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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 01-21-2006, 03:19 AM   #1
91ka
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s13 look what ive found..

took a look at the upper chain guide today and it was literally sitting on top of the chain........... :hammer: has it happen to anyone else before? after pulling this out, idling didnt fluctuate anymore.

also, i have the grey rtv sealant and was wondering is that good enough for a 240 heat range? because i went to a shop and they were using another product (RTV) which took almost up to double the heat range. (it wasnt the blue RTV) they called it "the special formula" lol. i asked but they wouldnt tell me what it was.
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Old 01-21-2006, 03:22 AM   #2
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That guide breaks on just about every KA. A search will yield the information that Nissan themselves instructs their technicians to discard the guide between the cam gears.

I don't know what heat range grey rtv is for, for a valve cover its probably ok. Do yourself a solid and go buy a tube of Nissan brand gasket sealant from the dealership. I think its like $20 but itll last a good while and it's awesome. i use it for other cars all over the place.
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:56 PM   #3
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same thing happened to me
just remove it
put a new gasket
done
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:42 AM   #4
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crazy! I'm actually going to remove mine tomorrow, I just hope it isn't already broken..
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:47 AM   #5
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are there cases when the side guides are broken too? my tensioner isnt working right now and so the chains hitting the side guide time to time. hope it doesnt break by the time i get to the tensioner...

also when does the tensioner tighten and loosen? harder u accelerate the more tighten it gets and viseversa?
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Old 01-22-2006, 03:07 AM   #6
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Anyone have a picture for reference?
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Old 01-22-2006, 03:44 AM   #7
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http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/460/picture6rk.jpg

same thing happened to me about 3 weeks ago here is the pic.
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:21 AM   #8
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Well, I finally removed the timing chain guides and freed up the tensioner. My guides were actually not all that bad, but it's oh so nice to not hear the diesel truck sound when my engine is idling.. Overall the hardest part for me was convincing the front cover to come off. I ended up buying a hammer and tapping it off "gently." heh.

The side chain guide looked to be in better shape than the upper one, so I think you have a little bit of time before that one goes, but don't sit on it man, get that thing outta there!
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Old 01-23-2006, 02:43 AM   #9
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Congrats on finding THE most common KADE problem EVER.
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:17 PM   #10
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s13

so no one knows the answer to my question?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 91ka
are there cases when the side guides are broken too? my tensioner isnt working right now and so the chains hitting the side guide time to time. hope it doesnt break by the time i get to the tensioner...

also when does the tensioner tighten and loosen? harder u accelerate the more tighten it gets and viseversa?
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:26 PM   #11
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yeah mine was same way
no biggie old news i took mine out 2+ yaers ago
people been doing it for so long not new news there buddy.

side shoudl come out too, jsut rmove the front covers and remove it. its easy.
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91ka
so no one knows the answer to my question?
If the tensioner wasn't 'working' you'd have chain slap and would already have jumped time. The upper guide (by the distributor) rarely breaks, only the top one.
The tensioner is oil pressurized, more pressure = more tension. Did you really have to ask that, or did you throw your brain away for a minute?
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:10 AM   #13
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suprisingly my chain guide was scratchless but I removed it to prevent any future rattling. for the gasket just use the RED RTV.

Takes less than 10 minutes.
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:29 AM   #14
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s13

Quote:
Originally Posted by R240NA
If the tensioner wasn't 'working' you'd have chain slap and would already have jumped time. The upper guide (by the distributor) rarely breaks, only the top one.
The tensioner is oil pressurized, more pressure = more tension. Did you really have to ask that, or did you throw your brain away for a minute?
would you mind explaining jump time?
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Old 01-24-2006, 05:56 AM   #15
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^^^Too much slack in chain = too much distance between chain and sprocket. Chain jump (skip) tooth on sprocket. Timing = screwed. Result = bad. Camshaft rotate later relative to crank. Engine = run poor.

Noob + good automotive book + reading = less simple questions. :-) Not to be rude, but that one is kind of self explanatory.

It's usually just the guide(s) for most people. I wasn't so lucky. Got in there to change the guides and ended up changing the entire timing setup, top and bottom, plus a pile of mush out of the oil pan. Me + dishonest seller = pwned.
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