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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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NONSTOP sr problems...
ever since i bought my car, it hasnt been running right. i purchased a s13 coupe base model with a stock s13 blacktop swap. the owner said it had a 255lph walbro fuel pump and a ACT clutch. i purchased the car and drove it 450 miles home. 100 miles from home, it spun a bearing and i had to tow it home. i pulled the motor and ripped it apart and guess what? it was a STOCK CLUTCH! what a freakin liar, so i pulled the fuel pump to see if it was even a walbro and it wasnt either... i then purchased a used shortblock, head gasket, s15 480cc's, z32 maf, safc2, PLX wideband, s14 t28, HKS turbo manifold, Greddy intake manifold, Blitz FMIC kit, Jun chromoly flywheel and an Exedy stage 2 clutch. i reassembled the engine and swapped it back in.
car doesnt seem to want to hit boost. i check the boost gauge and im seeing 6-7 psi but no power at all. i thot it was the knock sensor that was pulling timing but the knock sensor worked fine when i purchased the car... i changed it anyways. i am getting a lean spot at 2k-3k rpms in 5th gear at full throttle. even a 0% correction on 480cc's, the richest i can get the AFRs is 13.8's. after the 3k mark safc correction is -12% across the map and afrs is mid to low 11s. and now the HKS bov flutters while driving normally like its not opening all the way. it worked fine when i drove the car home. i have given up finding ehat the problem is... any help? i changed the knock sensor, coolant temp sensor, i set timing to 15btdc... does this sound like a boost leak to you? usually i thot boost leaks cause rich conditions but my afrs are fine while driving but i have no power when i hit boost. |
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#2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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If it were me, I'd change the injectors and maf back to stock and start from there. Also you didn't mention what kind of spark plugs and blow off valve you're using?
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1989 240sx XE|2002 Frontier SC CC LB 4wd|2011 Pathfinder LE V8 4wd |
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#3 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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i was running stock 370cc's before even after i changed everything. i thot the injectors were bad so i swapped in some s15 480cc's and still the same problem. spark plugs are ngk iridiums and bov is hks ssqv. i was running stock everything (maf, injectors, safc wasnt installed) and i still had the same problem.
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#5 |
Post Whore!
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you didn't mention adding an electronic boost controller. I'm guessing there could be a some creep issues. when i first got my sr swap, it felt like even when i did hit the full 7-8lbs stock boost, the power wasn't there and it took the turbo forever to spool. in my situation, adding an ebc helped a lot with the response of the turbo, and the 'butt dyno' gave the impression that the motor was a bit more powerful. could also be that the turbo is kinda old (have never seen s14 turbos sell for new) and needs a rebuild.
I'd also be skepticle of throwing so many other parts that may need tuining (maf, larger injectors safc, greddy im) before getting the motor to run right in the first place. now the problems you do have could be even more confusing. I think its always best to get an engine running the best it can in stock condition, before you begin upgrading parts that need proper tuning to work well. just throwing out some ideas. i'm not an expert. |
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#6 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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when i swapped the shortblock i purchased back in, the only changes were a greddy intake mani, hks turbo mani, and s14 turbo. stock everything else. ran like shit so then i later then swapped a z32 maf, s15 480cc's, safc2 and a walbro pump. still runs like shit.
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#7 | |
Post Whore!
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if you were going to do all that work to your car, whyd you buy a car from a guy who fucked you over in 3 ways.
check for boost leaks, check vaccuum, check ic piping. if one of your ic piping comes loose your car wont boost. do you have a boost guage? what does it read? whats your vacuum. whats your boost hitting at full throttle. blah blah. ive had issues some what similar to this before, and i figured it out. its always something simple.
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#8 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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i didnt know that the guy fucked me over until i got home? its not like i purposely wanted to buy a fucked up car. anyways....
boost gauge read 6-7 psi while boosting, but no power. vacuum gauge reads -17 at idle after warmed up. bov seems to flutter at anything under 4k rpms. seems like its not getting enough pressure to stay open. bov/hotpipe isnt bad or leaking because i swapped to a friends car and it worked fine and opened smoothly on his. |
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#10 |
Zilvia Junkie
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damm it that sux bro... hmmm id say check for leaks anywere ..do u have a stock fuel pressure regulator ?? my brother had the same problem he's running 740cc and a walbro fuel pump he changed his fpr cause u need one at the point he got a sard with a guage and he adjusted his pressure and walla !!!!! solved his problem , does it feel like if u gas it all the way u hit full boost and ur car doesnt really go any where? as if ur clutch was slipping kind off but not really? if so then id say that it .... also i doubt that greddy intake many is helping u at all maybe slowing u down i say that cause ur still obiously stock a friend put one in to his rb25 and actually showed a loss of power .. as far as i know there only good for maybe past 370whp++++ i dont know just my opinon .. hope u get it fixed soon, really sux ......
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#11 |
Zilvia Member
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i have an identical problem with my s13 sr, but maybe not as severe. it will hit full boost no problem but you can feel like there is no kick in the car, it will just accelerate like an old saturn while the turbo is screaming at 14 lbs. this doesn't happen all the time, but just random times throughout a day's driving. for fuel i have 370cc injectors and a walbro pump. i'm thinking it may be the plugs (i'm gonna go one step colder) possibly the maf, or fpr. i'll let u know when i find out.
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#14 |
Zilvia Junkie
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yes but the injectors a fuel pump will cause that to happen it happen to my brother he tried everything and at the end i changed that out and that solved the problem
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#16 |
Zilvia Junkie
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is the MAF pull through (turbo pull air through the filter and then MAF into it) or push through (anywhere before the intercooler or after as long as air gets pushed through it)
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#18 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Mine was doing the same thing when I first got it up and running, it was my stock bypass valve leaking anything about 3-4 psi. Other than that you haven't mentioned about your compression and leakdown test on the new block you put into your car. Perhaps a leak somewhere in there, maybe around intake manifold since you did install a greddy mani on there.
Oh and your bov fluttering anything below 4k rpm or whatever is okay, it just means there's not enough pressure to fully open up the blow off valve and that's why it flutters. How are your vacuum lines connected? Have you also tested your car with a different bov?
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1989 240sx XE|2002 Frontier SC CC LB 4wd|2011 Pathfinder LE V8 4wd |
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#19 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
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ive tested my entire hotpipe assembly with BOV on my friends car and it doesnt flutter at low boost like on my car. ill check the intake manifold for leaks. gotta check cam timing also.
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#20 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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your CAM timing is off a tooth. When you're hitting boost, it's making the pressure, but it's going pass the pistions. That's why it's not giving you the power/kick.
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