KA 3" exhaust before/after dyno

[BigVinnie]

ECU tune at this point should show some major gains.

[anyotherone]

I finished tailoring my basemap and the car pulls much smoother now. I eliminated the 4k dip and trimmed up the timing... the curve is definately smooth, but the peak numbers aren't much different. Tomorrow or Monday I'm going to finish up the tune and I'll post my results. After that I'm going to install the S13 240/248 combo and see what it looks like.

From there I might build an intake pipe with an open filter to see if any intake restriction is holding me back. Since I'm tuning the AEM with the MAP sensor I can completely delete the MAF.

I'm curious about intake manifolds and wilder cams, but I'm trying to map out the average 240sx owners options for cheap power in order to help out the community.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by anyotherone

I finished tailoring my basemap and the car pulls much smoother now. I eliminated the 4k dip and trimmed up the timing... the curve is definately smooth, but the peak numbers aren't much different.

I'm curious to know what octane you are using? Why haven't you disabled closed loop (or just knock sensor). You will show larger gains disabling closed loop so that the knock sensor doesn't retard timing on WOT.

[boosteds13]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

I'm curious to know what octane you are using? Why haven't you disabled closed loop (or just knock sensor). You will show larger gains disabling closed loop so that the knock sensor doesn't retard timing on WOT.

Umm.... wtf? "disable" the knock sensor? If the knock sensor is not there, the ecu goes into limp mode. If you use a resistor or whatever to "simulate" a knock sensor, then a bad tank of gas = no more motor. If the car is properly tuned, then the knock sensor shouldn't be an issue. Lastly, there is a knock sensor on there for a reason- you should probably use it...

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by boosteds13

Umm.... wtf? "disable" the knock sensor? If the knock sensor is not there, the ecu goes into limp mode. If you use a resistor or whatever to "simulate" a knock sensor, then a bad tank of gas = no more motor. If the car is properly tuned, then the knock sensor shouldn't be an issue. Lastly, there is a knock sensor on there for a reason- you should probably use it...

This is stated from the ECCS forums....
For those that don't know the Juan Willie tune..
http://www.hybridka.com/eccs/viewtopic.php?t=214
You don't need knock sensors for NA applications, only boosted. Adding knock signal to an NA engine only retards timing when trying to climb at higher RPMs and advancing ignition timing during WOT.
Ignition timing and fuel dumping can always be tuned or modified, it gives NA engines alot more room to play with power.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

This is stated from the ECCS forums....
For those that don't know the Juan Willie tune..
http://www.hybridka.com/eccs/viewtopic.php?t=214
You don't need knock sensors for NA applications, only boosted. Adding knock signal to an NA engine only retards timing when trying to climb at higher RPMs and advancing ignition timing during WOT.

I don't see how that thread explained your point.

You should have a lower chance for detonation on NA. But, that doesn't mean you don't need a knock sensor. I don't see any reason that you would want to remove something that is supposed to protect your engine. If you are experiencing retard from the knock sensor. You ether need to Adjust your tune or replace your knock sensor.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I don't see how that thread explained your point.

Well it was to help explain why closed loop is disabled or can be disabled. It isn't fully disabled either as it is still used till about 1600RPM for that specific tune.