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Old 12-22-2009, 05:37 PM   #1
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installed new valve cover today... legit status... made a temp catch can until the greddy one arrives...

While putting new valve cover on I see my wastegate vacuum line is broken. Awesome

Autozone and 3 bucks later hose is replaced, still mad hesitation.

I also purchased some ichiba hubcentric 10mm spacers for my rear so I can get my herra frush on. I'm not going to enjoy removing the old wheel studs...

At All
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:18 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Om1kron View Post
installed new valve cover today... legit status... made a temp catch can until the greddy one arrives...

While putting new valve cover on I see my wastegate vacuum line is broken. Awesome

Autozone and 3 bucks later hose is replaced, still mad hesitation.

I also purchased some ichiba hubcentric 10mm spacers for my rear so I can get my herra frush on. I'm not going to enjoy removing the old wheel studs...

At All
PB Blaster, old lugnut, *bang bang bang*, stud removed

That valve cover's boss. What color'd you paint it?
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:49 PM   #3
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What is the point of that valve cover?
I've seen them before, but never in any of the JDM mags or videos.
(Only seen USA guys do it)
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:51 PM   #4
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the valve cover is dope. i had luisgonz build me 2. one is for sale and i'm keeping the other one. allegedly it does a better job at collecting oil that would normally be pushing out into your catch can. honestly i'm just a sucker for shiny parts and i think it looks sick. all the lettering on mine is shaved.
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I've seen them before, but never in any of the JDM mags or videos.
(Only seen USA guys do it)
haha maybe i'll list my 2nd one on yaj. "suuuuper usdm tyte yo!!!!"
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it'll fit JANK.. and no one likes Jank except Broke ass zilvians.
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Old 12-22-2009, 09:12 PM   #5
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Why would I paint my valve cover lol... I don't drive around with my hood popped. I wiped it off and slapped it on. Threw the old one in a trashbag and put it in my trunk. When I get some skrill, I'll have Luis make me a new cold pipe and a proper intake pipe to utilize the greddy catch can properly.

If this doesn't get rid of my boost leak. I'll cry.
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Old 12-22-2009, 09:35 PM   #6
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Why would I paint my valve cover

To rice it out bruh.

I'm definitely doing mine.


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Old 12-22-2009, 09:36 PM   #7
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No select, start button... fail.
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:11 AM   #8
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No select, start button... fail.

Woah bro.

Your's isn't even painted.
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Old 12-22-2009, 11:55 PM   #9
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yeah... i need to find out what I did for my bolts for my ac low pressure side so I'm not running an empty compressor
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:18 AM   #10
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Yeah it is... there is some red on it still lol.
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:59 PM   #11
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Somewhere out there, Luisgonz is facepalming... *ahem* catch can.



Hopefully some funds free up and he can just do his magic in there and re-organize shit.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:42 PM   #12
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Somewhere out there, Luisgonz is facepalming... *ahem* catch can.



Hopefully some funds free up and he can just do his magic in there and re-organize shit.
Do you need to borrow some money for some proper -8an hose? LOL.
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Old 12-23-2009, 10:24 PM   #13
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in due time my friend...
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Old 12-25-2009, 05:57 PM   #14
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I mentioned I was going to get a video of my car moving to show you i'm getting some weird ass hesitation when going into boost. When this motor was in my s13, it boosted all the time no problemo, I take it out and put it in my s14...minus the ebay charge pipes for an s14 motor on an s13sr... same setup as before. And now I get hesitation after un-seizing the blow off valve.

Simone Video Blog - Why so serious? on Vimeo

here is a walk around of the car... yes I know my license plate in front is crooked, the password jdm bracket came with a washer and I threw it in my garage like... WTF would you just give me 1 washer for...

I now know why...

My car is registered and garage kept at my moms house according to the dmv... so looking up the plates is useless hence why they're never blurred out...
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Old 12-27-2009, 05:55 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Om1kron View Post
I mentioned I was going to get a video of my car moving to show you i'm getting some weird ass hesitation when going into boost. When this motor was in my s13, it boosted all the time no problemo, I take it out and put it in my s14...minus the ebay charge pipes for an s14 motor on an s13sr... same setup as before. And now I get hesitation after un-seizing the blow off valve.

Simone Video Blog - Why so serious? on Vimeo

here is a walk around of the car... yes I know my license plate in front is crooked, the password jdm bracket came with a washer and I threw it in my garage like... WTF would you just give me 1 washer for...

I now know why...

My car is registered and garage kept at my moms house according to the dmv... so looking up the plates is useless hence why they're never blurred out...
You're hurting your motor flooring it like that under full load with it hesitating I wouldnt do that too much.

It looks like your car needs to be properly tuned. It sounds like a combination of your timing and your fuel being way off, possibly your injector correction input and MAF is not working properly either. Not sure what EMS or Injectors you are running I don't have enough time to track this thread all the way back but this would be the issue I am leaning towards. If you are running larger injectors I suggest using a PFC, Tomei, Haltech or AEM unit for tuning. If you require base map for tuning I can help you out on this as well

If your intake pipe off the front of the turbo is obstructed or not working properly this could cause an issue as well. I would check into this and make sure it is not collapsing on itself or it is sealed up tight against your maf so Air is not getting into the motor after the MAF location.
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Old 12-27-2009, 06:06 PM   #16
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You're hurting your motor flooring it like that under full load with it hesitating I wouldnt do that too much.

It looks like your car needs to be properly tuned. It sounds like a combination of your timing and your fuel being way off, possibly your injector correction input and MAF is not working properly either. Not sure what EMS or Injectors you are running I don't have enough time to track this thread all the way back but this would be the issue I am leaning towards. If you are running larger injectors I suggest using a PFC, Tomei, Haltech or AEM unit for tuning. If you require base map for tuning I can help you out on this as well

If your intake pipe off the front of the turbo is obstructed or not working properly this could cause an issue as well. I would check into this and make sure it is not collapsing on itself or it is sealed up tight against your maf so Air is not getting into the motor after the MAF location.

It's stock everything, that's why I didn't suggest anything in regard to the tune.

Again, If the car ran perfectly before, and if the harness was changed for s14, and nothing else...(and the knock sensor delete)...then the troubleshooting issue is really 'to easy' and in either of the above. I'd focus less on the hardware and more on the few changes that were made. Even though the Knock Sensor is a oddball item, I'd never 'remove it'just for the hell of it.
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:36 PM   #17
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i'm gonna hold your mom hostage like the green goblin did to spiderman with mary jane

better give me da car or else
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:41 PM   #18
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you don't want this car, it doesn't even have bride seats, and never will.
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:42 PM   #19
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is it possible that its something with the engine management?

oh yeah no bride or nardi minus street cred~! haha jk
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:51 PM   #20
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I mean I switched from a redtop ecu to a blacktop ecu. it hesitates slightly less with the blacktop ecu. And anyone with an allen wrench can take your nardi wheel, and anyone with a removable hub can put their steering wheel on your car... I like using a club as a theft deterent...

you need bolt cutters or a saw to get past the steering wheel, once you get that far, you gotta figure out how to turn it on, and I don't have tint.

So this makes that hard during the day.
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:54 PM   #21
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I really don't have a clude as to what the problem is..but did some random searching and found this..SR20DET bogs hard just before boost - FreshAlloy.com Forums

Good luck, I know it would drive me insane.
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:57 PM   #22
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brotha, I've looked at everyone of those threads, and it's always some retarded shit like check your injectors, check for leaks, blah blah blah. At first I thought it was my bov leaking, I completely closed it and nada, more surge.
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:00 AM   #23
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thats really odd

all else i could think of besides the engine management would be sensors sending bad info to the ecu

o2 sensor or MAF

last resort FUEL PUMP?

(sorry if you checked these things already i didn't read)
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:04 AM   #24
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"You dont have plug wires the SR20 uses coilpacks. I can gaurantee it's your plugs if its going on only under full throttle. Either that or you TPS isnt adjusted correctly or not working. Do the plugs and gap them to something like .35 if your running a basic setup"

Thats a response to the original post in this thread...
redtop sr20DET hesitation...WHY? - Beyond.ca - Car Forums

Then there's this post of interest...

"GONEINSANE my friend i laugh at your question! Why you ask , well i had the EXACT problem and i can give you a little bit of info and hopefully it will help. Does this problem happen when you floor it or change gears real quick like when you race off the lights? It hesitates for a bit usually revs dropped to between 2-3000 then it will take off. Doesnt have to be racing still happens every now and then hey! Well it took me months of trying to figure it out. Firstly check your KNOCK SENSOR, it could be retarding the timing, to check this all that needs to be done is have your mechanic hook it up to his computer and it will say if it is causing a problem. I changed my fuel filter, fuel pump, sparks, computer, air flow meter you name it i changed it. Didnt fix anything. If you have an aftermarket BOV it could be causing it too. Sometimes it plays with the computer adding a new BOV. Make sure your stock one is completely disconnected. The last thing to do is advance the timing a little. I guarantee its not the pump, what helps too is a custom dump pipe, i bet you have a cat back exhaust. Get the full exhaust system get your knock sensor looked at and BOV if not then ?????? "

Taken from this thread
SR20DET Hesitation - Hardtuned.net
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:07 AM   #25
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if it was the plugs (gap) it could be experiencing blow out at WOT

but it doesn't seem likely? things like this are always with the electronics / tune / sensors if its not a leak
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:11 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by s0apgun View Post
if it was the plugs (gap) it could be experiencing blow out at WOT

but it doesn't seem likely? things like this are always with the electronics / tune / sensors if its not a leak
There is no knock sensor, I jigged that a long time ago because the car was pulling a code 34, I put a new knock sensor on it, same deal, code 34, pulling timing. I put an ohm resistor in that bitch... everything is dandy candy with the knock sensor.

My knock sensor wiring is correct and to FSM specs, I dunno why it always throws that bullshit. I don't backfire at all, car just pulls timing. Again, car ran perfect with the knock sensor before. The maf blew, I replaced it.

My 02 sensor is the only other thing I can think of, I am using a fat02 sensor from my ka24de instead of the sr20 one is skinny and I don't want to blow 75 bucks on a new one if thats not a gaurenteed fix especially when I'm told I don't even need the 02 sensor.

Funny thing you mention the waste gate, I saw the other day when installing my new valve cover that the vacuum line for the wg was split right down the middle. The housing for the WG itself may be full of oil due to the blow by issues I was having before putting on the new valve cover and catch can set up.

I went to autozone and got 3 dollars worth of line and replaced it and still the same deal. I may end up picking up an hks wastegate just incase mine is bad, but I seriously doubt it.
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:08 AM   #27
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Also saw suggestions of wastegate problems and cleaning the maf????
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:15 AM   #28
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doesn't seem likely

builds / holds boost fine at normal throttle
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:26 AM   #29
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Again another thread concerning similar issue..a did a thread search for coil pack, and correct me if I'm wrong did you at some point replace one? Well the guy in the thread I found did, here's his story

"O.K. My buddy has found the solution to the hesitation.

The hesitation started a few months ago. At the time we determined it was one of the coil packs for the spark plugs that was not igniting the way it should. We replaced it and it was still hesitating but not as bad as before.

He checked almost everything from Ecu, all electrical, wire harness, fuel pump, injectors, leaky intercoolers and so on.

He decided to go back at the begining and look at coil packs again and noticed a slight difference on the one that he got replaced compared to the original one.

There is a sticker with numbers on the original ones(S13) and a stamped/engraved number on the one he replaced. He compared them at a nissan shop specializing in 240 swaps and realized that the coil pack was from a S14 black top engine. When he bought it, he was told s13.

Lesson learned, Make sure that you have the right coil pack for the type of engine you have. They look very similiar and is decieving. It runs awsome now."
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:30 AM   #30
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one of them does look slightly different. The new one, I can put the old one back in and see if that makes a difference. I only replaced it because the body has a crack in it, but the car ran fine even with that single crack.

I seriously doubt that makes a difference.

Nissan OEM Ignition Coil Pack S13/S14 SR20DET Engine
Item #: Nissan_S13SRIgnCoil

that's what it's listed as at FR sport.
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