*Ask Broadfield*

[e5s4y]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I kind of need to know what car you have!?!

Before I started typing I told myself to make sure I mentioned that, and. Still forgot! Ha
91 s13 hatch

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by e5s4y

Before I started typing I told myself to make sure I mentioned that, and. Still forgot! Ha
91 s13 hatch

Can you PM me your email and I'll send you a tech sheet.

Originally Posted by Zac--SRS13

I'm starting to hate my car because it seems like the simplest things are becoming 20 times harder then it should be.

I wired up a DIF PWM fan controller to my 90 S13 hatch with SR and its straight forward yet it's giving me problems.

I have it wired as follows.
BA -> Battery
IG -> Blue wire off the ignition
AC -> not yet connected
MA -> not yet connected
S+ -> to temp sensors positive wire
S- -> not connected because for some reason it only works with it disconnected.
Black ground -> ground
White ground -> fans ground wire
Fan+ -> battery
Sitting in my drive way I set the controller to 162F and let it warm up. My temp gauge hits 162F and the fans turn on. Perfect.

Would you happen to have any idea why my stupid controller would loose power when I'm under load though?

Sitting and idling the controller works perfect. Start driving or rev the engine and the controller shuts off completely. Then once I stop or the car idles agains the controller turns on.

This thing has been a pain in my ass the whole time I've had it and its driving me nuts. I'd hate to ditch it because it cost me a pretty penny.

Any input from anyone with any ideas would be extremely appreciated.

Where do you have it grounded?

[Zac--SRS13]

I'm starting to hate my car because it seems like the simplest things are becoming 20 times harder then it should be.

I wired up a DIF PWM fan controller to my 90 S13 hatch with SR and its straight forward yet it's giving me problems.

I have it wired as follows.
BA -> Battery
IG -> Blue wire off the ignition
AC -> not yet connected
MA -> not yet connected
S+ -> to temp sensors positive wire
S- -> not connected because for some reason it only works with it disconnected.
Black ground -> ground
White ground -> fans ground wire
Fan+ -> battery
Sitting in my drive way I set the controller to 162F and let it warm up. My temp gauge hits 162F and the fans turn on. Perfect.

Would you happen to have any idea why my stupid controller would loose power when I'm under load though?

Sitting and idling the controller works perfect. Start driving or rev the engine and the controller shuts off completely. Then once I stop or the car idles agains the controller turns on.

This thing has been a pain in my ass the whole time I've had it and its driving me nuts. I'd hate to ditch it because it cost me a pretty penny.

Any input from anyone with any ideas would be extremely appreciated.

[Zac--SRS13]

Just sanded a part of the chassis near the wiper motor and bolted it down there

[xZxCORE]

Also is in possible to talk XRP into doing different colors for there clamshell's?

[Konster]

I'm thinking of dyeing the carpet in my Vert. Do you have any suggestions on what product I should use?

Thanks in advanced.

[Konster]

No prob, thanks.

[sidewayz240]

Hey Toby, I've been working on a cluster surround similar to the one you just posted in the interior thread. I'm painting it with SEM color coat. The first time I painted straight onto the plastic, there was a very slight difference in how the paint took to the plastic vs. the body filler texture. So I got some plastic primer (not SEM product), primed it on the weekend and just tried laying on the SEM today and as I expected it lifted the primer slightly in spots. Any suggestions? Do you use any sort of primer normally?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by sidewayz240

Hey Toby, I've been working on a cluster surround similar to the one you just posted in the interior thread. I'm painting it with SEM color coat. The first time I painted straight onto the plastic, there was a very slight difference in how the paint took to the plastic vs. the body filler texture. So I got some plastic primer (not SEM product), primed it on the weekend and just tried laying on the SEM today and as I expected it lifted the primer slightly in spots. Any suggestions? Do you use any sort of primer normally?

Well, I never use primer and I never use filler.

[KiLLeR2001]

Dear Toby,

Are the Viper 5901 and Viper 3303V alarm systems compatible with the SmartStart module? Looking to take my cars to the app. Also, is there a password to get into the application in the event the user loses or gets his/her phone stolen?

Thanks.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Dear Toby,

Are the Viper 5901 and Viper 3303V alarm systems compatible with the SmartStart module? Looking to take my cars to the app. Also, is there a password to get into the application in the event the user loses or gets his/her phone stolen?

Thanks.

Actually, the SmartStart modules can be used on any system... even other brands. But it is more of a plug-and-play on the Viper systems. You would simply plug in the data plug and then wire 12v constant and ground to it.... DONE! Just let me know if you need any pricing. If you are buying more than one I will give you a little package deal!

Yes, there is a setting on the app to require the entering of a password before the app will open.

[KiLLeR2001]

In the event that the battery power is cut AND a backup battery is not installed, does the module itself have a rechargeable battery pack? Or even if the intruders cut the power to both the battery and backup battery power, will the SmartStart cease to track location?

Also, how much battery draw does the GPS SmartStart module use when its armed / not armed?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

In the event that the battery power is cut AND a backup battery is not installed, does the module itself have a rechargeable battery pack? Or even if the intruders cut the power to both the battery and backup battery power, will the SmartStart cease to track location?

Also, how much battery draw does the GPS SmartStart module use when its armed / not armed?

None of the Viper product has it's own power supply except for the battery backup and the backup siren. So if you do not have the battery backup, and main power is disconnected from the vehicle, then all items will cease to operate.

As for the amperage draw of the VSM250, it will be a constant draw.... it doesn't matter if it's "armed" or not. It obviously needs to be online at all times so it's functional at any moment. If I remember via testing I have done in the past, it has roughly 15-20 mA of draw.

Originally Posted by whiterps13

How is your car coming along? Or more importantly, how is that backyard doing?

Anything fun going on in Normal is this summer? LOL Its been a while.

Well, funny you ask. We had some high speed straight line winds a few weeks ago that ripped my pergola right off the patio. The steel posts were bolted to the concrete and it ripped the posts from the steel plates that are bolted down. It took all of my furniture and slammed it into the North fence and fucked up 18 feet of it.... bent it out over a foot. $4000 insurance claim. The pergola didn't even have the canvas top on it to catch wind. It was just the frame work. It also split my front Emperor 1 Japanese Maple.... really not happy about that. I had some furniture that blew over the fence two lots away. It was the weirdest thing.... it was almost like a tail of a twister had jumped down real quick. The neighbors kind of behind me didn't even have the cushions blow off of their patio chairs. I have a neighbor around the corner that keeps his trash cans along side his garage outside and they were still just standing there. When the wind started to initially pick up I went to my back patio glass door and turned on the outside light.... it was at midnight. I see the pergola start to lean a little and I was like "whoa". Then it starts to really lean and I was like "holy shit". Then the whole pergola instantly disappeared in front of my eyes and I was like "fuck me"! I ran up stairs and grabbed the most important things in my life and took them to the basement. Debbie was in Springfield overnight for work so it was just the girls and I. It also forced in about 2 gallons of water through the seals of the back sliding door in the kitchen. I had a lake of water on the kitchen floor.

Here are some pictures from the next day:

Originally Posted by S14DB

How Universal are the Viper Harnesses? Lets say I have an older model installed and want a new one with more features. Is it a easy brain swap or a whole re-wire?

If your "older" model is older than 2 years, then the new system will have different harnesses. It also depends on what model you are coming from and what model you are going to.

[whiterps13]

How is your car coming along? Or more importantly, how is that backyard doing?

Anything fun going on in Normal is this summer? LOL Its been a while.

[S14DB]

How Universal are the Viper Harnesses? Lets say I have an older model installed and want a new one with more features. Is it a easy brain swap or a whole re-wire?

[KiLLeR2001]

Do you have the detailed specifications of the 520T backup battery? I remember having the backup battery system before but it didn't last too long. I may try to conceal a lightweight drycell battery instead.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Do you have the detailed specifications of the 520T backup battery? I remember having the backup battery system before but it didn't last too long. I may try to conceal a lightweight drycell battery instead.

There is not any specs on it. I can try calling DEI tomorrow, but I'm not sure if they will have an answer.

[EnemyS15]

Dear Toby,

I would like to change all my air fittings for waste gate, bov, e- boost controller and fpr to air push lock fittings with hard lines. Got the goodies I need?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by EnemyS15

Dear Toby,

I would like to change all my air fittings for waste gate, bov, e- boost controller and fpr to air push lock fittings with hard lines. Got the goodies I need?

Nope, only AN fittings/hose or push-on fittings/hose in a -4.

Originally Posted by RB180sxChris

toby I have come to the point where i wanna upgrade the shitty stock speakers in my s14 for theres so many choices out there I really dont know what to get. Whats good and what is garbage...price is no biggie but i want somthing nice and hits hard no matter how high i put the volume it wont take a shit, not that ill put it that high but something nice speakers, amp, sub ect...hopefully you can help me out! thanks!

Do you have a budget in mind to give me a place to start? Do you also need a head unit? I would sell you Hybrid Audio speakers and an ARC Audio amplifier. If you are wanting to do a sub then I would highly suggest the ARC Audio XDi805. It will output 80 watts RMS x4 and 400 watts RMS x 1. Then simply an Alpine, ARC or JL Audio sub(s) will easily suffice.

[ZERTA RACING]

Toby,
Sorry to bother you on a sunday but I have a few questions. I bought a Viper system from you a few pages back and I finally have the time to get to work on it. I have labeled every wire so I can tie them all and know exactly where they go before the install. My questions are about the 530T and the relay for power locks and a few little wires I am having trouble finding where they go.

My final setup will be:
Viper 5904V
VSM250 GPS SmartStart
tilt sensor (507M)
door locks (451m with 524N)
window roll-up modules(530T)
trunk release(522T with relay)

First off I found this on the thread you referred me to and want to ask if these were the proper connections and if a bypass was necessary

530T Window Automation Module Wiring

H1/1 Violet- ground path motor #1 --> chassis ground
H1/2 Green- driver’s side down motor (motor side) --> driver side door blue (motor side)
H1/3 Blue- up, motor (motor side) --> driver side door green (motor side)
H1/4 Red- Constant 12V --> from battery or white at ignition harness
H1/5 Black- chassis ground --> chassis ground
H1/6 Violet/Black- ground path motor #2 --> chassis ground
H1/7 Green/Black- passenger side, down motor #2 --> passenger side door blue or red/white (motor side)?
H1/8 Blue/Black- up, motor #2 passenger side --> passenger side door green or red/black (motor side)?

H2/1 Brown- up, switch #1 (switch side) --> drivers side door green (switch side)
H2/2 White- driver side down switch #1 (switch side) --> drivers side door blue (switch side)
H2/3 Red/White (-) - auxiliary input --> connects to H2/6 white/violet on alarm
H2/4 Orange (-) - ground when armed --> connects to H1/12 orange on main alarm harness
H2/5 Grey- output during activation --> wires to relay to bypass audio, motion and tilt sensors (see relay connections below)
H2/6 Brown/Black- up, switch #2 passenger side (switch side) --> passenger side door green or red/black (switch side)?
H2/7 White/Black- down, switch #2 passenger side (switch side) --> passenger side door blue or red/white (switch side)?

Sensor Bypass Relay

85- H2/5 Grey from 530T
86- 12V (fused) from battery
87- N/A
87A- Red wire from tilt, audio and motion sensor
30- Red wire from alarm

Next is the Violet/Blk fused on the 451m where does that go?

The Blue/white on the Viper 5904V for remote start/turbo timer is that used with the smart start or just not used at all.

Also the green on the shock sensor (-) warn output where does that connect to the H2/8 Brown/Black (-) 200ma horn honk?

And lastly on the smart start itself
Grey and white wires are not used
blue/white goes to remote start on viper blue white? Guess that kind of answers one of the questions above lol.
brown to where ?(I don't have a factory alarm)
green (-) to Door lock 3 pin connector Green just spliced in?
Blue (-) to Door lock 3 pin connector Blue just spliced in?
Red/White to (-) H2/5 red/white 200ma trunk release?


Once again sorry for all the questions just want to make sure I get this right and some of the info in that thread is pretty old and the wiring harnesses have changed since then.

-Thomas

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by ZERTA RACING

Toby,
Sorry to bother you on a sunday but I have a few questions. I bought a Viper system from you a few pages back and I finally have the time to get to work on it. I have labeled every wire so I can tie them all and know exactly where they go before the install. My questions are about the 530T and the relay for power locks and a few little wires I am having trouble finding where they go.

-Thomas

As discussed I will hit you up through PM!

Originally Posted by DanielS14

before spraying SEM texture coat what do you do to prep the item your spraying to get a good adhesion?
thanks!

I clean it with MAXX SOLV or some 3M Adhesive Remover. I do not use any sort of adhesion promoter.

Originally Posted by RD_240

Toby,

So i'm wanting to add a little bass in my 2007 MDX.. was looking to get a 8" sub to replace the current factory one... then was thinking about getting a 10" JL flat sub and having it custom mounted to the rear compartment.. your thoughts or recommendations?

Installing a 10" sub in a proper custom fiberglass enclosure will FAR out perform an aftermarket 8" sub in the OEM enclosure. However, you would need to run an aftermarket amplifier to that 10" sub. So this little venture will add up quick by the time you get the sub, amp, wiring, installation of the amp and then the fiberglass enclosure.

Originally Posted by fyneyoungstunna

I understand you do custom clusters?
Do you do clusters for other cars?
More directly I have a Festiva that has a front lit cluster. I was told a custom was the only way to go to get a backlit cluster. I dont want it to look like a spaceship just a nice mellow glow that i can drive with. I would like to change the face to white with orange/red font without having it look like a pep boys job

Second question is it only accomodates 4-4" speakers so is therr an optimal setup/brand to give it the sound quality of a newer vehicle?

The type of cluster work I do is completely gutting the OEM cluster and then retrofitting aftermarket gauges into the OEM housing. That way the whole thing bolts right back in without any modifications. You would need to wire all of the new gauges and their respective sensors, but the physical aspect of it will be a perfect fit. I am a Speedhut dealer which I can build you gauges to fit just about any attribute that you want. So here is an example of a white faced tach with red font and it illuminates red at night. I chose a black bezel for a clean look. They have several bezels to choose from, different style pointers, pointer illumination, font style, face color, illumination color, tick style, graphics, custom text, etc.

This is day time:



This is night time:



As for the 4" speakers, Hybrid Audio Mirus series all the way! They run $109 shipped per pair.

[RB180sxChris]

toby I have come to the point where i wanna upgrade the shitty stock speakers in my s14 for theres so many choices out there I really dont know what to get. Whats good and what is garbage...price is no biggie but i want somthing nice and hits hard no matter how high i put the volume it wont take a shit, not that ill put it that high but something nice speakers, amp, sub ect...hopefully you can help me out! thanks!

[DanielS14]

before spraying SEM texture coat what do you do to prep the item your spraying to get a good adhesion?
thanks!

[RD_240]

Toby,

So i'm wanting to add a little bass in my 2007 MDX.. was looking to get a 8" sub to replace the current factory one... then was thinking about getting a 10" JL flat sub and having it custom mounted to the rear compartment.. your thoughts or recommendations?

[fyneyoungstunna]

I understand you do custom clusters?
Do you do clusters for other cars?
More directly I have a Festiva that has a front lit cluster. I was told a custom was the only way to go to get a backlit cluster. I dont want it to look like a spaceship just a nice mellow glow that i can drive with. I would like to change the face to white with orange/red font without having it look like a pep boys job

Second question is it only accomodates 4-4" speakers so is therr an optimal setup/brand to give it the sound quality of a newer vehicle?

[XxHybridx]

Toby, I am in quite some trouble lol. Went to Vegas and I lost my 2-way remote you sold me that I had on my keys, along with all my keys . My question is, the package you sent me had a spare remote, but I never activated it. Would I be able to activate it even though my car alarm is armed. And is there instructions in the manual on how to activate it, haven't tackled it yet. Also, what options do I have to get the remote replaced. Incase it doesn't come up. Calling all the lost and found places. Thanks!

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by XxHybridx

Toby, I am in quite some trouble lol. Went to Vegas and I lost my 2-way remote you sold me that I had on my keys, along with all my keys . My question is, the package you sent me had a spare remote, but I never activated it. Would I be able to activate it even though my car alarm is armed. And is there instructions in the manual on how to activate it, haven't tackled it yet. Also, what options do I have to get the remote replaced. Incase it doesn't come up. Calling all the lost and found places. Thanks!

Do you happen to know the model # of the system you bought from me?

The secondary remote should come already programmed for the system.... so it should just work out of the box. If not you will need to unlock the doors, the alarm will go off, turn the ignition on, turn the ignition off, then push the button on the antenna once. The alarm should turn off.

Originally Posted by fyneyoungstunna

That is actually exactly what I'm looking for. My only tiny thing would be the orange to yellow bars when you get into the high rpms. Tomorrow morning I will post a pic of my stock cluster so you can get an idea of space that it has to work with (its rather tiny). Just for shits and giggles what is the chance of an anolog clock with a face to match, the block/recktangle style of the older cars.

Is an amp recommended with those speakers? Do I order them through you?

Yeah, just PM/email me some pics of the cluster and we can go from there. Speedhut would have a 2-1/16" analog clock to match whatever gauge configuration you come up with, but not a rectangular one.



I of course always recommend an amplifier for speakers. The most common amplifier I sell is 80 watts RMS x 4. Considering that head units are at most 20 watts RMS x 4, an external amplifier makes a HUGE improvement. Yes, you would order all of your audio needs through me.... that's what my business is. The interior work that I do and gauges etc are just things I do for the heck of it.

[fyneyoungstunna]

That is actually exactly what I'm looking for. My only tiny thing would be the orange to yellow bars when you get into the high rpms. Tomorrow morning I will post a pic of my stock cluster so you can get an idea of space that it has to work with (its rather tiny). Just for shits and giggles what is the chance of an anolog clock with a face to match, the block/recktangle style of the older cars.

Is an amp recommended with those speakers? Do I order them through you?

[XxHybridx]

Ah ok. I haven't even put the battery in the remote so I've never tried to use it. So should work right when I put the battery in. And it was the viper 3303 that I bought.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by XxHybridx

Ah ok. I haven't even put the battery in the remote so I've never tried to use it. So should work right when I put the battery in. And it was the viper 3303 that I bought.

The remote is shipped with the battery already in it... so it should just work right out of the box.