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Old 08-21-2012, 09:07 PM   #11401
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[QUOTE=kingkilburn;4863437]I could be completely mistaken but I think that is a shim from a bucket.

thank you sir, after googling bucket shim that is what it is.
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:48 PM   #11402
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hey guys got a newbie question here.
Im currently trying to get all the pieces rounded up for my suspension system.
So far I have kyb struts w/ rsr springs, cusco sways bars and cusco tension rods.
my plans are to have a street aggressive ride that can handle some track time when needed.

So with all that being addressed, what do you guys think i should do to top off the rest of my suspension, i have an s13 btw.

first things first, im ditching the springs for a nice set of coilovers, apexi s1 sound pretty nice.
as for the arms, keeping both lower arms stock and i was planning on swapping the RUCA, traction link, and toe link. alongside with a pack of energy suspension bushings.

i might get some aftermarket tie rods and maybe replace the lower arms later in the future but for now just looking for a clean aggressive street tune, any help? thanks!
ps- should i go with SPC or isis for the 3 arms? ive heard good things on both.

Last edited by epedomic; 08-21-2012 at 09:49 PM.. Reason: forgot to mention brands
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:56 PM   #11403
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Quote:
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ps- should i go with SPC or isis for the 3 arms? ive heard good things on both.
Neither. Go Stance, PBM, Cusco, SPL, Fortune...
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:14 AM   #11404
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ok, I started my fresh SR redtop swap today, and I hear this knocking when I give it some gas, thinking it was rod knock, I was really pissed. but I took a step back and asked my buddies if they knew what this was, pulling off the valve cover of the sr, I noticed my timing is a bit advanced, like the cams were sitting a bit advanced, could this cause the knocking? any help appreciated thanks.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:42 PM   #11405
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Im positive this is the idler sprocket, i just want to make sure? can anyone confirm this for me.

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Old 08-22-2012, 08:09 PM   #11406
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Wondering, what could possibly cause an axle to blow up, essentially, from everyday driving?

My old axle tore the CV boot not too long ago and would cause a lot of clunking noises at speeds above 65mph. Anyways, maybe it was the poor choice of replacement, but I decided to go get a remanned axle from AutoZone to replace the entire axle. Well 6 weeks later that axle decided to take a shit on me today.

Was cruising on the freeway and noticed slight vibrations coming from the rear end on deceleration. Thought it was funny, and when I tried to 'debunk' the vibrations with some higher than normal RPM driving, the axle got completely destroyed. I haven't gotten under to take a look at it yet, but it looks as if it has at least gotten separated from the diff side and the cv boot shot out with all the grease all over the exhaust, etc.

Just wondering why this might have happened so soon? On what seems to be normal, daily driving. Could having the car be too low affect this?
Bump .
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:35 PM   #11407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001 View Post
Neither. Go Stance, PBM, Cusco, SPL, Fortune...
right, those are all very good brands but from what ive heard the isis arm package do their job just fine and at an incredible price.
this is my daily and really just looking for a good street setup but yeah man ill definitely look into those later on.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:44 PM   #11408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejbluth View Post

So, should I replace the CAS?
And should I worry about anything since my engine rolled over? J

Sorry, just new and kinda paranoid-ish.
If the pickup wheel isn' bent, just get a cover for the CAS and you'll be good to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Driftwurks View Post
Did I clean my IACV correctly? I marked the spots where I used CRC Intake Cleaner and Q-tips.
Any 'dirty' parts simply need cleaned. Seems like you have the basics covered.



Quote:
Originally Posted by epedomic View Post
hey guys got a newbie question here.
Im currently trying to get all the pieces rounded up for my suspension system.
So far I have kyb struts w/ rsr springs, cusco sways bars and cusco tension rods.
my plans are to have a street aggressive ride that can handle some track time when needed.

So with all that being addressed, what do you guys think i should do to top off the rest of my suspension, i have an s13 btw.

first things first, im ditching the springs for a nice set of coilovers, apexi s1 sound pretty nice.
as for the arms, keeping both lower arms stock and i was planning on swapping the RUCA, traction link, and toe link. alongside with a pack of energy suspension bushings.

i might get some aftermarket tie rods and maybe replace the lower arms later in the future but for now just looking for a clean aggressive street tune, any help? thanks!
ps- should i go with SPC or isis for the 3 arms? ive heard good things on both.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001 View Post
Neither. Go Stance, PBM, Cusco, SPL, Fortune...
What's wrong with SPC? They make a quality, USA built part. Super beefy stuff with real world testing


Quote:
Originally Posted by epedomic View Post
right, those are all very good brands but from what ive heard the isis arm package do their job just fine and at an incredible price.
this is my daily and really just looking for a good street setup but yeah man ill definitely look into those later on.
The cheaper the arm, the cheaper the parts. Sure the ISIS parts may work, but you need to understand and accept that they will not last forever.

With that said Enjuku offers a great warranty forthem!
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:11 AM   #11409
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Im getting a headache searching for wheels. I know what size i want, can somebody help me find a better way to look? most websites only let you search by diameter but not the width as well. Any tips on websites to check out? Or a good search tip? ex. some good key words to search with, or some place with a list of good online wheel sellers. anything at all helps.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:28 AM   #11410
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I got a vert not too long ago and swapped the KA, tranny, lower harness, and engine harness from my old coupe. The tach, speedo and coolant temp never worked on my old coupe. I drove the vert home on a different ka, engine harness, tranny, but the lower harness wasn't plugged in. Everything except the speedo worked on the vert, until I swapped my stuff over from the coupe. Now it's just the same as the coupe. So pretty much, where does the tach signal come from? Is it possible I have cut wires some where in my engine harness? My engine harness is un touched, and the one that was in the vert seemed pretty hacked. Anyone have an idea what's wrong?
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:57 AM   #11411
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s14 has a hub size of 66, can a wheel with a hub size 73.1 fit? i read somewhere that the wheel has to be or equal to or greater size, are any modifications/extra parts needed for this to fit?
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:22 AM   #11412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Encore View Post
s14 has a hub size of 66, can a wheel with a hub size 73.1 fit? i read somewhere that the wheel has to be or equal to or greater size, are any modifications/extra parts needed for this to fit?
They will fit, you will need hubcentric spacers though to make it work. Tire rack or similar sell them.
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:20 PM   #11413
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My S14 has developed a nasty shaking when taking off from a complete stop. (I would describe it as a shuttering that goes away eventually when I get going) The ONLY time it shakes/shutters is when I'm taking off from a complete stop. I suspect this is from a bad transmission mount but was wondering if anyone had came across a similar issue.

Thanks in advance,
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:54 PM   #11414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
If the pickup wheel isn' bent, just get a cover for the CAS and you'll be good to go.



Any 'dirty' parts simply need cleaned. Seems like you have the basics covered.







What's wrong with SPC? They make a quality, USA built part. Super beefy stuff with real world testing




The cheaper the arm, the cheaper the parts. Sure the ISIS parts may work, but you need to understand and accept that they will not last forever.

With that said Enjuku offers a great warranty forthem!
ok, im stumped here guys. i need your opinions on whether to go with isis or spc for the arm links (ruca,traction,toe).
ive heard some great reviews for isis and i know it will definitely be suitable for my daily driving conditions, but as said before. cheaper the price, cheaper the quality(sometimes not true) but in this case, im not sure if i should save up just a little more and go with spc. will it be worth it?? thanks.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:19 PM   #11415
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quick dumb question, on s13's is the ac box under the dash required for the blower to function correctly? ( defrost, and other vents ect) or is there a way to patch the gap?
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:52 PM   #11416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epedomic View Post
ok, im stumped here guys. i need your opinions on whether to go with isis or spc for the arm links (ruca,traction,toe).
ive heard some great reviews for isis and i know it will definitely be suitable for my daily driving conditions, but as said before. cheaper the price, cheaper the quality(sometimes not true) but in this case, im not sure if i should save up just a little more and go with spc. will it be worth it?? thanks.

The answer to that question does not really have a '100%' answer.

The easy answer is to run a quality arm, and SPL is just that. Perfect fitment, quality bearings, nice parts etc etc...

Now for some it's 'too much' for their pocketbooks. And with that said, in comes many other options. IMO if you're not going to buy 'the best' (or very good) then you may as well run with the cheap poppular stuff, as you now have warranty ability (to a degree).

A good buddy of mine has ISIS arms on his street car and they really do work well. Granted it's not a high mileage driver, nor is it a everyday car, but it has held up for him now over 2 years.

I've run SPC stuff on my personal cars, and have friends who run them as well. Quality part, however they use rubber bushings in the arms. For some, this is great. No chance for a bearing failing, no chance for a rusty rod end...but some want sphericals. Truthfully, if you're gonna just daily the car, and want a nice ride...the SPC is a nice choice for that reason as it's a adjustable OEM type part. It may not score you points at the car show, but it's better than the cheapest stuff.

I know I know, confusing answer In the end it's on you. I'd personally suggest SPL regardless, but if you're just driving back and forth, then go with the SPC (so long as you're ok with a rubber bushing).
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Old 08-24-2012, 02:11 AM   #11417
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is it possible to fail a smog test because I'm running 91 octane in my s13? today in one of my automotive classes I learned how sometimes in an older car 91 octane does not benefit me because it burns faster (I failed of too many hydrocarbons) and my teacher mentioned if you do this you would even be able to smell gasoline and I just noticed when I got the car and put 87 no smell but now that I'm putting 91 I do notice from time to time a gasoline scent.... any input would be nice and I'm getting it diagnosed tomorrow hopefully
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Old 08-24-2012, 02:30 AM   #11418
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ran over a speedbump under 5 mph at school and now my radio, hud,and digi-speedo are now off and wont turn on?
everything else is fine climate light turns on, e-light button turns on, and all the lights on my cluster turns on rpm tach works
only thing wrong is HUD, DIGI-speedo, and radio dont work im not trying to do anything till i get some info any help be good thx

Last edited by lbogkush; 08-24-2012 at 04:32 AM..
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:47 AM   #11419
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can anyone get me the dimensions of the s14 diff bushing... i need to know how tall and wide the shoulder is on it. it would be greatly appreciated
Bump...please help
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:53 AM   #11420
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hey quick question. is there an easy way to pop the trunk in an s14 if the trunk release cable is broken and the key won't work?
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:08 PM   #11421
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Originally Posted by lbogkush View Post
ran over a speedbump under 5 mph at school and now my radio, hud,and digi-speedo are now off and wont turn on?
everything else is fine climate light turns on, e-light button turns on, and all the lights on my cluster turns on rpm tach works
only thing wrong is HUD, DIGI-speedo, and radio dont work im not trying to do anything till i get some info any help be good thx
What suspension are you on? You might have rubbed the fender harness. Check it, wrap any exposed wires, then replace the fuses you likely blew out.
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:10 PM   #11422
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So can anyone tell me where the tach gets its signal from?
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:42 PM   #11423
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What suspension are you on? You might have rubbed the fender harness. Check it, wrap any exposed wires, then replace the fuses you likely blew out.
yea thx for the help bro FIXED it was my audio fuse 10A wierd how if my radio fuse pop and the hud and speedo turns off and what does the hud and speedo has to do with audio fuse anyways SMH
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Old 08-24-2012, 02:22 PM   #11424
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My S14 has developed a nasty shaking when taking off from a complete stop. (I would describe it as a shuttering that goes away eventually when I get going) The ONLY time it shakes/shutters is when I'm taking off from a complete stop. I suspect this is from a bad transmission mount but was wondering if anyone had came across a similar issue.

Thanks in advance,
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:11 PM   #11425
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diff/rear sub frame bushangs
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:32 PM   #11426
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Help!!!! I'm about to get the front hub of a 94 j30. Any model j30 front hub will fit my s13? I know about the bearing and relocate the retainer. Thanks in advance!!
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:34 PM   #11427
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Im positive this is the idler sprocket, i just want to make sure? can anyone confirm this for me.

can anyone verify if this is the idle sprocket? thanks.
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:29 PM   #11428
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Originally Posted by codyace View Post
The answer to that question does not really have a '100%' answer.

The easy answer is to run a quality arm, and SPL is just that. Perfect fitment, quality bearings, nice parts etc etc...

Now for some it's 'too much' for their pocketbooks. And with that said, in comes many other options. IMO if you're not going to buy 'the best' (or very good) then you may as well run with the cheap poppular stuff, as you now have warranty ability (to a degree).

A good buddy of mine has ISIS arms on his street car and they really do work well. Granted it's not a high mileage driver, nor is it a everyday car, but it has held up for him now over 2 years.

I've run SPC stuff on my personal cars, and have friends who run them as well. Quality part, however they use rubber bushings in the arms. For some, this is great. No chance for a bearing failing, no chance for a rusty rod end...but some want sphericals. Truthfully, if you're gonna just daily the car, and want a nice ride...the SPC is a nice choice for that reason as it's a adjustable OEM type part. It may not score you points at the car show, but it's better than the cheapest stuff.

I know I know, confusing answer In the end it's on you. I'd personally suggest SPL regardless, but if you're just driving back and forth, then go with the SPC (so long as you're ok with a rubber bushing).
thanks man, yeah i think id rather just save up a little more and go with spc. also wouldnt i just be able to replace those bushings with polyurethane or solid ones? im planning on replacing the suspension bushings soon.
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Old 08-25-2012, 02:05 AM   #11429
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some body please help!!!(: does anybody know if the grey plug that plugs into the tps is supposed to be hot? (i have a 1996 auto s14) so the tps has 2 plugs. (1 grey , 1 brown) the car starts, but it starts bogging and sputtering at 2k and above, and idles fine. any help would be appericiated
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:22 AM   #11430
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Does anybody happen to know what year, and trim level the 16x9 +0 offset starion/conquest wheels came on?
Still looking for an answer to this. I work for LKQ and there's a lot of starions in their junkyard database, just wanna make sure I get the right wheels since I won't be able to see/measure them first.
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