Om1krons Build thread cause I hate the lack of them! S14

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

It's an ambient temp sensor off of a jdm s14 that had a digital climate control. It's one of the required parts for the digital climate control installation.

Is it higher resolution then the USDM one?

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Is it higher resolution then the USDM one?

Not too sure honestly, I'm sure if I had a chance to read it's serial number, it is most likely the same as the usdm counterpart.

[Om1kron]

So after getting everything said and done on the car it turns out that something is fucked up with my power windows. An important note, before troubleshooting any electrical, please identify what year model your car is by the sticker in the door, and not what is on your registration.

The 1995, and 1997 240sx S14 wiring is completely different for the power windows and located in entirely different sections of the FSM. The 1995 has it's own section for windows, locks, accessories in HF. The 1997 has the info in the EL section of the book and does not include the troubleshooting steps to test your system that the 1995 does.

So it's vital that you know this if you attempt to fix this matter.

I've already discovered the problem. But I will run you through it to see what I did to test and come to this conclusion.


So here I am again.


Notice the extreme excitement on my face.



So now, this crap is all in pieces.

The power window relay wire has 4 wires going to it.


(relay in question)

3. White/Red
2. Black
1. Green/Black
5.White/Black

I'll give you a breakdown of what it all means, ok Basil!


3. Function : This is the switched power to the windows, which isn't activated until you hit one of your up and down functions on either left or right windows.


It Goes to a 2 pin plug (M13) which has a circuit breaker on it (circuit breaker not pictured, but the plug is hanging there). On the other end of the circuit breaker is a 12ga blue/red (l/r) wire that goes to the male smj plug (M9) which connects to (E109). The blue/red wire on the female end of the SMJ (Super Multiple Junction) Goes to your engine bay fusebox to a 25amp fuse for constant battery power. I repeat, CONSTANT POWER.


In the FSM it is referred to as "i" in the fuseable link diagram. Which previously was in my engine bay, now inside of the car.

2. This is your constant ground.

1. is your ignition "on" 12v power, so you should only get power to the windows here
and last but not least.

5. goes to your power window switches. Driver and passenger side. If you know how a relay works, great, if not I'm not explaining it because I hate relays.

And that's that.

According to the fsm tests on the windows not working.

Number 3 on the power window relay is supposed to show battery voltage with the car on the off position, guess this is why I am having a problem.

It's showing continuity with a ground on the chassis. I know the wire is not exposed to anything but I cannot guarantee that the wire is not jointed with a ground somewhere, which is bad news.

Because I would have to take the whole dash out again to trace why this wire is grounding and where it's grounding.


It's also showing continuity from the fusable link, to the plug like it's supposed to. So I know the WRONG wire is not in place, but where it's grounding.

*shrugs*

beats me....

So I am going to tap into a constant power source somewhere else as a temporary fix, because not being able to roll up my windows is no bueno. My only concern is the 25 amp fuse that powers the relay, I think I'll wait for Jeff Jordan to give me his prognosis on how to wire it up to constant power. Knowing him he will tell me to eliminate the relay LOL!

I guess I'll go out there and do cool stuff like put my other ganador on and my rear bumper and side skirts.


Also ordered a new coil pack to replace a damaged one. I may be wrong, but I'm going to safely assume this is what's causing my break up. I actually noticed that sputtering back after I had the car parked and I pulled the s13 out for some fun while the sr20 was still in it. So it's not the gas, if it's not this then it's time to do a compression test to figure out where I am pressure wise.

Car ran fine before, so why it's being so weird now, not sure.

[RC1eightySX]

............

[OBEEWON]

Im fairly certain you could get over 25mph on one bad coil pack. Check a few other things while you wait for the replacement just so you don't waste time. After listening to the vid that def didn't sound like a prob confined to a single cylinder.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

Im fairly certain you could get over 25mph on one bad coil pack. Check a few other things while you wait for the replacement just so you don't waste time. After listening to the vid that def didn't sound like a prob confined to a single cylinder.

Well going through the gears I definitely can get the car up to speed, but I have no power past 2500rpm. Duffman said he had the same problem when he went downpipe only on his s14, but again I can't decide if that's the problem until I get my cat in.

The car broke up like this when it was in the s13 after it sat for a few weeks. Nothing was changed to the wiring.

It may also have too much oil in it.

But it doesn't explain why it's running so rich.

The temperature sensors for the engine are the only thing I can think of that may cause it to run in open loop mode, so the next time I run the car I will test the ecu temp sensor for a resistance load and just assume that the water temp sender for the gauge cluster is never ever ever going to work hence why the s13 was running an aftermarket meter.

This is pretty much how the motor ran before the car was stored for the second time.

green s13.

[S14DB]

Looking better!

Least your AC brackets fit...

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Looking better!

Least your AC brackets fit...

hahaha I just lol'ed in my garage.

[GSXRJJordan]

What FSM is that page from? Because if it's from a 95, you might have a power window amp on the other page that changes the duties of the switch a bit.

When I put power windows back in my S14, I used a 97+ switch, no power window amp, and a fused 25a lead coming into the switch. 2 wires to each window motor, DONE.

When I have some more time, I'll check my notes and see what's different about your setup from OEM. If you disconnect the "3" lead from the relay, and it's still showing ground, you obviously don't want to splice +12V into it... most likely you tested it with the relay connected, and it was "going low" through the relay or switch somehow, but is not truly a ground.

[Om1kron]

no, I tested continuity between 3 and the chassis and I got a beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep. and I tested continuity between the 25amp fused l/r wire, to the smj and got a beeeeeeep, and then tested it to my circuit breaker... beeeeeeep.

So if constant 12v, and ground are running on the same wire.... That could cause a problem for many things lol. And because it had a 25 amp fuse in there obviously it wont blow but the wire would melt eventually.

I dunno, but better safe than sorry, or a band aid until i pull the dash again.

it's ok, it's been bandaided for now, I tapped into the white power wire from the ignition that powers my turbo timer. So the windows only work when the car is in the ON position.

I have a completely different wire running from the M1 plug and have the original blue/red wire from the smj taped up and put off to the side....

I've also removed the 25amp fuse from my fusebox so the wire connected to it is no longer live.

[Om1kron]

posted up in the running rich thread.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Confusion, granted this is an old thread....

I will simply say. No they are not the same.


image borrowed from frsport. This is the water temp sensor from the s14 sr20 and the ka24de motors.

It requires a two pin plug with a push removal tab. I pulled one off of my ka24de harness and just changed it since the stupid sr connector needs one of those metal paper clip things to hold it on, it comes loose easy.

Testing it today reveals both the gauge sender temp wire is getting voltage, and the ecu temp sensor is also getting voltage and modulates as well so the ecu does see the engine temps.

oh.

This is the s13 sr20det one, and also ka24d


Sounds like the poster ended up buying this one instead.

I am having this problem as well, I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere, but not entirely sure.

I replaced a coil pack that was cracked, apparently that was not the problem, car is sparking fine, fuel delivery may be the issue but I had removed the injectors before from the intake manifold to clean it, and none of the o-rings were damaged.

timing is set perfectly.


The car idles fine at 800rpm, after revving it a few times it chills at 200 and slowly brings itself back up to 800rpm.

I don't think my IACV is the problem at all, but measuring voltage on my tps, I notice it did not change AT ALL.

I don't recall what it was, but having it probed, and then cranking the throttle the voltage did not change at all, but the wires are not shorted. I've tested them for continuity from the circuit board to the harness plug.

And again I got voltage, but it did not change.

My sr20 for some odd reason has a ka24de throttle body.

=/

I decided to take the car out for a spin.

I pulled out of my culdesac, and as soon as I did a cop car pulled out of the one I was headed to lol.

Mind you i'm coming at him looking like this.


and I round out the culdesac, he's parked waiting for me hahaha. So he follows me home because my car doesn't have any license plates on it. It's blowing black smoke through the exhaust pipe (that isn't even connected cause the cat is still not here.) and backfiring.

So he asks me if the car is registered?

I say. Yes, well, it's non op, been sitting in the garage for months.

He goes "oh, so you're just testing it, that's what I thought, cool have a nice one."

and takes off.

LOL I didn't even have my license on me, luckily the papers and plates are in the car's trunk.

So I'm stumped.

I think I'm going to try putting on the tps on my ka24de on this motor. But the more I think about it, I don't think I have a spare ka24de throttle body. I think I gave it to Luizgonz little brother a few months ago. *crosses fingers* lol.

I'll probably put the side skirts on and clean my garage and call it a day. Don't feel like doing anything else to the car really until I get some gas and a cat on this thing.

peace.

[NemeGuero]

YEESSSS!! God I miss my s14.

Ganadors do so much to the car..

[Om1kron]

lol, like side skirts. I got an hour and 20 minutes left to work on my car in my driveway lol.



oh and the new temp sensor plug.



well used but new to the SR....

[kalypso123]

its gonna look nice

[Logan]

Good lord you are lucky

Don't drive it on the street smart guy

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by Logan

Good lord you are lucky

Don't drive it on the street smart guy

I'm not worried about the police, never have been. the car was blowing black smoke and sounds like a school bus when it boosts... Maybe I'll change the gap on the plugs or something. =/

I'm not trying to be cool by saying i'm not worried about the police. My buddy used to be a bouncer at shamrocks in chino which a lot of the off duty officers went to. So we pretty much have get out of bullshit passes with the police.

[GSXRJJordan]

LOL, glad u didn't get popped. I guess those cops really aren't that bad if you have the tps plugged in, and it gets supply voltage, and you tap the signal wire from behind and it doesn't change as u open/close the throttle, get a new tps.

[Om1kron]

I think I understood that, I did feel like a dingleberry after remembering the tps sensor has 3 wires haha.

I am going to see if I can pull codes from the ecu's faulty light. Maybe it might be the knock sensor giving me problems due to the solid motor mounts.

[Om1kron]

Fuck my life... Honestly...

Pulled these codes from the ECU tonight.

12
13
34

I already know 34 is knock sensor, 12 is the MAFS, and 13 is the coolant temp sensor.

Knock sensor sends .16-234 when I tapped into it.

The TPS I tested anyway and that is good once I tapped into the signal wire it changed from like .600-1.245 while cranking it. So we're good there.

I dunno maybe the MAFS I bought is bad too.

Fuck FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK!!!!

I took my KA out for the same fucking codes. Honestly.

[S-Nation S13]

do get mad bro lol to be honest ive been reading this build for awhile now all i can say is that you have some dedication there your build has been a motivation for me i have a s13 coupe but regardless of the differences i to have been building my coupe

KEEP IT UP

[Homer_Simpson]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Fuck my life... Honestly...

Pulled these codes from the ECU tonight.

12
13
34

I already know 34 is knock sensor, 12 is the MAFS, and 13 is the coolant temp sensor.

Knock sensor sends .16-234 when I tapped into it.

The TPS I tested anyway and that is good once I tapped into the signal wire it changed from like .600-1.245 while cranking it. So we're good there.

I dunno maybe the MAFS I bought is bad too.

Fuck FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK!!!!

I took my KA out for the same fucking codes. Honestly.

Holy hell, I got the exact same codes when I did my swap a few months back. One reloomed harness and a few feet of brand new shielded wires later and all was good.

I used the same stuff you did you did to loom the harness, so I had to undo everything to fix those bastard codes.

[Om1kron]

yeah... Seriously.

I'm thinking of just unlooming the whole fucking thing again and replacing all of the shielded wire, matter a fact just making all of the wiring shielded. The maf plug I have on my car is fucked up and the pins don't really stay in place. You cant really de-pin those types of plugs

And yeah Bardabe said that 12 or 13 was actually the cam angle sensor which I would prefer that to be throwing something than the mafs.

It would make sense since I had the harness off of the car hanging over the side and let the e-brake down, and the car rolled over that particular harness plug cracking it lol.

[Homer_Simpson]

Yeah man, I've learned my lessons with this one. Wire --> Test --> Loom. I feel your pain. For what its worth, the knock sensor goes bat shit when not torqued down correctly. Good luck sorting it out man.

[Om1kron]

slowly moving.

Previously the car was running rich, pumping death smoke.

Now we just have a major boost leak, but I can rev this bitch out now.

pulling ecu codes.
Simone Video Blog - Throwing Codes on Vimeo

diagnosing code 12 (it's 14 minutes long fyi, but very informative.)
Simone Video Blog - Performing an ECU Diagnostic on Vimeo

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

slowly moving.

Previously the car was running rich, pumping death smoke.

Now we just have a major boost leak, but I can rev this bitch out now.

pulling ecu codes.
Simone Video Blog - Throwing Codes on Vimeo

diagnosing code 12 (it's 14 minutes long fyi, but very informative.)
Simone Video Blog - Performing an ECU Diagnostic on Vimeo

Awww I was hoping for burnout/quarter-mile vids by now... stop slackin, give the people what they want.

[Om1kron]

I took it out to the streets to rip it but that boost leak said FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK YOU!!! lol. I need to take the plugs out and clean them again. Hopefully that rich status didn't murk them.

[97nismo]

runny rich and hot seems to be a pattern with these SR motors

[Om1kron]

yeah but it's a lot of things that come into play with moving motors to different cars.

[Om1kron]

it's been a while, I'll save you the pictures and shit.

you want to read whats been happening you can head over to Simone : My 1996 240sx

in short.

engine runs
roof is off
paint was picked up today as well as detailing kit

color is magnetic black, g41, from the 370z.

should go in for paint after I get this roof off and get money to tow it.





if anyone has seen the color in person you know it's not "black" it's a very deep and dark grey with a silver flake/pearl combo in it.

I may add some more silver flake to the paint before it hits the booth, we shall see.

the car as it sits.





off to the garage to kill the remaining spot welds.

[Johny5]

why did you do that ?