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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Q: Off Alignment
Hi everyone, I just install my Greddy Type S coilover, drop it low and camber. and Now my car's alignment is off to the LEFT. so is the a special degree or number i need to know to get my car alignment by Tire Plus. Any suggestion, please help me out. Thank U.
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#3 |
Post Whore!
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If you just take it to a normal alignment shop and pay for a normal alignment they will just align it as close to factory specs as possible. Are you looking for the factory specs? The alignment shop will have access to those numbers. Are you looking for reccomended custom alignment specs? If so we need to know what you want to use the car for as the alignment will differ depending on the application.
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#5 |
Post Whore!
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If you just wanna drive around town and are not really interested in track/autocross or drift then yes just get the factory specs. If you get really into track or drift you can always get it re-aligned. The factory specs will satisfy 90% of drivers. Keep in mind that unless you have adjustable arms they will not be able to get it back to factory and probably not even close to factory specs.
EDIT: Since you still have 100% stock suspension basically all they can do is set the front end up to stock (if your coils have camber plates) and set the rear close enough to drive straight. |
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#7 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
up front i like a slight bit of toe in and about 2 degree of camber. i noticed it keeps the front end going straighter on the freeway keeps it solid. caster depends, slight bit more caster then stock is good. |
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#8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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i would do what white says but maybe a little less camber in the front just for tire longevity but then you could just do 0 camber all around with 0 toe, for theoretically, the best tire life and people would make fun of you cause your car doesn't look "cool" with 0 camber lol
and i just realized that you don't have aftermarket arms so you will just hope to get as close as possible to factory specs and MAKE SURE they get close to the same specs on both sides (left and right) |
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#9 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
Touring: Front: Camber: -1.5 deg Caster: L+7.5/R+7.0 deg Toe: 0.0mm Rear: Camber: -1.0 deg Caster: n/a Toe: 1mm in Sport: Front: Camber: -2.0 deg Caster: L+7.5/R+7.0 deg Toe: 0.0mm Rear: Camber: -1.25 deg Caster: n/a Toe: 0.5mm in Factory: Front: Camber: -1.50 to 0.0 deg (-0.75 deg nominal) Caster: 6.00 - 7.50 deg (6.75 deg nominal) Toe: 1.5 - 3.5 mm in, (2.5 mm in nominal) Rear: Camber: -1.67 to -0.67 deg (-1.17 deg nominal) Caster: not adjustable Toe: 0.0 - 5.0 mm in, (2.5 mm in nominal) Doing this job I saw the chassis flex, right at the cowl/windshield to engine bay...I want to give SPLPart's front fender braces a try definitely...just don't want to deal with fender pulling now and the paint touching up required. November 15, 2004: I went with this alignment recommendation: Front: Camber: -2.0 deg Caster: L+7.5/R+7.0 deg Toe: 0.0mm Rear: Camber: -1.25 deg Caster: n/a Toe: 0.5mm in
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Now my Kensai, I curse you to be a Ronin and with the my remaining spirit I, beseech Chimata-No-Kami, to have you wander through time and distance lands, seeking a new master. |
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#10 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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i am in the same boat. i am figuring on have everything set as close to factory as possible but then run about -2 degrees of camber all the way around.
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#11 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I have adjustable arms front/rear so I can do any specs that's good, so I guess -2/-1 F/R camber and +8.5 caster
how come whiteline recommend different caster for L/R? |
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