Updated: Engine builders in socal

[Bubbyriggins]

All the past threads are old and outdated. Any recommend shops in socal for oem style rebuilds?

[brndck]

this is one of the few times I would actually TELL someone to bump an old thread.

have you contacted any of the engine builders listed in the old and outdated threads?

[KA24DESOneThree]

I used Engine Machine Service in Inglewood professionally.

The only thing I don't trust them with is rocker arm refacing. Otherwise, they did work on aluminum and magnesium engine cases for me, polished and crack-checked cranks, and did head rebuilds and porting work. They're not cheap, but they're fairly priced.

I also use Motor Works Inc. in National City and they're alright. Head work isn't as good as EMS, but Mike does the piston fitting, crank and case work and is skilled.

Beyond that, my knowledge is fairly specific to air-cooled VW and Porsche.

[jedi03]

based on what i am seeing the need to ship out is becoming more necesary...I have one local machine shop i trust and one that i hear is good, otherwise I will be likely using Mazworx or other big name companies for my next machine job

[brndck]

Originally Posted by jedi03

based on what i am seeing the need to ship out is becoming more necesary...I have one local machine shop i trust and one that i hear is good, otherwise I will be likely using Mazworx or other big name companies for my next machine job

same. next long block build will most likely go to Jean Paul (jps14 on IG) in the northeast and juan vargas (bardabe) in texas.

[Kingtal0n]

if possible I would avoid machine work all together. Use a stock block hone the cyls yourself measure everything to FSM or better.





Machine work is where most of the errors occur

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by brndck

same. next long block build will most likely go to Jean Paul (jps14 on IG) in the northeast and juan vargas (bardabe) in texas.

Where in Texas is Juan at now and the shop? I haven't keep in touch with him for while now.

[KA24DESOneThree]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Machine work is where most of the errors occur

I once had a shop with a good reputation among enthusiasts do the work on a 911 engine case.

#1 was tapered from -.001 to +.0001. #2 was a half thou off, same with #3 and #8. Numbers 4,5,6 were all a thou tight. Number 7 was perfect, though.

Measure everything, regardless who did the work or how much you trust them.

[My!]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

Where in Texas is Juan at now and the shop? I haven't keep in touch with him for while now.

Austin TX, he just tuned my car last week. his instagram is Bardabe if you want to reach out; his other contact info is posted on there as well.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

if possible I would avoid machine work all together. Use a stock block hone the cyls yourself measure everything to FSM or better.





Machine work is where most of the errors occur

Kinda hard to line bore mains at home in the garage.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

if possible I would avoid machine work all together. Use a stock block hone the cyls yourself measure everything to FSM or better.
Machine work is where most of the errors occur

ideally yes, but for larger size pistons, stroker kits, billet mains, billet girdle, stepping up to 1/2" head studs, there will always be SOME machining required.

Detailed conversations with the machine shop need to be had BEFORE you agree to have them do the work. If they are not willing to show you each and every measurement (with calipers, micrometers, gauges, etc) after the job is done, then find a new machine shop. If they aren't willing to use torque plates while boring cylinders, find a new machine shop. Etc Etc Etc.

[Kingtal0n]

--. if the engine needs line boring,larger head studs, or any necessary machine work, evaluate the application to see if that work can be avoided.

For example, we have many old sr20det engines, 20 of them in various states from 20 years of use. All of them would require machine work and all you want is a daily driver, reliable transportation. Thus none are suitable and you would best served via finding a 21st completely OEM good conditions sr20 engine and rebuilding it back to OEM with no machine shop using FSM.

It depends on budget and application- ex. I would much prefer an 400rwhp OEM sr20 or 650rwhp 2jz instead of an LS but the cost (budget) difference forces me to use an LS, since either engine will fit my application (daily driver reliability near 200hp/liter) and there is no room for error, thus no machine work or other hands on the engines I select is a hard rule, cannot be broken if you want to really go 100-200k in the near future with that kind of power as your only car.


Many people don't have just 1 car, so this restriction is lifted easily if you choose to own 2 or more vehicles. Once you own a second reliable car the first one doesn't need to be reliable anymore, so you can go ahead and line bore it or whatever and take those risks. Its all about statistics when it comes to risk- and the easiest way to reduce risk in a single car application is to stick with as much of what the factory put into the engine in the first place, not because it is superior in performance or even quality but rather because it is undisturbed, guaranteed to be properly done (if you've seen 1000 of these same engines of a specific year say 1992-2002 for the last 20 years reach 200k 300k mileage it levels the playing field for all engines of that year) and highly likely to reach high mileage 200k 500k a million miles is possible from an engine if you fully care for it properly.

I get that sr20 are so ancient now many need machine shop help which is why I am suggesting re-evaluate the application. If you are not in a specific class that requires using a 2.0L or original power plant then there are other engines out there which weigh around the same and provide the same or superior performance.

The requisite of power (needing to have XYZ power for some reason) shouldn't get in the way of reliability unless the vehicle is being used in some kind of sponsorship competition where you are a paid driver and all parts and fuel are paid for free to compete. Bringing your OWN vehicle and paying for your own fuel to compete in anything is a 'selfish' indulgent hobby and the punishment scales with reliability and efficiency of the entire setup which comes back to who is choosing what parts to use.

To put it another way, if my intention was to enter my own vehicle in any track event for the purpose of entertainment then it means I am paying for everything myself, then the vehicle needs to maintain maximum reliability, not power. Thus I would choose the minimum amount of power which will maximize reliability. For example 50hp is a very small amount of power for a vehicle and if I take a typical sr20 and race it with just 50hp all day long the risk will be minimized dramatically in many ways. It won't be very fast but it would last forever in theory. But it might be just as reliable at 60hp as it was at 50hp. And so with 70hp, and 80hp, and 100hp, and 200hp... up to what? At some point there is some increase in risk with 400hp 500hp 600hp the risk is increasing more than just exponentially at some point because of all the other issues related to containing and controlled a high power output 2000hp+ safely but I digress- the point is somewhere between 50hp and say 420bhp for the sr20 there is a very low risk similar to what it has near 50hp when everything is tuned and setup properly it could last forever using OEM internals and that is the SAME risk you associate with the Original off the show room floor vehicle from the factory when it was purchased new to daily driver for 200,000 miles, and it is impossible to achieve that same risk and reliability the minute you perform any machine work or re-assembly that you do not or cannot verify has been done properly somehow.

So really I guess what I am saying is if you have some "reasons" that you needed 470+ bhp from an sr20det then you have to own another more reliable car and face the fact the sr20 will never fully reliable as a daily driver single car application. And so with 760hp+ 2jz engines and 1250hp+ LS engines. But owning a second car is expensive and overlooked as a cost associated with owning an unreliable race car that sits in a garage.

The real take away here is any engine listed is making less than stated numbers doesn't need machine work or much internal mods and can achieve the same reliability as factory.