GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by tabasco122

is it really? i have the stock t25 still, but i messed up my stock wastegate, upgraded to the hks (after unsucessfully trying an ebay wastegate) and i no longer get boost creep at 12psi. what extactly makes it a waste?

It's a re-branded Garrett unit. Why pay $130 for something you can get from Garrett for half that?

[tabasco122]

Originally Posted by codyace

At 12 psi, even a Garrett one works fine. It's once you start getting up and beyond 16 psi where they all kinda stink/not work after a while. THey all work at first, then you gotta preload them, and then they are uncontroable. Even on the dyno, sometimes (running strictly off the gate) you'd see 14, and others 22. That's not boost control to me.

Originally Posted by S14DB

It's a re-branded Garrett unit. Why pay $130 for something you can get from Garrett for half that?

I wasnt aware. i picked one up after i tried an ebay unit that didnt work. didnt know there was a cheaper alternative...

[nismoninjagtr]

well dang i'll have to figure something out before i get it out onto the dyno...

[jspaeth]

I don't know why you guys even listen to this CodyAce guy.......it's not like he has the fastest 2871R 240 out there.

nor does he have any proof, like 1/4 mile times or trap speeds.

Oh wait.......nevermind.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Cody, what are your thoughts on Nistune?

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Cody, what are your thoughts on Nistune?

not a fan from personal experience

Get the AEM FIC if you're that hard up for mula or save up for a real standalone,

when you put all the prices together, and ive heard this from a few customers in the past now who switched from nistune to a used or new PFC, it's not much of savings for a diy that takes time and energy away from concentrating on the build and tuning, personal as well as advice and word back from several customers state side...

I just don't appreciate them calling it a full EMS, it's a stand in for eprom burning which is what it really is not a standalone EMS.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

I don't know why you guys even listen to this CodyAce guy.......it's not like he has the fastest 2871R 240 out there.

nor does he have any proof, like 1/4 mile times or trap speeds.

Oh wait.......nevermind.

Well, to the defense of 'whereda40sat' (I think that is his name) he does have the fastest time and trap...but in a lightweight, drag setup s13 (mid 10's at 122 IIRC...1.4x 60'!) However very few of us can boast 120 traps

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Cody, what are your thoughts on Nistune?

I'll answer it below, in conjunction with Steve's posts.

Originally Posted by steve shadows

Ken go with the Tomei oil pan if you can, that's what I recommend, it's worth saving up for it too if you plan on burning and turning for a while with that motor, the Greddy's and the Freddys have problems stripping and not a big fan of the bolt patterns also...this is from headaches from experience track side personally...just what I ended up doing on one of the recent builds, more expensive but I thought it was worth it for such a critical part on the SR...

What do you have issues stripping out? The drain? Sheeet...if you strip that out, you shoudln't be working on cars

I'm gonna argue on the other side: that is the Tomei pan is a little 'tricky' sort to speak with the outer sealing bolts and how limited/shallow they are. It's a minor bitch, but I prefer the allen headed socket cap screws that greddy offers. In the end, I'd use either without hesitation.

Regardless, they all work well. I've never personally installed a Moroso pan, but I have examined it, and it's another viable option as well. In the end of the day, a larger capacity/baffled pan is a huge 'safety' mod for these engines. I would not run a freddy pan however, as their threaded areas (the little bungs in the side) are often shittally cast, and require a re tap, or at best to be cut out/new bung rewelded.

Originally Posted by steve shadows

not a fan from personal experience

Get the AEM FIC if you're that hard up for mula or save up for a real standalone,

when you put all the prices together, and ive heard this from a few customers in the past now who switched from nistune to a used or new PFC, it's not much of savings for a diy that takes time and energy away from concentrating on the build and tuning, personal as well as advice and word back from several customers state side...

I just don't appreciate them calling it a full EMS, it's a stand in for eprom burning which is what it really is not a standalone EMS.

Nistune is certainly an 'option' for those capable of using it, however that market is very slim (at best). To me, I wish Calum had implemented a RealTime setup for the RWD market, as it was much more user friendly and easier to work than Nistune...however that never came to light.

I wouldn't discredit it completely though. It's a capable setup, but in the end of the day I'd rather run a JWT or Enthalpy ECU and be done with it. No worries, turn key, reliable and they work. If I was building a race car, it would be different...but I own a street, thus use street based ROM tunes. (I have thousands of track miles, but it's still a street car in the end)

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by codyace

Nistune is certainly an 'option' for those capable of using it, however that market is very slim (at best). To me, I wish Calum had implemented a RealTime setup for the RWD market, as it was much more user friendly and easier to work than Nistune...however that never came to light.

I wouldn't discredit it completely though. It's a capable setup, but in the end of the day I'd rather run a JWT or Enthalpy ECU and be done with it. No worries, turn key, reliable and they work. If I was building a race car, it would be different...but I own a street, thus use street based ROM tunes. (I have thousands of track miles, but it's still a street car in the end)

I understand the simplicity and ease of getting a ROM based tune, but something about it still makes me nervous not being able to control everything...

Im on my 2nd motor now, and really really cant afford to let another one go, I got too much other shit to save for. What are you running for tuning?

Whats the cost of that? done and finished. and how often do you have to send it in and get it retuned? I worry about changing things and then having to spend another 300 to get it retuned...

My setup will end up being a built bottom end, a moderately built (rebuilt) topend, z32, S14 T28( gt2871 eventually), 740cc injectors, Greddy FMIC, exhaust, walbro 255, and all the other supporting mods that go with the above.

I just dont know what I want to do to keep this thing in check

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I understand the simplicity and ease of getting a ROM based tune, but something about it still makes me nervous not being able to control everything...

Im on my 2nd motor now, and really really cant afford to let another one go, I got too much other shit to save for. What are you running for tuning?

Whats the cost of that? done and finished. and how often do you have to send it in and get it retuned? I worry about changing things and then having to spend another 300 to get it retuned...

My setup will end up being a built bottom end, a moderately built (rebuilt) topend, z32, S14 T28( gt2871 eventually), 740cc injectors, Greddy FMIC, exhaust, walbro 255, and all the other supporting mods that go with the above.

I just dont know what I want to do to keep this thing in check

Depends on a couple of things. What do type of driving? Track or just spirited street driving? You should really invest in gauges that was the #1 fault of mine. Went with autometer, that POS failed me. Going with Powered by Max, they have new electronic meters, which looks pretty good.... Meters are your friend. Meters should check oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, and coolant temps.

If you go to the track, swirl pot for the fuel, swirl pot for the coolant, oil cooler, accusump, and greddy pan.

Other than that just check ups on your car often and get a good tune aka SteveShadows....

[codyace]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Depends on a couple of things. What do type of driving? Track or just spirited street driving? You should really invest in gauges that was the #1 fault of mine. Went with autometer, that POS failed me. Going with Powered by Max, they have new electronic meters, which looks pretty good.... Meters are your friend. Meters should check oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, and coolant temps.

Gauges are certainly important. Autometer may not be the best, but their mid range stuff isn't junk either. I'd stay away from any of the cheaper stuff/non name brand myself.

Originally Posted by silversr

So i sent my ecu back to enthalpy and he said for some reason the original tune was for 700cc injectors so he switched it to 740cc and he added some timing to help with the s3 cams. It was running fine with this tune no hesitation etc.. but it wasn't making the power it should.

You're timing and everything are right? Chips installed the right way? While I may be a JWT fan, I will say that Enthalpy (Scott Chris or Martin) all have been SUPER helpful and more than willing to make good on their tunes and ECU's

Originally Posted by silversr

I just hate having to wait a few days before even getting a response.

That's going to happen with anyone and the ECU's. You gotta remember their life is not the ECU business, so their may be time to wait before reply. Gotta also remember how many emails they must get.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I understand the simplicity and ease of getting a ROM based tune, but something about it still makes me nervous not being able to control everything...

I wouldn't be concerned with either the JWT or Enthalpy setups as both have bene out now long enough to have tunes on. Most issues with cars always seem to be 'with the car' moreso than the tune...wiring, or vacuum, or timing, or condition of parts etc etc.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Im on my 2nd motor now, and really really cant afford to let another one go, I got too much other shit to save for. What are you running for tuning?

Jim Wolf Ecu. I've run once since day one. I got a reflash a few years back to add on water injection and launch control, and that has been it.

I always prefer the JWT ECU for my own stuff, just as I've had fantastic luck with them, across all platforms (From my Altimas, to Sentra's to Z's and to the 240sx)...they work perfect out of the box (some cars may need a minor fuel pressure adjustment, but that's not under the ECU control) and are reliable.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Whats the cost of that? done and finished. and how often do you have to send it in and get it retuned? I worry about changing things and then having to spend another 300 to get it retuned...

The only thing you'd ever need to change in regard to a retune is if you change injectors or MAF...so you're best bet is to get 740cc and a Z32/Cobra maf off the bat and be done. On some cars we've logged them and gotten minor adjustments, but it's only due to the owner wanting it (and for 100 dollars it's not a bad deal).

[tabasco122]

i was looking at the moroso. sheet metal > cast in my opinion. i mean if it came down to it, i would rather have a sheet metal pan take a hit than a cast one.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by tabasco122

i was looking at the moroso. sheet metal > cast in my opinion. i mean if it came down to it, i would rather have a sheet metal pan take a hit than a cast one.

The greddy cast pans are actually quite tough/versatile...while I hate to admit it, I had my engine come down 'in a hurry' onto the pan once while lifting it with an engine hoist. Pan survived without fail.

In the grand scheme of things, if you're hitting something hard enogh/large enough to damage the pan, you've got other things going on to worry about hehe. I understand the debate, but I wouldn't say the sheet metal pans are any more/less durable than the Greddy ones..heck you could hit a rock and still tear/brake a weld on the steel ones, just as easy as cracking a cast one.

[tabasco122]

true i guess. i have so much more to do before i get an oil pan though, like actually get my 2871r. ive been running around on a fully built engine with the stock turbo since january lol. my trip to the dragon last month and my trip to indy this month are sucking me dry.

im very curious to see what ill make on the dyno once i get it.

does anyone else have 9:1 CR with this turbo? i tried to look for dyno charts of a setup similar to mine, but i couldnt really find anything.

[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by tabasco122

true i guess. i have so much more to do before i get an oil pan though, like actually get my 2871r. ive been running around on a fully built engine with the stock turbo since january lol. my trip to the dragon last month and my trip to indy this month are sucking me dry.

im very curious to see what ill make on the dyno once i get it.

does anyone else have 9:1 CR with this turbo? i tried to look for dyno charts of a setup similar to mine, but i couldnt really find anything.

I am running CP 9:1 comp pistons. I have a dyno sheet somewhere in this thread but I was also having trouble making boost/power past 16 psi (340rwhp) - Ill be re-tuning soon and be posting graphs

[usdm180sx]

My Greddy oilpan stripped. Autobacs did it when I got my oil changed but they bought me a new one. But yeah I wasn't too happy about it

[tabasco122]

enthalpy costs $400 for the initial tune (mainly setting it up with the daughtercard) and $150 for each retune. Unless you change your setup significantly, you shouldnt need to send it in for a retune. If something is wrong with the tune, usually enthalpy will send you a reflash for free. You never have to send your ecu back in, you order the new tune and they send you the chips that you can just swap out. I found an enthalpy ECU for $200 so now i have an extra ECU, when i get my turbo and injectors, ill pay enthalpy $150 for the tune and they will send me chips, takes a few days usually. For moderate power goals of 500hp or less, you cant beat it imho.

[2forty]

ive gotten a reflash from enthalpy and it ran horrible. i then sent it back in for another reflash. after countless emails and whatnot, i never got another tune. Ill never go back. my cousin also had a similar experience.

[tabasco122]

when was this? ive done a lot of reading and they have a pretty good reputation...

[2forty]

This was within about 1.5 years for my retune. I ran tune i purchased from someone else tuned for an hks2530. This tune actually ran pretty decent, but i wanted a correct tune. I ordered the retune from them, my idle was nasty rish, 10.5 and under. spewing black smoke and studdering. Switched back to the initial tune, ran like a champ. Sent the tune back to get reflashed, never got anything back after countless emails and pms. My cousin ordered a tune for his 2871r setup. Ran rich as hell on idle, spewing smoke. He threw on an old tune he purchased with his ecu setup for a 35r, and it ran better. Me personally, I will never purchase another enthalpy tune. but thats just speaking for myself. ill go JWT is i need a rom tune.

[mattsil80wis]

after dealing with both enthalpy and JWT i will send everyone to both...i have dealt with both of them very closely and they are both excellent at what they do. I have never had a problem with either company. They were always fast to respond and took the time to help figure out issues with my car.

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Autometer isn't bad from what I hear, but has anyone had any complaints with Prosports?

[tabasco122]

Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz

Autometer isn't bad from what I hear, but has anyone had any complaints with Prosports?

I have prosport premium gauges and i prefer them over my autometer pro comps. they are awesome, and just as accurate. reads the same pressure as my autometer did, and it matches my profec too. They dont react as fast as the defi's, but i honestly cant think of a situation where that would matter. IE, when you shift, a defi goes from boost to vac in like 1/4 of a second, the prosport is like 1/2 a second. The pro sport premium gauges also have the peak/warn feature, which saved my ass last night when a coolant hose under the intake mani busted and caused my car to nearly overheat.

[codyace]

I"ve personally logged vs prosports and autometeres and with that said would never ever run prosports in my personal stuff. They work, but nothing exact. Same can be said with entry level autometers, they work, but not well.

[tabasco122]

Originally Posted by codyace

I"ve personally logged vs prosports and autometeres and with that said would never ever run prosports in my personal stuff. They work, but nothing exact. Same can be said with entry level autometers, they work, but not well.

which prosports were you using?

[2fast4y0u]

guys-
long time no post for me.

quick background on whats happening because im DESPERATE for some help!!!

car has been at the paint shop for 9 months getting done. just got it back beautiful as ever and im starting to clean it up. engine bay is destroyed from all the over spray and paint dust in the place. pissed off, i decide to try and clean everything with lacquer thinner...not working. i decide to then wash the engine bay down with de-greaser and pressure wash everything.
i cover up the air filter with a bag so it doesnt get wet. i never got close enough to anything to harm it. i have an osculating head on the washer so its not just a straight blast. Afterwards, i changed the oil and washed the air filter. The car sat for a week not touch, moved, or anything...
i tried driving it to a car show 2 days ago and everything seemed fine until i left......
the car starts fine. the car revs fine. if i put the engine under a load it sounds like a machine gun. the worse stutter i have ever heard.
i checked the spark plug...valleys lets call em. there was a VERY small amount of water in a few. i blew them out and dried was ever was left with a towel. i unplugged the injectors because i read that a bad connection could cause this. i left everything open and unplugged for an entire day. last night, i hooked everything back up, plugged in the injectors and took it for a drive. same thing. first gear, about 3000-3500 rpm 50% throttle pure machine gun. put it in neutral or press the clutch and it will rev to 7000 rpm no problem. WTF?!?!?!?

any ideas?

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

guys-
long time no post for me.

quick background on whats happening because im DESPERATE for some help!!!

car has been at the paint shop for 9 months getting done. just got it back beautiful as ever and im starting to clean it up. engine bay is destroyed from all the over spray and paint dust in the place. pissed off, i decide to try and clean everything with lacquer thinner...not working. i decide to then wash the engine bay down with de-greaser and pressure wash everything.
i cover up the air filter with a bag so it doesnt get wet. i never got close enough to anything to harm it. i have an osculating head on the washer so its not just a straight blast. Afterwards, i changed the oil and washed the air filter. The car sat for a week not touch, moved, or anything...
i tried driving it to a car show 2 days ago and everything seemed fine until i left......
the car starts fine. the car revs fine. if i put the engine under a load it sounds like a machine gun. the worse stutter i have ever heard.
i checked the spark plug...valleys lets call em. there was a VERY small amount of water in a few. i blew them out and dried was ever was left with a towel. i unplugged the injectors because i read that a bad connection could cause this. i left everything open and unplugged for an entire day. last night, i hooked everything back up, plugged in the injectors and took it for a drive. same thing. first gear, about 3000-3500 rpm 50% throttle pure machine gun. put it in neutral or press the clutch and it will rev to 7000 rpm no problem. WTF?!?!?!?

any ideas?

Hmmmm....is it possible moisture or dust or something got into the CAS sensor?

[nismoninjagtr]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

guys-
long time no post for me.

quick background on whats happening because im DESPERATE for some help!!!

car has been at the paint shop for 9 months getting done. just got it back beautiful as ever and im starting to clean it up. engine bay is destroyed from all the over spray and paint dust in the place. pissed off, i decide to try and clean everything with lacquer thinner...not working. i decide to then wash the engine bay down with de-greaser and pressure wash everything.
i cover up the air filter with a bag so it doesnt get wet. i never got close enough to anything to harm it. i have an osculating head on the washer so its not just a straight blast. Afterwards, i changed the oil and washed the air filter. The car sat for a week not touch, moved, or anything...
i tried driving it to a car show 2 days ago and everything seemed fine until i left......
the car starts fine. the car revs fine. if i put the engine under a load it sounds like a machine gun. the worse stutter i have ever heard.
i checked the spark plug...valleys lets call em. there was a VERY small amount of water in a few. i blew them out and dried was ever was left with a towel. i unplugged the injectors because i read that a bad connection could cause this. i left everything open and unplugged for an entire day. last night, i hooked everything back up, plugged in the injectors and took it for a drive. same thing. first gear, about 3000-3500 rpm 50% throttle pure machine gun. put it in neutral or press the clutch and it will rev to 7000 rpm no problem. WTF?!?!?!?

any ideas?

check your harness where ever it could have got wet and see if somethings exposed thats where i'd start...

[codyace]

Originally Posted by tabasco122

which prosports were you using?

Unsure on the type, whatever was out 3 years ago. Turb oMustang buddy of mine bought them, and they were garbage vs the AEM.

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

guys-
same thing. first gear, about 3000-3500 rpm 50% throttle pure machine gun. put it in neutral or press the clutch and it will rev to 7000 rpm no problem. WTF?!?!?!?

Reset your ECU, and then check the MAF/CAS/CTS for water in the connectors or shorts. Sounds like a limp mode issue more than anything.

[tabasco122]

Originally Posted by codyace

Unsure on the type, whatever was out 3 years ago. Turb oMustang buddy of mine bought them, and they were garbage vs the AEM.

gotcha, i was wary about them at first, but i decided to try them. Prosport is really good about refunds from what i read, and everything i could find on them was from a few years ago, nothing recent. My gauges perform pretty good, identical to my old autometer gauge and my greddy profec b spec 2.

[codyace]

i guess the best way to put it, is that the prosport will work, but they are not the most accurate gauge per the cash. Good enough? Sure...the best? Not a chance.