Maximum TIRE(Rubber) fitment thread

[greddy2die]

yeah, im no expert but some time attack people run -3 degrees of camber in the front and like -2 in the rear of their cars. Obviously it varies but, you get the idea.

[tayloray]

Originally Posted by HighwaystarJC

you need to learn more about cornering. camber actually adds grip to your setup if done correctly. only when you have extreme amounts of camber or camber with stretch does it really have an adverse reaction to grip.

even with a stock setup you dont want 0* camber. with tire roll and such you need camber so when your car rolls it will actually have more contact.

Very true, tried running zero camber on my street/track car. it was horrible. you could endues oversteer just by turning aggressively. The only people that run almost no camber are the fd guys because the car squats so much

[drifter92]

Originally Posted by HighwaystarJC

you need to learn more about cornering. camber actually adds grip to your setup if done correctly. only when you have extreme amounts of camber or camber with stretch does it really have an adverse reaction to grip.

even with a stock setup you dont want 0* camber. with tire roll and such you need camber so when your car rolls it will actually have more contact.

I am referring to pointlessly high amounts of camber, where people add camber just to clear the fitment on a wheel with a wider tire instead of a 10mm smaller tire at lower camber, they camber the wheels in and lose 30mm of tread contact...

I understand camber for tire roll/contact patch/weight transfer, i just see so many cars running too much camber but claiming they are going for "maximum rubber"... I guess they don't actually mean grip lol

[dudermagee]

-3 isn't alot of camber.....

[kingkilburn]

You're talking about -12* oni camber. -3* is barely noticeable.

[drifter92]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

You're talking about -12* oni camber. -3* is barely noticeable.

-3.0* is easy for me to notice... I run -0.5* on the rear of my s14 and -4.0* on the front for a flat contact patch at steering lock. This is a drift car though, not time attack.

[HighwaystarJC]

Originally Posted by drifter92

I am referring to pointlessly high amounts of camber, where people add camber just to clear the fitment on a wheel with a wider tire instead of a 10mm smaller tire at lower camber, they camber the wheels in and lose 30mm of tread contact...

I understand camber for tire roll/contact patch/weight transfer, i just see so many cars running too much camber but claiming they are going for "maximum rubber"... I guess they don't actually mean grip lol

I guess i'm just lost... where do you see this in this thread? most of the posts in this thread have been kept to "Maximum Tire" fitment, not like the Wheel fitment thread where people are stretching tires with 5*+ of camber.

Originally Posted by drifter92

-3.0* is easy for me to notice... I run -0.5* on the rear of my s14 and -4.0* on the front for a flat contact patch at steering lock. This is a drift car though, not time attack.

regardless of how easy it is for you to see that amount of camber, tires still perform at that angle and most of these cars in this thread are not setup for drifting. you have a typical drifter setup with more camber in the front than rear but that doesnt benefit this thread by any means.

[drifter92]

Originally Posted by HighwaystarJC

I guess i'm just lost... where do you see this in this thread? most of the posts in this thread have been kept to "Maximum Tire" fitment, not like the Wheel fitment thread where people are stretching tires with 5*+ of camber.

regardless of how easy it is for you to see that amount of camber, tires still perform at that angle and most of these cars in this thread are not setup for drifting. you have a typical drifter setup with more camber in the front than rear but that doesnt benefit this thread by any means.

Yea only a few cars I have seen going through 50 pages have been cambered all retarded I was just frustrated seeing it. I guess I just had a biased view of most of these cars assuming they are drift cars because that's what my car is built for. Oh well no hard feelings, awesome thread! I am not going for maximum tire on my drift car because I don't have the power for it but I can post pictures of my brother's S14 with 17x8" +20 245/40/17 and 17x9" +35 275/40/17...

[zeitgeist]

For future references,

Im putting 255/18/35 on 9.5" wheels because these tires will be laying around.

I'm thinking about 275/18/35 on 10.5" in the rear. Is that ratio pretty close? I want to keep the 35 series as well

[Rick-95ZE]

Here's a repost of my baby and I'll be making some changes to this setup in the next few weeks :-)

Stock metal with roll& pull in the rear

Work Vs-XX
18x10(+25) front
18x11(+27) rear
265/35 /18 & 315/30/18 Falken Azenis rt-615's

[ka-titties]

wow that's insanely clean

[S14DB]

[silviaks2nr]

Great setup Rick! I've been tossing around the idea of going back to a shocks and springs setup for that reason.

[Rick-95ZE]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

wow that's insanely clean

I've had her since 2004, currently has only 86k original miles, and I'd like to believe that subtlety never goes out of style. Thank you :-)

Originally Posted by silviaks2nr

Great setup Rick! I've been tossing around the idea of going back to a shocks and springs setup for that reason.

Actually, I just switched to a coilover setup using Megan 25mm extension brackets to get the front coils to clear the inner rim lip, the rears clear just fine. I post some pics here in a few days.

Originally Posted by S14DB

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/2ltsrA7.png?1[/IMG

Huh, learned something new today,LOL. Thanks S14DB! Is that in the owners manual ???

[mad-ass]

I would much rather straighten out my pinch welds if they get bent rather than having a crunched up frame rails(they do get crunched up rather easy on jack stands). I've always lifted my car on rack by rail..until i saw that in the owners manual or chilton. Using a hocky puck with grooves cut out on them for a lift useage on pinch weld is a great idea btw.

[ka-titties]

hockey puck method ftw.

[simmode1]

Originally Posted by Rick-95ZE

Actually, I just switched to a coilover setup using Megan 25mm extension brackets to get the front coils to clear the inner rim lip, the rears clear just fine. I post some pics here in a few days.

OMG Finally! Someone with experience using those brackets! Please post pics & info! There is a complete lack of info available online about their benefits.

[greddy2die]

Originally Posted by simmode1

OMG Finally! Someone with experience using those brackets! Please post pics & info! There is a complete lack of info available online about their benefits.

i had them too, went to go install them one day and couldnt find them... FML

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by mad-ass

I would much rather straighten out my pinch welds if they get bent rather than having a crunched up frame rails(they do get crunched up rather easy on jack stands). I've always lifted my car on rack by rail..until i saw that in the owners manual or chilton. Using a hocky puck with grooves cut out on them for a lift useage on pinch weld is a great idea btw.

Yeah, you can see how the rails are overlapping. They are designed to deform in a crash. Easy to crush them by putting the weight of the car on them.

The pinch weld is joining the side and bottom of the car. It's the bottom of a thick tube than includes the door sill. You can lift all along the rail as long as you don't concentrate the weight to much. Why hockypucks with a slit in them are so great.

[mad-ass]

Originally Posted by simmode1

OMG Finally! Someone with experience using those brackets! Please post pics & info! There is a complete lack of info available online about their benefits.

those are used for people wanting to fit more wheel in the front. I wouldn't be in a such a hurry to buy them because they do change the suspension geometry quiet a bit. your shocks will be working in a different angle so you'll have to relearn the car quiet a bit IMO. Most cases, it's the coilover collars or the springs hitting the wheel/tire. If you can get a way with having a shorter spring on front coilover, I would do just that. but other wise...keeping the front mounting point for the shocks are pretty important to me. (unless of course you have adjustable FLCA and adjust accordingly...but at that point you will be running -LOLWUT camber in front.)

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by mad-ass

those are used for people wanting to fit more wheel in the front. I wouldn't be in a such a hurry to buy them because they do change the suspension geometry quiet a bit. your shocks will be working in a different angle so you'll have to relearn the car quiet a bit IMO. Most cases, it's the coilover collars or the springs hitting the wheel/tire. If you can get a way with having a shorter spring on front coilover, I would do just that. but other wise...keeping the front mounting point for the shocks are pretty important to me. (unless of course you have adjustable FLCA and adjust accordingly...but at that point you will be running -LOLWUT camber in front.)

I have to imagine they mess with your caster angle.

[spooled240]

I wouldn't mind having some more inner front wheel clearance so I've been thinking of using eccentric bolts where the coilover bolts to the spindle to essentially "push" the spindle away from the coilover. Then dial in more camber on the plate to compensate.

[mad-ass]

well, if you are doing it for wheel clearance..max it's going to give you is about 1/4~1/2inch MAX, in camber that's good amount of adjustment, but for clearance, it's not much IMO. Hyundai Genesis Coupe has this setup in the front.

[spooled240]

yeah i calculated that it would allow about 8mm of clearance with 3* of positive camber on the spindle. Not much, but it might be enough to make a difference

[Kuma]

Does a 305/30/18 safely fit on a 18x10? Or should I go 295/35/18? From the pics 30 series with max tire looks like a big enough sidewall to protect from most potholes, but some people on the internet say it's not safe.

[jr_ss]

You really need a 10.5-11" wheel for a 305. I have a 285 on a 10 and probably wouldn't go wider.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Kuma

Does a 305/30/18 safely fit on a 18x10? Or should I go 295/35/18? From the pics 30 series with max tire looks like a big enough sidewall to protect from most potholes, but some people on the internet say it's not safe.

If you are concerned about sidewall the 295/35 is a half inch bigger. But it is a taller tire also.

Specification  Sidewall  Radius  Diameter  Circumference  Revs/Mile  Difference
205/60-15         4.8in  12.3in    24.7in         77.6in        817        0.0%
285/35-18         3.9in  12.9in    25.9in         81.2in        780        4.7%
295/35-18         4.1in  13.1in    26.1in         82.1in        772        5.9%
305/30-18         3.6in  12.6in    25.2in         79.2in        800        2.1%

Originally Posted by jr_ss

You really need a 10.5-11" wheel for a 305. I have a 285 on a 10 and probably wouldn't go wider

Yeah that is minimum specs for most manufactures. Of course you can punch that out to 315 on a 10" for drag racing. What you are doing with the car does matter.

[Kuma]

Originally Posted by S14DB

If you are concerned about sidewall the 295/35 is a half inch bigger. But it is a taller tire also.

Specification  Sidewall  Radius  Diameter  Circumference  Revs/Mile  Difference
205/60-15         4.8in  12.3in    24.7in         77.6in        817        0.0%
285/35-18         3.9in  12.9in    25.9in         81.2in        780        4.7%
295/35-18         4.1in  13.1in    26.1in         82.1in        772        5.9%
305/30-18         3.6in  12.6in    25.2in         79.2in        800        2.1%

Yeah that is minimum specs for most manufactures. Of course you can punch that out to 315 on a 10" for drag racing. What you are doing with the car does matter.

Thanks guys.

DD tires, Don't want to chirp/spin my tires at every stoplight and don't want dent a wheel/blow a tire on these pothole ridden streets. 295/35 may be too tall. Guess I'll just go 285/35 and look for something sticky. My tire guy gets the best prices on tires but doesn't know anything other than how to undercut prices.

[jr_ss]

Food for thought, once you reach a certain tire diameter, you actually decrease available grip. A wider tire takes longer to heat up and keep it warm, so unless you're racing on a track, there is no need for 3xx sized tires.

[mad-ass]

how much power are you putting down? Just to think about it...GTO/LS2's came with 245's in rear(although most people go wider tires because no grip at full throttle), CTS-V's came with 285's...

I would say decent tire in 275's should be more than enough for daily duties.