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Old 02-10-2008, 11:59 PM   #1
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Battery relocation secureness?

Just wondering what ways people have secured their batteries when relocated so that they do not move around the back and cause havoc like mine did (ugh rust). Pics would be great!
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:05 AM   #2
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Battery box + battery tie-down, both available at your local auto parts store. Sorry no pictures of mine atm.
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:07 AM   #3
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Taylor battery box, $100 and change with 2 guage cables from PAW. It is pretty complicated to mount the battery there though as you have to fab a support platform since the floor is not flat. Also the frame runs right under it so it is kinda tricky to locate the holes for the hold-down rods. I don't wanna brag, but this is the best set-up I have seen so far in my opinion.
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:16 AM   #4
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I have mine in the right rear most part of the hatch, fits perfectly in that corner and only cost me ~$50.
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:22 AM   #5
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The problem with that is being mounted that high and that far back in the chasis it has a pendulum effect, not to mention the extra cable weight. You wanna keep as much of the weight as possible within the wheelbase, as low as possible, and position it strategically to help corner weight the car. There is really no point to relocating the battery at all unless you are serious about weight management. If you need space for an intercooler pipe just get a smaller battery, if the tray is all rusted out just weld in a better one with a lighter battery and you'll be good. Shit you could even bolt something in to support it.
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:22 AM   #6
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Another option besides relocating is going with the a smaller dry cell battery. Just throwing that out there encase you think relocating is your only option.


Ninja Edit: Pretty much what racepar1 just posted seconds before me lol
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:15 PM   #7
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thanks for the info, i think i will go dry cell but i have no place to mount the battery really b/c of my front mount, i will have to go with a small dry cell one and find way to secure it up front.
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:21 PM   #8
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got to bralie auto to get a battery have mine it weighs 11.5lbs as small as a motorcycle battery and has the jus to do the job http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...hlight=battery
also they're race proven
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:22 PM   #9
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smaller batteries aren't always options for daily drivers, unless you upgrade the alternator to deal with the stereo
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:23 PM   #10
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smaller batteries aren't always options for daily drivers, unless you upgrade the alternator to deal with the stereo
actuall these batteries are perfect for that just a little fyi use in my DD and works great with cold starts and everything including my 500w subs so
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:32 PM   #11
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i have mine tied down with one of the autozone/ advanced auto parts -$20 universal tie downs... just screw it down with self taping screws, been with it more than a year and seen some good drift/track abuse and still holding the battery strong in place...
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:36 PM   #12
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I did the autozone special myself. Eventually I'm going to get a smaller battery and go back up front. My boy runs a John Deer tractor battery and it seems to work well for him.
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Old 02-11-2008, 03:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racepar1 View Post

Taylor battery box, $100 and change with 2 guage cables from PAW. It is pretty complicated to mount the battery there though as you have to fab a support platform since the floor is not flat. Also the frame runs right under it so it is kinda tricky to locate the holes for the hold-down rods. I don't wanna brag, but this is the best set-up I have seen so far in my opinion.
Best set up for certain purpose.

Some people like interiors and such - I know its crazy.
Relocating to the trunk works awesome, especially in S14, where you got the holes ready for you :P
weight of the cables? corner balancing? WTF? This is zilvia. Where megan coliovers and ebay suspension links are standard!!!!:hammer:
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Old 02-11-2008, 05:40 PM   #14
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But if you're not serious about weight management there is no point at all. Just get a smaller battery and mount it in the stock location to clear your intercooler piping. Mounting it in the trunk will have negative effects on the car's handling. Try this, go to your favorite canyon and bring another battery and some way to hold it down. Go for a little run with the extra battery out of the car, then strap it down in the back corner of the trunk, then go with it strapped down in the passenger rear seat. If you do not notice a difference then you are an inept driver! I used to go to my auto calsses through my favorite canyon with my little toolbox strapped down right where your battery is, it made a HUGE difference in the way the rear of the car felt. If you need to keep your back seat then you are wasting your time and money relocating your battery.....PERIOD!
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Old 02-11-2008, 05:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
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actuall these batteries are perfect for that just a little fyi use in my DD and works great with cold starts and everything including my 500w subs so
And that's the 11.5 pounder? I was thinking 15 pounds to handle something like that but if your ok (I don't have amps and subs) I should be fine with the 11.5lb then.
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Old 02-11-2008, 05:50 PM   #16
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Old 02-11-2008, 06:31 PM   #17
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my set up is a battery box in the trunk a old towel to keep it in one stop and thats it lol. battery box u can get from any part store really and th towel well take your pic. works really well so far!
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Old 02-11-2008, 07:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
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i have mine tied down with one of the autozone/ advanced auto parts -$20 universal tie downs... just screw it down with self taping screws, been with it more than a year and seen some good drift/track abuse and still holding the battery strong in place...
do you have a pic of your setup? i was planning to run a buddy club small battery, anyone heard anything about those?
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racepar1 View Post
But if you're not serious about weight management there is no point at all. If you need to keep your back seat then you are wasting your time and money relocating your battery.....PERIOD!
Again, not everyone cares for stripped interior and added road noise. Little gay lawnmower battery that you're buying won't start my car in 0F like we had today, but maybe works fine in Socal.

My wiring isn't in the engine bay, why would I want to keep the battery in there?

but if I you care so much about the weight of your car that you think extra 3ft of battery wire will cut .000000001th of a sec of your lap time, go take piss before getting in a race car - water is pretty damn heavy!!!!!!!


Personally I'm using something simple like this for my Optima.
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:02 PM   #20
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Again, not everyone cares for stripped interior and added road noise. Little gay lawnmower battery that you're buying won't start my car in 0F like we had today, but maybe works fine in Socal.

My wiring isn't in the engine bay, why would I want to keep the battery in there?

but if I you care so much about the weight of your car that you think extra 3ft of battery wire will cut .000000001th of a sec of your lap time, go take piss before getting in a race car - water is pretty damn heavy!!!!!!!
You are a dumbass! Why even bother to move your battery then? What advantage is there to moving your battery to the wrong spot in the car when you could just get a smaller one with the same CCA rating and not re-wire anything? Makes no sense at all! I do care about every 10th of a second at the track. I do care about every pound, even every ounce on my car. I care about these things because I am not trying to build an average track car I am trying to build the ultimate s-13 track monster. If you take the attitude of "oh that won't make MUCH of a difference so why do it" then you will end up with a car thar is 100lb heavier and at least 2 seconds slower. The real difference between an average track car and a true track monster is all in the details, it's funny that most people (you included) do not understand that.
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:09 PM   #21
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www.fbirides.com Done and done, though my opinion is kind of biased, as I worked there and my brother does as well... But I got a smokin' deal on the battery and got the optima tray that FBI designed as well... it ties down the optima from the BOTTOM so that there's no top strap that might touch the posts, which is never good. I'll end up mounting it right behind where the rear seats were, still between the wheels, probably.

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Old 02-11-2008, 11:09 PM   #22
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i bought a battery box from autozone. the plastic strap loop thingys are crap. i used some brass drawer handles instead. if youre drilling holes or using self tapping screws, make sure you know what's on the underside of what youre drilling through. i almost drilled through a fuel line (my battery sits where the rear right passenger seat used to be).
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:22 PM   #23
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Something I threw together real quick for a friend.


The mount.


The tie down.

I don't have any pictures after he cleaned it up, painted it and mounted the battery.

As for the battery in the engine compartment, versus passenger cabin versus trunk/rear of the car. Obviously the lowest and most central point on the chassis is the best place for weight, but there's a lot of other stuff that may need to be there, so that's not always possible. My battery is mounted where racerpar1's is, but a better spot would've been on the floor behind the passenger seat if you're worried about keeping it low.

Mounting the battery in the trunk is better than having it in the front of the car because it will help the static weight balance of the car. Although it isn't much, moving whatever you can towards the back of the car will help with the balance of the car. And depending on the size of the battery, it can help out. If it's all the way in the back of the car, it will increase the yaw moment of inertia of the car because it is further away from the center of gravity of the car when it's in the back versus when it's in the front. But this is because the center of gravity of the car is closer to the front axle. But even though moving the battery to the back will help with balance, it won't give you a 50/50 car, so there will still be more weight on the front.

To say moving the battery to the back won't help at all is wrong. Whenever you can move weight away from the front of the car, you do it. And if you really want a light battery, look at what volt phreaks offer. They have some really light, although really expensive batteries available right now.

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Old 02-11-2008, 11:31 PM   #24
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^^^An educated man! +1 for your intelligent and un-annoying response. I think the negative dynamic effects (pendulum effect) of having the battery back there outweigh the positive effect on the static weight distribution though.
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:40 PM   #25
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That's probably true if it's a normal sized battery all the way in the back of the trunk. But if you have it closer to the rear axle, the yaw effects won't be as great and you will have the benefit of the higher static rear weight.

Everything in racing and building cars is a compromise. You change one thing, it affects another. It's a never ending battle with your self, your car and the clock.
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Old 02-12-2008, 12:21 AM   #26
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s13

Well I know you have your cables already run to the back of the car but this is a inexspensive way to leave it up front if you have intercooler piping in the way. Find an Interstate battery dealer and get #dcm0035 It is for electric wheel chairs and is a sealed, deep cycle, long life battery designed to take some abuse. I have been running it in my s13 with stock alternator and know others that do also. The battery retails for about $75 If you want i can get one shipped to you for about $85. It is about 1/2 the size of the factory battery. I had a braile for a while and this works better and is WAY less and lasts longer.


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http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...r/CIMG0683.jpg
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Old 02-12-2008, 12:34 AM   #27
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Deja Vu, racepar my taylor setup is in that exact spot.
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Old 02-12-2008, 10:47 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by rhs13 View Post
i bought a battery box from autozone. the plastic strap loop thingys are crap. i used some brass drawer handles instead. if youre drilling holes or using self tapping screws, make sure you know what's on the underside of what youre drilling through. i almost drilled through a fuel line (my battery sits where the rear right passenger seat used to be).
yeah that is what i had, but the damn strap does not keep it from tipping over and now i have rust...
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Old 02-12-2008, 10:52 AM   #29
corriganjoshua
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Location: Wrong End of the Railroad Tracks
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are you all using a 4 gauge wire for the relocation?
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Old 02-12-2008, 10:58 AM   #30
Sir
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Originally Posted by racepar1 View Post
You are a dumbass! Why even bother to move your battery then? What advantage is there to moving your battery to the wrong spot in the car when you could just get a smaller one with the same CCA rating and not re-wire anything? Makes no sense at all!

blah blah blah
The real difference between an average track car and a true track monster is all in the details, it's funny that most people (you included) do not understand that.
you're assuming EVERYONE who owns a 240 needs to have it a track car.
Get off your high fucking horse. Some people use their cars as daily beaters.
Why place it in the trunk? because the motor thats going in there has the alternator on a right side, so I have to rewire the car anyway, might as well get rid of unneeded wires and place the fuse panel inside.
And the new motor is heavier than KA, might as well put shit in back to actually have traction.

And moving battery behind passanger isn't an option, some people acutally grow above 5'7", so moving the pass seat all the way back, doesn't leave enough room for a battery.

Again, I told you, I understand that this is best placement for YOUR APPLICATION, but its not BEST ever.
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