Overheating.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Deftec

Do you really think that would cause the relays to burn up though(car not cooling, fans running too long?) The car ran fine for about 2 weeks with this setup since I changed it to 2 relays, and it just stopped the other day when I posted this.

Nope, if the relays are truly bad (you test them by putting 12V current on one side of the coil and ground on the other - coil is 85 and 86 pins - and seeing if it 'clicks'), it's because you're passing too much current though them, or you've got it wired up wrong (fan power through the coil instead of the high-current circuit - 30 and 87 pins). I'd check all your crimps, as well as your ground (ground to the frame rail, or sheet metal welded to the frame rail - most of the car is simply glued together and does not handle high current well.

Originally Posted by Deftec

Update, took the car out, ran fine for a while, got it home and parked it, antifreeze starts blowing everywhere. The relays burned up again. I made 100% sure all air/etc was out of it. So the only option I can really do now is to take the thermostat out and see what it'll do.

If the thermostat wasn't opening, the radiator (and the water inside of it) wouldn't get hot, your engine would just melt itself to hell. You need to re-bleed the system, with the front elevated, heater on, until you get a solid stream of coolant coming out of the bleeder port - then drive the car, observe, and repeat.

[Deftec]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Nope, if the relays are truly bad (you test them by putting 12V current on one side of the coil and ground on the other - coil is 85 and 86 pins - and seeing if it 'clicks'), it's because you're passing too much current though them, or you've got it wired up wrong (fan power through the coil instead of the high-current circuit - 30 and 87 pins). I'd check all your crimps, as well as your ground (ground to the frame rail, or sheet metal welded to the frame rail - most of the car is simply glued together and does not handle high current well.



If the thermostat wasn't opening, the radiator (and the water inside of it) wouldn't get hot, your engine would just melt itself to hell. You need to re-bleed the system, with the front elevated, heater on, until you get a solid stream of coolant coming out of the bleeder port - then drive the car, observe, and repeat.

I did bleed it with it elevated and the heater on.

Crimps and all connections/etc are good...but how could I regulate the current being drawn from them? They run fine, but if the fans run for too long it burns the relays up. I also am led to believe I need a higher PSI radiator cap, I put a new one on, and when the car gets warm, half throttle it vents slightly, so I'm going to try and up it to a 15psi.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Deftec

I did bleed it with it elevated and the heater on.

Crimps and all connections/etc are good...but how could I regulate the current being drawn from them? They run fine, but if the fans run for too long it burns the relays up. I also am led to believe I need a higher PSI radiator cap, I put a new one on, and when the car gets warm, half throttle it vents slightly, so I'm going to try and up it to a 15psi.

I run a 1.3 bar cap, so 15psi is definitely fine.

You can't regulate the current going through each relay using the relays, you have to change how the load is applied - if you're sure that the wires are going to the correct pins on the relay (which I'm not), you need to use relays rated for the huge current you're pulling.

[Deftec]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

I run a 1.3 bar cap, so 15psi is definitely fine.

You can't regulate the current going through each relay using the relays, you have to change how the load is applied - if you're sure that the wires are going to the correct pins on the relay (which I'm not), you need to use relays rated for the huge current you're pulling.

I'll get the relay off tomorrow and write out exactly what goes where.