V-Mount Set-Up

[REDSH!FT]

yeah removing the radiator core isnt the best idea even though its pretty flimsy. We are working on Ians V-Mount (mainevent) and his front end was totaled twice so I removed the radiator support but in the picture Ive created my own to support the intercooler. Ian picked the biggest radiator he could to fit and the intercooler is just resting. It will be angled slightly different once the tabs are tigged.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by MadScientist

I just realized that setting the radiator up like that is a bad move... Hot water should be introduced from the bottom so that it is being cooled before it enters the engine from the top. With nothing holding the Hot water in the Radiator (gravity) the flow will be to quick and cooling will not be efficent even with a good Thermo.

Radiator will be about 1" from the belts... i'm also planning on gold plating the areas effected by head sink.
I really dont want to do a Fully Boxed-in Racecar style ducting... hood is vented anyway. Only going to box in the sides so air can't go around the set-up... upper and lower is basicly self controled.

Peace
Drew

Gold plating... my bad baller! Ah well, ducting only the side could work, but definately not as well as being boxed in. If you do only do the sides, then the panel will work for you.

[MadScientist]

Originally Posted by Slidin240Wayz

Gold plating... my bad baller!

Gold Foil is not expensive at all and it deflects radiant heat up to 650 deg.
27" x 5 ft. roll is about $150... I only need about 1 ft. of it so that breaks down to about $30. With all that left over I could do the firewall.

Carlos... what are your plans on your set-up... what IC, Rad., etc...???

Peace
Drew

[Slidin240Wayz]

Here is the engine bay I am working with.



Here are a couple of test shots with a Starion IC. I could cut off the end tanks to how I need them.








Now I flip the strut bar so the IC can sink in a little more.






Then I take a side pic to check for clearance.

This helps me determine what is the best CF hood to get.





Side engine shot, exhaust side.



Ghetto, "let me hold up the ic and try to take a pic of how it matches up with the TB" pic.



Same thing on the exhaust side.




The other matter I am contemplating is the cold side of the IC, because it is only 2.5 inches and the TB is 3 (maybe have to subtract .5 inches respectively). So I might weld on a bigger cold side outlet.

Upon further review, it looks like my current hot pipe will not line up ok. Look at the indents in the rad support and compare back and forth. I will not a cold pipe with the bov on the other side.







And these are the best side shots I could find which indicate that I will most likely be keeping all of my radiator support, 2pts.! I did this by eyeing the engine compared to the fuse box and the fact that the IC ends before the or right on the tip of the fuse box.



I will use this to bleed the system







Some more on ducting. All I know how to use is MSPaint

I made my version to get a better idea of the ducting.



green- vent
blue- ducting
dark blue- cooling
black- hood and rad support
grey- motor
green- coupler
grey on green- clamp
brown- TB

I agree with the following;
1) Ducting being broken into 2 parts
2) Air will find its easiest way out, so make it easy for it to leave. Which involves guiding the air through the cooling systems the smoothest way through the channels with keeping turbulence to a minimum.


If I have enough room I can use thise Blitz Upper Radiator hose.





Here are some more ideas...






Please note the split ducting.




Phew...

Best wishes,
Carlos

[McRussellPants]

Originally Posted by MadScientist

I really dont want to do a Fully Boxed-in Racecar style ducting... hood is vented anyway. Only going to box in the sides so air can't go around the set-up... upper and lower is basicly self controled

Yes and no.

You could get a slightly better than OEM pressure like that, but once it gets to a certain pressure the air will find it easier to stagnate and go under the radiator and through the wheel wells.

Unless you have your radiator touching the bumper (which is risky since thats really out there where its gonna take a hit) you should at least do bottom/sides ducting that extend to the bumper, tops not as important if you have that rubber peice on the hood but would still help. If your gonna do this, it would be retarded beyond belief to spring for the C&R foil for heat soak, but not the 30$ in sheet aluminum to make proper ducting

Vented hood should be used to create a negative pressure behind the IC core, nearly all vented hoods will create separated flow (URAS/Koguchi/Dmax prolly have the most potential) so the key is sealed or semi sealed ducting to maximize the pressure differential across the core.

Like I said, the key to non front mounts is the ease of creating big pressure differentials in clean/fresh air. If your not gonna take advantage you might as well just make a front mount.

[MadScientist]

End tanks are perfect... thats exactly what you need... good find. Cut the pipes off and fab them as you need. Isn't the TB on the S14 SR, 60mm??? or do you have a larger TB? I dont think your going to have enough room to put the BOV on the Cold Side... the IC is sitting port to port with the TB.

Not boxing the in the Set-Up... I ment specifically not going to box the set-up from behind the IC core... and the Thermal plating is to prevent Radiant Heat. Naturally with most all V-mounts you will get Heat Sink from air not directly hitting the core all the time like you would with a FMIC. I will have fans on the Radiator, and will be spliting the air between the systems (IC/ Rad). I have a Garage-S Hood... if your not familiar with it it has an OE top shape and the main duct sits below about 3"... nothing crazy like the D-Max/ URAS.... not going for the cheese grater look... the Garage-S hood also has extra ducting on both sides behind the main for extra cooling in the engine bay... I have also went the extra step on not only having Vented Fenders but venting them from the engine side as well (Auto Select R34 inspired).

Peace
Drew

[McRussellPants]

Originally Posted by MadScientist

Not boxing the in the Set-Up... I ment specifically not going to box the set-up from behind the IC core... and the Thermal plating is to prevent Radiant Heat. Naturally with most all V-mounts you will get Heat Sink from air not directly hitting the core all the time like you would with a FMIC.

Yes, Heat reflective foils are old hat, my point is. spending 150 for some foil ain't gonna help jack when your not gonna duct anthing past the sides of the cores aft of the core support. which, is what it looked like you said in your original post.


As long as you have good ducting in front, whats behind it won't matter as much so I wouldn't worry about not ducting the IC to the hood.

lol, vented fenders.

[the head]

Instead of hacking up a koyo just get a circle track or stock car radiator from griffin or something I run a griffin 4 core in my car (non vmount) that sits about 3-4 inches lower than stock plus it is a side tank unit so it is a lot easier to move inlets and outlets around

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

after reading this thread... im going to redo my set up for sure..theres alot of good info here...

hey slidin240wayz...where did you get that intercooler from?
how do you guys mount the radiator and intercooler to the car? do you know if you can use oe size radiators or you have to get a shorter one?

how good do you think a chargespeed hood or a seibon vented hood would work w/ this set up?

[yokotas13]

epikmotorsports.com
He has done 4 or 5 v mounts on his own car.

Check out the site nad Email or call Jeff he shoudl be able to help

[MadScientist]

This is what I ment by Vented Fenders... de dee de!


Nice Find on the Griffin Radiator (27.5 x 15.5 x 3.0).. might have a winner.

IC and Rad are mounted to the ducting and core support.

Hey guys... I'm not trying to make this thread all about my set-up that I am no where near ready to work on... Mainly looking to see how others have done theirs and what they suggest... so far alot of good info.

Peace
Drew

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

where would be a good place to find a griffin radaitor?

^^
would it be possible to make thoes vented fenders by yourself? also do you have to duct air to thoes vents or does air naturally flow that way?

[Neejay]

I love v-mount setups. Definitely subscribing.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by IAM_SO_sLOw

hey slidin240wayz...where did you get that intercooler from?

how good do you think a chargespeed hood or a seibon vented hood would work w/ this set up?

Its a Starion IC--old school. An newer evo IC gives some room to play as well.

I think a single vented hood is good enough, just be prepared to cut the hole bigger for more flow.

Also, I think the mounting is done with brackets compared to being on the ducting. I would not trust the strength of sheetmetal to hold up and IC and radiator.

Drew,
I think those vents are a great idea and can be done by anyone with the right tools.

Carlos

[MadScientist]

Found Griffin Radiators on Summit Racing.

Porting the Fernders (new name) is deffinatly something anyone can do to their own Stock or Aftermarket Fenders. I have seen this done on many of the JGTC, Time Attack, and Z-tune R34 Skyline. The ports are not directly venting from the inside of the hood because the hood is not sealed so the effect would be more like a natural vaccuum.

Peace
Drew

[TipStylez]

^Can you give me more info on what thos "ported fenders" do? Sounds like a mod i might want to do.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Drew,
By looking at the setup I showed with the starion IC. What vented hood would fit best?

Carlos

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
would this be like the perfect radiator to use? same inlet and outlet points as stock sr..

would you happen to know the specs on the stock evo ICs? i cant really find it

i was wondering how you guys are going to set up your bovs like on the hot or cold side? also has anyone heard about people putting the mafs on the cold pipe side after the intercooler? i was thinking about doing that... any thoughts on this?

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by IAM_SO_sLOw

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
would this be like the perfect radiator to use? same inlet and outlet points as stock sr..

would you happen to know the specs on the stock evo ICs? i cant really find it

i was wondering how you guys are going to set up your bovs like on the hot or cold side? also has anyone heard about people putting the mafs on the cold pipe side after the intercooler? i was thinking about doing that... any thoughts on this?

Damn, 260 is rough right after buying a Koyo. But to make this easy to work, it might work really well, depending on the height. Also, that one has the bottom outlet at an upward angle which might be left alone.

You can find evo ICs on ebay and someone might have some dimensions.

Carlos

[the head]

if you do some searching you can get those griffin circle track units for fifty or more less on true circle track racer sites plus a lot of them offer free shipping my last one was 195

[Slidin240Wayz]

Where did you get yours from?

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

alright i think i found the specs of the evo IC its 19x11.5x2.75... i hope thoes specs are right and i think its stock...
does anyone know if the IC is too tall? looks like it will be cutting kinda close to the motor... hey slidin240wayz...what are the specs on the starion IC....

would you happen to have more pictures of that orange 240? i want to see more pictures of the ducting...
-thanks

[Slidin240Wayz]

From left to right, matching the center of the throttle body to the center of the turbo outlet is app. 24 inches so it would be best to make sure the IC's endtanks match up very close.







By using that Evo, you might have to snip the radiator core just a little bit. I think the optimal height would be 9 inches.


Carlos

[PoorMans180SX]

have you looked at WhiteGLX's ducting:
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...t=Grip+V-mount
Real sweet. Nice guy too.

[McRussellPants]

Originally Posted by TipStylez

^Can you give me more info on what thos "ported fenders" do? Sounds like a mod i might want to do.

not particularly.

JGTC fenders are vented at the back and bottom to clear out the highpressure area that forms in the wheel wells. on stock fenders they aren't gonna do shit.

Koyos are easy to use for V-mount, you just have to angle them though the core support. IIRC the signal cars did it, along with JDM Rice.

[FCsilvia]

since we're all sharing pics of vmics..

this was the FC i built the VMIC for. ended up removing everything out because the owner wanted a Haltech installed.

Northern 27" x 19" radiator
Ebay EVO intercooler 20" x 12.25" x 2.75" core

[NemeGuero]

dear god those have some short IC pipes..

I might have to do that once my car works right.
Throttle response has to be so sexy.

[brainfood]

Which hood are you going to run on the zenk s14? I have been looking for vented hood that would suit a vmount setup in the future for my new chassis but I cant really find one that I like. I like the seibon but not sure if the front vent is really setup for a vmount.

[articdragon192]

My friend is running V-mount on his GT35 powered KAT. He custom made a dual pass dual row radiator and custome made the endtakes on his IC for his car. Here are some pics. The car spools like crazy.

[brainfood]

Originally Posted by articdragon192

My friend is running V-mount on his GT35 powered KAT. He custom made a dual pass dual row radiator and custome made the endtakes on his IC for his car. Here are some pics. The car spools like crazy.

what hood?