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Old 04-17-2006, 08:27 PM   #1
powersteeringless180sx
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Oil additives question

Is it okay to put Lucas oil stabalizer in SR's or is it a bad idea? And what kind of oil is everyone using w/ a sr20? i'm using mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:36 PM   #2
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I have no experience with the Lucas, but I use RedLine 10W-30 for general street use.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:56 PM   #3
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:26 PM   #4
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I use CD2...comes in a yellow bottle. Helps seal oil rings better and lessens SRs notorious blowby.
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:52 PM   #5
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im running castrol syntec 10-w40 with the lucas oil stabilizer. every oil change i put lucas in. it made my lifter tap go away. expensive but imo its worth the money.
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powersteeringless180sx
Is it okay to put Lucas oil stabalizer in SR's or is it a bad idea? And what kind of oil is everyone using w/ a sr20? i'm using Mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50.
Mobil 1 already has oil stabilizers in it. No need to add anything else.

Also, bobistheoilguy has shown LOS to interfere with the stock stabilizers to make the oil perform worse even foam up. I'll search for the thread.
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:57 PM   #7
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^^ it foamed up pretty bad too
here is the link http://bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
and that wasnt even a real engine/tranny!
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx
I use CD2...comes in a yellow bottle. Helps seal oil rings better and lessens SRs notorious blowby.
Which CD2? CD-2 Street Legal High Performance Oil Boost or CD-2 Oil Stabilizer?

Try getting a new PCV valve? Make sure the PCV system is upto spec?
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:21 PM   #9
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With the oil stabalizer I noticed I kinda gave me some problems. But its only good to put some on when you do a oil change.
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powersteeringless180sx
Is it okay to put Lucas oil stabalizer in SR's or is it a bad idea? And what kind of oil is everyone using w/ a sr20? i'm using mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50.

Well I don't think it really matters what type of engine, if it really matters that it is SR.
So my analysis: alot of KA-T guys are using Mobil1, castrol syntec, Royal Purple, and Redline. These synthetics are already pretty stable, since it is much more REFINED and Recycled, compared to conventional oils. But there is to say that some conventional oils can be just as good also such as Castrol GTX. Now if KAdet guy's use these oils, the SR should defenitely be good for it as well. Especially since the KA has thinner oil rings, and compression rings than the sr's...
Interesting article to follow on synthetic oils, especially Mobil1.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
Honestly if you want oil to stabilize to it's maximum potential you should focus more on the engine cooling system, use products like water wetter, and less anti freeze. Dropping engine tempratures increases oil life and performance. Or add a windage tray and scraper, even larger oil cooling systems. oil as is, is already as good as it gets.
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Old 04-18-2006, 10:14 PM   #11
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generally don't you apply lucas oil stabilizer to non-syn oil. BTW 15w-50 is fine for your SR. leave it the way it is. Dood it's mobil 1, it needs nothing else, except maybe a switch to royal purple.
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Old 04-18-2006, 10:40 PM   #12
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I'm going to defer to the FSM and say stick with 5W-30, or 10W-30 if it doesn't get below 0F. Synthetic or conventional doesn't matter. Brand doesn't matter. Oil additives are not necessary, and use at your own risk. Just make sure you use the right viscosity and change it often.

If you have a modified engine, consult your engine builder for viscosity and brand recommendation.
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Old 04-18-2006, 11:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigVinnie
Well I don't think it really matters what type of engine, if it really matters that it is SR.
So my analysis: alot of KA-T guys are using Mobil1, castrol syntec, Royal Purple, and Redline. These synthetics are already pretty stable, since it is much more REFINED and Recycled, compared to conventional oils. But there is to say that some conventional oils can be just as good also such as Castrol GTX. Now if KAdet guy's use these oils, the SR should defenitely be good for it as well. Especially since the KA has thinner oil rings, and compression rings than the sr's...
Interesting article to follow on synthetic oils, especially Mobil1.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
Honestly if you want oil to stabilize to it's maximum potential you should focus more on the engine cooling system, use products like water wetter, and less anti freeze. Dropping engine tempratures increases oil life and performance. Or add a windage tray and scraper, even larger oil cooling systems. oil as is, is already as good as it gets.
My KA doesn't have thinner rings anymore...

How would running less anti-freeze help?
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Old 04-18-2006, 11:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB
My KA doesn't have thinner rings anymore...

How would running less anti-freeze help?

More water. More water wetter. Anti freeze doesn't disapate heat as well as water, or even water wetter.
Watch the water wetter demo.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
Or even better the thermal properties from redlines tech info.
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigVinnie
More water. More water wetter. Anti freeze doesn't disapate heat as well as water, or even water wetter.
Watch the water wetter demo.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
Or even better the thermal properties from redlines tech info.
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf
lowers your boiling point though.
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Old 04-19-2006, 02:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB
lowers your boiling point though.
BOILING POINT ELEVATION
Red Line Water Wetter does not significantly increase the boiling point of water; however, increasing pressure will raise the boiling point. The boiling point of water treated with Red Line using a 15 psi cap is 250°F compared to 265°F at 15 psi for 50% glycol. Increasing the pressure by 50% to 23 psi will increase the boiling point of water to 265°F. Because of the doubling of the ability of the radiator to transfer heat, boilover using Red Line treated water is not a problem as long as the engine is circulating coolant through the head and the fan is circulating air. Sudden shutdown after very hard driving may cause boilover.
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Old 04-19-2006, 04:43 PM   #17
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Even shutdown does not matter as long as you use electric fans with a thermal static switch.
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Old 04-19-2006, 05:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigVinnie
Even shutdown does not matter as long as you use electric fans with a thermal static switch.
Quote:
not a problem as long as the engine is circulating coolant through the head
Copy and paste straight from RedLine.
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Old 04-19-2006, 06:33 PM   #19
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Well it's not winter any more. I'm not using any antifreeze. Just stock radiotor cap, 2 bottles of watter wetter, and water. Defenitely a signicant drop in engine temprature even when I have a load on WOT. IMO wise investment, and I only change my oil when needed with no additives.
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Old 04-19-2006, 06:56 PM   #20
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ok throwing out this question... can u add in water wetter with 50/50 antifreeze???
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Old 04-19-2006, 07:05 PM   #21
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i believe so. i think the point of water wetter is to help the water itself stay cooler, but i could be completely wrong.
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Old 04-19-2006, 07:14 PM   #22
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Yeah you can, but the water wetter is limited to it's cooling properties when using antifreeze. I first used it last year with antifreeze and water 50/50 and the temprature barely drops when in higher RPM. I did infact notice the temp gauge drop, when I was just cruising at or below 3000RPM.
You could use less antifreeze to water ratio 25/75 and use the water wetter and probably get better results than the 50/50. You could probably just do that since the water wetter has inhibitors that prevent rust and corrosion as well.
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Old 04-19-2006, 07:20 PM   #23
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sweet thanks for the quick response guys
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