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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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09-15-2007, 10:18 PM | #332 |
Cam in Block is the way to go
I really don't understand all this discussion about overhead cam V8's. A lot of them are as wide as big blocks and that's not an ideal situation with our cars.
Cam in block motors (SBF, SBC, LS1 etc.) are physically smaller, usually lighter, and can make as much power as these other engines. I am doing a SBC V8 240. It will have a custom engine set up. Nothing too fancy, but reliable and powerful. It will be carb fed as well. |
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09-21-2007, 12:04 AM | #333 | |
Leaky Injector
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so if its that easy whats the labor cost/wiring cost for this? same as sr price? for me i got that for 350. if its easier than would it be like what... 250... 300? has the price for the kit been lowered? last i checked today on this site was 1225 or sometihng from you. that still the price even if you get corvette mounts already?
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11-04-2007, 03:41 PM | #336 |
Leaky Injector
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Made my first run with the LS1 last night and I'm pretty happy with it. 12.77 @111.49. This was at MIR, only got to do 3 runs and I was running 225/45/18s on the rear open stock diff and full interior. Weighed the car with full interior, full stereo, full tank, tools, spare tire, 3200 with me in the car (185). Like I said, I'm pretty happy, I was able to run with some moddified Saleens and I got to chase a new Z06 and a Porshe GT2.
I was spinning through the top of third gear, kind of scary at half track kicking sideways. |
11-24-2007, 11:37 PM | #337 |
I am currently putting a carb'd 350 into my S13 with a TH350 transmission. Has anyone done this? I really would like some tips on mount placement, and setting the drive angle (pinion angle).
I really wish I could afford an LS1, but making my house payment is more important. However, I do have a welder, access to steel, and a lot of time. Anyways, any tips would be appreciated. Ill be helping a friend with his ls1 swap soon , so maybe that experience will help my project. |
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11-25-2007, 08:07 AM | #338 | |
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11-25-2007, 09:08 AM | #339 |
Actually if you would post or pm me pictures of your mount set-up, I wanted to make my own. And maybe a description of where you are mounting them, etc... I would really appreciate it. I have almost everything I need, now Im just stumped on the mounting process.
Also, if I used my stock gas tank, walbro 255 pump, and utilize the return line to the gas tank, with a fuel regulator set around 7 psi, would this fuel set-up work without burning up the pump? |
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11-25-2007, 02:13 PM | #340 |
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could some one possibly post up some wiring diagrams or details on wiring for EFI and TBI 350s into 240sx?
also g6civcx how much are we talking for these mounts? |
11-25-2007, 02:30 PM | #341 | |
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The mounting is the most difficult part. Everything else is just nuts and bolts. I don't want to divulge details on the mounts right now because it's not finalized. After I can get the entire drivetrain working then it will be released. You need a fuel pump controller to regulate the pressure down to 7PSI. Most electronic FPR won't go that low. The pump will be no worse than on a stock engine. Or you can ditch your stock fuel pump completely and run the chevy mechanical pump. No return line necessary. |
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11-25-2007, 04:37 PM | #343 |
WTF is the big secret? I thought we all joined boards like this to learn\share info. THIS is what is holding my swap back, im taking detailed notes, measurements, pictures, etc... to share with everybody. I'm not holding anything back. Why cant others be the same way?
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12-10-2007, 10:01 PM | #346 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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1. Modify transmission tunnel to clear frontal hump on the transmission. This is usually done by bashing the transmission tunnel to give it enough clearance to fit. 2. Put a 3/4" spacer between the x-member and the chassis to give the transmission enough clearance. I chose #2 because it was a much cleaner install. You will need pillow end links to compensate for the suspension drop. As for engine mounting setups You can check out my thread here... http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...highlight=mmdb I used a rb20det x-member from a skyline gts r32. Reason being the pods that support the engine come up directly to the engine. This helps with ease of install. If you plan on using the existing x-member you can do a search on LS1tech.com and you'll find a few people (daftpunk being one that comes to mind) that have used this approach. As for the transmission mount I used a bushing made by Energy suspension and a custom fabricated brace that used the stock mounting points. This again made for a clean install. There's more than one way to approach this install. Some are easier than others. As far as wiring goes you'll need to make sure the fuel pump is running when given ignition and also the ignition wires need to be powered up. That's basically it. Also, don't forget to get the VAS (vehicle antilock system ) disabled. Otherwise it won't let you start the car. Good luck. PM me if you have any other questions. |
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12-10-2007, 10:04 PM | #347 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I believe there's more than one version for the 240sx. Make sure it's for the turbo motor or high hp. I think it's 255lph. Also, when there's fuel pressure make sure you get ~65ps. |
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12-15-2007, 06:52 PM | #348 |
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hey not to thread jack or anything but there's another site that you might find helpful www.silviaV8.com
i have pix of my ls13 on there and alot of others do to. just figured i'd throw that out there. |
12-15-2007, 09:12 PM | #349 |
Leaky Injector
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i did the 302 v8 swap in my 240 sx s14. it was really time consuming and yes hard. alot of fabricated parts. alot alot of time. mounts were a problem i had to make them out of another one off ebay. (mustang wearhouse) the oil pan i used a 351w and it fit great. driveshaft i had custom made by fleetpride for 200.00. wiring was actually pretty easy when u got a master tech as a friend .. but i will post pics soon. its in flat satin black as of now and currently up for sale for 8k. my painter bailed on me due to problems he was having with the fam so i may just sell it if flat satin..it looks mean...anyone need any info your more then welcome to pm me if need be, or if your interested in the 302 torque monster, pm me also... ciao
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12-23-2007, 01:35 PM | #350 |
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A peek at mine. Clears the hood just fine even with the air cleaner.
Chevy 350 GenI, carb, Borg Warner T5, HEI, mechanical fuel pump, block hugger headers, custom Y-pipe to meet stock cat, BMC is reused, clutch master is reused, custom brake lines from BMC to caliper, taka clutch line, custom rear sump oil pan cut and rewelded to clear subframe, steering rack is reused, custom hi and lo pressure steering lines, jones racing serpentine kit which comes with alt, steering pump, idler pulley, water pump bracket, oil filter relocation kit. The motor clears the SR koyo and FAL by a good 10". The firewall is moved back a good 6". If anybody has any specific question about this setup PM me. Please do not ask about mounts, for now. |
12-24-2007, 11:13 AM | #351 | |
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01-27-2008, 12:21 AM | #354 |
Zilvia Addict
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what headers will work with LS2 (GTO) in S14?
I know they need to be modified, and everyone says longtubes are best. I just need to figure out what I can order so I don't have to have him make it from scratch. |
01-27-2008, 12:26 AM | #355 |
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www.hinsonsupercars.com makes bolt in long tube headers. They are full tig welded, and stainless. Give brain a call, he is a nice guy and can help you with your swap.
fyi. ls1/ls2 headers are the same.
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01-27-2008, 01:27 AM | #356 |
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Hello sirs, working on my S13 (hatchback) + LS1 swap, everything is pretty much planned out except for the frame, what exactly do you guys recommend I do/have done to keep my frame from getting bent out of shape? Going fast is fun and all but I certainly want to still be able to close my door! haha. Aiming for around 400 hp out of the LS1..
Read through here but didn't find to much info on that other than something needs to be done Thanks! |
01-28-2008, 12:08 PM | #357 |
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Thanks Luke, but paying $800+ for a set of headers is crazy to me when I got access to someone who can modify a set.
Risu - most of the cars I've seen have had been stitch welded and/or caged, but I've never seen anyone say its needed. Unless you're referring to the modification for lower cross member, which is needed to clear the oil pan. |
01-28-2008, 07:47 PM | #359 | |
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Your frame should be fine. Dont worry about twisting the frame unless you are running huge slicks and like 600 whp.
You can stiffen it up by seam welding and caging the car though if you want. Quote:
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