0-60 times

[Dream240]

Okay, I'm sure this is talked about everywhere, anyways:
Today I tested my 0-60 time and came up with 10.9 seconds. I did this in my car with my foot on the gas, one hand on the steering wheel and the other on a stopwatch. I know this is an inaccurate way to check times but I'm just curious, stock 96' 240s are 8.2 right? I've got Ingen CAI, Apex N1-dual, 18"rims, Hotshot header, Racing Pulley set, and high-flow CAT, and 133,000 miles on the odometer, oh and I just did an oil change last weekend. So someone tell me why even an inaccurate method results in such a horrible time!! Sh*t even stock Civics are faster than that! I haven't had the chance to Dyno my car since way back. I would have thought that I was somewhere around 7.0-7.3 in my time. My car is also overdue for a tune-up (new plugs and wires). Someone HELP!!

Also I'm in New Mexico, Altitude 4000+, could that be another reason? My car has felt weaker since I moved here a few months ago.

[Bbandit]

thats because of your altitude and your 18 inch rims

i did my 0-60 run a while ago..
10.5 sec with 4 people in it..
8.4 sec with only me in it..

[AKADriver]

One hand on the steering wheel + one hand on the stopwatch = you have an automatic = your car will be slower than the published figures, which are for manuals. Magazine times when the cars were new - mid 8s for the SOHC, 8 flat to mid 7s for the DOHC (including S14s).

The automatic's deeper gears - especially first and second - work against good 0-60 times. Your 18" wheels aren't helping either. That's a lot of inertia to overcome.

What was your launch technique?

[Dream240]

Well, I first tried 3000rpm start that resulted in a 11.59 time!! I think it's because my tranny is old a took too much time finding the gear. Then I tried a Drive gear start with switching my foot from brake to gas and just punching it. That got me two times, 10.92 and 10.90. I thought the altitude hurt me, also I know the rims are bad for achieving good times, but what can I do to reduce the effect of the rims? I'm planning on getting new forged pistons and rods with .20 oversize, and the tune up I mentioned, plus an MSD ignition system soon.
Is it just better to find a set of 16" rims that I can swap out when I want to race around? I love my 18" black beauties, get all kinds of compliments about em so it's hard to let them go. I've got pics just need to post them. Then you'll see why I want to keep them and just work around the inertia loss.
Thanks for the input.

[orion::S14]

With an N/A auto, don't ever expect the 0-60 to be faster than 9 seconds I'd guess...

Fastest 1/4 mile I ever ran with my auto was 16.6 at 84. Pitiful. And that's faster than 10 seconds 0-60...

My average 1/4 miles times were more like 17.0-17.2 at 83-84...

An S14 with heavy wheels and an auto transmission is just not a fast car in a straight line.

you can either: Boost it, run nitrous, or swap in a 5-speed.

...or have a pimp looking daily driver and not worry about it being fast.

Here's my page on the auto --> manual swap if you need it:

http://www.cautioncreativity.com/briand/trannyswap.htm

Later - Brian

[Keisuke]

i dunno. . i get 5.9

when you get bigger rims, your spedo is off 2, right?

[Red]

Only if you screw up your overall diamater....

What size tires do you have on your 18's? they arnt 18x7's are they?

ugg.

[240racer]

how much are you going to spend on the forged pistons and rods with the .020" overbore? I think you aren't doing the right things if you want to be faster. The parts themselves are like $1100 and the rebuild about $1000 or something, sounds like nitrous or a cute turbo kit would work better.

[twitchy]

i used a friends GTEC in my car the other weekend...it was pouring rain but just to try, I got a decent launch (brand new dunlop tireS) and according to the gtec I nailed 0-60 in 8.6 seconds and ran the quarter in 17.3 at 86 miles per hour. I dont know how accurate the gtec is but I cant wait to try it again on dry pavement

[Dream240]

Okay, in reply to my setup, I've got 18X7.5" with 225/40 tires. Black gloss on a black car, I don't know why it would be ugg. Anyways, I also noticed a big jump in pull power on the mid-high end when I removed my silencers. And I'm sure I can attain under 9.0 seconds in my auto with the mods I've got if I just launch good. I mean the gear ratios aren't THAT much off, are they? A whole 1.5 to 2 seconds slower in stock trim just because of the tranny?
Also, getting new pistons and rods WILL improve power gains on a worn engine. And the cost isn't 1100. I got prices for pistons for 300 and rods for 350. And I plan on doing the install on my own with some small help from a shop in the boring and cleaning of the block. Also I plan on turboing in the next couple years and the forged parts will definitely pay off in the long run. I'm gonna try my 0-60 time tomorrow without the silencers and then again when I get the tune up and see how much it improves. I'm pretty sure I can get it down to about 8.5 or so. (I hope)

[Yoshi]

Originally posted by Dream240
Well, I first tried 3000rpm start that resulted in a 11.59 time!!

okay... so with an auto tranny, does this mean you neutral dropped?! Poor tranny! no wonder it's having a hard time!

Is it just better to find a set of 16" rims that I can swap out when I want to race around? I love my 18" black beauties, get all kinds of compliments about em so it's hard to let them go. I've got pics just need to post them. Then you'll see why I want to keep them and just work around the inertia loss.
Thanks for the input.

17's wouldn't be so bad, but 18" is stepping away from performance and into "Bling-Bling" territory. It isn't so much the size of your rim that's the issue, it's the weight. You could get 16's that are every bit as heavy as the 18's and you'd be totally defeating the purpose of trying for a lighter rim.

[orion::S14]

Originally posted by Dream240
...And I'm sure I can attain under 9.0 seconds in my auto with the mods I've got if I just launch good. I mean the gear ratios aren't THAT much off, are they? A whole 1.5 to 2 seconds slower in stock trim just because of the tranny?

I'm pretty sure I can get it down to about 8.5 or so. (I hope)

Sadly, yes. Take for example a Mitsubishi Galant - Runs 16.5 @ 86...which is a little faster than my best with an auto trans in my S14 (I ran 16.6...with decent mods and a good run - Averaged about 17 n the 1/4) - It runs a 8.7 second 0-60 time. Or a Jetta GLX wagon with a VR6 - 16.5 @ 85 = 8.6 second 0-60. [All those times from R&T...]

So yeah, high 8's are doable...

[240racer]

If you get new pistons are they going to be different compression ratio. If you get lower compression ratio in anticipation of a turbo kit, then you will make less power, if you get higher compression ratio, then you will have issues when you go turbo. Also, you will not make any more power with different rods, real power, or fantasy power. Anyway, your pistons and rods are still $650 and that's more then a nice nitrous system. If your engine is tired after "only" 133k miles, that's because you treat it like crap, not because the engine itself "should" be worn out. Also, there is a theory that worn in engines make more power because the bearings are a little looser and don't have as much friction. BTW, 18" tires usually weigh at least as much as 16" tires, and there big steel bead is larger in diameter too, so that makes for more rotational inertia. I know you like the looks, and I'm sure they look fine, but it's a comprimise in forward acceleration you are going to have to accept. Also, just so you know I think 0-60 is one of the dumber car tests. It's a factor of tire technology, any respectable car can spin it's tires till like 30mph anyway, so it's all about the grip. If you really want to know how "fast" you car is, then go for 1/4mile trap speed. If you want to know how good of a driver you are, go for 1/4mile ET. Plus the measuring system is way more accurate and you can just concentrate on driving.

[duderiffic]

For reference (I dunno how accurate these things are) but my Stock 98 SE ran 7.8 on a G-Tech with 400 LBS of people in there. (me and a friend) Next time you buy a car shop for the manual instead of settling for the auto.

[Dream240]

Originally posted by Yoshi
okay... so with an auto tranny, does this mean you neutral dropped?! Poor tranny! no wonder it's having a hard time!

Yeah the tranny's a little worn. I actually never drive like that, I just did it the one time to see of it made a difference. I found that with the auto you launch better in drive 1 and shift up accordingly.

And for 240racer:

If you get new pistons are they going to be different compression ratio. If you get lower compression ratio in anticipation of a turbo kit, then you will make less power, if you get higher compression ratio, then you will have issues when you go turbo. Also, you will not make any more power with different rods, real power, or fantasy power. Anyway, your pistons and rods are still $650 and that's more then a nice nitrous system.[/B][/QUOTE]

I know this already, But to build a bullet proof engine you start with the basics on up, right? Nitrous can be risky if you don't take precautions, I hear about it all the time, guys blowing their engines cause they turned it up too high. Well my daily driver has to RUN for me regardless. That's the logic behind my rebuild idea.

[/B][/QUOTE]If your engine is tired after "only" 133k miles, that's because you treat it like crap, not because the engine itself "should" be worn out.[/B][/QUOTE]

Okay, obviously you like to just throw crap out of your mouth, you have no idea how I treat my engine. I bought it used, like most other guys, at 72,000 miles. So who knows what kind of damage was done before hand. I change my oil every 3,000 miles, using WIX filters and Lucas oil stabilizer, with weekly check ups on my fluids, air pressure, charging system, and so on. I also keep detailed records of every time it is on the racks.


[/B][/QUOTE]BTW, 18" tires usually weigh at least as much as 16" tires, and there big steel bead is larger in diameter too, so that makes for more rotational inertia. I know you like the looks, and I'm sure they look fine, but it's a comprimise in forward acceleration you are going to have to accept.[/B][/QUOTE]

If you read the last post you know that I already said I am fully aware of the rim=power loss, and I also have accepted the fact that they cause this. I was just stating that I want to find some other ways to raise a little more performance out of my existing set up, isn't that what most guys are doing?