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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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S14 KA acting wierd (video of whats going on)
I uploaded a video of how its acting. I disconnected the fuel line and its getting fuel. She starts up sometimes after giving her a little gas. All fuses and relays are good to go. I dont see any shorts or anything. Any ideas?
Last thing I did to the car was put the LED lights in the dash. I dont know if that might have anything to do with it. http://youtu.be/t89IFQud0Cs
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#5 |
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The only codes on the car are from having an AT ECU.
Ill change the plugs and cables and see what happens, because its been a while. Would that still make every relay click?
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#8 |
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i had the same issue when my alternator got over worked by my braille battery. both died on me and i had the same symptoms before it completely shut off on me.
i would start with the battery and alternator. i bet you have a small battery or a cheap one from autoparts store. those cheap full sizes are crap too.
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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i would check ignition, distributor and back, important grounds, such as ecu ground, anything really obvious, if fuel and spark and air/compression are in spec check sensors and anything else related to efi.
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#11 |
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Thought it was the dizzy, changed and still nothing. Weird now there is no fuel coming out from the fuel filter and ALL of my dash warning lights dont turn on. The air bag and CEL were always on. Thing just cranks now...
Any ideas?
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#13 |
Leaky Injector
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The CEL is powered by the ECU. When it flickers, the ecu is actually dying and coming back to life, that's why your engine is cutting out.
I'm not sure what it has to do with over 3k rpm's, though. You need to check your main ignition power wire. Underneath your steering column there is a plug coming from your ignition switch. The white wire will have 12v with key off, engine off. Switched 12v there is going to be a black wire with a red stripe. The reason your dummy lights don't come on is because this wire is the same wire that connects to something called your bulb check relay so you can see that all your lights work when you turn your key to the ON position without starting your car. It's the same reason you're not getting fuel. S chassis computers supply a switch for the grounding of the fuel pump. If your ECU cannot power on, it doesn't flip the switch. What I would do if I were you was check my ignition wires. Take off your surround for the steering wheel so you can see the ignition and harnesses. Also take out your cluster, make sure everything is tight. If your cluster is grounding out then it is taking all the juice from your 12v wire, leaving your ecu high and dry for voltage. Maybe around 3k RPM you get a vibration that moves some wires towards a short. An easy way to check this theory is to unplug your cluster and try starting your car. You may have to check your engine control fuses in your engine bay now that you are getting no power whatsoever. Let me know what you find. |
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#16 |
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The wiring behind the cluster looks good. Nothing is grounding out or binding. Im gonna try and replace the ECU and see. The harness to the ECU is getting power, checked it with a volt meter.
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#20 |
Leaky Injector
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No, red SHOULD have constant 12v, that's a different circuit. Thats not your problem. You need to check the black/red wire for voltage. That's black with red stripe. Its 12gauge. It is connected to one of your relays behind your ecu (iirc, don't have an s14). When you turn your ignition to 'on', this wire goes hot. Check that for voltage with the key ON.
If you dont, carry on. Make sure you checked your fuses BTW or this will be a waste of time. Next, look under your steering column for that ignition switch plug. There will be a thick white wire, that should have constant 12v. Your ignition takes the power from that wire and distributes it via your ignition switch. If you have constant 12v on the white wire, keep going. Plug your ignition switch back in and turn the key to ON. Stab through the plastic sheathing on the black/red wire with your multi meter. Do it after the ignition switch plug, so like, the body harness side of the plug. Make sense? Tell me if it has 12v. Just do these tests real quick, I dont think its your ECU. It may be your ignition switch. Or a number of other things... |
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#21 |
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Ignition or fuel issue. Kinda hard to pinpoint, but you changed plugs and wires, so that is a start. Next would try swapping fuel pump just to see if it makes any difference.
Also, put a wrench up to your ear, and listen to each cylinder when it does this, maybe you can pinpoint where its coming from.
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#22 |
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Swapped the ECU today and the warning lights came on for a couple cranks and then they totally disappeared. Im going to check the black/red wire tomorrow. Ill let you know what I find.
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