Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Kassroth]

Is it possible to pull the engine out of an S14 without disconnecting any of the AC refrigerant lines? Can I simply disconnect the drive belt and remove the compressor mounting bolts then leave in place? Car can not be driven in current state so I can't get the refrigerant vacuumed out. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
K

[Marc240]

PIC request or pdf/instructions.

I got a CXRacing FMIC for my S13 sr. I got the four brackets that are provided with the kit. I cant seem too figure out how to mount the intercooler. i dont have the instructions, didnt come with any. In any of the pictures it doesnt show how or where to mount the brackets. I ordered the "new" style, if anyone is running this pictures would greatly help
cxracing.com: FMIC Intercooler Piping Kit + BOV 240SX S14 S15 SR20DET,Tube & Fin Intercooler

[e1_griego]

^Sent you a txt Marc.

Is it possible to pull the engine out of an S14 without disconnecting any of the AC refrigerant lines? Can I simply disconnect the drive belt and remove the compressor mounting bolts then leave in place? Car can not be driven in current state so I can't get the refrigerant vacuumed out. Any advice is appreciated.

Yeah, just unbolt the compressor from the block and leave it in the car, then pull the motor. Like you said.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Kassroth

Is it possible to pull the engine out of an S14 without disconnecting any of the AC refrigerant lines? Can I simply disconnect the drive belt and remove the compressor mounting bolts then leave in place? Car can not be driven in current state so I can't get the refrigerant vacuumed out. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
K

Yes, I unbolted the compressor from the engine and zip tied it to the frame rail and sway bar. Then installed it on the SR with CodyAce's brackets.

Held against the framerail it never got in the way of the pull or drop. The compressor was heavy. So, I did need someone to hold it from the top while I aligned it back up and bolted it back in from the bottom.

[that_one_coupe]

I did a 5 speed swap on my DOHC S13 KADE. Got everything from a SOHC KAE. Since the swap, my car vibrates a little loud inside the cabin. Friends have told be it sounds like I have a driveshaft issue. My car is a 93 s13 and I'm not sure if it came w/ABS (although I don't see why it wouldn't given that it's a 93). I'm wondering if getting a ABS driveshaft will solve my problem. Any suggestions?

[I'm Redline]

Boostin,
For a car to corner safely, the outer wheel needs to turn faster than the inner wheel. This is because it has to travel a farther distance. This is the action that a differential allows…one wheel to rotate at a different speed than the other wheel. If there were no differential, both wheels are forced to rotate at the same speed. This causes one tire to skid or hop along the pavement and if the traction won’t allow the wheel to skid, the axle will twist and untwist just like a torsion bar. This is very stressful on the axles and can ultimately lead to failure of the axle…as in snap! And since you have no differential action with a spool, even following bends in the road can pitch the rearend into side-slip.
Yeah, I get you, sideslip(aka drifting) is fun, however, the condition on the axles will sooner or later cause FAILURE, or the negligent state of the car's diff will cause you to hit someone(This is NOT an accident, it is negligence outright because you are forcing the situation)

NismoK,
I would agree that all things being equal, displacement wins, however, as one who owns a 1250cc Sportster(76ci) with a hair over 110hp, my highly tuned engine and bike smoke bikes with more displacement(things NOT being equal). State of tune is the big equalizer. Weight and lack of weight is an equalizer. Forced induction is the greatest equalizer we know here, with the case in point the Fe block KA vs the Al block SR Turbo.
A KA24DE-T(KA-T) will make great power, however, it will never equal performance of the smaller displacement, highly tuned SR20 without a lot of hard work, large expense, and tons of labor(bore, stroke, deck, ITB, Turbo) Do all that work to a KA and it will smoke an SR20...until the guy with the SR does the same thing. At that point, with an Fe block, you lose the battle by having more weight and a lower hp:weight ratio

[Sleepy_Steve]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Boostin,
For a car to corner safely, the outer wheel needs to turn faster than the inner wheel. This is because it has to travel a farther distance. This is the action that a differential allows…one wheel to rotate at a different speed than the other wheel. If there were no differential, both wheels are forced to rotate at the same speed. This causes one tire to skid or hop along the pavement and if the traction won’t allow the wheel to skid, the axle will twist and untwist just like a torsion bar. This is very stressful on the axles and can ultimately lead to failure of the axle…as in snap! And since you have no differential action with a spool, even following bends in the road can pitch the rearend into side-slip.
Yeah, I get you, sideslip(aka drifting) is fun, however, the condition on the axles will sooner or later cause FAILURE, or the negligent state of the car's diff will cause you to hit someone(This is NOT an accident, it is negligence outright because you are forcing the situation)

Its not THAT bad on the axles. Boostin's car and my own car had no ill effects from our welded diffs, and have not had catastrophic axle failure. Nor has anyone in our local area with a welded. 2-ways load the axles in the same way FYI. My stock acura TL is MUCH harder on it's axles than my 240 will ever be.

Other than some tire noise while parking, control-ability isn't that bad with a welded. Esp for daily driving. Yes it will force the car to perpetually be in a mild over-steer or under-steer state, but that probably helps most drivers finally figure out just how important weight transfer is on an S-chassis.

[that_one_coupe]

Anybody wanna answer my question?

[95s14silvia]

This probably isnt the right place to post this but since it will be going on a car I guess i can make a case that it is somewhat technical. Anyways my question is this. What body kit is on Matt Powers green s14, the red one, and what kit is on the other car?? Please let me know!

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by that_one_coupe

I did a 5 speed swap on my DOHC S13 KADE. Got everything from a SOHC KAE. Since the swap, my car vibrates a little loud inside the cabin. Friends have told be it sounds like I have a driveshaft issue. My car is a 93 s13 and I'm not sure if it came w/ABS (although I don't see why it wouldn't given that it's a 93). I'm wondering if getting a ABS driveshaft will solve my problem. Any suggestions?

If you had ABS the diff is longer so the drive-shaft is shorter. You should see the sensor on the passenger side of the diff.

If you used a stock driveshaft the wrong one would hit the flange and be to long or come up short. Single piece driveshaft would stick out of the trans or be to long.

The vibration is at idle or when accelerating? Where do you hear/feel it coming from?

[Sir]

Originally Posted by that_one_coupe

My car is a 93 s13 and I'm not sure if it came w/ABS (although I don't see why it wouldn't given that it's a 93).

Do you see a giant brick with a bunch of brake lines coming out of it inside your engine bay?

If not, than you don't have abs.
As ^^^^ mentioned make sure your drive shaft matches the diff

Sent from my Nexus 7

[Exotic Drift]

What tire can I run on my 17x9 + 22 with a 4 inch lip. ? All four corners same size
Ima be running megan track coilovers. Its an s14.

I want to run as much tire as possible both front and rear. With as little stretch as possible

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Exotic Drift

What tire can I run on my 17x9 + 22 with a 4 inch lip. ? All four corners same size
Ima be running megan track coilovers. Its an s14.

I want to run as much tire as possible both front and rear. With as little stretch as possible

245/40-17. May rub a little lock to lock.

[terrence]

I've tried looking and can't find a definitive answer on this, but is there a difference between s13 and s14 sr20det ignitor chips?

[Fracture]

There's a type of Bride seat that comes in a solid dark blue fabric. They look like an older model seat and are recline-able. Any one know which seats I'm talking about?

[Vadim's13]

I need help choosing betwin EM blue or MSII?
Built ka-t
Crower 272 cams and all valvetrain
Ported head
HP goal 350-400 whp
I'm really looking in to MS
Idk if emb would support it
Plz pm post or txt me 6613019717
Thanks!
V

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

[yetijeff]

Newb question (already searched) how can u tell the different between and sohc gauge cluster and a dohc just by looking at them out of the car. I have three I was gonna post for sale but I'm sure an obvious question would be if they're dual or single (if there is one), and wanted to figure out before I post them. Thanks in advance...

[Wake]

DOHC redlines at 7k

SOHC is 6.5

[yetijeff]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

DOHC redlines at 7k

SOHC is 6.5

Awesome thank u.

[rustysx]

Originally Posted by 95s14silvia

This probably isnt the right place to post this but since it will be going on a car I guess i can make a case that it is somewhat technical. Anyways my question is this. What body kit is on Matt Powers green s14, the red one, and what kit is on the other car?? Please let me know!

the red car and powers car on BN Sports and im pretty sure Daniels car is on bn as well

[revsx]

I recently bought a set of used Toe Rods and RUCAS from a buddy.
On the joint side of them there are little cylindrical inserts. There are two on one toe rod and 1 on each of the other toe rod and both rucas.
I was just curious what they are used for, if they are necessary (I am assuming they are), and if I could new ones from Megan still or have new ones made?
Thank You.

[iVanRoz]

Does anyone with energy suspension poly bushing have a squeaking/ croaking problem? They were installed by previous owner. Not sure if he didn't grease them.

[Sir]

Yes you need them. OEM bushings are wide and the rod end would just flop around in the space without the spacers

Sent from my Nexus 7

[The Dude]

Originally Posted by iVanRoz

Does anyone with energy suspension poly bushing have a squeaking/ croaking problem? They were installed by previous owner. Not sure if he didn't grease them.

Not uncommon when it's cold. You should grease them often if they have zerk fittings. If not, then take them out and grease them.

Formula 5 Prelube | Energy Suspension Parts

[iVanRoz]

Originally Posted by The Dude

Not uncommon when it's cold. You should grease them often if they have zerk fittings. If not, then take them out and grease them.

Formula 5 Prelube | Energy Suspension Parts

Yeah I forgot to mention they're the subframe bushings. I did so digging and found out that if they make noise they problem didn't get greased on install. Well I guess is time to grease them.

[The Dude]

Originally Posted by revsx

I recently bought a set of used Toe Rods and RUCAS from a buddy.
On the joint side of them there are little cylindrical inserts. There are two on one toe rod and 1 on each of the other toe rod and both rucas.
I was just curious what they are used for, if they are necessary (I am assuming they are), and if I could new ones from Megan still or have new ones made?
Thank You.

I'm assuming you're talking about misalignment spacers. Yes, you should have two of them per RUCA/toe rod, and don't install them without both of the spacers.

Your friend is either a dick or an idiot (or maybe both). Depending on what brand they are, you MIGHT be able to get new ones. Otherwise just get completely new parts.

[Vadim's13]

[QUOTE=Vadim's13;5167774]I need help choosing betwin EM blue or MSII?
Built ka-t
Crower 272 cams and all valvetrain
Ported head
HP goal 350-400 whp
I'm really looking in to MS
Idk if emb would support it
Plz pm post or txt me 6613019717
Thanks!
V


No one???

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by 95s14silvia

This probably isnt the right place to post this but since it will be going on a car I guess i can make a case that it is somewhat technical. Anyways my question is this. What body kit is on Matt Powers green s14, the red one, and what kit is on the other car?? Please let me know!

The dark green one is Vertex/Car Make T&E
The light green one is the same
The red car is BN Sports

Originally Posted by Fracture

There's a type of Bride seat that comes in a solid dark blue fabric. They look like an older model seat and are recline-able. Any one know which seats I'm talking about?

Bride Brix 1 Bride Ergo 1

those? if there isn't the gradiation pattern on the seat then the owner could have changed out the pads.

[revsx]

Originally Posted by The Dude

I'm assuming you're talking about misalignment spacers. Yes, you should have two of them per RUCA/toe rod, and don't install them without both of the spacers.

Your friend is either a dick or an idiot (or maybe both). Depending on what brand they are, you MIGHT be able to get new ones. Otherwise just get completely new parts.

Ugh I guess I will have to email megan about it cause I have no idea where else I would find them. I can't remember if they were all on there when he sold them to me as it was quite a while ago.

Thanks you for helping me out!

[The Dude]

Originally Posted by revsx

Ugh I guess I will have to email megan about it cause I have no idea where else I would find them. I can't remember if they were all on there when he sold them to me as it was quite a while ago.

Thanks you for helping me out!

If the arms you have are Megan then I have misalignment spacers for the traction and toe arms from a project I did a while ago. I have no idea what size the Megan RUCA misalignment spacers are, but you are welcome to have the ones I have as I will never use them. Just PM me.