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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Member
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![]() So I accidentally cut part of the wiring harness on my 95 240 that controls the following as it ran through near the center console:
1) Turn signals 2) Orange of front headlights, Rear lamps, Guage illumination 3) I believe the power antenna 4) Might have been to stock stereo 5) Maybe something else I'm missing... The previous harness was already jacked up, and I fixed the rear lamps and orange lamps by replacing the corresponding fuse in the fuse box. Prior to doing this I could connect a wire that was cut by the previous owner to a 12v source and they would light up, making me think that I had cut that wire, but I didn't and it ended up just being a fuse. Whats also odd is that as soon as I'd touch that wire the clock light would turn off, and when I removed it the clock light would go on. Same thing with my power antenna (Which never worked). Like power could only flow through to one circuit at a time leaving the other one (clock) powerless. Now for another oddity - The fuse that I replaced is also for the guage illumination which does not go on. Only the clcok does. It's (I don't believe) not possible for all of the other bulbs to have somehow burrned out from what happened, and the clock light I believe is not controlled by this fuse either. (All other fuses checked and good) My turn signals also do not work. My hazards work, I have removed my dash and most from the interior and taken out the center console, my hazard button isn't stuck or anything. I checked my flasher (the piece inside the yellow housing above the clutch) and it supplies 12 volts. My turn signal icons do not appear on the guage cluster when I signal(as all other icons do work). So I have my wiring harness fully exposed and I want to hear some suggestions. The wires for the blinkers do run right out from the steering column area correct? And does anyone know what colors these are for, for Left and Right. While I'm at it, does anyone know what color controls the power antenna? My car has never beeped when I open the door with my lights on, as warning... And just because I like things being the way they were made does anyone have any suggestions on where I can locate this control whether it being a sensor and wires or what. Thanks for reading my long ass post. |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2001
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the best thing i could tell you would be to go to the wiring diagram in this..
http://72.29.75.31/~videof6/manuals/...240SX_1995.zip if the link doesn't work PM me.
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#3 | |
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Quote:
The clock comes on with the key, not the dash lamps. Turn signal feeds from the switch are green/yellow and green/black. If the hazard switch works then it's possible the signal switch is bad, or just not plugged in, it's a 3pin plug on top of the stalk. Key warning buzzer is a yellow plastic deal, 2pin plug, located on the same bracket as the flasher. Give me some more concise details on where exactly the wiring is in question and I'll provide some more info for you.
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#4 |
Zilvia Member
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![]() This is a close up of the wires I cut. Green vinyl tape holding them for now, the blue wires i could not differentiate between, they are not connected. ![]() Two plugs. ![]() Wires I didn't cut, were always like that ![]() Is that yellow plastic box the key warning buzzer? And is the black box behind it the flasher? I had assumed that the yellow was the flasher. The yellow is 2 pin plug and the black is 3 pin. I'll look for the signal switch, what does it look like if you know. Thanks man |
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#5 |
Zilvia Member
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Update - One blue wire receives ACC power while one does not receive any power when testing with the multimeter.
I blew my "Audio" fuse out when I grounded the blue wire out. Although I have seperated the stock CD player plugs, as they are still intact. This really doesn't help me, just putting it out there as to what those blue wires do. Still need help |
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#6 |
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Alright, the two plugs above are the radio plugs. Since they're cut off so short you're going to have a hard time getting it back together. PM me your address and I'll send you a nice length of wire with new plugs. Looks like the dash illumination is out since they've been cut. Unplug the other side, the aftermarket side, until you get everything else fixed, leaving it plugged in is only going to cause more problems if they continue grounding out.
There should be another set of wires with the radio harness that's used for the slave audio (single CD, cassette deck, etc) that may be confusing you, it's the orange/green (constant power), blue (acc power), red/blue (illumination), and red/yellow (dimmer). Take those extra wires out of the harness completely as they're just tied in a little further back and you don't need them. The second blue wire you're not seeing power on could be a return from a dead plug and it's cut on the other end as well. Yellow box is the key buzzer, black relay with 3pins is the flasher. Find out where those two larger red wires go and remove them, that's not OE. Turn signals should work fine unless the flasher is cut or damaged. Turn signal switch is part of the healdight stalk. Finally, pull and check EVERY fuse in the car, under the dash and under the hood, to verify you don't have anything else damaged. You're doing good so far.
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#7 |
Zilvia Member
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![]() Unplug that to make work easier? Or the other one? ![]() I know that these are my OEM cd player wires, I realized that they were hooked on with several other orange/green constant memory wires. Is that OEM? It definitely does not look OEM. You can see it in the far right of the picture, a bunch of orange/green Checking to see if I can test my flasher, will edit in 5 mins. ~Ok, so I wasn't ecactly sure how I could check the voltage of my flasher since the plugs are housed as well as the unit itself in plastic. What I did do was unplug it and test for continuity OHMS Rx1k. With prongs touching yada yada its all the way up, and when touching two of the plug prongs of the flasher it read anywhere between 1/4 to 1/2 up. When touching the car's wired plug and the chassis I received a full continuity. I did that to check and see if maybe the wires were cut before they got to the plug theyre wired up to. Although knowing how a flasher works, is there solid continuity between the pieces inside? Since the resistor coils heat up allowing both ends to touch, and then untouch. You'd know it more than me anyways, just a thought. Is there any other way to check the flasher? |
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#8 | ||
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Unplug both of those, that's the OE radio harness. Large plug is power, illumination, front speakers, smaller plug is rear speakers. The side with bare wires is an aftermarket harness adapter. Leave it out for now. Quote:
That is OEM, direct plug in for any slave audio piece. If you're keeping the slave unit, leave those plugs, otherwise just cut them out to save you the confusion of having spare wiring. Quote:
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#9 |
Zilvia Member
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thanks again r240.
I'm curious as to how I can unplug those plugs and have no problems where as if I cut something that goes into them I get all f'ed up. Also, after hooking some more things up I noticed that my whole room lamps do not work. The lights on my climate control and such. My fuses are still good. PM sent with address. Also please clarify if you can on what "pulsed power out" means. thanks for the support. |
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#10 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Pulsed output- the flasher takes a constant supply and 'pulses' it out to the signals, whichever the third wire is wil show 12V at pulsed intervals, on and off, on and off, etc.
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#11 |
Zilvia Member
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The thing is, what I cut didn't look like it had a return feed. The two plugs connect and then the other plug returns but the only wire connecting them is a blue one.
As you can see in the pictures, the other side of the plug i cut has wires that dead end. I am not using anything from those harnesses for the cd player that i just installed. Odd how my parking lights work and my gauge/room lights don't. And finally -- the key buzzer is powered when I check with a multimeter but does not warn me... :-\ thanks |
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#13 |
Zilvia Member
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Update
just checked the thermal flasher: checked with acc, on, and when blinker switch activated. NO power from ground to either of the three wires. However, perfect continuity... Wow, I don't know what that could be other than possibly the switch is broken and I'm unsure about how to go about putting a new switch in. |
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#14 |
Nissanaholic!
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Switch unit is modular undo the screws that hold it in unplug wires screw in new unit plug back in.
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#15 |
Zilvia Member
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I hooked some things back up today to find that my hazards do work and my flasher works, but still not a volt of power to the flasher for blinkers.
I'm going to see if I can check the switch some how though I have never done such. |
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#16 |
Zilvia Member
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how can i check to see if there is something wrong with the switch? I have it taken off I would imagine it would require dissasembling? Also, the green/yellow and green/black are the blinker wires... Where do they run exactly other than the blinkers? I noticed they were connected with the hazard switch though the flasher runs different wires. Where do the wires change? So many questions in this thread and I'm the only one posting ha i might make a new topic..
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#17 |
Zilvia Member
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edit -- Somehow the blinkers work now.....
I don't know... But my guage cluster bulbs still don't work and so far what I can tell is the AC buttons don't light up except for the green light under each icon when pressed. |
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