Spark Plug Heat Level & Gaping

[lightsource]

This is my current setup:
SR20DET
T25 Turbo (10psi)
FMIC
Stock MAF
Stock Injectors
Stock ECU
Stock Intake
Stock Pulleys
Stock Cams
Greddy Profec-B
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump / 300ZX Fuel Filter
Megan Exhaust Manifold
Greddy Turbo Elbow
Megan Downpipe
3" Exhaust

This is my near future setup:
SR20DET
T25 Turbo (10psi)
FMIC
300ZX MAF
550CC Injectors
PowerFC L-Detro
Apex'i Power Intake
Megan Pulleys
Tomei Poncam Stage 1 (256/256) & Rocker Arm Stoppers
Greddy Profec-B
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump / 300ZX Fuel Filter
Megan Exhaust Manifold
Greddy Turbo Elbow
Megan Downpipe
3" Exhaust

Which heat Heat Levels and Gapping should I be using for each setup?

Thanks

[Sileighty_85]

Stock Plugs Heat Range 7 gaped at .28

why upgrade everything else and keep the T25 at least get a T28

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

Stock Plugs Heat Range 7 gaped at .28

why upgrade everything else and keep the T25 at least get a T28

If you're going to upgrade everything else, go with the T28 turbo. They can be had relatively cheap and FRsport.com sells install kits with everything needed to install it on your S13.

[lightsource]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

If you're going to upgrade everything else, go with the T28 turbo. They can be had relatively cheap and FRsport.com sells install kits with everything needed to install it on your S13.

Yeah I know, it's funny how everything worked out w. me buying parts, but I saved a shitload of money. Either way, I've got everything else, now all i have to do is upgrade the turbo & manifold. Which I'm doing all at once and which will cost me somewhere around $1700-$2000 for everything.

Any heat specification for higher modified engines?

EDIT: I forgot to mention that my 'near future setup' is all parts I have already.

[Sileighty_85]

NGK Iridium Race Spark Plugs : Heat 7, 8, 9

[jspaeth]

it's GAPPING, not gaping.

Spark plug = GAP

Butt plug = GAPE

[lightsource]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

it's GAPPING, not gaping.

Spark plug = GAP

Butt plug = GAPE

I'm quite aware of the difference between gaping assholes and gapping spark plugs.

Sorry G.N

[omgRWDgoodness!]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

it's GAPPING, not gaping.

Spark plug = GAP

Butt plug = GAPE

Glad I wasn't the only one who thought this...

[BoostSlideWayz]

i actually had a question about this... i heard some one tell me for boosting you car its best to use colder plugs ... is this true ?? im new to boost so im kind of in the dark with getting my set up done right. not to impose on this thread.. just a quick question

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by lightsource

Yeah I know, it's funny how everything worked out w. me buying parts, but I saved a shitload of money. Either way, I've got everything else, now all i have to do is upgrade the turbo & manifold. Which I'm doing all at once and which will cost me somewhere around $1700-$2000 for everything.

Any heat specification for higher modified engines?

EDIT: I forgot to mention that my 'near future setup' is all parts I have already.

To be honest, I wouldn't even upgrade the factory manifold. It is a great flowing manifold and the design is perfect for the T28. If you want a great manifold that retains the factory design, the Tomei is awesome, but pricey.

Heat range 7 at .028 gap is where you should be and you won't need anything colder until you're well into the 400hp realm.

Originally Posted by BoostSlideWayz

i actually had a question about this... i heard some one tell me for boosting you car its best to use colder plugs ... is this true ?? im new to boost so im kind of in the dark with getting my set up done right. not to impose on this thread.. just a quick question

This all depends on the amount of power you're making, but yes, usually boosted motors run colder plugs than the NA counter part. 200-400hp you really don't need anything colder than a 7, as stated by my tuner. Once you're into the 400's or higher, 8's then 9's as needed. It also depends on the type of use your motor see's. The more boost, the tighter the gap.

I run 7's and dyno'd 360rwhp at 13psi to give you an example.

[lightsource]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

To be honest, I wouldn't even upgrade the factory manifold. It is a great flowing manifold and the design is perfect for the T28. If you want a great manifold that retains the factory design, the Tomei is awesome, but pricey.

Heat range 7 at .028 gap is where you should be and you won't need anything colder until you're well into the 400hp realm.

Yeah, I actually told myself that if I was going to get a T28 that I would upgrade the manifold from this crappy megan one. I've worked on a car w. the tomei manifold, and it's a beautifully crafted manifold, so much better in every way and easier to install. Which is why it would cost me $2000, just for the price of the turbo and lines and accessories ($1400) and the manifold ($600)

7 @ .028 it is, thanks!

[huffandpuff00]

Dont waist your money on Iridium plugs. The shop I have my car tuned at runs NGK copper plugs on their 1000hp supras just fine. I think they are 4464(bkr7), like a dollar and some change and gap .28

[GroundPerformance]

Originally Posted by huffandpuff00

Dont waist your money on Iridium plugs. The shop I have my car tuned at runs NGK copper plugs on their 1000hp supras just fine. I think they are 4464(bkr7), like a dollar and some change and gap .28

Depends how you view it. Copper tends foul much early than Iridium IMO. Iridium will be best if you want to just put the set and not worry about it for awhile. High HP cars you kinda need to check and replace those things more often so cheaper plugs wil be better. Daily setup go with Iridium last longer and not risk stripping thread on the head.