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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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![]() my redtop ran on a single mishimotor 14, or 16" fan. never had cooling problems, switched to a gt2871r, 740cc injectors, tune, tomei expreme manifold, etc and now i was overheating after i drove my car like 12 miles. with that fan however at night when its 75 and below i didn't have a problem, i thought id fix it with Isis dual 12 inch fans and metal shroud, apparently that made it worse..... i overheat now after 7 miles, and at night its not really any better......., I just put in a nismo thermostat and I've always been running a mishimoto radiator. some people say i have blown head gasket but theres no smoke out the exhaust, or "milky" oil. so my last resort is I'm waiting for my clutch fan and shroud to come in the mail and hopefully that helps. i also use stock hood with no hood scoops or anything, and my exhaust manifold has no heat wrap. my fans are also working by fan controller that i set as low as possible turning on at 140 degrees.
Last edited by 2stepGoesPowPow; 08-07-2012 at 10:29 PM.. |
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#4 | |
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Lots of diff things you can try .
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#5 |
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As long as there is no air in the cooling system, and the water pump and radiator are clean flowing free, the clutch fan and shroud should do the trick.
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#6 |
Leaky Injector
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Do you know if you got a new water pump when you put the SR in? They do go out occasionally you may have dying water pump which would explain the problem slowly getting worse.
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#7 |
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I just rememberd, i had to replace the coolant line for the turbo and when i took the old one out i drained coolant from the block and out of the turbo till it stopped then replaced the line and put the drained coolant back in the radiator, when i replaced that hose i did the new fan set up rite after also....
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#8 |
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you're last post, means little. What temperature are you saying is overheating? just so you know140°f is cold as hell. 60°c. If you are driving normally for the 12miles there should be enough flow through the radiator to keep you cool, even with 100°f outside temps.
I know you have all the proper components, but something is probably setup wrong, or broken. The water pump, Its very rare to break the shaft, and that's the only way our pumps would be completely disabled. Weep hole leaks are not total pump failures. FAILED fan installation, pushers installed as pullers and vice versa. S13 thermal resistor on S14. Clog, thermostat upside down. Air, etc. Sent from my Highly Tuned Vibrant!!
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#9 |
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keeping steady 60 mph on highway it slowly rises higher and higher it goes over 220 degrees if i let it. and maybe since i just drained some coolant and put it back in i just need to bleed the system? and im pretty positive i installed the fans rite
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#10 |
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water pump is not new, got the car with it, and im using a flex a lite fan controller, im gunna try n bleed it today hopefully its just air because i replaced the hose when the car was cold so maybe thats it.
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#14 |
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its not the thermostat i already checked & my heater doesnt work because i changed the climate control and never put the thermostat wire thing back, also my car doesnt over heat of its just idling and i see no leaks
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#15 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Put the wheels in the air. Open the radiator. Electrical tape a funnel to it. Fill the funnel with coolant, and start the engine. Let it idle with the heat on full blast. Watch as mad bubbles come to the surface. When the bubbles stop, put the cap back on and drive it.
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#16 |
Leaky Injector
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I have pretty much the same setup as you have not but i have a koyo rad and fual flex-a-lite fans hard wired to run all the time. never over heats and its 115 here today
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#18 | |
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#19 |
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didn't really get how to put the climate control cable back on so i couldn't turn the heat on but i raised the car and got a bunch of bubbles out... still gets hot though after a drive. -_-, i hope my clutch fan comes tomorrow... this shit is so annoying -_____________________-
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#20 |
Zilvia Junkie
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You need to be able to turn the heat on so that coolant is run through the heater core. Otherwise your heater core will just keep adding air to the system. If you bled it and bubbles came out, id bet money thats your problem. But until you get ALL of the air out, youre gonna have the same issues. All the cooling mods in the world wont help if theres still air in the system.
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#21 |
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Gotcha, i remember when i took the climate cable off the old climate control unit there was an e clip holding the cable but i dont remember how to exactly position the cable back.....
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#22 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Pretty sure the cable just determines which vents the air goes to. If you plugged in the electrical plugs and left the cable dangling, it should still turn the climate control on.
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#24 |
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Dissect the heater core lines rite behind the intake manifold and run them in a loop. See if that helps.
Here is thread that was just up this will help http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/465835...dont-loop.html
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“About the time we think we can make ends meet, somebody moves the ends.” ―Herbert Hoover The build http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...u-city-az.html Owner of NVS Fabrications |
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#25 |
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clutch fan didnt come, i need to drive 20 miles for my alignment... im gunna loop it in an hour and take my hood off and then begin my journey, hopefully itll be alright lol
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#26 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Quote:
You said you got a swirl pot? If you have a swirl pot, one of the nipple is connected to the bleeder cap on the upper radiator neck right? If this is the case, keep massaging the upper radiator line with the radiator cap off. Once it starts getting hot and you stopped seeing bubbles come out, put the cap unpressurized cap on the radiator. Fill the swirl pot and keep it topped off, keep massaging the upper radiator line. Just to make sure there is absolutely no more bubble in the lines and engine, then close off the swirl pot. |
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#27 |
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Bled some more, didnt loop hoses, took hood off, car was able to maintain 50mph without overheating, im pretty sure the isis fans are garbage and the shroud is just blocking off air corculation...
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