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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Got ticking sounds? (KA24DE)
I was having a really nasty ticking sound coming from the valvetrain of my car recently. It turns out the solution is really really simple.
There is a tensioner between the two cam sprockets. It is a simple L shaped piece of metal that rests on top of the timing chain. Over time the metal cracks and generally the bracket breaks loose and sits there on top of the timing chain occasionally banging against the valve cover. You have 2 options if yours is bent, broken, or something in between: 1) Remove it, reassmble your car, have a beer. (dealer approved) My car is like this at the mooment. 2) Replace it, reassemble the car, also have a beer. (Also dealer approved) In short, the upper timing chain tensioner is a piece of garbage, it was poorly made from sintered metal and has a low fatigue life. As I said, I don't have one on my car and it runs fine. However, just for peace of mind I will probably buy an new one (if they aren't expensive) and see if I notice any difference in the engine noise or the way it drives. If nothing else, removing the upper tensioner will keep the noise down. ![]() -Texsilvia |
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#2 |
Short follow up,
If you remove the tensioner, make sure to remove the ENTIRE tensioner, not just the broken piece. Remove (and keep) the two bolts that hold it on, along with any pieces of the tensioner you find in the area. -Texsilvia |
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#3 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Well I'm very happy that you were able to solve you problem, but just so you know this has been covered many times, and there is a VERY well written how to in the FAQ. You may also want to remove the lower timing chain guide on the upper timing chain. It is reccomended that both be removed and tossed into the fiery pits of hell.
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#4 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: May 2002
Location: Charleston, SC
Age: 40
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yeah, lotta info on this, but so that people dont get confused because u are using the wrong terms.
The piece is not a tensioner, it is a guide, the 2 guides on the upper chain can be removed, not the tensioner.
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1990 240sx 5spd fastback |
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#7 |
anyone wanna direct me to that FAQ section??
I have a car that is making that same noise but the top plate was removed and I still have the same problem. Now, I looking down at the lower/drivers side that plate is not moving at all( i poked at it with a screw driver) Does it still need to be removed? I hear there is another lower one for the lower chain. is that right?? I appricate any help guys !
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henry-- |
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#8 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Frederick, MD
Age: 41
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I had the same problem, i removed the upper chain guide and still had that noise. So i removed the lower one. But there is a little more work involved to getting that one besides taking the valve cover off.
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'93 240sx Coupe SR20DET Blacktop ![]() |
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#9 |
Under the heading of Specific Topics, Archives and FAQ's.
The title of the post is something like: "Quest for rattling: Completed!" or something like that. The writeup is very clear and specific about which pieces to remove and which to test, but leave on the car. One bit of advice tho, if your car is like mine, the distributor is more or less stuck in place, able to turn back and forth but unable to be pulled out. This makes getting some bolts difficult so try to get a 1/4" drive swivel socket and an extension for the bolt behind the distributor. If you leave the distributor is, as I did, NOTE THE POSITION OF THE ROTOR, mark this...and when you resintall it, turn the rotor counterclockwise by about 30-45 degrees as you resintall the cover. That way, as the cover is pushed in to positions and the distributor drive gears fully mesh, the rotor will be back where you marked it. If you can take it out, it's that much easier. -Texsilvia |
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#10 |
I took out both top and top/side guides and replaced the top/side hydrolic tensioner. Makes more noise now???? I was looking at the lower tension-er and lower guide. The lower tension-er seem to be able to slide back and forth...?? Also the oil pressure light stays on all the time now! Any help guys!!??
thanks!!
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henry-- |
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#11 |
![]() I'm having the same problem!!!
I was able to drive the car w/o both guides for about 2 or 3 hours, then very suddenly I lost oil pressure and have yet to find the cause. I called the dealer looking for replacement guides hoping that they would be related to my lack of oil pressure but they have been discontinued. The dealer holds to the recommendation that both the upper and top-left guides should be removed. I can't see the oil pressure and guides being related and it's suprising that someone is having the same problem as I am. If anyone can think of a reason that this is happening please reply. The rattling you hear if the oil pressure light is on comes from the hydraulic lifters failing to pump up. I think my car has a clogged oil screen. So to clear it I created a device to force a solvent from the oil filter to the oil pump and into the oil pan. If there is a physical clog, this should remove it. If it works and anyone wants to know how to make one, I'll post it. It cost me less than $10 to make from an old oil filter, a few fittings, some cork, polyethylene tubing, and a 16oz plastic bottle. This may or may not be the case on your car. I'm beginning to suspect a case of severe weirdness on the part of Nissan when they created the KA24's. Is your car a 1996? -Texsilvia |
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#12 |
The car is a 1991. Black top ka24de. I heard if the oil light goes on then the oil pressure is too low. Where is the oil pump in that thing? Now, the oil pump feeds the lower hydrolic tension-er right?? If it doesn't get enough pressure or is leaking past it.. The chain slaps around??
"The rattling you hear if the oil pressure light is on comes from the hydraulic lifters failing to pump up" Your not talking about the lifters under the cams are you??? Thats really not good if they are not getting pressure... uh oh. I need to fix this soon! hahah The car is not being driven right now. I went to the dealer and they also said remove the upper guides and replace the uppder hydrolic tension-er. Whats weird is after I replace/take off all of that stuff.. the car got worst. Before it would only make the sound at idle. ONce you rev' the engine its fine. But now its all the time!! idle or free rev.. and the oil light is on 24/7. any help people!!??
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henry-- |
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