The everything cd009 swap thread.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by yousmellfunnytoo

. Also, custom driveshaft for it would be similar, as they only needed the length from flange to flange

shaftmasters /thread
http://shaftmasters.com/nissan-240sx-drivesha240.html

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by yousmellfunnytoo

The collins adapter worked really well, poor documentation came with it, and there are only about 8 bolts that bolt the trans to the adapter.

Only 8 bolts? That seems pretty good actually.

Originally Posted by dwnshft2drft

I'm confused. Too many engines types and vast variety of conversions for one tranny. Is there any thread that covers only SR motor? Sometimes you read it interesting and find out that is not for what you want to do.

To be fair, he says his setup right at the beginning of his post.

In other news the T56 slaves are a no go. The bolt holes line up but the input shaft hole is ever so slightly off center. I could redrill one of the mount holes to get it center but I don't trust myself to be that precise.

[LuckyX2]

Internal throwout bearing gap:

I'm assuming I measure this with the slave fully compressed? The spring keeps in at full extension. Also, does this mean the bearing is always in contact with the release fingers? That doesn't sound good for wear.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

Internal throwout bearing gap:

I'm assuming I measure this with the slave fully compressed? The spring keeps in at full extension. Also, does this mean the bearing is always in contact with the release fingers? That doesn't sound good for wear.

The throwout bearing is not supposed to ride on the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is engaged. There should be a small gap between them.


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[brndck]

Originally Posted by Itsalexwoo

How do you find the gap

he JUST told you

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

The throwout bearing is not supposed to ride on the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is engaged. There should be a small gap between them.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

The throwout bearing is not supposed to ride on the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is engaged. There should be a small gap between them.


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I don't see how this is possible with the internal slave throwout bearings though, that's my problem.
They're spring loaded so they're fully extended at rest. How in the world am I supposed to get that to not touch the clutch fingers?

Exhibit A: Spring loaded, always extended internal slave cylinder


Edit: I have to measure with it fully compressed. I'm guessing the hydraulic fluid holds it back when the clutch pedal isn't pressed?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html

Also, how the hell do I get the bellhousing off to ship out for machining? I removed the bolts connecting the back portion to the front (the ones that go through the "sandwich piece" that's a few inches thick) and broke most of the liquid gasket seal but I still can't get it to budge.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

Also, how the hell do I get the bellhousing off to ship out for machining? I removed the bolts connecting the back portion to the front (the ones that go through the "sandwich piece" that's a few inches thick) and broke most of the liquid gasket seal but I still can't get it to budge.

You need to remove the front cover, and the snap rings underneath the front cover. Also there's one bolt underneath the black inspection plate on top of the trans that people forget to remove that holds the bellhousing on.






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[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

You need to remove the front cover, and the snap rings underneath the front cover. Also there's one bolt underneath the black inspection plate on top of the trans that people forget to remove that holds the bellhousing on.

Thanks, that's what I was missing.

Also just want to say that I wish I had known more about the HR trans when I got into this. Was planning on a CD009 but then a low mileage JK40C came up cheap and I went for it. Then I read about the slave cylinders being garbage so I wound up buying a $430 ZSpeed slave ($325 + line + twin plate adapter + shipping). $350 for the adapter, $430 for the slave, $400 for the driveshaft, $175 for the shifter, $100 for machining, $100 for the crossmember and I'm at the price of the Mazworx kit. That slave I didn't plan on buying really ruined the budget.

So tl;dr if you have an HR trans, just get the Mazworx kit. DE trans you can save $400-500 going with an adapter plate if you wish.

[Itsalexwoo]

How do you find the gap

[Itsalexwoo]

Really? That says how to find the gap?....I'm pretty sure that's describing the end result. I'm asking for the steps leading up to...

[TheRealSy90]

Need to take measurements of everything.


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[TheRealSy90]

Maybe it's okay for an internal slave to ride on the pressure plate, I'm not sure. As far as external slave and fork goes, when it returns with clutch engaged there's supposed to be a slight gap.


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[nauss18]

I'm currently gathering everything I need to install my CD009 into my S15 with an Rb25det swap.

Currently I have;
-Transmission CD009
-Collins adapter plate
-Shortener pivot ball
-Collins recommended 200sx release bearing sleeve

Things I need;

-Clutch/clutch fork
-Driveshaft
-Shifter adapter?


So as for the clutch any RB push style clutch will work?(Multi or Single disc set ups) Also the shifter adapter... Will I need one or will the shifter line up close enough that I could, If needed just cut some of the tunnel? Also which clutch forks will work with this application?

[TheRealSy90]

Unless you want the shifter to be behind your seat, you will need an aftermarket shifter relocation.


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[brndck]

for everyone
this is the fsm for z33 trans (cdxxx, not sure about z34)

it also has a diagram showing the only way I've found to tell cd008 apart from cd009

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AUT...pe/2005/mt.pdf

you're welcome

[travon47]

Originally Posted by brndck

for everyone
this is the fsm for z33 trans (cdxxx, not sure about z34)

it also has a diagram showing the only way I've found to tell cd008 apart from cd009

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AUT...pe/2005/mt.pdf

you're welcome

I've looked at this a few times before but don't see what diagram your talking about that shows you the difference? Unless your talking about looking at the synchros which are obviously different, since that's what the changes mostly are.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by travon47

I've looked at this a few times before but don't see what diagram your talking about that shows you the difference? Unless your talking about looking at the synchros which are obviously different, since that's what the changes mostly are.

page 21 there is a blow apart diagram, CD008 has a 2pc bearing retainer thing (items 22 & 23) where CD009 its one piece (item 22).



when you remove the rear extension (item 27) you can see this, and other than pulling the whole gear set out to inspect the synchros, this is the fastest method I've found of determining if you have cd009 or not

[travon47]

Originally Posted by brndck

page 21 there is a blow apart diagram, CD008 has a 2pc bearing retainer thing (items 22 & 23) where CD009 its one piece (item 22).



when you remove the rear extension (item 27) you can see this, and other than pulling the whole gear set out to inspect the synchros, this is the fastest method I've found of determining if you have cd009 or not

Oh word, yeah not planning on opening either of mine up anytime soon since they are both installed lol. Good to know if you have to take the case off though

[dwnshft2drft]

Looks like everyone is expert.
I'm planning to go with the z34 tranny but I don't want to deal with the hydraulic throw out bearing. Is there an adapter to use with mazworx bell housing with all the SR flywheel, clutch kits and slave cylinder?

[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by dwnshft2drft

Looks like everyone is expert.
I'm planning to go with the z34 tranny but I don't want to deal with the hydraulic throw out bearing. Is there an adapter to use with mazworx bell housing with all the SR flywheel, clutch kits and slave cylinder?

Well our kit is exactly that... Our kit uses all SR20 clutch components.

[dwnshft2drft]

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

Well our kit is exactly that... Our kit uses all SR20 clutch components.

Do you have a link where I can check them out. Thanks!

[brndck]

Originally Posted by travon47

Oh word, yeah not planning on opening either of mine up anytime soon since they are both installed lol. Good to know if you have to take the case off though

well ya kinda hafta pull it off to remove the bellhousing in order to have it machined, so......

Originally Posted by dwnshft2drft

Do you have a link where I can check them out. Thanks!

lmgtfy.com

[travon47]

Originally Posted by brndck

well ya kinda hafta pull it off to remove the bellhousing in order to have it machined, so......

uhhhh, when did I say I need anything machined? I bought a kit that doesn't need to be machined/cut or anything, and had it running and driving last year. also the one in my g35 definitely doesn't need to be machined

[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by dwnshft2drft

Do you have a link where I can check them out. Thanks!

We only have 2 kits in stock so order soon they'll be backorded for about 3-5 months.

https://www.mazworx.com/mazworx-sr-v...s-chassis.aspx

[MattTenFour]

Is anyone else having issues with their transmission popping out of fifth gear? Mine only does it after I accelerate in fifth and let off the gas. As soon as the engine is no longer under load it goes into neutral unless I hold the shifter in fifth. SR, CD009, GKTech shifter, Collins adapter, GKTech trans mount. My Collins throw out bearing was shot from the minute I installed it, I don't know if that could cause this but I'm planning on replacing it this weekend.

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by MattTenFour

Is anyone else having issues with their transmission popping out of fifth gear? Mine only does it after I accelerate in fifth and let off the gas. As soon as the engine is no longer under load it goes into neutral unless I hold the shifter in fifth. SR, CD009, GKTech shifter, Collins adapter, GKTech trans mount. My Collins throw out bearing was shot from the minute I installed it, I don't know if that could cause this but I'm planning on replacing it this weekend.

You should verify that your GKTech shifter is allowing it to fully engage in 5th gear.

[travon47]

Originally Posted by Nissansota240

You should verify that your GKTech shifter is allowing it to fully engage in 5th gear.

You sold yours pretty quick didn't you? Do they run an oem shifter guide plate? Not sure if not running one effects anything or not.

Originally Posted by brndck

that's mantastic, but since this is the cd009 SWAP thread, the general assumption is that we're SWAPPING cd00x trans into things, your g35 obv doesn't count. now fuck off with your attitude while I'm trying to help.

Just saying not everyone is taking the casing off or cutting it. I think an ls1 with a cd009 is considered a swap? Just not a good one obviously. I just wanted to see if there was a way to tell if my g35 had a cd009 that I didn't know about yet with out pulling it apart, since no one has a straight answer if 05 g35s have them or not. Sorry I didn't know what diagram shows the difference between the two in the 64 pages. lol Settle down bud

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by travon47

You sold yours pretty quick didn't you? Do they run an oem shifter guide plate? Not sure if not running one effects anything or not.

I used mine for one season, only because the s999 ones where not out in time and the cbf one wasnt to easy to get. The GK sat way to far back for my liking, especially since I installed my jz as close to the fire wall as I could.

But when I installed the GK shifter first, I had the bracket not quite right, and this made 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear not fully engage, allowing them to pop out easily, I re adjusted the bracket and they then it worked, I only used the shifter for 3 events last year.

[travon47]

Originally Posted by Nissansota240

I used mine for one season, only because the s999 ones where not out in time and the cbf one wasnt to easy to get. The GK sat way to far back for my liking, especially since I installed my jz as close to the fire wall as I could.

But when I installed the GK shifter first, I had the bracket not quite right, and this made 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear not fully engage, allowing them to pop out easily, I re adjusted the bracket and they then it worked, I only used the shifter for 3 events last year.

That sucks, did it have to do with the 350z and g35 shifter mounting points being different? Also don't you have to cut the shifter shaft down for the gktech shifter as well? Luckily I got a serialnine one when they came out, although the newer redesign would be nice since side to side movement is nonexistent in their v1.

[MattTenFour]

Originally Posted by Nissansota240

You should verify that your GKTech shifter is allowing it to fully engage in 5th gear.

Good point. That's going to be the first thing I check. I had an operator error when I installed it initially which wouldn't allow me to shift into 1st, 3rd or 5th. Hopefully it'll be something simple and not a bent shift fork.