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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Member
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Location: Colorado
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something to know before buying a jdm engine.
ok, here is why i recommend that you always see a front clip or motorset in person before buying (or at least be more careful than i was).
back in august, i had decided on getting an s14 sr clip to put in my s14 and so i checked around and after hearing tons of horror stories decided to go with a reputable company (and pay more) that happened to have one in stock at the time because when we talked to them on the phone they assured us they got first pick of the best clips shipped over here and that everything was in great condition and showed us how the leakdown was good (although the compression wasnt quite ideal) on the s14 sr they had in stock and so we pretty much told them we wanted it, we just wanted to see pictures first. well, they sent us some pics of some really random stuff, including three pics of what looked like the pedals, but we were had already been convinced that this was a great motor and so we went ahead and bought it. well, anyways, when we got it, we noticed it was extremely dirty, which was to be expected, but this thing was more than dirty, it had dirt and grime caked on to the block and was definitely not what a 60k mi. motor should look like (if it had been sitting in a junkyard for less than a month or so like they said). we immediately noticed the bent and taped up charge pipe for the smic, the hole where an fmic went through, and the smic was not in the best of shape (although it was tested to hold water). also, there was a custom bracket left over where an afpr most likely was, and it was very noticeable that a lot of things had been removed and replaced often as there were different color bolts (some definitely not stock) on everything and the turbo was definitely not on the car before (even though it was the right turbo). we come to find out that a lot of bolts and such that should be tight were loose (engine mounts, turbo, etc.) and we had a bent turbo oil drain, a wastegate actuator that had to be bent because it was welded onto the wrong place, and it had s13 intake piping (which later required a custom power steering line, custom bov recirculation and a custom routed vent hose), and gave us some trouble after startup while we figured out the intake manifold bolts were loose and one was missing. also, we spent a ton of time cleaning the motor and cleaning/replacing bolts and boltholes etc, and lots of time/money replacing parts and such that you would expect to still be good on a 60k or even 100k mi. motor, but were definitely junk and old on this one. the oil pan was also smashed in as well as the pickup tube, but it was a good thing to replace that and enlarge the pickup anyways. our cams were also extremely worn and almost in need of replacing, most likely from hard use and the fact that the oil squirters for them were a little clogged (we unclogged them). also, the vacuum lines had been spliced into many times in many places and put back together, so there was most likely a boost gauge and controller put on the engine at one time (of course, i mean we already pretty much know it had a different mani, turbo, and ic before it went to the junkyard). and also the fan shroud had been severely damaged and unusable(probably in shipping though). basically, the only good thing we got out of the clip was a like new exedy stage 1 clutch as everything else worth anything was of course stripped off or in too bad of condition to be used. well, anyways, thats all i can think of at the moment that was wrong with our clip (and one of the reasons why the swap took so long and was not what i would call a "bolt in" affair even though it did bolt in of course). just make sure you either look at all this stuff first before buying a motor or at least get really good pictures of all of this and dont just trust a company because they have a flawless rep on forums and good luck.
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#2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: California, Norcal biiaatch
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Um, yeah. Another I got a shitty sr20det thread. Don't you know there are no more good motorsets/clips? Never buy what you dont see. That sucks that you spent your hard money on crap though.
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#8 | |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: May 2002
Location: Orange County, California
Age: 46
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Quote:
runs like a goddamn champion. never any problems 100% tip top shape http://www.g-dimension.com/ |
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#9 |
Zilvia Junkie
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i just bought a rb25det im glad i pulled the head off before i used it had some bent valves and a blown head gasket i always plan a rebuild on any jdm engine since there used
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#11 |
Post Whore!
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Always remove the valve cover at the very least, to see if you're getting some oreo cookie dough along with that motor.
You should ALWAYS be thorough when buying a motor... don't take their word for it, een if it is a reputable shop... you get it home, and if the motor's bad, its bad, and you just wasted a trip. |
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#12 |
Leaky Injector
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I got mine from Rickey's auto on ebay. Paid $2300 shipped for a 94 - 96 180sx blacktop (I know this because of the ECU). The motor was beautiful when I received it, I felt bad tearing it down. It was missing the CAS since he removed it so it wouldn't be damaged and forgot to include it, he promptly sent it to me next day and everything has been great since. And BTW there are still good motorsets left, maybe very few redtops which is why I opted to pay a little extra for a blacktop. Obviously cheapest is not always best.
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'92 G20 '96 240sx |
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#13 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
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'92 G20 '96 240sx |
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#14 |
Zilvia Addict
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I have had good and bad with phase to my motor was sent with no ignitor chip and no spark plug cover. The radiatior was on its last legs, so brittle it was falling apart. They did send out a spark plug cover the next day, but by the time I noticted the ignitor chip was missing they best they could do was offer to sell me one for $150. The motor runs strong and I did get a free jdm gauge cluster.
Although they sold the engine I orignialy picked out and instead of letting me choose another one they just sent me a diff one of their choosing.
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"If you rock knock-off, you are part of the problem" -myself |
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#15 |
aWingThing.com
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It's easy for you Cali guys to say, "go look at the clip first". But for people like myself that live in the Midwest there just isn't an ubundance of shops with SR's laying around to go check out first.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I fear this like no tomorrow when i go to do one.
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#17 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I cant support that enough too. Know what your buying. Even from reputable dealers, its hard to know for sure what your getting. Whenever possible, inspect the motor yourself, peform a compression and leakdown test, take the valve cover off, etc. I recieved my motor from JHOT exports in Georgia, and I couldn't be any more pleased. The motor was spotless, complete, and more importantly, mechanically sound.
If your going to make an investment like an SR20DET, always do your research.. unless your stinking rich, in which case you should be driving a nicer car haha
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![]() Current Project: Operation: N/A SR: 93 Silvia Q SR20DE Engine with go fast goodies. ![]() "Common problems 240sx's suffer from are curbs, trees, ditches, and other immovable objects."thx247 "on the tounge... there is no guardrails."- citizen |
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#18 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Well what sucks now is SR20s are starting to be in short supply. When we first did our swaps...we used to buy nothing but automatic engine sets with 5
speed trannies. Figured that auto...less likelier to have been ragged on in japan plus the lower ECU shift point. Now is damn near impossible to find one. Lately its been harder and harder to find redtops, mostly blacktops now. But like said before...do the basics if you can. Compression atleast 150-160, check the turbo for shaftplay, pop valve cover and see the status of the head *specially the cams...they'll tell alot as far as how much abuse the engine has been put thru* |
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