Damn it. More KA woes won't run - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

twofortyrida1388 · 05-11-2007, 06:24 PM

Now I will clarify from the beginning that this is my fault but it is something that is needed to be delt with. I found out my oil leak was coming from my timing cover. Sooo I pulled the valve cover off and the cover w/o marking the distributer and pulling it out first. I put it back together and it doesn't start. So I messed with the distributer for hours until I decided to pull the valve cover off to make sure it was at TDC on the compression stroke and not exhaust. The rotor button was in the right place and everything was torqued and plugged back in. I cranked it and it ran shitty and died. I've tried everything I could think of and nothing has worked. Its like its being flooded out. At one point I had it idling for a few minutes and as soon as I touched the pedal, it dies. Please help me out I'm tired of driving my gas hog truck.

twofortyrida1388 · 05-11-2007, 08:06 PM

Could I have done something to the CPS? I did get a code 11. After I erased it and TRIED cranking it again it didn't come back.

aznpoopy · 05-12-2007, 09:00 PM

probably still a timing issue.
it can be tricky if you haven't done it before.

search for resetting timing on any 240 forum for more info, or get a FSM and follow the procedure. installing the distributor is a little finnicky since it rotates when you slide it in.

twofortyrida1388 · 05-18-2007, 11:04 AM

Thanks man. I still don't have it running.

twofortyrida1388 · 05-29-2007, 08:34 PM

I put a new fuel filter and pump in and now I'm getting 37/40 psi idling. I still can't drive it because now it won't rev past 3900 and when I do get it there it backfires. I made sure it was tdc on compression and mad sure the the rotor button was pointed at the #1 wire terminal. But the only way it runs somewhat smooth is if the distributor is turned all the way to the right and still be able to put the bolts in. Its not throwing codes. Idle is very smooth, it sits right on 700 and I cant even see it lope or move at all. The only way it will rev is if I ease on throttle. If I try to punch it, it really backfiers and acts stupid. How can I see it timing if absolutley flawless? Oh and i can here a whirling noise coming from crank at about 2000/2500 rpm but then again my crank seal is bad. It doesnt vibrate or shake either. What could this be?

beetlejuice · 05-30-2007, 12:05 AM

Could be your MAF (usually the culprit for motors that don't like to rev).

You can try cleaning your MAF. Might be some buildup on the element.

Or try swapping your MAF with a friend.

Sometimes the connections can get screwy. Unplug, then plug in your MAF.

For timing, go to ka-t.org. There's a tech article over there that makes it easy. I used it when installing a new distributor on my s13.

beetlejuice · 05-30-2007, 12:06 AM

Also, check your throttle position sensor (TPS).

worangejuice · 05-30-2007, 12:14 AM

Fix the m 'fer SHIT!!!!

EDacIouSX · 05-30-2007, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twofortyrida1388

Now I will clarify from the beginning that this is my fault but it is something that is needed to be delt with. I found out my oil leak was coming from my timing cover. Sooo I pulled the valve cover off and the cover w/o marking the distributer and pulling it out first. I put it back together and it doesn't start. So I messed with the distributer for hours until I decided to pull the valve cover off to make sure it was at TDC on the compression stroke and not exhaust. The rotor button was in the right place and everything was torqued and plugged back in. I cranked it and it ran shitty and died. I've tried everything I could think of and nothing has worked. Its like its being flooded out. At one point I had it idling for a few minutes and as soon as I touched the pedal, it dies. Please help me out I'm tired of driving my gas hog truck.

the first car the KA was put in was not a truck! Anyway.... can't help you on that issue good luck.

twofortyrida1388 · 05-30-2007, 11:59 AM

The truck I'm driving has nothing to do with my ka. How do I "check" tps? I pulled the maf off a dohc with 160000miles on it and it is clean as a whistle. Still chromey looking on inside.

*MELLO*SOS* · 05-30-2007, 12:29 PM

Sounds like your timing is still off. Are you getting codes anymore?

You check the TPS by measuring it's resistance at closed & WOT, the FSM has the #s to check against. You can also measure the voltage signal it produces at idle, I think it should be .5v at idle.

twofortyrida1388 · 05-30-2007, 12:40 PM

No, no more codes. I dont have the fsm either.

*MELLO*SOS* · 05-30-2007, 01:21 PM

http://phatg20.net/modules.php?name=...ownload&cid=66

Get the 1994 fsm. Looks like it's a rar, you'll need www.winrar.com to uncompress it.

So your engine fires up, idles rough and dies if you touch the throttle? Or is it another issue now

twofortyrida1388 · 05-30-2007, 02:41 PM

Before it would idle rough and die but after I put in a homemade fuel pressure gauge I was only getting about 19psi idle so I then put in a new fuel pump and got about 38 idle and it ran. But then it was backfiring and wouldn't rev past 4k. I just went ouside and played with the rotor button after someone pointed out the markings on crank an bam, she runs perfect. Cranked on first turnover and I can stomp it and it barely boggs like before and revs much better. I still think my egr is leaking but I know there is a vac leak in back of intake mani because when I compression tested it I could hear a hissing back there. Oh but now my crank seal went out because after revving it for a while I had a puddle of oil the size of a shoe sole under crank. I think the crank has been the source for my oil leak this whole time as well.

nka203 · 05-30-2007, 02:50 PM

i had the same problem couldn't get my car to run for 2 days, it would start, ran shitty and died within a minute. it was very simple, i just pulled the distributor out, turned it slightly and put back in, and voila it ran perfect. it's probably a tooth or 2 off.

twofortyrida1388 · 05-30-2007, 02:53 PM

Its fixed now after the crank seal goes in.

05-11-2007, 08:06 PM	#2
twofortyrida1388 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Wilmywood, NC Age: 36 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Could I have done something to the CPS? I did get a code 11. After I erased it and TRIED cranking it again it didn't come back. __________________ Boost Coming soon...

05-18-2007, 11:04 AM	#4
twofortyrida1388 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Wilmywood, NC Age: 36 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Thanks man. I still don't have it running. __________________ Boost Coming soon...

05-29-2007, 08:34 PM	#5
twofortyrida1388 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Wilmywood, NC Age: 36 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I put a new fuel filter and pump in and now I'm getting 37/40 psi idling. I still can't drive it because now it won't rev past 3900 and when I do get it there it backfires. I made sure it was tdc on compression and mad sure the the rotor button was pointed at the #1 wire terminal. But the only way it runs somewhat smooth is if the distributor is turned all the way to the right and still be able to put the bolts in. Its not throwing codes. Idle is very smooth, it sits right on 700 and I cant even see it lope or move at all. The only way it will rev is if I ease on throttle. If I try to punch it, it really backfiers and acts stupid. How can I see it timing if absolutley flawless? Oh and i can here a whirling noise coming from crank at about 2000/2500 rpm but then again my crank seal is bad. It doesnt vibrate or shake either. What could this be? __________________ Boost Coming soon... Last edited by twofortyrida1388; 05-29-2007 at 09:40 PM..

05-30-2007, 12:05 AM	#6
beetlejuice Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Me? Posts: 145 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Could be your MAF (usually the culprit for motors that don't like to rev). You can try cleaning your MAF. Might be some buildup on the element. Or try swapping your MAF with a friend. Sometimes the connections can get screwy. Unplug, then plug in your MAF. For timing, go to ka-t.org. There's a tech article over there that makes it easy. I used it when installing a new distributor on my s13. __________________ jollydwarf.com

05-30-2007, 12:06 AM	#7
beetlejuice Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Me? Posts: 145 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Also, check your throttle position sensor (TPS). __________________ jollydwarf.com

05-11-2007, 06:24 PM	#1
twofortyrida1388 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Wilmywood, NC Age: 36 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Damn it. More KA woes won't run Now I will clarify from the beginning that this is my fault but it is something that is needed to be delt with. I found out my oil leak was coming from my timing cover. Sooo I pulled the valve cover off and the cover w/o marking the distributer and pulling it out first. I put it back together and it doesn't start. So I messed with the distributer for hours until I decided to pull the valve cover off to make sure it was at TDC on the compression stroke and not exhaust. The rotor button was in the right place and everything was torqued and plugged back in. I cranked it and it ran shitty and died. I've tried everything I could think of and nothing has worked. Its like its being flooded out. At one point I had it idling for a few minutes and as soon as I touched the pedal, it dies. Please help me out I'm tired of driving my gas hog truck. __________________ Boost Coming soon...

05-12-2007, 09:00 PM	#3
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 44 Posts: 5,013 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	probably still a timing issue. it can be tricky if you haven't done it before. search for resetting timing on any 240 forum for more info, or get a FSM and follow the procedure. installing the distributor is a little finnicky since it rotates when you slide it in.

05-30-2007, 12:14 AM	#8
worangejuice Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: WeeeHoooo,CA Age: 45 Posts: 1,519 Trader Rating: (10) Rides Gallery: worangejuice Feedback Score: 10 reviews	Fix the m 'fer SHIT!!!! __________________

05-30-2007, 11:59 AM	#10
twofortyrida1388 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Wilmywood, NC Age: 36 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	The truck I'm driving has nothing to do with my ka. How do I "check" tps? I pulled the maf off a dohc with 160000miles on it and it is clean as a whistle. Still chromey looking on inside. __________________ Boost Coming soon...

05-30-2007, 12:29 PM	#11
MELLOSOS* LAID OUT Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: LAS VEGAS Age: 43 Posts: 2,015 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: MELLO*SOS Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Sounds like your timing is still off. Are you getting codes anymore? You check the TPS by measuring it's resistance at closed & WOT, the FSM has the #s to check against. You can also measure the voltage signal it produces at idle, I think it should be .5v at idle.

05-30-2007, 12:40 PM	#12
twofortyrida1388 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Wilmywood, NC Age: 36 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	No, no more codes. I dont have the fsm either. __________________ Boost Coming soon...

05-30-2007, 01:21 PM	#13
MELLOSOS* LAID OUT Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: LAS VEGAS Age: 43 Posts: 2,015 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: MELLO*SOS Feedback Score: 1 reviews	http://phatg20.net/modules.php?name=...ownload&cid=66 Get the 1994 fsm. Looks like it's a rar, you'll need www.winrar.com to uncompress it. So your engine fires up, idles rough and dies if you touch the throttle? Or is it another issue now

05-30-2007, 02:41 PM	#14
twofortyrida1388 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Wilmywood, NC Age: 36 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Before it would idle rough and die but after I put in a homemade fuel pressure gauge I was only getting about 19psi idle so I then put in a new fuel pump and got about 38 idle and it ran. But then it was backfiring and wouldn't rev past 4k. I just went ouside and played with the rotor button after someone pointed out the markings on crank an bam, she runs perfect. Cranked on first turnover and I can stomp it and it barely boggs like before and revs much better. I still think my egr is leaking but I know there is a vac leak in back of intake mani because when I compression tested it I could hear a hissing back there. Oh but now my crank seal went out because after revving it for a while I had a puddle of oil the size of a shoe sole under crank. I think the crank has been the source for my oil leak this whole time as well. __________________ Boost Coming soon...

05-30-2007, 02:50 PM	#15
nka203 Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: CA Posts: 184 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	i had the same problem couldn't get my car to run for 2 days, it would start, ran shitty and died within a minute. it was very simple, i just pulled the distributor out, turned it slightly and put back in, and voila it ran perfect. it's probably a tooth or 2 off.

05-30-2007, 02:53 PM	#16
twofortyrida1388 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Wilmywood, NC Age: 36 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Its fixed now after the crank seal goes in. __________________ Boost Coming soon...