Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Konster]

Quick question.


Can S13 power folding mirrors be wired to the ignition so when I turn the car on they unfold and fold when I turn it off?

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by Extortionist

Help would be much appreciated. My S14 creaks and groans (almost sounds like grinding) like crazy while stopped. The noise changes alot with steering input, and sometimes it feels like the power steering isnt working while I'm stopped. If you turn the wheel and mess with it enough you can sometimes get it to be quiet. Otherwise, most or all of the noise goes away while driving.
Any ideas what this is? The power steering pump has been replaced already.

I'm going to guess the ball joint for the squeaking. The lack of power steering sounds to me like a whole different problem.

Originally Posted by hOngsterr

haha i was in your shoes with a HLSD and VLSD. its the diff itself.
open diff you can see this without the welds,

Damn, only a small patch of weld on the teeth? All the welded diffs I've bought have a metal plate welded in on all 4 sides of it on both sides of the gear set.

[89hatchman]

I have solid subframe bushings that I'm looking at installing tomorrow. I've seen poly bushings installed and the guys leave the metal collar in the subframe. Since I'm going with solid bushings I beat those out right? Nothing but a clear cylinder to install the bushing in? With the lip on the bottom of the subframe?

[Extortionist]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

I'm going to guess the ball joint for the squeaking. The lack of power steering sounds to me like a whole different problem.

What does it sound like it might be? Also, I wouldn't call it a squeak by any means. Its more of a rattle, or almost a grind. And it absolutely varies with steering wheel input.

EDIT: It sounds pretty much just like this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3yAlDjliLs
Timing chain or power steering?
I didn't think it was the timing chain due to the fact that if you play with the steering wheel enough you can almost completely eliminate that noise. Also the noise is completely gone while driving anywhere over 5 mph, does that rule anything out?

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

Damn, only a small patch of weld on the teeth? All the welded diffs I've bought have a metal plate welded in on all 4 sides of it on both sides of the gear set.

seems like overkill to me, but other people have ran the 4 welds in that photo i provided and works fine.

[DashS13]

did an one ever figure out this sr20det hestiation/boging/bucking around 2500-3000 rpm issue? used the search and evryone seems to think its caused by almost 5 different things

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Extortionist

What does it sound like it might be? Also, I wouldn't call it a squeak by any means. Its more of a rattle, or almost a grind. And it absolutely varies with steering wheel input.

EDIT: It sounds pretty much just like this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3yAlDjliLs
Timing chain or power steering?
I didn't think it was the timing chain due to the fact that if you play with the steering wheel enough you can almost completely eliminate that noise. Also the noise is completely gone while driving anywhere over 5 mph, does that rule anything out?

That video sounds like chain

Originally Posted by DashS13

did an one ever figure out this sr20det hestiation/boging/bucking around 2500-3000 rpm issue? used the search and evryone seems to think its caused by almost 5 different things

That's because it can be like 10 different things. Start ruling stuff out

[Extortionist]

Originally Posted by dev71893

That video sounds like chain

How is that even possible though?

I doubt timing chain noise would go away while driving

But more importantly if it was the chain i don't think it could possibly change so much and even almost completely go away sometimes with steering wheel input(when parked). Right?

Would you buy a 240 that was making that noise?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3yAlDjliLs

[conrad_s13.5]

Hows the power steering feel?
The pump could just be shit

[e1_griego]

I think you're the guy that posted this on reddit.

Chain noise can go away with higher rpm. Usually you can just pull the upper timing chain guide and get it to be quiet altogether (or sometimes you have to pull the side guide, too --- google the DIY procedure, it's been well documented).

[Extortionist]

Originally Posted by conrad_s13.5

Hows the power steering feel?
The pump could just be shit

The power steering doesnt really work. I just didn't think the pump was capable of making those noises

[240boi115]

im in trouble guys... (well not really) when i drive my car it starts to smell like gas. not burning gas either like straight gas from the pump. ive checked my fuel lines and they are fine as well al my gas tank and the area in the trunk were the fuel pump is and no luck.. another weird thing is it wont smell like this if its been sitting on idle or reved a bit. just when ive been driving it 0.0. by the way this is on a 90 s13 hatch all stock sohc KA

[89hatchman]

Does this GT2871r turbo come with a built in restrictor?

Garrett GT2871R-472560-15-28R GT2871R-472560-15 Turbo Dual Ball Bearing (GT28R Upgrade) Opts

I have heard that some GT turbo's do, I've heard that none do. The website says absolutely nothing about a restrictor built in or even needing one. I have a .04 or something restrictor that I can run if it does need one. If not, I have a regular fitting.

I just don't want to run 2 restrictors and potentially starve the turbo of oil.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by hOngsterr

seems like overkill to me, but other people have ran the 4 welds in that photo i provided and works fine.

Now I cannot speak to welding diff's, but I CAN speak to welding all kinds of metal.
As long as the welds penetrates deep enough, they will not break. The four welds work in concert with one another to lock the diff, not a great idea for the street, but fine for drifting or drag racing. They also offer enough strength to do the job.
My guess for the metal plate technique is it would hold greater torque amounts than the four smaller welds, kinda like the Stage I and Stage II clutch discs. One works for say 350'#, the other holds to 450'#

[Nikzilla]

Hi guys.

I'm trying to learn about volumetric efficiencies and reading compressor maps and such.

Could someone give me MAF data for a stock S13 SR20DET with an unmolested MAF so I have some baseline data for maths?

I would need the Mass Air Flow (lb/min) and RPM at any moment during WOT. Multiple data points would also be nice.

Thanks!

This would be very easy when I get my consult port.

[89hatchman]

Will I have a leak if I'm missing one of the long bolts that bolts the SR20DET head (in front of the cams) to the timing chain cover? I can't fit that one bolt in past the cam with the gear on it for the CAS and everything is put together and in time. I really really really don't wan to take everything apart to do that.

[Reece]

What wheel hubs will fit on a Personal wheel?

[I<3BEWBZ]

I'm pretty sure Nardi/Personal use the same pattern. I run a Circuit Sports quick release hub and my Nardi mounts up fine.

[Reece]

Originally Posted by I<3BEWBZ

I'm pretty sure Nardi/Personal use the same pattern. I run a Circuit Sports quick release hub and my Nardi mounts up fine.

Awesome. Thanks.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Nikzilla

Hi guys.

I'm trying to learn about volumetric efficiencies and reading compressor maps and such.

Could someone give me MAF data for a stock S13 SR20DET with an unmolested MAF so I have some baseline data for maths?

I would need the Mass Air Flow (lb/min) and RPM at any moment during WOT. Multiple data points would also be nice.

Thanks!

This would be very easy when I get my consult port.

I am putting this out there for you since you appear to want to gain the knowledge of the great tuners. Save your money. GO TO Yashio Factory, and say,"Sensei, teach me !" then grovel down into a deep bow like you would for a karate master and hope like fuck they will allow you to study.

[Nikzilla]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

I am putting this out there for you since you appear to want to gain the knowledge of the great tuners. Save your money. GO TO Yashio Factory, and say,"Sensei, teach me !" then grovel down into a deep bow like you would for a karate master and hope like fuck they will allow you to study.

LOL. I've always wanted to go to Japan...

[mechanicalmoron]

My clutch bites high. About half way up. It feels like it finishes tightening up JUST as the pedal tops out.

It's the original, I think. almost 220k on it. But it feels like it grabs hard, usually. Enough so that it chatters when it's hot.

Does the engaugement point change that much as the clutch wears? I'd think the pedal point would only move a few mm, as that's what's wearing off the clutch.

Is it worth looking at my fork or anything, is there anything I could try without removing the trans?

Has a new slave (not because it failed, but because I was removing the damper block/circuit, and the old bleeder was siezed and twisted off on me). Feels the same as the last slave. I did consider cutting down the old slave's pushrod and trying that, to give it more distance to go - but I think that might only address the symptom, not the problem.



On a possibly related note:

Sometimes On a slight turn while I'm flooring it and just coming into the power band, something slips and hooks as I straiten or shift, but I don't hear a chirp or see any leftover rubber - I'm really not sure if it's the open diff talking, or my clutch slipping (maybe against the little extra force of having to fight the turn, you know)

Also, I adjusted the master pushrod as much as possible. Really, it changes very little in either direction, but I did let it out as much as possible, so there's the maximum slack.

[89hatchman]

any problems with using home depot or lowes bolts as replacements for the transmission cross member and the diff to drive shaft?

[ze12o]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

any problems with using home depot or lowes bolts as replacements for the transmission cross member and the diff to drive shaft?

as long as it fits and it's grade 8 or higher I don't see why not.

[titopr06]

can i install a r33 gts-t diff onto an s14 with z32 na axles?
both the diff and z32 na axles are the matching 5 bolt star pattern.

[Torq_Meister]

I have a problem with my s14 zenki headlights, the adjustment gears within the headlights are broken causing the headlights to point straight at the ground. Is there anyway to get replacement gears or will i have to buy new headlight housings?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

any problems with using home depot or lowes bolts as replacements for the transmission cross member and the diff to drive shaft?

Do yourself a big favor. Look around town and find a local dedicated mechanical/industrial hardware store. Here you will find not only grade 8 bolts for less, but you will also find Stainless, or blackout finishes for some stuff. BUT, what you will also get is very precisely machined stuff that just fits better. You will also build a solid relationship with the owner/counter person who you will see time and time again which will get you slight discounts after time

[Sir]

Originally Posted by ze12o

as long as it fits and it's grade 8 or higher I don't see why not.

Grade 8 refers to SAE bolts only.
For metric its a class 10.9 or above. So the class 8.8 that they sell isn't going to cut it.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Sir

Grade 8 refers to SAE bolts only.
For metric its a class 10.9 or above. So the class 8.8 that they sell isn't going to cut it.

Furthermore, the 8.8's are not only too weak, they are the weakest metric, I believe. Very important distinction.

But, if you have an application where you can use a SAE bolt instead and you have the grade 8, that's totally fine.

Originally Posted by Konster

Quick question.


Can S13 power folding mirrors be wired to the ignition so when I turn the car on they unfold and fold when I turn it off?

Do they have a 12v signal wire, like the power antenna?

If so, you just need to hook it up to a switched 12v source. There's at least 2 behind the radio (I assume that both would be in proper harnesses if mine hadn't been cut, but they're the blue wires.... don't cut your shit though), or I believe the main source that switches them is a relay in the box by the airbox.

So yeah, just don't cut any harnesses.

[az_240]

New to battery relocation...

Do most people just run the power wire from the battery straight to the starter? Or is it better to use a distribution block and have the power wire go to the fuse box?

What do people do with the smaller wires that were originally hooked up to the positive battery terminal if not using a distribution block? I'd like to cut back on clutter/wires if I can.

Is it okay to mount a 120amp circuit breaker to the plastic battery box or should I think of doing something else? I will be running a 480w amp for the speakers if that makes any difference.