Rear alignment bolt cross reference?

[AKADriver]

The factory bolt still available that fits the S13 factory toe arms and RUCAs is 55226-35F10, but it's ~$30 per bolt.

I was curious if there's a generic bolt or another car's eccentric bolts that are cheaper/more readily available. From what I could measure looking at the bolts on my car (no idea if they're original) they seem to be M12, with an OAL of 80mm and the eccentric is about 32mm. I don't have the weird weighted bolts that some S13s came with.

My first thought was the Miata because you can get Miata replacement/upgraded eccentric bolts everywhere. Those seem to have the same bolt diameter and eccentric size but the OAL is much longer and the eccentric is more aggressive. Some Miata bolts are threaded way down the shank and might work?

350Z/G35 camber arm bolt part number 55226-AL50A or toe arm bolt 55226-JA01C also look extremely close if not identical other than how much of the shank is threaded. The matching washer cross refs to an S-chassis part number 55227-52F11 so at least the diameter is bang on. 55226-JA01C is cheap as chips at my local Nissan dealer, $6.57.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by AKADriver

The factory bolt still available that fits the S13 factory toe arms and RUCAs is 55226-35F10, but it's ~$30 per bolt.

I was curious if there's a generic bolt or another car's eccentric bolts that are cheaper/more readily available.

350Z/G35 camber arm bolt part number 55226-AL50A or toe arm bolt 55226-JA01C also look extremely close if not identical other than how much of the shank is threaded. The matching washer cross refs to an S-chassis part number 55227-52F11 so at least the diameter is bang on. 55226-JA01C is cheap as chips at my local Nissan dealer, $6.57.

There are enough dudes parting out s13 it shouldn't be hard to find more. I have a bin of stock nissan bolts from all the cars that have passed through my hands over the years.

[AKADriver]

Of course, I'd rather buy new though because these are kinda wear items. I haven't even tried to remove mine yet, I only plan on replacing them because they're crusty and I'm trying to de-crust my car.

I just bought the -JA01C bolts and if they don't work I'll just resell them. They were literally in my cart yesterday and then the price went up by a third right before I checked out. Nissan had a 25% off online only promo that was supposed to go until 3/31 but just summarily ended yesterday at 5pm. I'm just salty that the cost of my experiment (4 bolts, washers, nuts) went from $44 to $58 with no warning. But if they work consider it my $14 gift to all three people on Zilvia that still run stock or nismo rucas and toe arms.

[240Driver39]

Hey, I’ve been looking at this myself. Nissan has a ton of camber adjustment bolts that are more like $10 bux a piece that I was going to try. I was also thinking about the bolt you bought.

55226-50Y0A

This was one I was going to try.

[AKADriver]

That one looks close too! Looks like it's a B13/P10 application in the US. It looks like the only difference is the original bolt has more of a cone shaped nose on it and the 50Y0A has a flat nose. The one I bought seems to be slightly longer, just counting the threads, and uses a different coating, it has that matte grey stuff you see on newer cars instead of the greeny-gold of original S13/S14/B13 era stuff.

[240Driver39]

Originally Posted by AKADriver

That one looks close too! Looks like it's a B13/P10 application in the US. It looks like the only difference is the original bolt has more of a cone shaped nose on it and the 50Y0A has a flat nose. The one I bought seems to be slightly longer, just counting the threads, and uses a different coating, it has that matte grey stuff you see on newer cars instead of the greeny-gold of original S13/S14/B13 era stuff.

We have been doing the same activity lately. Counting bolt threads from a computer screen. I had ordered the 240sx bolts from amayama because they had them listed for ~$10 each out of UAE, but they ultimately canceled that part of the order.

[AKADriver]

Yup. I've had great luck ordering from my local Nissan dealer for stuff as long as it's still in US production. I actually ordered JDM chuki turn signals there too.

In fact they just e-mailed me to let me know that the bolt and washer were in stock but the matching lock nut 55269-AG00E for the 350Z was backordered. I bounced another similar part number for the exact same nut 55269-AG005 (I think Altima? Murano?) off the sales guy and that one was backordered too. So I just ordered 40262-JA000 from eBay which I think is for another year Altima, for whatever reason it doesn't x-ref to those two, but the bolt for that car x-refs to the one I ordered. I'm sure it's just a generic M12 lock nut.

[240Driver39]

Originally Posted by AKADriver

Yup. I've had great luck ordering from my local Nissan dealer for stuff as long as it's still in US production. I actually ordered JDM chuki turn signals there too.

In fact they just e-mailed me to let me know that the bolt and washer were in stock but the matching lock nut 55269-AG00E for the 350Z was backordered. I bounced another similar part number for the exact same nut 55269-AG005 (I think Altima? Murano?) off the sales guy and that one was backordered too. So I just ordered 40262-JA000 from eBay which I think is for another year Altima, for whatever reason it doesn't x-ref to those two, but the bolt for that car x-refs to the one I ordered. I'm sure it's just a generic M12 lock nut.

Yeah local dealer that does wholesale pricing is clutch. I was able to get the hatch fenders 2 years ago for 190 a side. Definitely a huge plus for all these small nuts and bolts as well.

Doing a ?resto? or just refreshing parts of the car?

[AKADriver]

It's kind of a 'driving resto'/refresh at this point - I don't have the space or budget for a frame off but this car isn't special enough to warrant it anyway. I bought it in late 2016 with 320,000 miles completely stock and running/driving but tired, and then it sat for about 4 years, kennn and I had vague plans to make a youtube series out of doing a full restoration but we were always too busy and that market is just saturated now. So it became my 'covid project' to just do a mostly mechanical refresh. Engine/trans done, front suspension/steering done (with a DIY/tape measure alignment), rear suspension is mostly as I found it still other than the matching coilovers and I believe things had been replaced at some point in the past because the suspension arms are cleaner than the rest of the chassis and the alignment bolts in there now are possibly not original but I do know the subframe has never been out.

I may drop the whole subframe because I have an S15 HLSD, new rear brake hardlines, and whiteline subframe bushings sitting on the bench right now, but this whole alignment bolt saga really started because my DIY front end alignment sucks and I want to be able to just take it to a pro and get it dialed in properly and drive it for a while. I get unmotivated when I can't drive the car.

Ultimately I don't want to use most non-bushing-equipped aftermarket arms for the same reason - I like driving it on the street - and from what I can tell I have plenty of camber range at my preferred ride height with the stock upper arms so I'm going to stick with them.

What's your goal/reason for using stock alignment hardware?

[240Driver39]

Long term project, picked up this one in 2019 and have been just trying to make tasteful improvements and make it a great street car that is fun. Car came with older ISR arms and for what I am doing I’d rather move to stock arms updated with nismo bushings. OEM / Nismo is best right?

It’s been basically a top to bottom project tho and I am way down the rabbbit hole at this stage lol.

[anti tyler]

personally, if you found the bolt. I would buy it. $30 is not much to pay if you're worried about the wear on a used one...

[AKADriver]

The point is to find a source that will still be available later though. I've spent more on OEM parts where nothing else will do, but these alternate part numbers are also OEM parts, more plentiful (at least they should be - Nissan has them on backorder now), possibly updated, and cheaper when you need four of them plus new nuts and washers is a big bonus.

FWIW Febest, who makes replacement bushings for Nissans too, also makes exact replacements for both the B13 and the Z33 bolts. I ordered their B13 bolt part number (0229-001) from an eBay seller while I wait for the OEM Z33 bolt to come off backorder (I got the nuts and washers from a Nissan dealer in WI when mine couldn't pull through). Their PN for the longer Z33 etc. bolt is 0229-003.

[AKADriver]

So I got the B13 etc..fitment bolt. It's M14! Not gonna work. The nut and washer I have are perfect.

Back to finding a source for the Z33 bolt which is M12, that I know for sure.

[240Driver39]

Originally Posted by AKADriver

So I got the B13 etc..fitment bolt. It's M14! Not gonna work. The nut and washer I have are perfect.

Back to finding a source for the Z33 bolt which is M12, that I know for sure.

Well then, thank you for checking that. I?ll see I?m about ready to order a pile of parts from my local dealer so I?ll see what I can come up with.

[AKADriver]

Alright! Great success. The Altima/Z/etc. bolt, 55226-JA01C, is perfect.



The bolts are absolutely identical except: the newer bolt is 10mm longer in the threaded part; and the anti-corrosion coating is that matte grey stuff you see on newer parts (hot dip?) and not the zinc+chromate plating of the original part.

The old bolt pictured is the nicest of the four from my car. It thankfully only took a little working back and forth with a breaker bar to break them loose, but at least two of them had the groove for the eccentric washer rusted/worn smooth, and the nuts and threads were in really bad shape in general on both of the toe bolts.

The -JA01C bolt should also work for cars that use 55226-0P000, which is the toe link bolt for the S14 (and I think S15, R33). The overall length of -JA01C looks to be the same as -0P000 but it has more threads and less shank. Should still work fine.

[AKADriver]

And in the car. One odd thing I hadn't noticed, the nut 42062-JA000 has an 18mm hex. I think that was my first time using that 18mm socket.



The added length makes it slightly awkward to thread into the toe link past the axle flange but it all works perfectly. Running down the lock nuts is a bit of a pain also because of the extra length.

[240Driver39]

Awesome! Thank you for being a few steps ahead of me on this lol. This will be the route I go.