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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#3 |
Zilvia Addict
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It's a knock sensor, so you get crappy idle and crappy gas mileage. It's still a sensor, something I'd still refer getting oem. If you want to save $40, then just get the Boshe one.
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#4 |
Bandwagon.
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i bought an oem one for 30 bucks. It was supposed to be aftermarket too lol
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#9 |
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Dont waste the $40. It will not solve it..
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#14 |
Zilvia Junkie
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check the harness to knock sensor..it can get twisted up over time and start to mess
up....and DAMN near all nissans frm 90-99 use the same knock sensor... jyard one is good as long as its not dry rotted or cracked
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#15 |
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i got a new sensor today.installed it reset ecu and code 34 came up.
i'll be checking out the harness to see if there is anything wrong with it. it looked ok when i had it out. btw,no other codes,mpg from 22-29. idle at650.no bogging. Last edited by soryu; 07-10-2012 at 11:21 PM.. Reason: info |
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#16 |
Nissanaholic!
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These knock sensors are useless when the engine is not bone stock, just remove them and place resistors to simulate a "all is good" situation . I think that was a 500 ohm resistor on each ECU wire going to the sensor.
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#17 |
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so i got another new sensor dropped it in code still showing.
i went thru the steps in the fsm. check subharness for continuance, there is. check harness for continuance, there is. i dropped in a resistor 1/2 watt 1mega OHM. code still there. how is the resistor supposed to be set up? i have it each end in the wire like a staple. or should it just touch one side? |
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#23 |
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560k ohm its roughly half a mega ohm. The resistors plug in in series on the harness. 560k is what worked for me. I used multiple resistors to dissapate heat better than one.
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#24 |
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I've seen a lot of bad knock sensors lately. Here you go. Not my fault if you blow your engine
I just tested my knock sensor today and found it to br dead. No resistance at all. I pulled a code for a bad knock sensor. My car wasn't pulling hard before 5K rpm. The new one is $200 and a pain in the ass to change, so i decided to bypass it. The ECU sends the sensor 5VDC and returnes 2.5VDC. So you need about .56M ohm or 560k ohm. I went to radioshack and bought a pack of 100k and a pack of 47 k resistors. i wired 5x100k and 1x47k in series and 2x47k in parellel and that gave me exactly 560k ohm. I then disconnected the harness and plugged the resistor pack into the ecu side harness. I reset the ecu and went for a drive. With a 3degree timing bump and this delete, my car pulls hard and smooth. I only run premium gas so I don't think detonation will be an issue. ![]() Ka24,ka24de,ka24de knock sensor delete, ka knock sensor delete,
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#28 |
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so i checked my harness again for continuity.
there's no continuity. i was checking the wrong pin in the harness ![]() i checked the ground cable and got continuity. how do i go about fixing this? i tried adding the resistor by cutting the red and green wires and adding the resistor between them but still got the code. i'm thinking i can snip the connector that connects to the subharness. wire two new wires to the connector run one to the ecu and the other ground it somewhere near the engine. ![]() Last edited by soryu; 07-27-2012 at 01:34 AM.. |
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#30 |
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you were supposed to unplug the sensor near the front of the head, put th resistor in its place. Not start hacking up your harness with a box cutter. also never apply votage to the ecu with a meter.
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