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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Blacktop SR20det help needed
Hey guys. I have been having some issues with my SR lately. I will try to describe everything as clear as possible so I can maybe get a little insight that I'm overlooking at the moment. I have pics and video and you can see kinda what im talking about..and also hear the misfire…
I have a 95 S14 with a S13 blacktop E5 ecu I will list all mods below then go into the issues I'm dealing with as well as everything I have done, tested and tried. Mods: S13 blacktop garrett gt2871r turbo fmic wiring specialties pro harness RS enthalpy tuned ECU Flex a lite fans for s14 (on all the time) alternator rebuilt new battery optima fuel pump is rewired with a relay and getting 14volts walbro 255 battery in the rear denso 550cc injectors aeremotive FPR z32 fuel filter NO BOV isr intake manifold new ngk bkr7e .032..used to be at .028 same thing Ok so issues when I first start the car it idles up normal for about 10 seconds then rpms drop and sometimes will die and sometimes stumbles bad for a few than can pick up normal then die ... when i start it again its all good no problem.. suspect IACV but cleaned it all out and set idle with TPS unplugged .. It will also almost die when I come to a stop the rpm dip low sometimes bounce around up and down and evens out randomly will die (No bov) when warm idling the car will sometimes idle lean according to my afr gauge AEM and the sensor is good and tested... you can hear a slight misfire at idle and the gauge is lean showing 17s to --- also at times at idle the afr will go to 10.0 and stay there for a few min then something changes and shoots back to lean..you hear the motor miss a beat (misfire i guess) go lean and dies.. if its idling at 10 and i turn ac on it goes lean...turn ac off and it goes rich...also sometimes when ac turns on the rpm don't rise and the car dies... also at idle...if i turn wiper on the volts drop in the car when the wiper moves and almost kills the car and lets say I hold the rpms around 3k and the wipers move the rpms drop....checked this will a multi meter not sure if this is normal even just at idle sometimes the car will be steady and randomly the volts drop and car will either die or stumble... driving...10lbs car will be lean in boost around 13s sometimes high 12s cruising I'm at 14.5 to 15.1 so normal my eyes also burn at times when driving…not sure if its just my contacts or what but they do bother me when im driving my car What I have done/checked: MAF - 1.05volts at idle. cleaned and tried another no change..its grounded to chase as well Coils - ohm checked all good, grounded to VC bolt ignitor - checked and passed injectors - ohm tested fuel pump new and rewired with relay ECU check by martin at enthalpy and all good engine compression good no boost leaks no vac leak (smoke tested) TPS checked.. .44V and smooth up to 4.7v timing is correct even tho it does bounce around when checking with a timing light but it was set right in the pics you can see my grounds i have...i have one off the head to chassis, one off the intake to chassis, one off the alt to chassis, the oem one on the back of head to the bracket, and a ground from tranny to chassis firewall Last edited by bmar19; 01-28-2017 at 12:22 AM.. |
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#3 |
Nissanaholic!
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eyes burning could be exhaust leak, I adjusted my iacv to help with the dying...the afrs could be tune if pump, fpr and injectors are good, oh and also if fuel filter is good still too
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#4 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
yeah i did find exhaust leak so i will be fixing that with a new mani to turbo gasket... we checked the tune and it was good fuel pump and filter are new i also use the poem sock not the little one that comes with walbro... not sure if you saw the video but its a definite misfire with the rpm up around 3k and also they drop when i turn the wipers on even if I'm holding the pedal down..i was thinking a ground issue but idk all my grounds seem good |
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#5 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
Age: 42
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for starters, disconnect any O2 sensor narrowband you have. Then see how the wideband responds.
Second. I dont see anything about cams. Stock cam? If so go to third third, the wideband reading at first, looks bad/wrong. like you have an exhaust leak somewhere nearby. If not, then I would suspect a boost leak. You should have pressure tested the system with 15~psi first. If you did this, go to fourth fourth, O2 narrowband still disconnected, no exhaust leaks, pressure test done, I suspect either bad maf (try cleaning it) or poor ECU config (tune related) or an injector leak. The misfire symptom is because the fuel is going all over the place. The fuel is going all over the place because something in the chain of command (maf -> ecu -> injector) isn't right. |
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#6 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Thanks kingtalon I did find exhaust leak between manifold and turbo, also leak at the turbo to elbow gasket. Getting that fixed soon. So I'll check everything again once that is done. I do need to get injectors checked just to be sure. I have not removed them to check 100%... Maf has been cleaned and tried another no change. No boost leaks
I'll try narrow band again. I did it once. Never really noticed a change. The biggest thing I'm worried about is the electric draw I guess it is when I hold the recs up and the wiper goes it makes the revs drop even if I'm holding the pedal constant at 3500 rpm Once I fix the exhaust leak I'll check back in. You came to my house once with your white kouki. To pick up a PS pump. Love that kouki haha Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk |
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#7 | |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
Age: 42
Posts: 4,829
Trader Rating: (17)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 17 reviews
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Quote:
If you suspect electrical draw/issue there are a few major wires to check. The first is battery (-) goes to both the intake manifold and chassis (by the battery tray). There is also a very important ground from the coilpacks to the back of the head. check these first. Next the 12V off the battery, it should go to starter and alternator with low resistance (large cable). You can check the resistance (do a continuity test) with a multi meter if you have any doubts about any of these major wires. From there, the harness is suspect. If you are using a wiring specialties harness there is a chance the problem is inside that. I have found sometimes their harness does not make a good connection somewhere, for example I found a poor coilpack connection at the ECU plug which would intermittently mis-fire on an engine. I had to shove some small bits of wire into the ECU plug to make it connect well enough to keep the car going. |
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#8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Yeah I have wiring specialties.
Battery is in the trunk. The (-) is ground to chassis. Paint removed and less than 2ft. It's 1/0 gauge battery cable for both positive and negative. Positive goes directly to the starter, with ecu power and alternator cable as well. All my grounds checked out including the ground for coil packs. I have a ground off the intake to chassis, head to chassis ect as in the pics I posted. All these issues were not present before even with the harness from wiring specialties. And it's not like it just started with anything changed. It's just out of nowhere kinda arrived and the dying is fairly new. Before it was just a lean idle and lean in boost intermittently Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk |
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