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Old 11-26-2010, 11:31 AM   #1
drift240_2009
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battery relocation help

Ok i bought a kit, but having trouble figuring out the best way to feed the wires to the trunk.I dont think having them in the fender will be good incase i slam the car later on. I have never done this and want try to succeed in doing this for the first time. Do i need to cut any wires like the original positive and negative cables and solder them to the new cables to locate in the back?If someones local to suwanee who knows how to do it this would be great and i can pay them for their help. Even though ill regret it later on that i couldnt do myself, but electrical stuff isnt really my thing and i just want to get this done so i can manage the other projects better.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:15 PM   #2
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=S14+240sx+battery+relocation
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:08 PM   #3
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I just relocated my battery, if you want to come to Atlanta I could give you a little help. Otherwise here is a good link:

Low-Budget Battery Relocation – NICO Club

If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:08 PM   #4
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^
hey how do u do that?
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:11 PM   #5
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..........
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:19 PM   #6
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^
hey how do u do that?
Let me google that for you
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:43 PM   #7
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ive been looking at those 2 links for awhile, cardoza, ill be in atl wednesday afternoon, but the car will be up at a marta station. I dont have the box no more since i just got a battery holder. Cardoza, if you can manage to help me with this, that would be awesome. Like i said i suck at electrical and it helps alot when someone else is helping.
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:14 AM   #8
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I ran mine along with all the hard lines that go to the gas tank. Then drilled a hole in trunk to get the power wire to the battery.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:18 AM   #9
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Thats the thing, i dont have a drill and all that. I got tools but not anything fancy
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:41 AM   #10
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If you have nough wire to reach the rubber gromets in the trunk then you can just go threw there.
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:32 PM   #11
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Yea but the only thing i dont understand is why cant you just cut the positive and negative cables and attach the new cables to them and just feed those wires to the new battery location? I dont see how that cannot work. And whats with this amp fuse you have to use for this kit?
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:45 PM   #12
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Why not drill a whole in the pass. side firewall, put in a grommet, run the wire under the carpet/ metal tunnel like things. Run it under the back seats to the battery in the trunk. I ran the power wire to the engine bay where i have a distro block.



You can see the battery in the trunk. No wires exposed.
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I ran mine along with all the hard lines that go to the gas tank. Then drilled a hole in trunk to get the power wire to the battery.
Just me. I'd be wary of running electrical components along gas lines/tank. Just because of the slight chance of the wire casing rubbing through and eventually causing a spark near gas tank. Highly unlikely, but i'm not taking the chance.

Last edited by waxball88; 11-27-2010 at 01:36 PM..
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:57 PM   #13
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Yea but the only thing i dont understand is why cant you just cut the positive and negative cables and attach the new cables to them and just feed those wires to the new battery location? I dont see how that cannot work. And whats with this amp fuse you have to use for this kit?
You can I did it....

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Old 11-27-2010, 09:28 PM   #14
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What is that, i dont understand what that is? I have never seen that before? I was more considering cutting the positive and negative and electrical taping them to the new wires and feeding them through the trunk. But i mean, how is it gunna work if its like that? I mean yea the wires are touching each other but how can it still work at a bend like that? You need to show me the engine bay so i know what it looks like.
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:38 PM   #15
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Its a Distro block. Changes cleanly allows the attachment of more wires to one wire
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:45 PM   #16
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simply drilling a hole is the best way even if you have to borrow a drill from a friend or a neighbor thats how i did mine and its been great for 2 yrs so far.
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:51 AM   #17
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Best I could do.

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Old 11-28-2010, 07:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
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You may have to show them how to get to open the browser and get to google as well.
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:50 AM   #19
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Here's a question- I currently have my battery up front, with a 0 gauge wire run to the trunk for the amps. When I relocate the battery, can I use the existing wire w/ fuse to go from the battery to the engine bay? And is a fully enclosed box recommended for an optima yellowtop?
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:16 AM   #20
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That wire would be perfectly fine, and if it is not a dry cell battery then yes closed box vented to the outside of the car is recomended due to fumes.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:53 AM   #21
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stop saying google.How is that going to help for someone whos electrically declined like me who doesnt know much about electrical. Thats how you make pple not want to come back, fyi. If the person doesnt understand anything from google stop sending them back, it gets annoying. Zach explains it like how forums are suppose to help, Zach you have my respect on here.

Zach btw, on the drawing you made where you pointed to the splitter. What do you mean by the splitter?I dont see that on the car except where the negative and positive cables become one and theres these plugs ontop of this block thing. Is that what you are refering to? Wait....wait wait. I think i just understood everything zach just said just now
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:56 AM   #22
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I think what Zachs terminology meant by is that when your going to relocate the battery you just cut the cable before the splitter that has the 2 wires that go to negative and positive side of the battery. Also cut the starter cable and attach it to the power wire thats going to be going directly to the trunk. Then attach that to positive i think and the negative will be grounded to some place thats exposing bare metal. Is that what youve been trying to explain to me this whole time?
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:34 AM   #23
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Yes. the two wires that are coming out of the gold block are the ones that would usually attatch to the battery post.

This is how i did the starter wire.

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Old 11-28-2010, 12:42 PM   #24
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So at these 3 points i need to cut and merge into one right? Autozone thinks that inst right.Cant i just attach the new cable to it and just feed it to the back and leave all three points attached?

http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/3...5160344rz0.jpg
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:51 PM   #25
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Yes you can, BUT with wiring quality is key. When I do wiring i like to make things as good if not better than OEM. Electrical taping over everything and leaving it will almost definitely result in problems down the road. It will function though. And I have been mis-lead by people in autoparts stors so many times its not even funny. I have this setup in my car at the moment and works great. If you want one of these blocks I have one chilling in the shop and will sell it oober cheap.
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:21 PM   #26
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drift240...i really think you are over thinking this. Your concept is correct. I know you don't have much at your disposal, but in order to do this correctly and safely. You are going to need to get a few things.

I don't want to go into detail, if I don't have to, but there is really no need for cutting original positive/negative wires. Go to Pepboys/Kragen/AutoZone, and buy a battery post. Its the little nob on the battery, that the positive/negative cable clamps on to. Now you can clamp the original postive/negative cables to the new battery post.

This way you are not messing/cutting up the original positive/negative cables, just in case you decide to put the battery back.

If you need more info, just ask or pm. But I would HIGHLY advise using an inline fuse on that positive cable you are running to the back/trunk.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:33 PM   #27
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maiku, wtf happened to the battery? How is everything gunna get charged and run if theres no batttery to charge it? Plus maiku, I got enough slack since its a fairly small battery like the jetski battery, I can take off the cable connectors that look like this and electrical take them to the new cables to the battery. That basically was my plan. Im going to try that tuesday and wednesday. This way, if it doesnt get power to anything and dies, i can always reattach the original ones back to their spot on the battery.
http://metalshopborealis.ca/pics2/lrbatt.jpg
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:25 AM   #28
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drift240...i only got to helping you do this so that you don't cut up the original positive/negative cables that are in the engine compartment. The original negative cable in the engine compartment is just grounded to the chasis using the new battery post.

You then run the positive cable to the back/trunk or where ever you putting the battery.

I don't understand what you mean by "cable connector"? Is that the picture you are refering too..?
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:35 AM   #29
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Yea the connectors connecting to the battery to get the power. The only thing i dont to do is get rid of the connector and the alternator wire on the power wire. I want to keep all that and be able to just use the one cable i got to locate it into the back. I hate the box guys since i got ripped off.It never came with straps to hold it down or anything, im goin getto and doing it with a battery tie down. Ill do something later, maybe get summit racings box i dont know.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:44 AM   #30
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I bought the summit racing battery relocator and the box is a cheap plastic. I ended up buying a sears battery box, which is a thicker plastic.

As for how to connect the NEW cable to run into the back, it would be easier if I just post a pix of my set-up. Hopefully I'll be able to do that tonight.
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