conversion tips/observations (S13 to Z32 5 lug/brake, VLSD, exhaust, etc)

[mbmbmb23]

Ok this weekend I finally got the second part of my project completed. Last week I did the front 5 lug swap (w/Z32 wheels and brakes) + suspension.... and this weekend I did the rear Z brakes + hub, N1 dual + cat, J30 VLSD, Z MC, rear suspension, swap.

Let me just go over a few points that may help someone else in the future with this. I'm sure most of what I'm including has been mentioned before...but I'm sharing this because someone will undoubtedly search this and hopefully this will answer many questions at once.

The J30 VLSD WILL fit the S13 (specifically the 1995 with 3 star flanges). It fit my car and I dont have ABS. It's a snug fit, but it works. The carrier bolts are too short, however if you hacksaw off the washer(s) that are pressed onto the bolts, you can get them to work (temporarily until the correct bolts are ordered) if you jack up the front of the diff and screw them in. They get 3-4 threads worth of tightening. (edit: ok now my rear end clunks.....I need the J30 carrier bolts and diff bushing insulators....very temporary solution for what I listed above)

The rear hubs, if rusty on the inside, will be IMPOSSIBLE to accept the axle splines. Take PB blaster and basically scrape out the spline grooved with a screwdriver and a wire brush.

Cutting out the fittings inside the S13 MC to use with the Z32 MC isn't as easy as it looks. Best thing to do is to cut as deep under the fitting as possible and then use a flat punch (or small hex screwdriver) to punch the fitting out from the back. When doing this in a bench vice, be sure to put a shop rag under the peice so the fitting doesnt get launched out and becomes lost in the garage

The N1 dual hangs low....especially with a lowered car. Buyer be warned. (but it sounds hot tho).

SS brake lines (Taka w/ AN fittings). Be sure to pre tighten the AN fittings to the lines before you install them. It makes it alot easier than trying to use 2 wrenches on the caliper and get the 90 degree elbow to line up just right so its not putting stress on the line.

Getting stubborn bolts loose. If the bolt tightens vertically (your wrench is going up when you turn it), you may be able to use a floor jack to help break the bolt loose. I did this a number of times and it works great. Basically you get the wrench on there, then jack up the end of the handle on the wrench until it breaks loose.

Finding a 36mm axle lug socket in the stores. The rear axles are held on by this huge socket which isn't always kept in the regular socket section at your auto parts store (Parts America, Pep Boys, etc). Ask the cashier where they are kept, I find mine near the RV merchandise.

Removing the exhaust (when you only have 2 jack stands). I used the stands on the left front and left rear of my car.....and it worked perfectly.



Thats all I can think of now......I'll edit more onto this thread as it comes to me.



-m