V8 240sx FAQ

[doc99]

I, personally, think $1700 is a bit much. It cost me $75 in steel to build my motor and tranny mount. If you want a bolt in kit it's great though, nice quality. With these cars and these motors I find the appeal of building you own kit more satisfying then buying a kit. Also it cost me around $6000, that's from having no car no motor or anything, to having a running LS1'ed 240sx. I had a few hook-ups though

Now for you questions

Originally Posted by twistedsymphony

Some Questions I still have:
-Are there any Y-Pipes on the market that will bolt up to a set of S14 compatible headers and mate up to the factory S14 cat location? I've seen a few headders mentioned but everyone seems to say that Ypipes have to be custom made

Not that I know of. You pretty much need to build a full custom exhaust. My LS13 is going in tomorrow to get mine built.

Originally Posted by twistedsymphony

-What is needed to get AC and heat working?

Heat is two hoses, from the block to the firewall. It's cake

A/C will need your Nissan lines mated up with the Chevy lines. Fairly easy.

Originally Posted by twistedsymphony

-What is needed to get power steering working?

I bought a line from PXRacing. It was $100, braided with nice fittings. P/S works fine.

Originally Posted by twistedsymphony

-What is needed to get the factory gauges working?

Tach should work wiring in the LS1 PCM straight to the gauges. Water temp will need your stock 240sx sensor placed somewhere on the LS1 and wires ran to the cluster. Speedo needs a Dakota Digital conversion box. Fuel level works as normal.

Originally Posted by twistedsymphony

-I've seen people talk about upgrading to a walboro fuel pump but wouldn't you also have to upgrade the fuel filter? What about on the engine end? does the LS1 have a FPR that can be used? Anything needed to adapt it to the LS1?

You need a Walbro and a Vette FPR/Filter. You read that correct, the Vette has the regulator and the filter all in one unit. Costs $45 or so from any parts store. From a '98+ Vette

Originally Posted by twistedsymphony

-What about other amenities such as Cruise Control, how do you get those working?

No idea on cruise, I'm guessing you could just hook up the cables and it should work. My car doesn't have cruise so I'm not positive on that.

[twistedsymphony]

Thanks for the great replies doc99

I agree that $1700 is pretty expensive for the Sikky kit but I personally don't have any welding equipment nor very good welding skills (I took a one day course about 8 years ago and never really practiced since). Comparing it to to the Hinson and other kits it's actually cheaper considering it includes the drive shaft and oil pan which are two things not included in the other kits that you'll probably need to get anyway.

This will be my first engine swap though and I'm pretty confident that with a kit like that I'll be able to pull it off... maybe I'll invest in some welding equipment and try my hand at making that y-pipe so the next project I tackle I'll custom fab myself.

[doc99]

Building exhaust sucks man. I built my headers and it was a nightmare. I built everything else for my swap by myself but when it comes to precisely routing piping (like exhaust) I'm leaving it to the pros next time.

[twistedsymphony]

haha... ok then... maybe I'll have that done.

thankfully there is a custom exhaust shop less than a mile from my house so transporting the car there shouldn't be too difficult. they do good work too I've had them do repairs the shat-tastic HKS exhaust I had on my WRX as well as build a full blown custom exhaust for a Toyota off-road pickup i used to own...

Another fun fact is that a few days ago I realized that there is a salvage yard that specializes in camaros and firebirds less than 5 miles from my house as well. I just shot them off an email earlier today to see if they have an LS1s... if that doesn't work out I found a guy with a whole Camaro SS (smashed in rear end) that he's willing to sell for about $2500... cheap motorset with all the fixins FTW

[doc99]

That a damn good price. Get that Camaro, especially if it's a 6-speed.

I bought a Flowmaster Super 40, a catco cat and am having my shit built as we speak. I'll be into the whole deal for a bit over $400. Not too bad for a collector-back exhaust.

[twistedsymphony]

well I've already got a nice 3" catback and a 3" catco cat... I'm hoping that I can find a reasonably priced set of headers that will clear the steering column and then just have the shop down the street build a Y-pipe for ~$100... they built a 3" header back exhaust for my Toyota for ~$130... worst case is they have to build the whole thing and sell the catback though I hope I don't have to.

EDIT: Update here since I don't want to double post

I've talked with someone from PX Racing and they also make a kit: http://shop.pxracing.com/main.sc

their kit right now is for the S14 and they're working on an S13 version.

They use cross member modification with the GTO oil pan similar to Hinson but they make custom engine and transmission mounts... I should also mention that for what they offer the quality looks fantastic and they're the cheapest kit on the market from what I can tell.

Another interesting thing is that they make Power Steering Conversion lines as well as AC conversion lines and do ECU tuning... Certainly a kit to consider if you plan on doing this swap...

[RUTH'LESSDET]

Hey guys I'm currently doing and ls2 swap and I need a part # or some help finding a fitting from the outlet of the corvette fuel filter to a -6an. I don't wanna use that 12" dormans part is there any other alternatives???

[doc99]

I bought the 12" one and cut it in half so now I have an extra one. I couldn't find the 6" part number. Kinda shitty since the 12" one is like $20. Oh well.

[RUTH'LESSDET]

Originally Posted by doc99

I bought the 12" one and cut it in half so now I have an extra one. I couldn't find the 6" part number. Kinda shitty since the 12" one is like $20. Oh well.

so when u cut it does it have to be flared?

[twistedsymphony]

When I was doing research I found this part:
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com...rod/prd256.htm

a lot of the RX7 guys were using it since they have a -6AN fitting as well.

[doc99]

Originally Posted by RUTH'LESSDET

so when u cut it does it have to be flared?

Flared for the rubber line? It might be a good idea but I had to rush getting my car together since I'm headed out of the country. I've had the rubber line on there withno flare for a couple weeks now and it's working fine. No leaks yet. As long as you use quality clamps and proper sized hose I don't see it being a huge issue. I'll eventually run some braided lines with a similar fitting that was posted above.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by RUTH'LESSDET

Hey guys I'm currently doing and ls2 swap and I need a part # or some help finding a fitting from the outlet of the corvette fuel filter to a -6an. I don't wanna use that 12" dormans part is there any other alternatives???

I'm running a mechanical fuel pump and a fuel cell so my experience won't help you.

But if worst comes to worst, can you weld a fitting onto the fuel filter? I don't know what the fuel filter looks like, but at worst you can consider doing that.

[RUTH'LESSDET]

Originally Posted by twistedsymphony

When I was doing research I found this part:
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com...rod/prd256.htm

a lot of the RX7 guys were using it since they have a -6AN fitting as well.

Hey twisted do you know if everything in the picture is included because thats pretty much what i need(well its the item on the right the tube with the fitting on it)

[twistedsymphony]

I don't know to be honest but I've heard their tech support is fantastic so you might just give them a call...

[Sir]

Originally Posted by doc99

I, personally, think $1700 is a bit much.

that doesn't include headers.
so its pretty expensive.

[twistedsymphony]

Originally Posted by Sir

that doesn't include headers.
so its pretty expensive.

but it does include the drive shaft and the oil pan which would cost roughly $700 on top of any other kit, including a custom build.

... not to mention the oilpan is built much better for track use than the GTO pan that everyone elses uses (which is notorious for causing oil starvation during hard cornering BTW)

and the engine mounts are CNCed out of solid aluminum as opposed to welded together so it's a whole lot more precise than any of the other kits.

when it comes down to it, after factoring in the pan and driveshaft it's only about $200 more than the PX racing kit, and a lot higher quality, and it's CHEAPER than the other kits out there... not to mention that $200 you saved with the PX Racing kit is lost when you have to buy an accusump to make up for the crappy oil pan.

building the kit yourself is always the cheapest... but that goes out the window unless you have welding equipment AND know how to weld well enough to pull it off.

[doc99]

I can't say I've heard of GTO oiling problems due to the pan. The way the pickup area is designed I can't see it being a problem.

[twistedsymphony]

Originally Posted by doc99

I can't say I've heard of GTO oiling problems due to the pan. The way the pickup area is designed I can't see it being a problem.

I don't know the details as to why but I have a number of friends who are into GM cars and the few that track GTOs on the weekends all run Accusumps because of this apparent problem.

[Sir]

GTO pan need extra half a quart. thats on GTO manual or something.
I'll trust GM cast one vs someone I've never heard of. Just because they have a welder and access to CNC machine.

and for $1700 bux, you can get yourself a lot of steel and a nice welder OR lots of beer for your friends.

But if you got their mounts, I'd love to get some specs on them, I can replicate you a free extra pair.

[550sx!]

like the firewall mod.

did one to mine too for my 327 to fit nicely

would post pic but can not get them to work
so far I can only post on nicoclub and have the pics work.
pulling url from picassaweb.google and gives me big fat X

Originally Posted by g6civcx

A peek at mine. Clears the hood just fine even with the air cleaner.

Chevy 350 GenI, carb, Borg Warner T5, HEI, mechanical fuel pump, block hugger headers, custom Y-pipe to meet stock cat, BMC is reused, clutch master is reused, custom brake lines from BMC to caliper, taka clutch line, custom rear sump oil pan cut and rewelded to clear subframe, steering rack is reused, custom hi and lo pressure steering lines, jones racing serpentine kit which comes with alt, steering pump, idler pulley, water pump bracket, oil filter relocation kit.

The motor clears the SR koyo and FAL by a good 10". The firewall is moved back a good 6".

If anybody has any specific question about this setup PM me. Please do not ask about mounts, for now.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by 550sx!

would post pic but can not get them to work
so far I can only post on nicoclub and have the pics work.
pulling url from picassaweb.google and gives me big fat X

Try ImageShack. Search on google for the link. Upload and copy/paste the link it spits out. You can choose one with img tags already appended or direct link URL.

Quick update. I got Package 1: http://www.jegs.com/p/GM+Performance...10002/-1/10763

Block hugger headers, 3" Y-pipe and open exhaust. No other mod.

Yesterday on the Dynapack it made 325 ft-lbs of torque at the wheels, which should be around 390-395 at the crank if you believe in 15% parasytic loss. I'll upload the dyno sheet shortly.

Motor makes 295 ft-lbs at 1,500 RPM all the way up to 4,500 RPM. Response is excellent.

[twistex]

Hi, this is Rich at Daft Innovations. I have been reading some of these posts and I obviously know the other kits that are available out there. Kits are mainly for people that have money, no urge to weld or make there own kit. The sikky kit is for someone who has a good amount of money that wants to set there car up for track and wants to make sure they have the best protection while cornering etc. The custom pan does allow for them to sit motor slightly lower but I don't agree on it sitting back farther. My kit that I charge 1630 for consists of a engine subframe NO CORE required, Engine mounts, Transmission crossmember and mount, Driveline in steel or add 200 for aluminum, 1 3/4 Long tube headers 3 inch collectors, and a power steering line steel braided. I try to be fair but the headers alone are a huge headache when it comes to tig welding them up. Anyways there are a few nice kits out there that I have seen. Each one of them have there perks. One thing I do know is my kit has been tested for over 2 years and many hours of drifting and track events under its belt with no failures. My original headers from over 2 years ago that are 18 gauge mild steel still have no cracked or anything. My new headers I make are 16 gauge.. why replace something on my track/daily driver if its not broken. The whole reason I decided to even market a kit is because when I was performing my ls1 swap no one made headers! I would have bought them back then to save time and headaches. I think my kits still the cheapest for what you get. I will admit that Sikky oil pan looks dope

[twistedsymphony]

I didn't know you guys offered headers. What's the price on those?

I'm still torn between your kit and the Sikky kit... basically I'm still waiting to find a reasonably priced motorset.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by twistex

I don't agree on it sitting back farther

I'll agree with you here. Most bolt-in kits have terrible engine placement because you don't have to notch the firewall. I haven't seen one kit that has good placement. That's why I went with custom mounts.

Plus nobody makes a mount kit for Gen I GM small block V8.

[Sir]

Originally Posted by twistex

I try to be fair but the headers alone are a huge headache when it comes to tig welding them up.

Headers suck.
We're making mine now. Tackling the easy side first and I still am tempted to just order up a pair and say "fuck it"
But I want stainless and with my luck they won't fit, LOL.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by Sir

Headers suck.
We're making mine now. Tackling the easy side first and I still am tempted to just order up a pair and say "fuck it"
But I want stainless and with my luck they won't fit, LOL.

Can you make it cheaper than you can buy?

Hedman Hedders - Block Hugger Hedders
Holley Performance Super Comp Block hugger Products

[RUTH'LESSDET]

Got my car fired up yesterday take a look!

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by RUTH'LESSDET

Got my car fired up yesterday take a look!

Sweet! sounds healthy and good. What are your plans for exhaust?

[RUTH'LESSDET]

Originally Posted by Neejay

Sweet! sounds healthy and good. What are your plans for exhaust?

I'm gonna be running a 3" kooks y-pipe(from a ls1 camaro needs to be modded for my car) into 3" catco cat into a apex-I gt spec exhaust

[qwarnon]

alright im probably going to get told to search.. but ive been searching and im looking for a better or more exact answer. I have seen answers to some of these questions.. but im trying to get them all in one place.
if someone can point me in the right direction thats great.

anyway.. im in the process of a chevy gen 1 355 swap into an s13 coupe. there are only a couple things i need help with. I'm not worried about hood clearance right now ill work on that later, what i need to know is:

A) can i modify the oil pan and pickup to fit with out hacking up my crossmember
(this is what i would prefer) i was thinking possibly extending the oil pickup tube to the front of the pan and just fabricating a pan with basically a front sump.

OR can i buy a premodified oil pan that would allow clearance with little to no crossmember modding

B) do i need to notch my firewall at all and if so where? im using an old
T-10 4speed with some internal upgrades. I picked this for its small size and mechanical simplicity. i figured that with its small size it would make less firewall fabrication necessary.

C)what have most Gen 1 swappers done for mounts? i know there is always full custom (which may be best) but also there are universal small block chevy mounts that hot rod and rat rod builders use. would these work well?

D) power steering. ill be using block hugger headers and should be able to perform any mods needed to get them to clear.. any special tricks to getting clearance?

thanks alot in advance. if these questions have been answered before please point me in the right direction. I've been reasearching for a long time now while slowly rebuilding the motor.. and its getting to the point where its time to get her dropped in. so im trying to get a general consensus on these things.