GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[RalliartRsX]

Heat wrap on any exhaust component is a pretty good idea for heat management.

Also, for items for which you want to keep the heat out of, heat reflective tape is a very good additional measure.

I recently had to do both measures to protect my wideband and BMC. After a proper trackday, all items held up fine and engine bay temps have dropped by a good amount. In addition, I has having heat soak issues on my wideband, and the heat reflective tape with wrapping the downpipe which it ran about 10-12 inches from, allowed the wideband to not run super hot, drive resistance values to infinity and stop working.

Almost all turbo cars I have have a combination of Ceramic coating, heat/fiberglass wrap and heat reflective tape

[S13alldayyo]

Yup my ac line has reflective tape on it, Ima going to wrap everything else and put a blanket on the turbo


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[RalliartRsX]

Blanket on my T3 turbo dropped the temp 3 inches away from 500+ F, to barely above 95 F. This dropped underhood temps by several hundred degrees and kep the radiator cool as well (T3 turbo SE-R).

Now, how good goodspeed heat management properties are, that's another question. And for something which requires quiet a bit of research and cost to get the material grade and makeup correct, I would be a little skeptical of a knock off.......but if it works, it works, I guess

I use either Thermotec or DEI materials when it calls for it.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by S13alldayyo

I already wrapped the hose in that type of material, I just want to do it right the first time I can get a godspeed blanket for 40$ shipped and supposedly there blankets are awesome for the price plus I heat wrap the manifold and elbow

I also have to heat wrap the dump tube

When the Isis blanket is $100 and the DEI is $180. A $40 blanket seems questionable.

[S13alldayyo]

Isis actually has ?


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[S14DB]

Originally Posted by S13alldayyo

Isis actually has ?


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http://www.enjukuracing.com/categori...ries-fittings/

[S13alldayyo]

If anyone has a s13/s14 stock manifold with a 38mm vband for tial I will buy it yesterday


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[S13alldayyo]

Quick question for you guys with gt2871r on your s13 motors what brand turbo lines and restricors are you using


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[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by S13alldayyo

Quick question for you guys with gt2871r on your s13 motors what brand turbo lines and restricors are you using


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DIF with forged fittings, and heat wrap.

You can get them from Frsport.com

[e1_griego]

Yeah, DIF lines with .03" restrictor for me.

[S14DB]

Ball bearing: .032in / .8mm
Journal bearing: .062in / 1.6mm

To bad Harp isn't making kits anymore...

[S13alldayyo]

What about isis with the dif restrictor, but on fr sport the dif restrictor is .4


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[tommey]

GT2871r 56 Trim and .86 exhaust housing.
E85 of course.

[bshotts]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Ball bearing: .032in / .8mm
Journal bearing: .062in / 1.6mm

To bad Harp isn't making kits anymore...

Thanks for summarizing the differences so precisely. Can be difficult to find that info at times.

What's always concerned me is just the shear magnitude of how small an orifice that is for a very critical engine part. At an average engine oil pressure of say 30-50 psi at that tiny orifice area, that's just not alot of oil flow. I can't imagine it taking much more than a tiny piece of debris to clog that orifice and cutting off oil flow to turbo.

Has anyone else had a similar concern?

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by tommey

GT2871r 56 Trim and .86 exhaust housing.
E85 of course.

LOTS of boost and LOTs of timing, huh??

Good damn numbers! That turbo must be all sorts of Happy being so far out of it's efficiency range

[tommey]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

LOTS of boost and LOTs of timing, huh??

Good damn numbers! That turbo must be all sorts of Happy being so far out of it's efficiency range

1.95 Bar of boost
As long as it`s making more power when boost is added, i`ll add boost!

Really nice powerband also.

Stock head, stock TB, stock headbolts, forged bottom with about 9.5-10:1 compression and reinforced block.

[cbh148]

Got a dyno day scheduled for this Sunday with Martin from Enthalpy. It'll be at Built To Win Performance.

My s13 is a street car that gets daily driven a lot (although I have a vert and an EM1 civic for backup) yet it sees it's fair share of street drifting and events (when they're ever nearby). It still has full interior, power steering, heat, automatic seat belts, sound deadening, etc.

I just purchased a set of 740cc injectors and JWT s3 cams. Will be throwing all this and a z32 MAF in before going on the dyno since I'm currently on stock tune/MAF/injectors/cams. I've only been running the 2871r at about 8 lbs for the past 4 months (due to stock tune/injectors/MAF), but I'm thinking Martin will shoot to put me at about 16 to 18 pounds since I'm on stock pistons. Not sure what the limit here is.

My setup:

• Rebuilt redtop SR20DET (about 6000 miles on rebuild)
• stock pistons/rods/cams/intakemanifold/FPR/flywheel/clutch
• ARP head studs
• ACL bearings
• Cometic MLS head gasket (unknown thickness at the moment)
• Circuit Sports rocker arm stoppers
• JWT s3 cams
• Garrett GT2871R turbo, 52 trim, .64 hot side, t28 style compressor housing
• Built-To-Win tubular top mount turbo manifold
• Tial MVR 38mm external wastegate to screamer dump
• full 3" exhaust with no catalytic converter, muffler, or resonator (for now)
• Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
• Hallman manual boost controller
• Deatschwerks 740cc sidefeed injectors (01J-00-0740-6, originally for an RB25. I don't see where Deatschwerks sells this specific injector for an SR/KA but I assume they'll work fine. Just bought them from a guy who claims they're about a year old, who said they came in his RB25 swap. Included the Deatschwerks box with that part number and everything.)
• WiringSpecialties engine harness
• Kinugawa turbo lines
• OEM z32 MAF
• z32 fuel filter
• EMUSA front mount intercooler
• Consult USB cable for the ECUtalk/Scantech software on my laptop

I am running a stock 62 ECU right now but the other ECU i have that Martin has modified already is an E5. I currently have a skinny o2 sensor since I have a 62 ECU. Can he change the tune on the E5 ECU to work with this skinny o2? I'm hoping so.

Also, as far as the tune goes, I would like the knock sensor disabled and a quicker sounding revlimiter. Less like gunshot Bee-R style, and more faster and smoother like PowerFC style (if that's even possible to change on a ROM tune).

Not sure what numbers to expect, but I will post up the results!

[cbh148]

So to follow up, Martin and George from RS-Enthalpy got to play with my car on the dyno last night. They were running into some issues right off the bat which they believed to be fueling.

I have an inline Moroso fuel pressure gauge for my stock FPR. They said it was dropping some pressure up in the rev range, which Martin figured it could be due to the stock fuel pump wiring and/or my e-fan thermostatic switch being wired from the fuel pump fuse (I have a new OEM fan shroud and GKtech fan that I was waiting to put on until afterwards because I wasn't sure if it would be as easy to see the crank pulley with the timing light).

Martin clipped his jumper wires straight from my battery to the power wires that goes to the fuel pump (he made little openings in the insulation) then made another pull, but said it was still acting up.

He said it might be some rust in my tank, and maybe a bad fuel filter, so I immediately threw my brand new filter on. They said fuel pressure got about 2 pounds better, but the old fuel filter looked like it had some black specs coming out of it when they'd shake it. We looked in my fuel tank to see that it was really clean, but they said my Walbro was really old and brown (I got it in 2010, used).

They were confident that if I put a new fuel pump and sock in my tank that everything would be perfect so that it could go to 18 psi. With the issues it was having, they only went to almost 11 pounds, where it made 286 whp on the DynoJet (which they said was the good dyno that doesn't make the power seem higher than it really is). According to them, those were really good numbers for that low pressure, so my setup was pretty spot-on.

Martin was also very confident that at 18 pounds it would make 360-380 whp. He's coming back in about 3 months for another dyno day and said he wouldn't charge me since I got the word out for yesterdays event and got him a fully booked up day. That, and the fact that my dyno time didn't get to be used as well.

[S14DB]

I am impressed your stock FPR is still holding up. They do tend to start bypassing fuel under boost after a while. Especially with more flow and higher fuel pressure.

I still want to know what Martin set my rev limiter to. Have never hit the limiter.

[cbh148]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I am impressed your stock FPR is still holding up. They do tend to start bypassing fuel under boost after a while. Especially with more flow and higher fuel pressure.

I still want to know what Martin set my rev limiter to. Have never hit the limiter.

Yeah I asked them about my stock FPR and if it's risky to run it with a Walbro pump, and both Martin and George were very adamant about how good the original FPR's are, saying they "kicking major fucking ass" haha.

They said that the supposed need to get an aftermarket FPR at modest power levels is a phenomenon from the FWD crowd, and that there's absolutely no reason to change from the stock FPR until 500+ whp, because there's actually a greater chance of having issues when using an aftermarket FPR underneath that power.

Having watched them work their magic on 12 cars in a row yesterday, with each one demonstrating that they know their stuff backwards and forwards, I'm highly inclined to believe them. It was impressive to say the least.

And you should contact Martin about your rev limiter rpm. He could probably have your answer pulled up for you super quick.

[Tom N]

I still have the stock fpr with a walbro and put down 450hp. The factory fpr works good.

[KoukiMonsta]

What's everyone's thoughts on using the direct bolt on version vs. generic 3" inlet style?

I can see the potential to make a bit more power, though I like the idea of bolt on utilizing what I already have and keeping the clean look. Can anyone actually quantify what type of differences you would see in power? Am I that much better off going with the larger inlet style?

Side note this would be in combo with s3, oem manifold, and external gate for reference.

Thanks

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta

What's everyone's thoughts on using the direct bolt on version vs. generic 3" inlet style?

I can see the potential to make a bit more power, though I like the idea of bolt on utilizing what I already have and keeping the clean look. Can anyone actually quantify what type of differences you would see in power? Am I that much better off going with the larger inlet style?

Side note this would be in combo with s3, oem manifold, and external gate for reference.

Thanks

I asked the same question when going with my GTX2867, and I decided in the 3" for no other reason than I knew that in a year, I never would wish I would have stayed bolt on...ya know. IDK how much power difference there actually would be, but you are already spending 1200 on a turbo, why not just go and do it right from the beginning?

[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta

What's everyone's thoughts on using the direct bolt on version vs. generic 3" inlet style?

I can see the potential to make a bit more power, though I like the idea of bolt on utilizing what I already have and keeping the clean look. Can anyone actually quantify what type of differences you would see in power? Am I that much better off going with the larger inlet style?

Side note this would be in combo with s3, oem manifold, and external gate for reference.

Thanks

I have the direct bolt on 2871r (52 trim), I like the "stock look appearance" and also works and bolts straight up with what I already have.
I don't like to fab stuff up too much, depending on my mood...lol.

I believe the 3inch inlet (56. Trim), just makes about 10-15whp more.

My friend Sr made 366whp on E85, 16 psi on a 52 trim.

My gt2871r sits in my closet right now, waiting to be installed by December.
I think it just comes down to your own personal preference on which to choose.

[KoukiMonsta]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I asked the same question when going with my GTX2867, and I decided in the 3" for no other reason than I knew that in a year, I never would wish I would have stayed bolt on...ya know. IDK how much power difference there actually would be, but you are already spending 1200 on a turbo, why not just go and do it right from the beginning?

okay, Im sold. you are correct, I would never be happy about it in the end.

luckily, I like to fab stuff!

[RalliartRsX]

cbh148, why would you disable the knock sensor?? It is actualy active in the regions of most importance and actualy load (it's inactive below 44-4600 I believe). The largest loads occur in the mid range when going full throttle, so I am not sure that is such a good idea.

And in terms of load, I am not talking about just simply airflow, but how the engine transitions from no throttle to WOT in the middle of the RPM range. It's similar to putting it in 5th and going WOT going up a hill from 3K onwards.

[Tom N]

I was under the impression the knock sensor goes inactive above 5500 rpms on a SR?

[cbh148]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

cbh148, why would you disable the knock sensor?? It is actualy active in the regions of most importance and actualy load (it's inactive below 44-4600 I believe). The largest loads occur in the mid range when going full throttle, so I am not sure that is such a good idea.

And in terms of load, I am not talking about just simply airflow, but how the engine transitions from no throttle to WOT in the middle of the RPM range. It's similar to putting it in 5th and going WOT going up a hill from 3K onwards.

From what I've experienced, the knock sensor has never saved an engine of mine. I've always disabled them and never ran into any issues. Matter of fact, every time I've ever had one, I did have issues with them going bad and throwing the code (with the limp mode of course), or even better is when I've had one go bad but still be returning a signal to the ECU that was within the "possible" range, so it was basically telling the computer that it was knocking all the time (even when the engine was off haha) and pulling timing like crazy.

Martin was all for disabling the knock sensor. They're more for helping with saving the engine if non-premium gasoline is accidentally put in, rather than for saving the engine if it leans out spontaneously doing sportscar stuff.

Originally Posted by Tom N

I was under the impression the knock sensor goes inactive above 5500 rpms on a SR?

Yeah I've heard that too -- that it gets ignored beyond some rpm.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by cbh148

From what I've experienced, the knock sensor has never saved an engine of mine. I've always disabled them and never ran into any issues. Matter of fact, every time I've ever had one, I did have issues with them going bad and throwing the code (with the limp mode of course), or even better is when I've had one go bad but still be returning a signal to the ECU that was within the "possible" range, so it was basically telling the computer that it was knocking all the time (even when the engine was off haha) and pulling timing like crazy.

Martin was all for disabling the knock sensor. They're more for helping with saving the engine if non-premium gasoline is accidentally put in, rather than for saving the engine if it leans out spontaneously doing sportscar stuff.

Yeah I've heard that too -- that it gets ignored beyond some rpm.

I find the knock sensor to be a VALUABLE TOOL when tuning with a real stand alone. With a real time stand alone you can drive the car, monitor your injector duty cycle and log all of your changes per unit time. Advance the ignition timing bit by bit, remove fuel, and watch your injector duty cycle drop during several consecutive highway drives for maximum fuel efficiency while avoiding the bleeding edge.

Furthermore, just because you are listening to the knock sensor, does not mean you have to react to it. In other words, if I had the option of knowing what it says, vs flat out removing it, I would rather simply have that additional data flowing in to react to if necessary. Just for curiosity sake I've put "bad" numbers in places to see if the knock sensor knows whats up... and it does. It always does. Just some food, it is a tool and should be treated like one.

[cbh148]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

I find the knock sensor to be a VALUABLE TOOL when tuning with a real stand alone. With a real time stand alone you can drive the car, monitor your injector duty cycle and log all of your changes per unit time. Advance the ignition timing bit by bit, remove fuel, and watch your injector duty cycle drop during several consecutive highway drives for maximum fuel efficiency while avoiding the bleeding edge.

Yeah, it would be totally different if I was dealing with a real stand alone fuel management setup.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Furthermore, just because you are listening to the knock sensor, does not mean you have to react to it. In other words, if I had the option of knowing what it says, vs flat out removing it, I would rather simply have that additional data flowing in to react to if necessary. Just for curiosity sake I've put "bad" numbers in places to see if the knock sensor knows whats up... and it does. It always does. Just some food, it is a tool and should be treated like one.

Believe me, I agree with you. I'd rather be using a legitimate full stand alone setup where I could monitor knock and actually make more accurate use of it. At that point, I'd have zero qualms with just buying a brand new OEM knock sensor (heard bad things about the off-brand units) and a new WiringSpecialties knock sensor subharness to go with it to give it the best chance of operating smoothly and cleanly.