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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#31 | |
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I pulled the rear fenders on SilentDancer's blue S15 and was crying on the inside the whole time. You can't see it all that well, but he was getting body work done, so its perfect, hahaha: ![]() I can usually guarantee a smooth pull on a S13/S14 up to about a 1/2 inch.
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#33 |
Nissanaholic!
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#34 |
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so i just finished UNROLLING the fender and cut off the lip. the rear fenders are now kinda like overs. the fender comes down from the window without the lip that gets rolled in. if that makes any sense. they are sharp lol. i carefully filed them and masked them off to spray the raw edge to prevent rust.
i also cut out my rear inner fender metal. almost knoop-spec. although im not trying to pull my fenders as much, i did this because i was grinding the shit out of my WHEEL on the inner fender. like metal to metal grinding and it fucked up my other wheels. my problem is solved now, just have to find a way to seal it up. dont think im gonna be able to weld onto the back side of the painted fender so im stumped. dont wanna burn the paint. any suggestions? ill try to get pics up when there's light out. oh yea, went and did some donuts and smoke in cabin is a huge issue. |
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#35 | |
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#36 | |
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Early VW's in the front suck pretty good too with that dual metal liner in them...totally a MFER.
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#37 |
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Yeah, there are literally 26 bolts/clips holding the TSX front fender liners on. I use a razor blade and cut out a semicircle of the splash guard so I can roll the front fenders (on any car that still has them).
Although, I don't use a roller on front fenders because they're super flimsy on most Japanese cars. I use a body hammer that doesn't take paint off and the 'fender finisher' tool. They come out way nicer looking, it just takes a little more time. I should finally be able to get my freaking metal welded back in the rear of my car tonight! Marcus, you could fiberglass the area closed, but it may require some tending to over time. OR you could tack weld the metal to the inside part of your fender and use seam sealer and great stuff to stick it to the outside part and seal up the cabin.
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#41 |
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UUggghhhhh, just finished getting all of the metal back in....it sucked, haha.
You might as well use sheet metal...but the trailer fender was just enough material to do the job. I had to hack it up into pieces though. I'll post pictures in a min, I need to clean the metal shavings off of me. In the mean time. Look for a body hammer like the one second from the left with the different colored tips: ![]() And Eastwood makes the Fender Finisher tool, so you can buy that through their website.
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#42 |
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Here are the shitty shots:
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I need to spray a bunch of 'great stuff' in the inner fender wells, and I am going to use some seam sealer on the inside of the wheel well, and paint them with some rust prevention shit.
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#47 |
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Ripped this photo out of Om1krons thread:
![]() His metal work is much better then mine....but he has a much much less risk of bashing the rear of his car into a cement barrier, hahahaha.
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#55 |
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Not to be rude, but how is this kind of work still called fitting under the stock sheet metal?
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#56 |
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well it is still behind the stock outer skin.. that just closes the gap between the fender and the stock inner fender.. or the distance that its apart since its been pulled...
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#57 | |
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![]() Notice how the top of the fender is almost level with the door handle, that's probably 3 or 4 inches higher than it is stock. That SC looks like it had a widebody constructed using the stock fenders which are then blended using more metal much like this guy did: ![]() Link: http://g35driver.com/forums/picture-...wide-body.html Either that, or they are just well-molded overs. |
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#58 |
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#60 | |
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