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Old 03-18-2008, 01:14 PM   #61
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Old 03-18-2008, 01:38 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Silverstreek View Post
ok, i know this is a really old thread, but i did a search and didn't see an answer to my question. i'm just wondering, i bought a open diff of a local guy (just the diff, not the entire pumpkin, so no ring gear, caps, axles, shims, etc). i sent it to blu808 and had it welded. now what i want to do is take off my stock pumpkin, pull out the stock open diff and put in the welded one. so what would i need besides a new cover gasket, gasket sealer and thread lock? will the shim(s)/spacer (if there even are any) from the stocker work with this welded one? and should i get any other parts (like do the axles have a seal and if so, should i get new ones since i'll have them out). i've swapped complete rear ends before, but never messed with disassembling and reassembling one. i really don't want to and don't really have any way to take it somewhere and have somebody else do this. i'd like to do it myself, never gonna learn if i don't try.
First, why would are replacing the welded diff with an open one?

Second, if you are getting an open diff why not leave it in the pumpkin it's in and just swap the whole thing. Swapping internals is going to be a whole lot more work.

Third, if you do for some reason just my the internals of an open diff and do want to swap internals, that is not going to effect the outside of the pumpkin at all.

I hope I understood what you were saying and answered your question.
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Old 03-18-2008, 04:50 PM   #63
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oh, no see i bought an open diff (just the internal part) and had it welded by luke. now i'm wanting to put it in my stock pumpkin. not replace my welded diff with an open.
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Old 03-18-2008, 05:33 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Silverstreek View Post
oh, no see i bought an open diff (just the internal part) and had it welded by luke. now i'm wanting to put it in my stock pumpkin. not replace my welded diff with an open.
That won't change anything on the outside of the pumpkin. Just swap internals, and put the diff back in that way it was. Done.
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:30 PM   #65
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follow the FSM instructions for re installation of the internals in regards to torque specs and rotational specs of the actual diff.
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:31 PM   #66
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great, sounds good. and there's no seals or anything like that i need to pick up right? with the exception of a new gasket, gasket maker and thread lock.
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:34 PM   #67
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when i reassembled mine i replaced the two bearings, rubber seals on the output shafts, and the diff seal
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:46 PM   #68
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cool, thanks alot guys. i'll let ya know how it turns out.
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Old 03-18-2008, 08:07 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Mlogue84 View Post
You're right heat does expand things, but when metal cools it will be smaller than before.
Um... That doesn't make any sense. By that logic, after 150k miles, my KA should look like a Geo Metro motor... if it shrinks down smaller every time it cools.
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Old 03-20-2008, 12:48 AM   #70
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When you heat metal with a torch to the point when it's red hot and then cool it rapidly, it will shrink. It is commonly used in repairing body damage on cars, where metal has become weak. See this video as a reference on how and when metal shrinks. It's not logic, It's science. Thanks, I lol'd at the metro joke.

http://www.youtube.com/v/mptiiRLEJs0&hl=en
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