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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 11-19-2008, 12:23 AM   #1
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Tourqe specs for ring gear?
for real though anyone got them???
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:59 AM   #2
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for real though anyone got them???
FSM says 130-145 ft-lbs.

You've used all your free hand outs.

Please get yourself a copy of the FSM before you approach any further.

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Old 11-26-2008, 06:20 PM   #3
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What size shims did use guys use because i dont want mine to act like a welded diff really but i dont want it to be weak sauce either. I was considering using a one 1.25mm shim. Any insight is appreciated
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Old 11-17-2008, 02:56 PM   #4
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just wondering...
after shimming your LSD, does anyone get a slight whine/rolling noise from it? its not loud, but its definitely audible.
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Old 11-17-2008, 03:06 PM   #5
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That whine/rolling noise is probably from improper gear mesh. I can't see how this is any good for the gears inside your differential.
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:49 AM   #6
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Old 08-09-2014, 05:48 PM   #7
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240's suck. BMW is #1
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:21 PM   #8
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240's suck. BMW is #1
Somewhat agree with you after reading some of the shit in this thread dedicated to the most brokedick ghetto mod there is.

Can't believe people still do this shit then act like binding up the spider gears in the diff increases the "lock" - grinding your spider gears away is not "locking" like an LSD does.

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Old 11-19-2008, 08:59 AM   #9
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Ring gear bolt torque specs are 130-145ft-lb
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Old 11-26-2008, 06:39 PM   #10
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you have to use the correct shims so the backlash is within stock spec.

edit, why not just buy a welded diff/get yours welded. this is ghetto and your old ass lsd is gonna break faster than normal.
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silviaguy240 View Post
you have to use the correct shims so the backlash is within stock spec.

edit, why not just buy a welded diff/get yours welded. this is ghetto and your old ass lsd is gonna break faster than normal.
does it lock just like a welded diff? I rather do this and get a 1.5 type around town than a fully locked diff.
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silviaguy240 View Post
you have to use the correct shims so the backlash is within stock spec.

edit, why not just buy a welded diff/get yours welded. this is ghetto and your old ass lsd is gonna break faster than normal.
I dont want a welded diff that shit is too brut for me right now I drive my car alot now and dont feel like dealing with that crap all the time.
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:29 AM   #13
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i say just add a 1.01 shim and you should be good even replacing the stock shim with a new one will not give you the lock up you want so just add a 1.01 and you should lock up pretty close to how a 1.5 locks up the only thing i dont know about this mod is how long you vlsd will last but from some of the people that have done this say the vlsd wont make any noises after breaking it in with a couple figure 8 patterns like some of the other members in this thread.

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Old 01-18-2009, 02:54 PM   #14
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:34 AM   #15
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A buddy of mine did this... We had allot of noise when the clutches engaged.
We used some chevy lsd additive and it cleared it up

Any1 else had a problem with this?
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:37 AM   #16
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A buddy of mine did this... We had allot of noise when the clutches engaged.
We used some chevy lsd additive and it cleared it up

Any1 else had a problem with this?
When the clutches engaged?

I didn't think there were CLUTCHES in a VLSD?
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:59 AM   #17
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When the clutches engaged?

I didn't think there were CLUTCHES in a VLSD?
so you're assuming he drives auto?
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:26 AM   #18
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so you're assuming he drives auto?
What?

Unless he has a multiplate clutch assembly, I don't see how there could be "CLUTCHES" on a car, unless he was talking about the LSD clutches, which an VLSD do not have.
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:44 AM   #19
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What?

Unless he has a multiplate clutch assembly, I don't see how there could be "CLUTCHES" on a car, unless he was talking about the LSD clutches, which an VLSD do not have.
My mistake* To my understanding I thought a vlsd was a clutch type..
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:42 AM   #20
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automatics have multiple clutches, though i am not sure if the nissan 240 automatic trans is that type..

it could also be a typo
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:28 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irax View Post
automatics have multiple clutches, though i am not sure if the nissan 240 automatic trans is that type..

it could also be a typo
go home! you're retarded! they are talking about the clutch type rear differential. not the clutch or the automatic clutch packs... learn please!
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:51 AM   #22
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go home! you're retarded! they are talking about the clutch type rear differential. not the clutch or the automatic clutch packs... learn please!
LOL! Really? sorry infliction and tone was illegible to you.
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:36 AM   #23
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where you add shims..do you have to shim the other side also or only the one side
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:51 AM   #24
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wtf are you talking about??? read the thread mr 1 post new guy.

the shim goes between the diff head and the viscous coupler.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:50 AM   #25
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wtf are you talking about??? read the thread mr 1 post new guy.

the shim goes between the diff head and the viscous coupler.
yeah i saw that but on another site they had the center section out. was just wondering
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Old 01-21-2009, 10:11 AM   #26
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The diff came from the factory with ONE (1) shim, you either replace that one or stack on 2 littler ones to get a thicker effective height, what is so hard to understand about this?
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:58 AM   #27
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The diff came from the factory with ONE (1) shim, you either replace that one or stack on 2 littler ones to get a thicker effective height, what is so hard to understand about this?
i understand it all. im not retarded. on another site the guy had the center section of the diff taken out where the spiders where showing..completely out. was just wondering..i get the fact that you dont have to
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:45 PM   #28
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Once that is completed, separate the cover like so and before you put the new sealant on remember to scrap off all old sealant and I recommend using brakecleen to clean surfaces before applying sealant back on.
those two rusted holes at the top are better for removing the cover, the cover hangs over the holes a tad, so you can take a flat head screw driver and pop off the cover without damaging anything.

paper gasket ftw
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Old 02-07-2009, 08:52 AM   #29
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:15 PM   #30
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Me and motegi did it at the same time.

Its pretty awesome, I snapped my axle boots and have a lot of play.

Don't forget to align the splines to the axles before you tighten down the phillips screws after putting in the shim, it keeps you from ahving to take everything apart.

But yeah, shim size can vary, me and motegi's had different shims from the factory (we assume), I just plopped a random old one i had in a junk vlsd i had sitting around, no problems, no whines, no issues.

I traded my welded out for that, and im a million times happier (although my welded had some backlash adjustment issues which annoyed me.)
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