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Old 12-16-2010, 12:10 PM   #1
shinobis13hb
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SR bov install. eliminating stock bov?

ok so i am running a stock sidemount on my black top sr, i am going to install a aftermarket BOV.

my question is if i take the line off the stock BOV and switch it to the after market BOV is the stock one still in use?
or can i jsut T off the line and run both BOV?

if someone could give me some pointers that would be great.

i am currently running 10LBS if that matters.
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:26 PM   #2
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Some weird things could happen depending on the type of BOV you add. I would just pull the stock one of and cap the hoses. No reason to run both
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:37 PM   #3
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^what he said, no need for 2 bov's cap it off and mount your aftermarket one
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:43 PM   #4
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i tried running a aftermarket bov on a stock setup and my car ran like crap plus it looked retarded stock side mount with aftermarket bov. why are you doing this? for looks or sound?
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismoman View Post
Some weird things could happen depending on the type of BOV you add. I would just pull the stock one of and cap the hoses. No reason to run both
what hose are you refering to? the recirculation hoses on the side mount to intake?

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Originally Posted by Ceepo View Post
^what he said, no need for 2 bov's cap it off and mount your aftermarket one
im leaning on that
Quote:
Originally Posted by buentellomma View Post
i tried running a aftermarket bov on a stock setup and my car ran like crap plus it looked retarded stock side mount with aftermarket bov. why are you doing this? for looks or sound?
well i installed it.. the snap ring was a BITCH! i am running the stock sidemount bov and the hks ssqv3 i installed. well the car feels like its losing boost. could someone explain why? i am probably going to cap off the stock one coudl someone explain what i need to do? i thought i could jsut take the vacume line off(run it to the new BOV) and cap the nipple coming on stock bov. PLEASE correct me if i am wrong. thanks for the help=]
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:52 AM   #6
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remove the stock recirc valve and plug the two open hoses or cap where the hoses attach to the intercooler. told you weird things would happen, lol.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:51 AM   #7
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save the headache and just keep the stock bov until you get a fmic
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinobis13hb View Post
ok so i am running a stock sidemount on my black top sr, i am going to install a aftermarket BOV.

my question is if i take the line off the stock BOV and switch it to the after market BOV is the stock one still in use?
or can i jsut T off the line and run both BOV?

if someone could give me some pointers that would be great.

i am currently running 10LBS if that matters.
Dude, stop what you are doing, and turn down your boost.
Don't run the SMIC in cali heat(I know it's winter atm, but still), with anything over 7lbs, or you are probably gonna be looking at some nice heat soak, and some nice damage to your piston.

Also, don't switch to an aftermarket BoV. The SMIC gives better response with the stock one, cause its recircd.

Just leave it alone until you get a FMIC.
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:07 PM   #9
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The stock SMIC is really not capable of 10psi? Even if your not boosting hard back to back or for long periods?
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaminaSan View Post
Dude, stop what you are doing, and turn down your boost.
Don't run the SMIC in cali heat(I know it's winter atm, but still), with anything over 7lbs, or you are probably gonna be looking at some nice heat soak, and some nice damage to your piston.

Also, don't switch to an aftermarket BoV. The SMIC gives better response with the stock one, cause its recircd.

Just leave it alone until you get a FMIC.
i learned this lesson the hard way 6 years ago.... 12 psi on stock intercooler in alabama summer = pistons in pieces
the side mount is ok for dd but anymore than that its safe to go with a larger intercooler
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick_04K View Post
The stock SMIC is really not capable of 10psi? Even if your not boosting hard back to back or for long periods?
Quote:
Originally Posted by buentellomma View Post
i learned this lesson the hard way 6 years ago.... 12 psi on stock intercooler in alabama summer = pistons in pieces
the side mount is ok for dd but anymore than that its safe to go with a larger intercooler
i will be getting a FMIC after X-mas im sure that will fix most if not ALL my problems. i dont PLAN on boosting more then 12LBS even with a FMIC its really not needed for DD there are plenty ways of getting MORE power then jsut turning up the boost=]
thanks for your help guys.
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinobis13hb View Post
i will be getting a FMIC after X-mas im sure that will fix most if not ALL my problems. i dont PLAN on boosting more then 12LBS even with a FMIC its really not needed for DD there are plenty ways of getting MORE power then jsut turning up the boost=]
thanks for your help guys.
are you planning on running larger injectors with your setup? i think 10psi is really pushing those 370cc injectors
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buentellomma View Post
are you planning on running larger injectors with your setup? i think 10psi is really pushing those 370cc injectors
well i dont think i need to replace the injectors with 12lbs if im correct you dont need to replace them unless you are going above 1 bar of boost.(14lbs.) if i get bigger injectors i have to get a tune. and if i get bigger injectors i might as well get a z32 MAF and get it tuned for all that but its something i dont need to really do on 12lbs. although i wouldent mind getting a safc piggyback with my stock setup (injectors and maf ect)
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinobis13hb View Post
well i dont think i need to replace the injectors with 12lbs if im correct you dont need to replace them unless you are going above 1 bar of boost.(14lbs.) if i get bigger injectors i have to get a tune. and if i get bigger injectors i might as well get a z32 MAF and get it tuned for all that but its something i dont need to really do on 12lbs. although i wouldent mind getting a safc piggyback with my stock setup (injectors and maf ect)
i think your pushing the limits of the stock injectors at 12lbs on a untuned motor. personally i would buy a a/f ratio gauge and monitor it to be on the safe side... i know for me its not worth boosting that much on a t25 on a stock setup being im on my 3rd sr20 motor i learned the hard way many years ago
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:36 PM   #15
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i did a little bit of searching for you, it seems most people are saying 10psi on stock injectors is about the max you want to go on a stock ecu.
www.ka-t.org :: View topic - 370cc injectors

370cc injectors and T25 - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash

Max boost with stock 370cc injectors? : SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)

in the end its your car and your motor so its your choice and if you blow it up by running lean then so be it
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buentellomma View Post
i did a little bit of searching for you, it seems most people are saying 10psi on stock injectors is about the max you want to go on a stock ecu.
www.ka-t.org :: View topic - 370cc injectors

370cc injectors and T25 - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash

Max boost with stock 370cc injectors? : SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)

in the end its your car and your motor so its your choice and if you blow it up by running lean then so be it
thanks for the reserch. i forgot to mention i am running a blitz tuned ecu. i will deff be getting a a/f meter after my front mount. also an adj fuel pressure regulator. i dont "push" my car i just DD it or only drive it 3 times in 7 days. ill read up on the links. eventually i WILL get a s15 spec r turbo or a disco potato but not for months to come. thanks for the input .
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:35 PM   #17
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12 pounds on 370's is fine. don't bother running anything besides a stock bov on the Smic. only run a new bov on a Fmic.
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Old 12-18-2010, 12:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinobis13hb View Post
thanks for the reserch. i forgot to mention i am running a blitz tuned ecu. i will deff be getting a a/f meter after my front mount. also an adj fuel pressure regulator. i dont "push" my car i just DD it or only drive it 3 times in 7 days. ill read up on the links. eventually i WILL get a s15 spec r turbo or a disco potato but not for months to come. thanks for the input .
Dude this is even worse! You got it done at pitgarage, same as me right? They gave me a mine's ecu, in mine, and I ran it for 3 months, before realizing, and come to find out these ECUs are tuned for 100 octane Japanese gas, with really advanced timing. Advanced timing, 91 octane, and high boost/heat= rod knock, and piston holes.

I'm surprise your engine hasn't blown yet. Please ease up the boost. Did you even get a walbro fuel pump?
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:48 AM   #19
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actually this 100 octane japanese gas thing is a bit misleading. the fact is that they dont measure octane the same as we do. So in reality their 100 octane is comparable to like our 93 octane, but......i guess in CA you cant get higher than 91 can you?
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Old 12-18-2010, 07:39 AM   #20
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Ok I have a question about this now if the op gets his fmic and the bov doesn't he still need to recirculate the system, I once read that if u don't recirculate the system that your car boggles out and sometimes die on u, since when you start spoiling your maf is reading the amount of air your getting and telling the computer the correct amount of fuel to dump into the engine, so when the system is not recirculated the computer is dumping too much fuel into the engine when it's not getting enough air, thus messing with your a/f ratio. Can someone clarify on this please, sorry not trying to thread jack but don't want to start a new thread on basically the same topic.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:09 AM   #21
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I'm almost sick to my stomach reading this post. It's 2010...there are countless turbo resources out there, and people ask questions that weren't even asked 5 years/10 years ago when no information was even vailable!

Ey yi yi.


shinobis13hb,

1.leave the stock one on your car. Don't be a ricer by adding a noise maker (bov) to a stockish setup. I don't care how cool it may sound, it's not worth the aggrevation or install.

2. You have a OE side mount intcerooler, designed for commutting, marginal spirited driving. Will it work? Sure...but so will filling out your Tax forms with a Crayon. The RIGHT way is to add a FMIC before increasing power or boost.

3. Ditch that Blitz ECU


In the end, when you add a BOV, do it correctly with a new flange, removing the old one, and of course recirculating it correctly. Don't cheap out.



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Old 12-18-2010, 08:10 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s14freak93901 View Post
12 pounds on 370's is fine. don't bother running anything besides a stock bov on the Smic. only run a new bov on a Fmic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nismoman View Post
actually this 100 octane japanese gas thing is a bit misleading. the fact is that they dont measure octane the same as we do. So in reality their 100 octane is comparable to like our 93 octane, but......i guess in CA you cant get higher than 91 can you?
100 Japanese Octane is like 95/96 US octane

So even still, you're running lean/dangerously with it.
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:27 PM   #23
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Ok I have a question about this now if the op gets his fmic and the bov doesn't he still need to recirculate the system, I once read that if u don't recirculate the system that your car boggles out and sometimes die on u, since when you start spoiling your maf is reading the amount of air your getting and telling the computer the correct amount of fuel to dump into the engine, so when the system is not recirculated the computer is dumping too much fuel into the engine when it's not getting enough air, thus messing with your a/f ratio. Can someone clarify on this please, sorry not trying to thread jack but don't want to start a new thread on basically the same topic.
i dont run a recirculate system on mine and it runs fine, doesnt bog, doesnt use more gas, it drives like a normal turbo car. maybe people have that issue because they still use the oem turbo intake tube and just cap it off?
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Old 12-18-2010, 04:00 PM   #24
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as long as the bov isnt leaking you should be fine. my old hks was leaking so it was all stupid
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Old 12-18-2010, 04:35 PM   #25
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A non-recirculated setup will not run nearly as well. You will have to raise the idle to not die at a stoplight, you WILL waste more gas, andyour car will not beas responsive.
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Old 12-18-2010, 07:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buentellomma View Post
i dont run a recirculate system on mine and it runs fine, doesnt bog, doesnt use more gas, it drives like a normal turbo car. maybe people have that issue because they still use the oem turbo intake tube and just cap it off?
You've obviously either become accustomed to a shitty driving car, or you've never been in a properly setup one.

Sorry dude, you're not going to convince anyone here that your car can idle at stock, and not stall. You must have a magic damn car.

Quote:
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as long as the bov isnt leaking you should be fine. my old hks was leaking so it was all stupid
Any HKS sucks. Why? Non recirculated SSQV blows.


Quote:
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A non-recirculated setup will not run nearly as well. You will have to raise the idle to not die at a stoplight, you WILL waste more gas, andyour car will not beas responsive.
Amen Brother
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:05 PM   #27
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You've obviously either become accustomed to a shitty driving car, or you've never been in a properly setup one.

Sorry dude, you're not going to convince anyone here that your car can idle at stock, and not stall. You must have a magic damn car.



Any HKS sucks. Why? Non recirculated SSQV blows.




Amen Brother
Well, this isn't entirely true. While a non recirc BoV does suck compared to a recircd one, the dying at a stop light is not really true.
I have a shitty cxracing BoV vented, and the only time I get any bog is when I boost, blow off valve vents, and then I come to a stop/don't up/down shift. It causes my rpms to fall to 5/600, then shoot back up to 850.

Just sayin...
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:10 PM   #28
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Well, this isn't entirely true. While a non recirc BoV does suck compared to a recircd one, the dying at a stop light is not really true.
I have a shitty cxracing BoV vented, and the only time I get any bog is when I boost, blow off valve vents, and then I come to a stop/don't up/down shift. It causes my rpms to fall to 5/600, then shoot back up to 850.

Just sayin...

Your shit is wrong

Just saying

My stuff is recirculated, makes twice the HP and probabyl drives like grannies buick

Just saying

Anytime you need to modify how you drive a car from 'stock' or normal, it's not right.

just saying
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:42 PM   #29
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now hks DOES make s recerc fitting corrrect? or you can ez fab one up. this thread has gotten more attention then i thought ha ha.if you can recerc a ssqv then there shouldn't be a problem.eventually i will change my bov in the future. now i have driven cars with voxson that are not recerc and the idle does not drop it drives just fine. stock ecus and stock tune.
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:12 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Your shit is wrong

Just saying

My stuff is recirculated, makes twice the HP and probabyl drives like grannies buick

Just saying

Anytime you need to modify how you drive a car from 'stock' or normal, it's not right.

just saying
Not exactly sure where you are coming from, but the point I'm trying to get across is that just because you have your BoV vented, doesn't mean that it cannot idle/will die at stoplights.

Slow your roll, don't get all pissy. I don't care how much HP you have, the concept of the car dying at a stoplight because your BoV isn't recircd isn't going to change just because you have a built engine(Unless maybe because of cams).

JUST SAYIN
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someone in the car is screaming when that deadly t25 spools up!
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