Weight reduction.

[DSC]

Well, I drove a 2300lb car today. damn it!
I know I'll never hit that weight but if I could drop another 50-100lbs I'd be really happy...for a while at least.

What I've already done is scrap out the sound deadening tar from the cars inside floors and rear seat area. Also gutted the trunk to bare metal. W/out removing any seats or carpet (want the interior to look normal) how can I drop some weight?

My only current idea is removing the AC...but I like ac, a lot, so it would have to go back in once it started getting hot outside again. I'm relocating the batter to the trunk (again) so that'll be good for weight distribution.

What else can I do to drop some weight off the car for free or very cheap?

[Archangel]

Not much left for free or cheap, but here's a few.
Floor mats - remember there is carpet under there still.
Stereo - head unit speakers, amps
  or just the factory amps if you're not using them.
Loose the spare tire and jack.

Other than that you go expensive - carbon fiber hood, fiberglass panels.
and I believe and sr20 wieghs less than the ka

[adey]

Forged Magnesium alloy rims. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>
Seats (replace with reclining/racing buckets)
replace suspension components with aluminium adjustable units
Smaller/lighter battery
That's all I can about think of!

[goodjuan]

remove all but driver's seat, remove ceiling upholstery(less topheavy too LOL), ever consider a diet?? &nbsp;(not sure how much you weigh but you could be healthier AND lighter too&#33<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>, &nbsp;

If your gonna spend mondo bucks to reduce weight put it where it will count more, like rotating stuff...wheels and flywheel.

[Archangel]

Unfortunately DSC, youve done all the easy ones.
If you want to loose another 100 lbs, you either have to spend some cash, or start striping out the interior or luxury items like ac and stereo.

[HippoSleek]

I agree that you've hit the cheap ones that don't sacrifice drivability. &nbsp;Next you are looking at things like windshield washer bottle, AC, power steering, stereo/amps, etc.

On the other hand, there are also some more expensive ones coming up that also get you hp <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> &nbsp;OEM Exhaust (manifold & cat back) weighs a TON. &nbsp;S14 alloys are already quite light, so that sucks (for weight reduction <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> &nbsp. &nbsp;Seats (s14 seats aren't really THAT heavy either). &nbsp;Okay, so maybe 50-75 lbs from exhaust stuff.

[kandyflip445]

you could remove your steering wheel! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'> Nah...I can't think of any cheap ones but for some $$$ you could get lexan windows....that would take of a LOT of weight <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cool.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Archangel @ Nov. 14 2002,04:44)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">and I believe and sr20 wieghs less than the ka</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Yup, the sr weighs less than the KA, by 3 pounds. &nbsp;Nobody really wants to spend $1000 per pound for weight loss.
-Jeff

[onefast240]

I don't know how safe you want your car but you can remove a good part of the metal behind the door panels and rear panels as well as the door beams. I would only recomend this for a TRACK USE ONLY car and not a street car. Depending on how much metal you remove from behind the panels you should still be able to get them back on. Lexan windows will also drop weight as well as a cabon fiber hood and dash.

[Steeles]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (onefast240 @ Nov. 14 2002,11:22)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I don't know how safe you want your car but you can remove a good part of the metal behind the door panels and rear panels as well as the door beams. I would only recomend this for a TRACK USE ONLY car and not a street car. Depending on how much metal you remove from behind the panels you should still be able to get them back on. Lexan windows will also drop weight as well as a cabon fiber hood and dash.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
theres also those big heavy bumper supports. &nbsp;just dont hit anything. &nbsp;theres evidently a bunch of usless wiring running through the car if your really ambitious, along with all the emmissions stuff under the hood. &nbsp;get a smaller battery, swap out your power windows for some manual ones thats gotta save a few lbs right? &nbsp;clutch fan fan shroud all that should be gone. &nbsp;someone in Atlanta has his S14 down to I think at last weigh in 2660

[Replicant_S14]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">someone in Atlanta has his S14 down to I think at last weigh in 2660</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

Haha, yeah but Russ is a fanatic. You could raise a small family in his engine compartment.

All kidding aside tho, he's done beautiful work to that car. It's subtle too. I guess it's my favorite 240 that I've seen in our group.

[nrcooled]

DSC you are a track rookie such as myself. I wouldn't worry so much about weight reduction as I would technique. Work on your driving style and learn to drive what you have well. Then you can know exactly what you want to do to the car and spend your money in the most vital (to you anyway) places.

That is what I am doing currently....except for the shocks and springs <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sarcasm.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':sarcasm:'> oh and the short shifter <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'> then there was the rear strut tower brace <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/lookaround.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':look:'> but I swear that's it *cough*flywheel*cough*

[wpayne]

Let's see, I know in Japan there are special windows made out of a very strong plastic but is clear just like glass windows, and they make them for race cars. You can also save with carbon fiber doors,. Yes, they have them made but'll cost you near $10,000. I've see a GT-R with them. Carbon fiber hood. Thats all I can think of right now...

[LanceS13]

The battery will be the next easiest/cheapest thing to look at. &nbsp;A friend of mine gave me a link to a 13lb. battery for $70 but I lost it. &nbsp;He's got one in his Focus. &nbsp;I'll probably see him this weekend and get it from him again. &nbsp;That's like a 20lb. savings right there alone. &nbsp;Now, leave it in the stock location so you don't have to add 20lb. of 0 gauge battery cable, a 3lb box, and half a lb. of bolts and fasteners. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

[Killer Kane]

Some may say that these suggestions are controversial, but:
>Remove one lugnut from each wheel
>Get a haircut
>Take off those heavy tire valve caps
>Drive naked

Don't worry about what the other drivers say. &nbsp;They're just jealous that they didn't think of these first.

[Steeles]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Replicant_S14 @ Nov. 14 2002,12:04)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Haha, yeah but Russ is a fanatic. You could raise a small family in his engine compartment.

All kidding aside tho, he's done beautiful work to that car. It's subtle too. I guess it's my favorite 240 that I've seen in our group.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
lol yeah two small people can actually stand in his engine bay with the car running... its pretty sick. but that car will make you jealous sometimes

I didnt realize that was you Jason till I saw the link. &nbsp;lol

[HippoSleek]

oh boy &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/eh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':eh:'>

1. &nbsp;Door beams, etc. are required for safety. &nbsp;And FWIW, at the "track" you must have those PLUS a heavy roll cage with additional "door bars."

2. &nbsp;2660 is totally reasonable. &nbsp;I can't recall the ITS weight for a 240, but iirc, it is around 2550. &nbsp;Fan/shroud is a good one.

3. &nbsp;Lexan windows are great... for a full blown race car. &nbsp;They don't go up and down, don't do well in glare or rain, and are totally illegal in a street car. &nbsp;Also not even allowed in SCCA IT classing.

4. &nbsp;Carbon fibre panels. &nbsp;Are you kidding? &nbsp;Why not just tube frame the 240... it would probably be similar cost, but much safer.

5. &nbsp;Miata battery. &nbsp;Dry cell = light.

6. &nbsp;Miata. &nbsp;2260 lbs - w/ driver <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

[Tubed4evr]

A header is also MUCH lighter than the cast iron exhaust manifold so you win in 2 areas there with weight and power.

[240 2NR]

Well all that wonderful blue paint on your car isn't exactly as light as air. &nbsp;That's sure to be good for 10-20lbs. &nbsp;If I recall, that's how the Mercedes silver spur was started. &nbsp;2lbs over race weight, so they stripped the paint.

If you ever get bored with the 240, I've got another project car that should keep you busy for a while.



Lard ass

[azian21485]

u can go on a diet urself...carbon fiber...lighter rims....or juss go out and buy a 88 honda crx hf which weights 1800 lbs =)

[91CRXsiR]

yes yes , i would go w/ the 88 CRX HF .. but thats just me...

damn how much do S14's weigh? 2600 is light?!.. how much does a 89 stock RPS13 SE weigh?

have you removed youir power steering? cruise control? sunroof motor/controls? lighter shift knob?

[LanceS13]

Anyone happen to know how much the hood bracing frame weighs?

[wherezmytofu]

how much $ u got?

-cf hood, fenders,doors, trunk, front and rear bumper covers, interior panals
-take off front an rear bumper
-all molded light plastic grass crap &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

[DSC]

"What I've already done is scrape out the sound deadening tar from the cars inside floors and rear seat area. Also gutted the trunk to bare metal. W/out removing any seats or carpet (want the interior to look normal) how can I drop some weight?"

heh, not to be an ass but its funny the most recommended thing was removing spare tire and shreading interior. Since my trunk is down to the metal...nothing rear of the back seats but wireing for the lights [ie: no spare or jack or tools or carpet or anything]. &nbsp;
Tho unfortionately it looks like sacrificing comfort is the only way to really get lighter w/out spending money.

Next would be money stuff...cf hood, light weight seats (~10-15lbs vs 25 or whatever stock weighs each), of course light weight suspension/rims are always nice and exhaust/header and stuff. &nbsp;Though I didn't realize aftermarket exhaust stuff was that much lighter...too bad its low weight, but weight is weight to a point.

Going on a diet myself would be a good idea, but (and the people on here who know me in RL I think would agree) I don't really have many pounds to spare...I wouldn't think losing more than 5-10tops would be healthy <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> I'll just make sure to take a shit before I race, lol.

I guess I'll try removing the AC, see how hard it is. I still can't get my power wire thought the damn firewall for the battery relocation...I've had like sixty million different people help me and I just can't get it <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cry.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

[logo20]

-fiber glass hood
-aluminum radiator, i don't even know if they sell them for our cars
-back seat, it would look normal but just different
-aluminum valve cover?
-headers, oem headers are heavy

[West]

Remove your rear seatbelt setup, they weight like 5+lbs or so. I did that in my old 240 and am going to do it to mine this weekend. Noone belongs inthe back of a 240 anyways.

I want to remove my AC as I cannot stand AC, its gives me a headache. Does anyone know how hard this is to do? I really want to do it but would like some direction on how to do it. DSC, if you remove yours make sure and document it as you do with all your installs/uninstalls <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> Thanks!

[240 2NR]

I'd think the only tricky parts of an AC uninstall would be depressurizing it (properly) and getting at all the parts to remove them. &nbsp;I've been tempted to get rid of mine but on occasion it really has proved useful (like long sunny trips, or when the windows fog up when it's raining). &nbsp;Otherwise it's a worthless 30 lbs that only reduce the airflow over your radiator.

The rear seatbelts are a good idea (mine made room for a harness bar that seems to do a good job of stiffening the rear c-pillars in the off season)

The hatchback has a few nice removable bits, like the sunroof, and rear trunk cover, in additon to the spare, jack etc. &nbsp;I'd say my race weight is probably an easy 100lbs off street mode.

Really I think you're at the stripped interior stage DSC. &nbsp;Kind of sucks, but if you really get serious you stand to lose another hundred punds easy from carpet, consoles, and stereo equipment. &nbsp;This is why I want another S13 to make my track whore. &nbsp;Something cheap I can ball up and write off if need be. &nbsp;

If you're not that serious, I think you need to start spending money. &nbsp;Things like a dry cell battery would be a cheaper start and may be good for 20lbs. &nbsp;I think there are gains to be made in the exhaust, but don't forget the new one has weight too, so I'd guess that to be 20lbs at best (plus it's so low). &nbsp;I know for my car a rear lexan panel on the hatch would be killer. &nbsp;There's probably a few emmisions controls you could ditch (like the charcoal canister). &nbsp;While some make huge gains in the reduction of emmisons, some seem pretty worthless and cluttersome.

[bbp]

DSC,

There have been some very good suggestions already. &nbsp;

Removing the AC- Please take it to a shop and have it discharge properly. &nbsp;Once you remove all the parts, condenser, compressor, exchanger ender dash and associated piping plug ALL the holes in the system. &nbsp;This way you can sell the system or reinstall it at a later date. &nbsp;If you do not plug it up, it will ruin the components. &nbsp;

Also consider resale, &nbsp;at somepoint you will hit the crossroads where the changes you are about to make will significantly reduce the value of the car as a street car (removing ac, gutting interior). &nbsp;Just something to think about.

One of the best weight reductions you can do for performance is light weight wheels. &nbsp;Reduce unsprung weight. &nbsp;Get some lightweight wheels and some hoosier R compound tires. &nbsp;

Other ideas include - replace seats with 1 piece lightweight seats. &nbsp;Remove ABS pump-if equipped. &nbsp;

I have had a hell of a time getting my race car down to legal race weight. &nbsp;I am still over by about 150 pounds. &nbsp;I am going to remove the ABS system this winter and replumb it. &nbsp;This is where it gets to be a pain in the ass and also gets very expensive for very very small gains. &nbsp;Before you go tearing up a nice street car, invest the money into yourself and drivers education (I know you are from some of our offline messages ;-) &nbsp;This will be the best money spent. &nbsp;You are still not at the limit of the car as it sits. &nbsp;

I hope this helps... 1 more thing, if you want to go road racing in a 240sx, my ITS car is probably going up for sale or rent this season. &nbsp;I have TWINS on the way, due in Feb/March. &nbsp;Let me know if anyone is interested.

Seeya!

[HippoSleek]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (bbp @ Nov. 15 2002,07:25)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">DSC,

There have been some very good suggestions already.

Removing the AC- Please take it to a shop and have it discharge properly. Once you remove all the parts, condenser, compressor, exchanger ender dash and associated piping plug ALL the holes in the system. This way you can sell the system or reinstall it at a later date. If you do not plug it up, it will ruin the components.

Also consider resale, at somepoint you will hit the crossroads where the changes you are about to make will significantly reduce the value of the car as a street car (removing ac, gutting interior). Just something to think about.

One of the best weight reductions you can do for performance is light weight wheels. Reduce unsprung weight. Get some lightweight wheels and some hoosier R compound tires.

Other ideas include - replace seats with 1 piece lightweight seats. Remove ABS pump-if equipped.

I have had a hell of a time getting my race car down to legal race weight. I am still over by about 150 pounds. I am going to remove the ABS system this winter and replumb it. This is where it gets to be a pain in the ass and also gets very expensive for very very small gains. Before you go tearing up a nice street car, invest the money into yourself and drivers education (I know you are from some of our offline messages ;-) This will be the best money spent. You are still not at the limit of the car as it sits.

I hope this helps... 1 more thing, if you want to go road racing in a 240sx, my ITS car is probably going up for sale or rent this season. I have TWINS on the way, due in Feb/March. Let me know if anyone is interested.

Seeya!</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Glad to see you could make it Mike. TWINS - dear god. Congratulations! ...and sorry about the racing budget. &nbsp;And a due date right at the start of the season... &nbsp;Someone needs to work on "family planning" (like a nice Dec. due date) <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> &nbsp;.

I'll second the "properly remove AC" bit - when I was helping w/ a swap, some jackass just opened up the line! Not cool.

I also whole heartedly agree w/ the "don't make your first car a race car" sentiment. I left my 240 largely stock and will now be able to sell it as largely stock. Once I put some OEM t/c rods in it and the OEM pads on, there will be nothing to hint that it has been on track. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

I don't like the recomendation of putting a novice on Hoosiers (either for your budget or your instructors' sense of well-being... not to mention how much better it is to learn to drive a crappy car smooth).

More seat time and your car will feel lighter.

[Steeles]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (DSC @ Nov. 15 2002,01:07)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I guess I'll try removing the AC, see how hard it is. I still can't get my power wire thought the damn firewall for the battery relocation...I've had like sixty million different people help me and I just can't get it <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cry.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
why you trying to run it through the firewall?!?! &nbsp;easiest way to run it is zip tie the silly thing to the brake lines <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> &nbsp;tucked under the frame with them it wont get damaged and is MUCH easier to run that way. &nbsp;thats where mine is. &nbsp;just an alternate idea. &nbsp;youd really have to hit something funky to hurt the wire there.