Om1krons Build thread cause I hate the lack of them! S14

[Om1kron]

Yeah it is... there is some red on it still lol.

[Om1kron]

Somewhere out there, Luisgonz is facepalming... *ahem* catch can.



Hopefully some funds free up and he can just do his magic in there and re-organize shit.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Somewhere out there, Luisgonz is facepalming... *ahem* catch can.



Hopefully some funds free up and he can just do his magic in there and re-organize shit.

Do you need to borrow some money for some proper -8an hose? LOL.

[Om1kron]

in due time my friend...

[Om1kron]

I mentioned I was going to get a video of my car moving to show you i'm getting some weird ass hesitation when going into boost. When this motor was in my s13, it boosted all the time no problemo, I take it out and put it in my s14...minus the ebay charge pipes for an s14 motor on an s13sr... same setup as before. And now I get hesitation after un-seizing the blow off valve.

Simone Video Blog - Why so serious? on Vimeo

here is a walk around of the car... yes I know my license plate in front is crooked, the password jdm bracket came with a washer and I threw it in my garage like... WTF would you just give me 1 washer for...

I now know why...

My car is registered and garage kept at my moms house according to the dmv... so looking up the plates is useless hence why they're never blurred out...

[lflkajfj12123]

i'm gonna hold your mom hostage like the green goblin did to spiderman with mary jane

better give me da car or else

[Om1kron]

you don't want this car, it doesn't even have bride seats, and never will.

[lflkajfj12123]

is it possible that its something with the engine management?

oh yeah no bride or nardi minus street cred~! haha jk

[Om1kron]

I mean I switched from a redtop ecu to a blacktop ecu. it hesitates slightly less with the blacktop ecu. And anyone with an allen wrench can take your nardi wheel, and anyone with a removable hub can put their steering wheel on your car... I like using a club as a theft deterent...

you need bolt cutters or a saw to get past the steering wheel, once you get that far, you gotta figure out how to turn it on, and I don't have tint.

So this makes that hard during the day.

[s13pignose]

I really don't have a clude as to what the problem is..but did some random searching and found this..SR20DET bogs hard just before boost - FreshAlloy.com Forums

Good luck, I know it would drive me insane.

[Om1kron]

brotha, I've looked at everyone of those threads, and it's always some retarded shit like check your injectors, check for leaks, blah blah blah. At first I thought it was my bov leaking, I completely closed it and nada, more surge.

[lflkajfj12123]

thats really odd

all else i could think of besides the engine management would be sensors sending bad info to the ecu

o2 sensor or MAF

last resort FUEL PUMP?

(sorry if you checked these things already i didn't read)

[s13pignose]

"You dont have plug wires the SR20 uses coilpacks. I can gaurantee it's your plugs if its going on only under full throttle. Either that or you TPS isnt adjusted correctly or not working. Do the plugs and gap them to something like .35 if your running a basic setup"

Thats a response to the original post in this thread...
redtop sr20DET hesitation...WHY? - Beyond.ca - Car Forums

Then there's this post of interest...

"GONEINSANE my friend i laugh at your question! Why you ask , well i had the EXACT problem and i can give you a little bit of info and hopefully it will help. Does this problem happen when you floor it or change gears real quick like when you race off the lights? It hesitates for a bit usually revs dropped to between 2-3000 then it will take off. Doesnt have to be racing still happens every now and then hey! Well it took me months of trying to figure it out. Firstly check your KNOCK SENSOR, it could be retarding the timing, to check this all that needs to be done is have your mechanic hook it up to his computer and it will say if it is causing a problem. I changed my fuel filter, fuel pump, sparks, computer, air flow meter you name it i changed it. Didnt fix anything. If you have an aftermarket BOV it could be causing it too. Sometimes it plays with the computer adding a new BOV. Make sure your stock one is completely disconnected. The last thing to do is advance the timing a little. I guarantee its not the pump, what helps too is a custom dump pipe, i bet you have a cat back exhaust. Get the full exhaust system get your knock sensor looked at and BOV if not then ?????? "

Taken from this thread
SR20DET Hesitation - Hardtuned.net

[lflkajfj12123]

if it was the plugs (gap) it could be experiencing blow out at WOT

but it doesn't seem likely? things like this are always with the electronics / tune / sensors if its not a leak

[s13pignose]

Also saw suggestions of wastegate problems and cleaning the maf????

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by s0apgun

if it was the plugs (gap) it could be experiencing blow out at WOT

but it doesn't seem likely? things like this are always with the electronics / tune / sensors if its not a leak

There is no knock sensor, I jigged that a long time ago because the car was pulling a code 34, I put a new knock sensor on it, same deal, code 34, pulling timing. I put an ohm resistor in that bitch... everything is dandy candy with the knock sensor.

My knock sensor wiring is correct and to FSM specs, I dunno why it always throws that bullshit. I don't backfire at all, car just pulls timing. Again, car ran perfect with the knock sensor before. The maf blew, I replaced it.

My 02 sensor is the only other thing I can think of, I am using a fat02 sensor from my ka24de instead of the sr20 one is skinny and I don't want to blow 75 bucks on a new one if thats not a gaurenteed fix especially when I'm told I don't even need the 02 sensor.

Funny thing you mention the waste gate, I saw the other day when installing my new valve cover that the vacuum line for the wg was split right down the middle. The housing for the WG itself may be full of oil due to the blow by issues I was having before putting on the new valve cover and catch can set up.

I went to autozone and got 3 dollars worth of line and replaced it and still the same deal. I may end up picking up an hks wastegate just incase mine is bad, but I seriously doubt it.

[lflkajfj12123]

doesn't seem likely

builds / holds boost fine at normal throttle

[s13pignose]

Again another thread concerning similar issue..a did a thread search for coil pack, and correct me if I'm wrong did you at some point replace one? Well the guy in the thread I found did, here's his story

"O.K. My buddy has found the solution to the hesitation.

The hesitation started a few months ago. At the time we determined it was one of the coil packs for the spark plugs that was not igniting the way it should. We replaced it and it was still hesitating but not as bad as before.

He checked almost everything from Ecu, all electrical, wire harness, fuel pump, injectors, leaky intercoolers and so on.

He decided to go back at the begining and look at coil packs again and noticed a slight difference on the one that he got replaced compared to the original one.

There is a sticker with numbers on the original ones(S13) and a stamped/engraved number on the one he replaced. He compared them at a nissan shop specializing in 240 swaps and realized that the coil pack was from a S14 black top engine. When he bought it, he was told s13.

Lesson learned, Make sure that you have the right coil pack for the type of engine you have. They look very similiar and is decieving. It runs awsome now."

[Om1kron]

one of them does look slightly different. The new one, I can put the old one back in and see if that makes a difference. I only replaced it because the body has a crack in it, but the car ran fine even with that single crack.

I seriously doubt that makes a difference.

Nissan OEM Ignition Coil Pack S13/S14 SR20DET Engine
Item #: Nissan_S13SRIgnCoil

that's what it's listed as at FR sport.

[s13pignose]

Yeah I'm just throwing ideas out and what I find...funny thing is I just have a nearly stock ka. So a lot of this stuff is kinda new, but makes for good reading and maybe learning something new. Just really interested in what the problem is, cause I imagine it being quite frustrating

[lflkajfj12123]

trouble shooting is awesome -_-

[Enna]

Totally dude. Totally.

[codyace]

The car is reacting like one that would be in limp mode.

I know this sounds funny, but how is the diagnostic screw on the ECU itself? I've seen cars develop oddness like this when screws are half ass broken, or over adjusted etc etc. Part throttle all the way to redline, but unhappy when goosing it (just like your video)

Another thing to potentially check is the condition of the MAFS and the CAS itself. They are two other parts of the system that would trigger limp mode or similar symptoms (as will the coolant temp sensor, but that's unlikely in this instance). With so many SR cars, there is no way to swap and test?


It's not the BOV (if it wasn't strong enough you won't even make boost, maybe 1 to 2 psi) , I really doubt it's the pipes (plenty of cars with crappy welds run just fine), and I also doubt the O2 sensor difference(as when you go WOT it's ignored on a stock ECU, and just cruising around it's used...yours works fine cruising around).


These is the same harness and same components you've always had/used?

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by codyace

The car is reacting like one that would be in limp mode.

I know this sounds funny, but how is the diagnostic screw on the ECU itself?

I've only turned it once to check the codes, it randomly threw the same codes it did before... water temp, knock sensor, and maf when my fuel pump died. I turned the car off and turned it back on and the codes went away. (Threw a 55) As you can see in the video water temp to the cluster itself doesn't work, but neither do the odometer and the other little 4 number indacator that I am putting mileage on it.

I do believe this cluster has been tampered with. But again that's not a problem because the temp sensor for the ecu is completely separate. And I've put a new one on the car.

I've seen cars develop oddness like this when screws are half ass broken, or over adjusted etc etc. Part throttle all the way to redline, but unhappy when goosing it (just like your video)

Yeah I doubt it's that, I know how to read instructions my man so it's where it's supposed to be for the car to operate. Solid red light when key is on the on position. Letting me know the car is ready.

Another thing to potentially check is the condition of the MAFS and the CAS itself.

The Mafs I just replaced, I kept the old broken mafs just in case, I got a video of my idle because when the car is in limp mode it runs rich and shoots out black smoke and backfires. This also will happen if I remove my knock sensor resistor and the car wont drive past 3000 rpms.

The cas on the other hand could be the culprit, my hot pipe literally touches it. And may have damaged it, visually it looks fine. But I know electronics normally aren't heated to 200 degree's either.

These is the same harness and same components you've always had/used?

The engine used to be in an s13, the harness was converted for an s14 that's the only difference. Once the harness was converted and I removed 5 feet of unnecessary wiring from the knock sensor, that whole deal stopped working.

One day we did turn the s13 on without a battery in it just to move it. Stuck a battery in, started the car removed battery and moved the car to pull the engine. It ran funny of course but I don't know what caused that.

[PoorMans180SX]

If you want to pay for sending me that valve cover back and forth, I'll give it a decent polish job for free. It won't be mirror finish, but it will look better than that! hahaaha.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

As you can see in the video water temp to the cluster itself doesn't work, but neither do the odometer and the other little 4 number indacator that I am putting mileage on it.

Sometimes people tap into the cas signal to get tach signal to make it all work. You see this on s13 harnesses especially. It could be a poor connection here being the lack of tach culprit, but this connection wouldn't be intermittant in regard to how it ran

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Yeah I doubt it's that, I know how to read instructions my man so it's where it's supposed to be for the car to operate. Solid red light when key is on the on position. Letting me know the car is ready.

I'm not doubting your ability to read, just doubting the crappy 20 year old ECU's we all like to tinker with. I've had ones where the tape is still OE, and you goto do a quick diag and it's like fubar from the get go.

If these jiggles into the slightest bit of diag mode, the car do EXACTLY what you are experiencing...when I first got my SR running ages ago, it did what your car is doing...this is why I always check that little POS screw out as some of the lamest electrical problems can result from that thing not being happy.

Again, food for thought. Maybe not your solution, but something to keep in mind.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

This also will happen if I remove my knock sensor resistor and the car wont drive past 3000 rpms.

The car throws a 34 anytime it drives with knock hooked up right? What about going to the junkyard and grabbing any ole knock sensor, and just attaching it to the frame/some other place just to make the circuit happy, but disregard knock? I know it sorta defeats the purpose of the KS, and that your resistor may work, but if removing it causes the car to run like crap as well...then I'd also be looking into whatever you did with the KS

Originally Posted by Om1kron

The cas on the other hand could be the culprit, my hot pipe literally touches it. And may have damaged it, visually it looks fine. But I know electronics normally aren't heated to 200 degree's either.

Hard to say. That big plastic covering is just that...just a big plastic covering. If you take yours apart you'll see most of the electronics and the ring are way down inside it. It's worth a shot though with these. They can go bad. Look at FWD Sentras and Honda guys...when dizzys go bad, it sound similar to your car as well. If the signal is messy messy, it could send improper signal to fire the c-packs, and well, that'll happen. Those stupid CAS's are really chinsey inside too... almost scarey to th ink that's how they all work ya know?


I'd start be re-introducing the KS that you removed, and look at whatever was done to convert it to the s14 harness. If it ran before, and the engine was all happy before, then you just gotta look at what was changed. It's an electrical issue for sure, so I'd spend less time looking at hardware (pipes leaks etc etc) at this point, as it's not going to fix the stumble.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by s0apgun

trouble shooting is fucking annoying

Nailed it.

[Spitfire8o5]

your car is attractive man, good work!! keep it up

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

I mentioned I was going to get a video of my car moving to show you i'm getting some weird ass hesitation when going into boost. When this motor was in my s13, it boosted all the time no problemo, I take it out and put it in my s14...minus the ebay charge pipes for an s14 motor on an s13sr... same setup as before. And now I get hesitation after un-seizing the blow off valve.

Simone Video Blog - Why so serious? on Vimeo

here is a walk around of the car... yes I know my license plate in front is crooked, the password jdm bracket came with a washer and I threw it in my garage like... WTF would you just give me 1 washer for...

I now know why...

My car is registered and garage kept at my moms house according to the dmv... so looking up the plates is useless hence why they're never blurred out...

You're hurting your motor flooring it like that under full load with it hesitating I wouldnt do that too much.

It looks like your car needs to be properly tuned. It sounds like a combination of your timing and your fuel being way off, possibly your injector correction input and MAF is not working properly either. Not sure what EMS or Injectors you are running I don't have enough time to track this thread all the way back but this would be the issue I am leaning towards. If you are running larger injectors I suggest using a PFC, Tomei, Haltech or AEM unit for tuning. If you require base map for tuning I can help you out on this as well

If your intake pipe off the front of the turbo is obstructed or not working properly this could cause an issue as well. I would check into this and make sure it is not collapsing on itself or it is sealed up tight against your maf so Air is not getting into the motor after the MAF location.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

You're hurting your motor flooring it like that under full load with it hesitating I wouldnt do that too much.

It looks like your car needs to be properly tuned. It sounds like a combination of your timing and your fuel being way off, possibly your injector correction input and MAF is not working properly either. Not sure what EMS or Injectors you are running I don't have enough time to track this thread all the way back but this would be the issue I am leaning towards. If you are running larger injectors I suggest using a PFC, Tomei, Haltech or AEM unit for tuning. If you require base map for tuning I can help you out on this as well

If your intake pipe off the front of the turbo is obstructed or not working properly this could cause an issue as well. I would check into this and make sure it is not collapsing on itself or it is sealed up tight against your maf so Air is not getting into the motor after the MAF location.

It's stock everything, that's why I didn't suggest anything in regard to the tune.

Again, If the car ran perfectly before, and if the harness was changed for s14, and nothing else...(and the knock sensor delete)...then the troubleshooting issue is really 'to easy' and in either of the above. I'd focus less on the hardware and more on the few changes that were made. Even though the Knock Sensor is a oddball item, I'd never 'remove it'just for the hell of it.