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Old 01-22-2009, 05:48 PM   #1
bigboto_boy
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help clutch pedal

so i recently rebuild my clutch master cylinder with the rebuild kit
bleed it to much air in the system so i brought it to a shop which is right in back of my house they bleed it and they said they is no more air in the system but it still doesnt work clutch pedal stays half way down and doesnt go in gear they said my slave was still good but what can be the problem ?

tranny fuild ?
throw away old cmc and get a new master ?
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Old 01-22-2009, 11:06 PM   #2
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Bypass the clutch dampener (search this forum for it) or you are going to bleed through about two bottles of hydraulic fluid.
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Old 01-22-2009, 11:12 PM   #3
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Yeah trash the dampener
You'll get your clutch bled real quick after that
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Old 01-23-2009, 11:55 AM   #4
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so do i still have to get a clutch master cylinder ?
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Old 01-23-2009, 12:05 PM   #5
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I don't think so
Just trash the dampener and see if you can get the clutch back to normal
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Old 01-23-2009, 12:12 PM   #6
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what can be the problem ?
I generally do not like to rebuild the clutch master. It's much better to buy a new OEM, not rebuilt, but new OEM from an authorized Nissan dealer. I think we talked about this earlier.

As for the clutch damper, remove.

As for the slave, at least check for leak. I recommend a Nismo slave.

Also check the hardline itself for kinks and leaks.

Do all that and bleed properly. If the clutch pedal is still halfway then it's some problem inside the transmission.
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Old 01-23-2009, 12:31 PM   #7
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ook how do i take it out the dampener ? and also wats a kink

it started as a leak under my dash so i drove it for a 3 days with refilling it and had no problem but i left my car in the garage for three days and the filler cap open for the clutch master and when i check it the pedal was all the way to the floor with out any pressure


so thats when i decided to rebuild it and from there it didnt work cause i couldnt bleed it took to long so i brought it to the shop and they said my cmc is out and i need a new one
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Old 01-23-2009, 01:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboto_boy View Post
how do i take it out the dampener ?
A "damper" is something that dampens, i.e. lessens. A "dampener" is something that makes damp, i.e. wet.

Don't complain to me. I didn't come up with this stuff.

Search for how to remove the clutch damper. This has been discussed at least monthly.

Quote:
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wats a kink
A kink in the line is blockage. Like if someone clamped a hose. This could be caused by accidents, motor swaps, someone being careless with a tool, etc.

The kink is a bottleneck where fluid pressure builds up around. The master cylinder is trying to push fluid around the kink, which it can't, and ends up blowing a seal.

It's like blocking most or all of the lanes on the freeway. Cars start backing up onto the surface street.

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they said my cmc is out and i need a new one
Without looking at the car, it could be anything.
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:59 PM   #9
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none is kink but i cant get the bolts off the damper dont want to strip them i sprayed wd40 and tried it slips i kinda strip them but not bad how can i take these out ?
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:52 PM   #10
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The same thing happened to me
I got some pliers that clamp and lock (don't know the name) and stripped those bolts to hell
I ended up cutting the hose on the dampener one of the ones that aren't needed and stickin it in some vice grips and got the nut off fairly easy after that
Idk if that helps, but think of something its not too difficult to do
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:53 PM   #11
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^^^"vice grips"
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:42 AM   #12
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Cut off the hardline and throw away. Get braided clutch line straight from the master to the slave.
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:44 PM   #13
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fairly new to this damper removal any pics how to do this like if the bolt strip what to cut and what not to cut ?
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:20 PM   #14
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if it wont come off dont remove it then.. all you need to do is bend the line and connect it to the rubberline..
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:31 PM   #15
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i got bored. so i did this in mspaint.

remove the blue line. bend pink line slowly up to the rubber line..

you dont technically have to "remove" the dampener. you can "bypass" and just leave it there if you cant get the bolts out.

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Old 01-27-2009, 12:57 PM   #16
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not the bolts that hold it the slave hard lines and what not wont come out
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Old 01-29-2009, 06:06 PM   #17
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HELP PLS !!!!!!!!!! I NEED MY CAR RUNIING ASAP !!!!!!!!!

and i cant take the fuckin hardline off the fuckin damper its super striped
tried open first striped it a lil than vice couldnt work so i tried again and now its a perfect circle


and i said fuck it ill just change my master cylinder did couldnt get the air out
have to pump the clutch peddle to go in gear PLSSSSSSSSSSSS I NEEEED SUM1 ADVICE !!!!!!
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Old 01-29-2009, 06:19 PM   #18
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read this thread over again, and youll have your advice.

remove the damper. bleed as usual. itll be fine.
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Old 01-29-2009, 06:20 PM   #19
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told u cant take out the dam damper !!!! the bolt to the main clutch line is striped !!
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Old 01-29-2009, 10:47 PM   #20
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First thing first. Buy a flare nut wrench so next time you remove a brake/clutch line you won't strip the fitting. Hit yourself in the face for not doing that before you tried to remove the line by using the wrong tool.

Now that you have stripped it, go online and find a pair of Irwin 7LW vice grip pliers. These are by far the best tool you can own for dealing with brake fittings. Clamp it to absolute hell and remove the fitting. Proceed as directed from there.
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:33 PM   #21
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none of them worked !!! so im just cutting and replacing
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