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Old 09-02-2006, 10:13 PM   #61
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Stock hood for now. He states that it cools suffient enough while the car is in motion. once the car is at a stop for a decent amount of time, you start to notice the heat take on a toll, but goes back to normal once it gets in motion again. Currently he aquired a stock S14 hood and is gonna make a vent on it necessary to get rid of all the hot air. throttle response is nice. Starts spooling around 3-3.5k.
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Old 09-02-2006, 11:38 PM   #62
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slidin240wayz:: where can i find a starion IC... i kinda think its better than a evo's what was the height for the starion?

brainfood:: do you know where your friend got his end tanks welded at?
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:42 AM   #63
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Old 09-03-2006, 09:17 AM   #64
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slidin240wayz:: where can i find a starion IC... i kinda think its better than a evo's what was the height for the starion?

Ebay and it's 8 inches high. My only concern is HP rating.

Carlos
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Old 09-03-2006, 12:11 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slidin240Wayz
Ebay and it's 8 inches high. My only concern is HP rating.

Carlos

Whats up with these??
http://www.streetimports.com/product_details.asp?id=356

Custom endtanks, looks like a perfect size. Should flow plenty and cool effeciently. I would think a smaller core would be okay for 2 reasons. Most cores are way to big anyway that people run for the amount of power they are putting out (most kits are good for 600+hp). And the vmount is going to cool more efficiently making it possible to run a smaller core. Worst case you can rock a nx ntercooler. I will probably run one on my setup since I hate sr's that overheat which is most in the socal sun at drift days.
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Old 09-03-2006, 08:55 PM   #66
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I did a vmount setup on my90 240sx redtop it was that hard i bolted the plate that hold my intercooler up to the latch so it holds the latch still works great ebay intercooler 1g dsm radiator.
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Old 09-03-2006, 09:01 PM   #67
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I'm extremeley jealous.. that looks so pimp.
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Old 09-03-2006, 09:31 PM   #68
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Hey Guys, I dropped my motor in today and I measured the distance from the edge of the radiator support to the tip of the motor; 11 inches. The starion has about 2-3 inches of play which is great. I will have a FMIC for the time being but I will mock up the starion to show you guys how it would fit.

Brainfood,
A 21 might work wonders. Remember I said 24 inches from center to center, TB and turbo outlet. If you take 3 inches off the total length of an IC (endtank to endtank), the optimal core wold be 20-22 inches.

Thes guys on ebay offers 2 great intercoolers but they are a little thick; 4 inches...

SR style



Length (Core) 18"
Height 12"
Thickness 4"
Inlet 3"
Outlet 3"


RX7 style



Core Length : 18"
Core Height: 12"
Core Thickness: 3.5"
Inlet Size: 2.5"
Outlet Size: 2.5"
End to End" Length: 25"

So the possibilities are out there guys!

Carlos

ps if you want the SR style one, I can get you a better deal than listed.
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Old 09-03-2006, 09:32 PM   #69
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thanx man lol
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Old 09-03-2006, 09:34 PM   #70
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use an rx7 vmount intercooler from ebay thats what i did
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Old 09-04-2006, 12:02 AM   #71
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i think the starion intercooler is perfect... im looking for a starion intercooler.. i cant find it on ebay or anywhere =(... how much hp can the starion hold? 300?

a 12in height ic is kinda too big unless you want to cut the radiator support a inch or so...
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:45 AM   #72
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starions are SHIT for flow. only peopel that Use them on DSMs dont realize its only Slightly better than their sidemount
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Old 09-04-2006, 07:06 AM   #73
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starions are SHIT for flow. only peopel that Use them on DSMs dont realize its only Slightly better than their sidemount

I have been looking for some type of evidence/ research. Do you have HP ratings to prove this or any other type of proof?

Carlos
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Old 09-04-2006, 07:13 AM   #74
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I have 4 sub 13 second DSMs i built personaly for people in the last 5 years, tried Starion on one, and after retuning for it, made WORSE numbers than the stock sidemount, and intake temps at hte throttle body went up.

i hope that would be enough. HP was off by nearly 25 or so and temps went up almost 13 degrees. if i recall correctly, it was one of the first ones i built(on a PTE 50 trim with a 46 ar btw

By slightly better, i meant wow you have a FMIC btw

IMO the best upgrades are an SRT4 or a EVO FMIC. if yoru gonna do it yourself. But i saw the best perormance out the 24 row Greddy lol
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Old 09-04-2006, 08:14 AM   #75
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24 row greddy would be nice, but size is the biggest factor. I am leaning towards and Evo IC or the SR style I posted above. I can cut 2 slite through the rad support and run brackets through the slit and tighten it onto the rad support studs. This was it stays under the rad support.

Carlos
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Old 09-04-2006, 10:58 AM   #76
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With all the work of going vmount to be more efficient I think a good flowing efficient ic core would be essential. At least for me, as I see it why go vmount if I am going to loose my low pressure drop fmic core for some janky ghetto rigged setup. I wont see any more response if I use a crappy core and that is why I would go vmount in the first place.
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:16 PM   #77
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Good point, which is why ducting and IC choice and positioning is key.

Carlos
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:30 PM   #78
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So is there an optimal angle for the best flow? I've seen a few V's that look like the top IC is flat, others its angled.. and there doesn't really seem to be a pattern.

Ducting is important I gather, so do you just wall in the sides, top and bottom?
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Old 09-04-2006, 04:05 PM   #79
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Searching all over the place, as always, I have found the following.

Flat Top IC (or "7" style) has less piping but your core size will have to be smaller (height) so it can fit between the Rad. support and the Engine, otherwise you will be cutting into the Rad. Support. Benifits would lean more towards having the IC closer to the hood vents... so at speed the air traveling over the hood would help suck air through the core.

Angle Mount IC (or ">" style) would have slightly more piping but you can possition a bigger IC a little better without killing your Rad. Support. This will also place the IC closer to the air traveling through the face.

Ducting doesn't have to be all crazy. Closing in the sides is most critical as you dont want a large mass of air to escape around the part your trying to cool. Ducting the Face or boxing the Face is undersatandable and will force more air into the IC and Rad. Boxing the Top will be the same effects as the "7" style with a good vented hood. The most benifical would be a spliter so in comming air is devorced into its own duct (IC/ Rad).

The Signal Auto Drift Twins use Greddy IC Cores.
One is Flat Top IC, and a chopped Radiator support.

Other has a slight angled IC and a cut Radiator support.


Also HKS offers Core and Side Tank options, but you'll need to get welded.
HKS Core #12 (#1303-RA016) 600 x 301 x 65mm
HKS End Tank - C (17302-169327)
HKS End Tank - D (17302-170327)
Piping is a little long (100mm) but easy to cut down as needed.

Peace
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Old 09-04-2006, 05:12 PM   #80
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god damn.. thanks Drew.
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Old 09-04-2006, 05:57 PM   #81
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drew, just a thought. what if you set up the radiator like i've seen on some fords. you fill the radiator through a plastic tank that also acts as an overflow for the system. the tank usually has a 16psi plastic cap. i've also seen a setup where they ran an extra pipe from the radiator up next to the engine as a fill point.

btw im the guy w/ missing body panels that was at npr. they're all back on and painted now.
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:04 PM   #82
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The best flow would be straight through the fins. The second Signal car has a better flow because the side closer to the motor is lower than the side closer to the rad support. Just imagine bending the air so that it would be like the IC was in the front of the car.

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Old 09-04-2006, 06:09 PM   #83
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What up Squirrel!?!

Yes, for the Radiator you can extend the filled tube or you can make it solid and use a Bubbler Tank like the SARD which includes a Radiator Cap at would server the same funtions. Just remember to place the over flow line above the inlet port on the engine.

I think someone was using a modified Morroso Tank (white, V-mount?).

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Old 09-04-2006, 06:15 PM   #84
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Notice how this guy retains stock looking radiator? Is it?

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Old 09-04-2006, 07:58 PM   #85
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i had posted wuite the write up on how and why i did mine like i did, and how it ended up working at the race track, i would never use mysetup for daily driving because of cooling issues when the car isnt moving.

setup mounted with smaller than KOYO radiator old Greddy FMIC and without cutting any supports.


lower ducting




upper ducting




ducting fitment in the "V"




hood fitment

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Old 09-04-2006, 09:36 PM   #86
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hey i looked into the srt 4 stock intercoolers....the specs i thnk are 23.5x5.75x3.5...what do you guys think about this? height too small?
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Old 09-04-2006, 09:51 PM   #87
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hp rating on that?

Thanks for posting pics of your setup bro. How do you bracket the IC and Rad in place?
Carlos
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Old 09-04-2006, 10:19 PM   #88
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Quote:
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hp rating on that?

Thanks for posting pics of your setup bro. How do you bracket the IC and Rad in place?
Carlos

i only put down about 260whp, its just a T28 for a long time commin. IC and Rad are held in place with brackets i made and then had a hprofessional welder to all the welding for me (i didnt want to eff up the IC or RAD and get leaks). i sadly dont have pictures of those.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:23 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteGLX
i only put down about 260whp, its just a T28 for a long time commin. IC and Rad are held in place with brackets i made and then had a hprofessional welder to all the welding for me (i didnt want to eff up the IC or RAD and get leaks). i sadly dont have pictures of those.

Setup looks nice do you run fans on the radiator? Not sure why it would overheat for street driving it looks very efficient. Are you getting a good low pressure zone behind the ic with the ducting that far above the hood line?
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:31 AM   #90
fico
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its not exactly a vmount but i had a question...i have my radiator at a reverse angle but the inner cooler is the same just the radiator bottom is close to the engine and top is close leaned against the front...do u think this will help hinder or do nothing?
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