Injectors JGY Top Feed Fuel Rail Nismo FPR AEM C2DI on Stock Coilpacks (all work) Full Race Manifod Tial 44mm Wastegate Full Race T67/T3 (.63AR) Greddy VSPL FMIC I have all the settings in the HalwinX program at: Main Setup No. Cyl. 4 Load Sensing: MAP Load Type: 3BarMAP RPM Limit: 7800RPM ECU Mode: Advanced RPM Limit: Ignition Dual MAP: Disabled Gas Compensation: Always On Fuel Setup Decel Cut: Disabled Injection: Sequential Ignition Setup Trigger Angle: 44 Tooth Offset: 18 Spark Mode: Distributor (must put on this to run waste spark, including internal toggle) Spark Output: Constant Charge Spark Edge: Falling Constant Period: 4.0ms Internal Toggle: On Trigger Setup Trigger Angle: 44 Trigger Type: Nissan Home Window: 16 Tooth Offset: 18 Trigger Input Pullup: On Trigger Input: Hall Effect Trigger Edge: Rising Home Input: Hall Effect Home Edge: Rising Currently I am not using any maps except the Fuel Map 1, Ignition Map 1, and Zero Throttle Map. Ignition timing is setup from Scott Avoy's(Enthalpy) "Timing Guide", which is currently at 20 degrees in vacuum areas. Fuel map is basically guess and retry. Same goes for the Zero Throttle map with no luck. I think it is running rich and tried leaning it out, only to find it Idle creeping up higher as it hits the leaner spots. After it hits the leaner spots, it will then continue to rise (creep) in RPM off the zero throttle map then die. I've tried adjusting the throttle stop screw up and down (in one turn increments up and down and playing with the haltech for 15 mins at a time). I do not have my IACV wired up, and the hole for it is capped off for the time being (to prevent variables). After an hour of playing (finally gets to operating temp of 80C) I check the plugs to find them blackened and smelling like fuel somewhat. So every hour of playing, I pull and check the plugs, clean them, then put them back in and try dif settings again to have no luck. The plugs are gapped at .030 by the way. I have a feeling the 72lb injectors may be too big to let it idle. Then on the other hand, I can't even get it to stay on even with the throttle. So if anyone has any experience with tuning a haltech or something that can relate to the subject, I would really appreciate it. All I need is for the car to idle and stay idling, so I can tune it for drivability. I do not want to put my LM-1 onto the car yet until it will idle regularly to prevent sensor fouling. Oh yeah, and the timing is zero'd and sychronized in.