*Ask Broadfield*

[moco]

Is the jl audio 5 channel amp good for 4 door speakers and a w7 10in

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by moco

Is the jl audio 5 channel amp good for 4 door speakers and a w7 10in

Which JL are you talking about? The XD700/5 or the HD900/5?

[moco]

The HD900/5

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by moco

The HD900/5

Well, here's the deal... that thing is way overpriced. I sell JL Audio of course, but I also sell ARC Audio... which is a better bang for the buck company. Sure, ARC Audio's SE series amplifiers will stomp all over anything JL Audio has to offer. However, they are very expensive. Then you get into what I would call the best amplifier series on the market... ARC Audio's XDi series. It's their entry level amplifier line, but it has the build quality of JL's Slash series... for WAY less money. Sound quality is very close to that of the HD series. So the JL HD900/5 retails for $1195 and is 100 watts x 4 and 500 watts x 1. The ARC Audio XDi805 retails for $469 and is 80 watts x 4 and 400 watts x 1. That little of a difference in power is hard for the human ear to even notice the difference. Recommended power for a 10W7 is 300-750 watts... so you would be fine with either amplifier. I would also consider the ARC Audio Black 10" sub. It's considered the W6 killer for far less money. As I stated earlier, JL is overpriced. I sell product that is better for less money. Take Hybrid Audio speakers for example: they will outperform anything JL has, or any other company for that matter, for less money.

Please PM me if you need pricing on the ARC amplifier or anything else.

I'm an authorized dealer for:

• Alpine
• ARC Audio
• Hybrid Audio
• JL Audio
• JVC
• Rockford Fosgate

[e5s4y]

Hey Toby, I'm in the process if a fusebox relocation for an s13 and iirc I have a 5904v. While unplugging a couple plugs I accidentally disconnected a few of the wires for the alarm and can't remember where they go. As far as I can see there's a smaller gauge (18ish gauge) brown w/black stripe wire on the alarm side, and ignition side I have an orange wire tapped in to an orange wire, a green wire tapped in to a green w/yellow stripe, and a yellow tapped in to a red w/blue stripe wire. When it was being installed we had those 3 wires out trying to figure out which one was correct and eventually found it, but now I can't remember which of those (ignition side) go in to the brown w/black stripe alarm side. Do you know which one is right? Feel free to ask any questions you need since I'm sure that was confusing, haha

[tabasco122]

If its the 24 pin harness on the alarm it should go to be negative horn output.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by e5s4y

Hey Toby, I'm in the process if a fusebox relocation for an s13 and iirc I have a 5904v. While unplugging a couple plugs I accidentally disconnected a few of the wires for the alarm and can't remember where they go. As far as I can see there's a smaller gauge (18ish gauge) brown w/black stripe wire on the alarm side, and ignition side I have an orange wire tapped in to an orange wire, a green wire tapped in to a green w/yellow stripe, and a yellow tapped in to a red w/blue stripe wire. When it was being installed we had those 3 wires out trying to figure out which one was correct and eventually found it, but now I can't remember which of those (ignition side) go in to the brown w/black stripe alarm side. Do you know which one is right? Feel free to ask any questions you need since I'm sure that was confusing, haha

The brown/black is the - horn output out of the Viper. Which on an S13 would need to be wired to the green/white horn wire at the steering column.

Originally Posted by tabasco122

ignition switch or alarm brain possibly. the remote starter is placed in between the ignition switch and the starter relay. i would double check your violet/green connections on the heavy gauge high current wires coming out of the alarm brain.

Originally Posted by tabasco122

If its the 24 pin harness on the alarm it should go to be negative horn output.

I feel like this is turning into an "Ask Tabasco122" thread.

[hpipro4]

[QUOTE=Broadfield;5056429]As tobasco stated, the OEM starter wire loops through the Viper. The heavy gauge green wire is the input and the heavy gauge violet is the output. If it remote starts every time and doesn't always start with the key then it could just be coincidence and it just hasn't acted up yet during remote start. Otherwise you could have one of the following:

• Bad connection where you attached the green wire to the OEM starter wire.
• Bad Viper brain... I have never seen this portion of the Viper brain be bad though... EVER. My shop installs 500 Viper remote start systems every year.
• Bad ignition key cylinder.

You can easily diagnose this issue with a DMM as long as you can get the issue to occur while testing.

If it is just a coincidence that it hasn't acted up yet during remote start, then it could be an issue with absolutely anything in the ignition chain.

I guess I should of asked this first: when you say it doesn't allow you to start the car, that's a very loose description. Does it not crank at all, does it crank and not fire, does it make any noise at all when you turn the key to crank?




it wont crank at all with the key but remote start functions fine via/remote and the grounding switch i made. i did more diag on the issue and its definitely not the key cylinder nor clutch switch or starter relay because it fires up when i bypassed the starter signal going into the alarm purple/green wire. so im thinking the the brain might be having issues or could it be the way the flex relay is programmed?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by hpipro4

it wont crank at all with the key but remote start functions fine via/remote and the grounding switch i made. i did more diag on the issue and its definitely not the key cylinder nor clutch switch or starter relay because it fires up when i bypassed the starter signal going into the alarm purple/green wire. so im thinking the the brain might be having issues or could it be the way the flex relay is programmed?

So when you crank and it doesn't work, I assume it has 12 volts on the green wire at the brain, but not on the violet wire at the brain?

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

So when you crank and it doesn't work, I assume it has 12 volts on the green wire at the brain, but not on the violet wire at the brain?

ahh forgot about that one....ill check in the morning!

[BarrigaS14]

I got this weird idea of installing a tablet (android based) into my car. What can the tablet hook into that is not a head unit? I have a head unit that has bluetooth, works well. But was wondering if there was something else too hook into. Maybe able to charge it and play/stream music with one connection? What other parts would i need for this?

[hpipro4]

what size AN did you use for your radiator hoses?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by hpipro4

what size AN did you use for your radiator hoses?

-16 hose/fittings

[lalo167]

What gauge wire do you recommend to extend injector wires?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by lalo167

What gauge wire do you recommend to extend injector wires?

I would do 18 just to be safe on injectors... most other wiring is 20 gauge though.

[moco]

Thanks for the info broadfield when I get my money together ill send you a PM. also what radio do you recommend for my 240 if I want to listen to pandora through my phone?

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

-16 hose/fittings

thanks! another thing noticed you modded your evaporator, what a/c lines are you going to run to go on the dryer? i took the high pressure line frm dryer going to evaporator and noticed they have a weird flare like flat then o-ring.

thanks

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by moco

Thanks for the info broadfield when I get my money together ill send you a PM. also what radio do you recommend for my 240 if I want to listen to pandora through my phone?

What phone do you have?

Originally Posted by hpipro4

thanks! another thing noticed you modded your evaporator, what a/c lines are you going to run to go on the dryer? i took the high pressure line frm dryer going to evaporator and noticed they have a weird flare like flat then o-ring.

thanks

I assume you were snooping around my Fotki account?

Yeah, I will have an update in my build thread and on my blog once I have everything sorted out with the AC setup for my LS3. I'm working on a tucked setup, so that's the reason for the fittings on the evaporator. Since the evaporator core is perfectly square, I'm rotating the core 90 degrees inside the housing so the lines poke out the bottom inside of the car instead of out through the firewall. However, I'm in the process of redoing them from what you saw in the pics to make them lower profile. The fittings in question are the industry standard o-ring pilot. They are made in #6, #8 and #10. It's the standard fitting used on aftermarket AC items and some OEM AC parts. The advantage is that XRP makes an AC lineup with braided hose and hose ends/fittings than can you can assemble yourself. So I will have the two braided lines that come out of the back of the compressor go straight to the firewall. Everything else in the AC setup will be hidden. You can find those hose and fittings starting on page 64 of the XRP catalog.

Typically one line from the compressor goes to the firewall, while the other line from the compressor goes to the condenser, then to the dryer, then to the firewall... which typically all of these lines going everywhere are seen in the engine bay.

With my tucked setup the line that goes from the compressor to the condenser will actually go inside of the cabin through a custom firewall bulkhead. It will then go back out through the passenger upper inner fender area to the front of the car where the condenser and drier will be hidden in front of the radiator. From there a line will come back the same way to the inside of the cabin and into the evaporator. Then out of the evaporator, to the second custom bulkhead and then out of the bulkhead to the compressor. This will give me a very clean setup.

The downfall of this is that the OEM LS compressor does not use the standard aftermarket o-ring pilot fitting. So I have to convert the compressor over to this fitting. There are compressor block adapters that do this, but at the moment I'm running into a mere 1/2" of clearance issue where the line would come out the back of the compressor and hit the runner on the header. Once I figure out a solution for this, I'll get the AC setup all done and post up all of the problems I had and issues putting this setup together the way I had it envisioned in my head.

[240sxDavid]

I get the feeling you're a real busy man broadfield

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by 240sxDavid

I get the feeling you're a real busy man broadfield

Extremely busy sometimes... other times just busy.

[moco]

I got a HTC thunderbolt for Verizon

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

What phone do you have?



I assume you were snooping around my Fotki account?

Yeah, I will have an update in my build thread and on my blog once I have everything sorted out with the AC setup for my LS3. I'm working on a tucked setup, so that's the reason for the fittings on the evaporator. Since the evaporator core is perfectly square, I'm rotating the core 90 degrees inside the housing so the lines poke out the bottom inside of the car instead of out through the firewall. However, I'm in the process of redoing them from what you saw in the pics to make them lower profile. The fittings in question are the industry standard o-ring pilot. They are made in #6, #8 and #10. It's the standard fitting used on aftermarket AC items and some OEM AC parts. The advantage is that XRP makes an AC lineup with braided hose and hose ends/fittings than can you can assemble yourself. So I will have the two braided lines that come out of the back of the compressor go straight to the firewall. Everything else in the AC setup will be hidden. You can find those hose and fittings starting on page 64 of the XRP catalog.

Typically one line from the compressor goes to the firewall, while the other line from the compressor goes to the condenser, then to the dryer, then to the firewall... which typically all of these lines going everywhere are seen in the engine bay.

With my tucked setup the line that goes from the compressor to the condenser will actually go inside of the cabin through a custom firewall bulkhead. It will then go back out through the passenger upper inner fender area to the front of the car where the condenser and drier will be hidden in front of the radiator. From there a line will come back the same way to the inside of the cabin and into the evaporator. Then out of the evaporator, to the second custom bulkhead and then out of the bulkhead to the compressor. This will give me a very clean setup.

The downfall of this is that the OEM LS compressor does not use the standard aftermarket o-ring pilot fitting. So I have to convert the compressor over to this fitting. There are compressor block adapters that do this, but at the moment I'm running into a mere 1/2" of clearance issue where the line would come out the back of the compressor and hit the runner on the header. Once I figure out a solution for this, I'll get the AC setup all done and post up all of the problems I had and issues putting this setup together the way I had it envisioned in my head.

are you going to use a different dryer? i browse thru the a/c fittings cant seem to find fittings for the stock dryer.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by moco

I got a HTC thunderbolt for Verizon

I would recommend the Alpine CDE-135BT or the CDE-HD138BT... both are designed for Pandora full control through an Android phone. Please let me know if you have any questions on either.

Originally Posted by hpipro4

are you going to use a different dryer? i browse thru the a/c fittings cant seem to find fittings for the stock dryer.

I bought a new aftermarket dryer and new aftermarket condenser... both obviously have the o-ring pilot fittings.

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I would recommend the Alpine CDE-135BT or the CDE-HD138BT... both are designed for Pandora full control through an Android phone. Please let me know if you have any questions on either.



I bought a new aftermarket dryer and new aftermarket condenser... both obviously have the o-ring pilot fittings.

if you dont mind me asking? where did you get them?

[moco]

Which one of these has the Bluetooth build in? Alpine CDE-135BT or the CDE-HD138BT

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by hpipro4

if you dont mind me asking? where did you get them?

I don't remember, I'll have to go back and check.

Originally Posted by moco

Which one of these has the Bluetooth build in? Alpine CDE-135BT or the CDE-HD138BT

Both do, hence the "BT" in the model #

[fliprayzin240sx]

Toby, got a quick question. My OEM alarm started acting all finicky all of the sudden. I tied the Viper 5901 disarm wire to the OEM disarm wire and soldered it like you told me a while back. But lately, for some reason, the OEM alarm started arming itself and would go off when I turn off the Viper alarm. Just to make sure, I just decided to cut the green/yellow disarm wire and just ground it out completely. That shouldnt affect the Viper alarm if the wire is still soldered to that wire after I grounded it correct?

[moco]

How much is the Alpine CDE-135BT shipped to 90270 PM me plz

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

Toby, got a quick question. My OEM alarm started acting all finicky all of the sudden. I tied the Viper 5901 disarm wire to the OEM disarm wire and soldered it like you told me a while back. But lately, for some reason, the OEM alarm started arming itself and would go off when I turn off the Viper alarm. Just to make sure, I just decided to cut the green/yellow disarm wire and just ground it out completely. That shouldnt affect the Viper alarm if the wire is still soldered to that wire after I grounded it correct?

No, that won't affect the Viper. Did that fix your problem by grounding the OEM disarm wire?

Originally Posted by moco

How much is the Alpine CDE-135BT shipped to 90270 PM me plz

You can simply find all pricing in my sig

http://zilvia.net/f/electronics/4786...nits-sale.html

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

No, that won't affect the Viper. Did that fix your problem by grounding the OEM disarm wire?



You can simply find all pricing in my sig

http://zilvia.net/f/electronics/4786...nits-sale.html

Think so, hasnt gone off today. Just wanted to make sure its not gonna make the Viper finicky since its technically grounded too since its still spliced to the same disarm wire behind the OEM brain.