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Old 05-28-2007, 10:02 AM   #1
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RB25 swap over heating issue

hey guys finshed a series one rb25det swap into a 98 240sx. everting is great but it over heats in city traffic. i can go for abotu 30-45 mintues then ill have to pull over.
im running dual ten inch fans
a brand new rb25 thermostat
a hugee as fmic
eve9rythign is stock becsides the boost contolller set at 10 psi and a greddy intake manifold and a walbro fuel pump.


HELPP what do i doo to make it not overheat lol i know i sound liek a noob but i am lost since in toronto no one has really done the swap and no info.

thanks
mikey
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:12 AM   #2
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you are probably heat soaking the radiator, are you sitting in traffic for 30-45 minutes, or are you driving? make sure you have bleed the coolant system and it's free of air bubbles. what radiator are you using? the stock ECR33 or S14? how many CFM's do your fans flow?
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:20 AM   #3
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even if he's running stock radiator, it shouldnt overheat just sitting in traffic. Try bleeding the system or make sure your thermo is opening.
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:23 AM   #4
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im running a s14 kouo rad
and the fans im running are the flexi elite 10inch dual fans but no shroud
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:23 AM   #5
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s14koyo*
and sitting in traffic at a stop and go
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonshinekouki View Post
im running a s14 kouo rad
and the fans im running are the flexi elite 10inch dual fans but no shroud
again, have you bled thes system? Also, how old is your water pump? You probably should have just replaced that when you had your engine out of the car. Ducting/shrouding is EXTREMELY important in cooling. I can't stress that enough. Without ducting/shrouding the fans are just sucking air from outside of the radiator, not through it. Air will always take the path of least resistance, so by ducting/shrouding you made the easiest possibly way for the air to escape is to go right through the radiator.
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:27 AM   #7
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i have a brand new water pump/ brand new thermo stat/ system was bleed multipleof times still the same. the fans i got were duplicates of flexilite fans but with out shrouds

damn it im so lost.

tahnks for the help guys
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Old 05-28-2007, 05:10 PM   #8
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k i bleeded the system and its still over heating.....
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Old 05-28-2007, 06:06 PM   #9
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i gottta a koyo s14 sr20 radiator. brand new never used. it will work with your rb25. let me know. my rb25 stays cool. im running a koyo radiator/dual fal fans running full-time.
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Old 05-28-2007, 06:12 PM   #10
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why dont you let us know your steps to bleeding your coolant system
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:04 AM   #11
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what kind of fans are you using yum-yuum?

how should i be bleeding my coolent system?
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:07 AM   #12
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try swaping the gauge sensor, (happened to my friend once, sensor went bad ahd funny readings) and if it still overheats. then eh. post pics and I'll see what I can find wrong.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:31 PM   #13
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well i do feel alot of hot air comming out of the engine bay
ill post pics up

thanks
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:22 PM   #14
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ok so its heat soke thats causing everythign to over heat.
im runnin two ten inch pusher fans
is ther anythign else i can do to get rid fo the heat /????

pics




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Old 05-29-2007, 02:25 PM   #15
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put an additional puller fan on the back of the radiator and make sure the one that is pulling is a higher CFM than both 10inch fans.

Also get a lower thermostat and if you can afford 100 bucks pick up one of the coolant swirl tanks, it works great on my track car and a couple other cars Ive used it on.

we were having an issue like this ona friends car at the track recently.

1. get more air to the front of the car/ bigger mouth bumper, make sure the IC is not painted or rad etc.
2. vented hood helps in high temp track scenarios.
3. EMS? I know, but sometimes dpending on modification an improper tune or fuel map can cause the motor to run HOT.

If this is a reacurring issue, and poofs of white smoke start to appear out the tail i would suggest a leakdown/comp test when the car is ice cold.
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:26 PM   #16
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will the coolent swirl tanks make a big differnce?
wat fan would u recemond?
thanks bro
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonshinekouki View Post
will the coolent swirl tanks make a big differnce?
wat fan would u recemond?
thanks bro
coolant swirl tank constantly bleeds air out of your line. when PROPERLY installed they work great to keep hot air pockets out of the system.

Black Magic fan or something from FAl should do the trick, just find out how much air your 10 inch fans move, and get somethig better.

Summit should tell you what their fans pull in air mass, and so should the box or directions from the fan kit you already have.
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:35 PM   #18
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ok thanks bro
its going to be hard for me cuz im in canada lol
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:42 PM   #19
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my intercooler is painted wiht a logon on it. its not aht big thoo

liek me driving ont he highway is fine but once its stop and go traffic it gets hottttttt
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:50 PM   #20
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Are your fans on a thermostat?

Are your fans wired correctly (push instead of pull)

Are your fans right on the face of the radiator?

Try to do everything you can to direct airflow through the radiator instead of up and over it... Or around the sides of it.
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:52 PM   #21
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theres only one setting on the fans and they are on all the time
and i have an oem hood.
alot of ppl are saying i need a vented hood is this true also?
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:00 PM   #22
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No you don't "need" anything like that. Sure it'll help a little with heat soak, but the majority of RB swaps are running just fine with a stock hood and some combo of e-fans and KA radiators. It seems most use the dual FALs on a Koyo with a stock hood and a huge FMIC and have no overheating problems.

Hey how is the radiator cap thats on your rad? If it's bad you won't be able to build pressure in your cooling system, and you'll overheat quickly. If it's not brand new you might want to think about picking up a new 1.3 bar cap off ebay or wherever.

Did you replace your water pump before you did the swap?

Just to confirm, the fans are blowing thru the radiator and not blowing towards the fmic right... GL

Also what brand/model/CFM are your 10" pushers?
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:04 PM   #23
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i totally forget whawt brand the fansa dn waht cfm they are.
im pretty srue th fans are blowiing through the rad
its a brand new rad aslo
and the waterpump was replaced when i swapped the motor it
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:09 PM   #24
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Quote:
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im pretty srue th fans are blowiing through the rad

thats like very very important

haha
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
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i gottta a koyo s14 sr20 radiator. brand new never used. it will work with your rb25. let me know. my rb25 stays cool. im running a koyo radiator/dual fal fans running full-time.
SR20 rad will NOT work with an RB. you need a KA rad. the inlets are backwards on an Sr.
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:19 PM   #26
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SR rad will sorta work but then you have to run the stupid crossover pipe which probably won't clear the FMIC piping or in his case the BOV

Hey moonshine depending on your climate you can try running like 85% water 15% coolant with water wetter and a higher pressure cap (assuming yours is <= .9 bar).

I think ultimately you're just not getting enough CFM from those 10" fans at idle/low speed... Might have to bite the bullet and spring for 12s.

GL
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:44 PM   #27
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Let me sum it up plain and simple and yes I have tons of experience here.
Get rid of the suck ASS Koyo . They heatsoak after 20 minutes. If your going to go Aluminum get a Griffin or Fluidyne they are much superior to Koyo and do not heatsoak. Plus they run 10 degrees cooler than a Koyo because of better design. Ok I don't want to here arguements about this because I went through it, I know!
Koyo's suck end of story, so no whiny shit from SR owners about how your Koyo works fine. They may work fine with your 2 liter 4 cylinder that does not need as much cooling power, but they are basically a poor design sold cheap. End of story.
Steve and Mello both are correct besides your radiator heatsoak issue you definitely have a CFM issue . Unless those 10's are FAL's they are probably not pushing enough CFM. Dual FAL's are rated at 2500 cfm which would be enough for you. Either uprate your fans or even stick a stock s14 radiator in which is actually large enough with a pair of FAL pullers on the engine side and you would be good.
P.S. Hood vents due help but you you need to address the other issues first.
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Old 05-29-2007, 07:01 PM   #28
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i run a Ka koyo with my 25. hmmm, hope i dont run into any issues. i'll definately keep that in mind though if i start to see an increase in temps.
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Old 05-29-2007, 08:48 PM   #29
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ok so i should be lookin for new fans?
my fans rihgt now are not shrouded or ducted
i should go and try to find out what fans they are damn it
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Old 05-29-2007, 08:55 PM   #30
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I had the same problem when I first did my swap. Did you swap over your stock temp sensor? I was running dual 12" fans with the stock s14 rad and a nismo thermo it was no good. So i upgraded to an n1 water pump with a greddy radiator. I've had no problems with heating what so ever since then, even at the track. If youre going to track the car, i recommend you upgrade the radiator.
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