So what made you choose CA/SR/RB/LS/JZ/ETC.

[Hashiriya415]

Originally Posted by ShakotanGazelle

pls put a vroombox in this car

Rather hear something new. Same old internal combustion engine have been around too long. It's getting soooooo boring.

@7:19

[Y0SH]

Originally Posted by Hashiriya415

All electric.
400hp & 600ft lbs.
LS tranny.

Can't take any more of the poison from gasoline. And can't afford the cost of gas when getting 5mpg

And I have no interested in knowing what a smog station is anymore.

Im very interested in this set up!!! Any more info, or build thread?

[Hashiriya415]

http://www.evsource.com/tls_warp9.php

[az_240]

^Soo sicc!... You have to make a build thread on it.

[Chernobyl]

Rb20det here. The decision was purely economic at the time. I got a great deal on everything needed for the swap. I would never do an rb again.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

A turbo LSX and only 11's? Why waste the money and go through the trouble? I/C/E and a tune would net 11's in an S-chassis.

longevity reasons. We are talking 5psi of boost on a stock lsx with stock SE wheels to go deep 11's with a shitty walbro.

Once you start thinking real fuel system, real boost, real car, parts and prices add up fast, and reliability goes down.

A stock sr20 at 380rwhp would be at wit's end, where an lsx at 440rwhp would be barely working, I could shift at 6200rpm on the peanut cam and still go mid 11's spinning through second with my 2.3 60' time.
Its like an easy button for cars at 2800lbs.

[jr_ss]

I suppose my SR is beyond wits end then making 100whp more than your 380whp claim.

So you want to throw the heavy iron block into your S-chassis? Those are the only ones that hold up reliably speaking to boost.

[simmode1]

Originally Posted by Hashiriya415

All electric.
400hp & 600ft lbs.
LS tranny.

Can't take any more of the poison from gasoline. And can't afford the cost of gas when getting 5mpg

And I have no interested in knowing what a smog station is anymore.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k...t%2Blb%2B2.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...%2Bft%2Blb.JPG

Interesting. You just gave me an idea. And it looks someone's already done it - Electric RX8.

Much better than our old junk chassis. Time to do some heavy reading...

[Matej]

Go Superturbodiesel.

[racepar1]

I have to admit, I get whatever I get the best deal on. Right now I've got a CA18 that I'm rebuilding, came with most of the parts for the re-build. I've always liked the CA's though. They're TINY little motors and the design is basically a mini RB. If you drive a bone stock, nice running CA you really can't tell much of a difference between a comparable SR. They've got more potential than people give them credit for.

Before I get the CA going though I'm swapping in a KADE that I got for STUPID cheap. It came with some nice aftermarket parts and the COMPLETE, WORKING A/C system. My KAE runs well, but it's got almost 300k on it and it's burning oil. Also, no A/C. I don't want to be in ANY rush on the CA, I want it done RIGHT.

Never been a big SR fan primarily because of the idiotic valvetrain design.

I truly CANNOT STAND almost any cross-manufacturer engine swap. The ONLY one that I actually like is the GM LS series swap. That's the only engine that you can't find a Nissan equivalent for. 1UZ = VH45, 1/2JZ = RB25/26, other American V8's = cheap/broke...

[mad-ass]

I am going LS, because I want V8.

Did most of you guys not know that you can have AC with SR swap? I had AC in my S14 with S13 SR, using the factory working KA AC compressor and Cody Ace AC brackets.

Windows up AC cranked on while waiting in line for next lap in hot summer day drift events is where it's at.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by mad-ass

I am going LS, because I want V8.

Did most of you guys not know that you can have AC with SR swap? I had AC in my S14 with S13 SR, using the factory working KA AC compressor and Cody Ace AC brackets.

Windows up AC cranked on while waiting in line for next lap in hot summer day drift events is where it's at.

I had functioning air on my SR swap back in 06' prior to Cody offering brackets. It was nice, that's for sure.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

I suppose my SR is beyond wits end then making 100whp more than your 380whp claim.

So you want to throw the heavy iron block into your S-chassis? Those are the only ones that hold up reliably speaking to boost.

you have a stock piston, stock gasket sr20 producing 480rwhp?

It will not last 200,000 miles like that. You'd be lucky to get 15,000 miles out of a stock engine at 480rwhp.
Thats over 500bhp, the rods and pistons are in jeopardy, yeah. Beyond wit's end for sure.

[Matej]

No modded engine lasts 200K miles, and I doubt the owner expects it to.
Even most stock motors will have trouble reaching such mileage.

[O$mo]

Originally Posted by racepar1

I truly CANNOT STAND almost any cross-manufacturer engine swap. The ONLY one that I actually like is the GM LS series swap. That's the only engine that you can't find a Nissan equivalent for. 1UZ = VH45, 1/2JZ = RB25/26, other American V8's = cheap/broke...

Amen on that cross-manufacturer swaps point

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

you have a stock piston, stock gasket sr20 producing 480rwhp?

It will not last 200,000 miles like that. You'd be lucky to get 15,000 miles out of a stock engine at 480rwhp.
Thats over 500bhp, the rods and pistons are in jeopardy, yeah. Beyond wit's end for sure.

I missed the stock part. However, if you think a boosted LSX is going to last 200k, your beyond wits end. As stated, no modified engine is going to last anywhere near OEM life spans under much more stress, be it a V8 with 5psi or a 4cyl at 20psi.

[Silverbullet]

SR20, simply because I got a good deal on it. I bought it already built SR20 with no miles for stupid cheap. Other wise I would have went KA-T to be honest.

[simmode1]

Sooo... did some research on the high powered electric vehicle conversion...LOL if you think LSx is expensive. Better off buying a Tesla Roadster probably.

[ryan15]

My most recent achievement is a VH45. I've had two SR's, which one I fully built, a few KA's and an RB20. I just wanted a really solid and reliable/different swap. Also, it gets a lot attention and confuses people too which is kind of cool.

SR20DET

1) Because its efficient.
2) Because its powerful.
3) Because less is more.
4) Because its period correct.
5) Because its factory original.
6) Because its designed to fit & work.
7) Because making power is inexpensive.
8) Because the next person who owns/inherits my car will appreciate that its not a hack job and that the end product looks like what you see in the 180SX brochure.

[greddy2die]

I went LS for a few reasons

1: When i initially bought the motor 6 years ago, LS S-Chassis' weren't as common, i didn't want the normal SR, RB, JZ swap
2: i got tired of turbo b/s
3: torque...instantly
4: parts & maintenance cost.
5: because i could afford to...lol

[smoked240]

A built RD28T would be worth trying. It's only sohc. Would be killer with a rb26 head. Diesel torque is wild.

[ATLspeed]

I choose the 2jz because, after becoming "automotive culture" literate, it was the motor that was in the supra. Before I was into cars I seen a supra at car dealership (I was about 16/17) and wanted it. Found out the price tags for supra's and it was out of my league.

Years later I became familiar with cars and bought a 240sx. Wanted to do a rb25 swap but I kept buying parts for my built KA-T and just ran with that for years (I loved it). Ended up parting out my setup for a 2jz and I'm happy with it....minus not having AC yet lol

Le Ole KA-T (Holset he341 @ 20psi)


Sound clip of the 2jz (Don't have any recent pics lol)

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

I missed the stock part. However, if you think a boosted LSX is going to last 200k, your beyond wits end. As stated, no modified engine is going to last anywhere near OEM life spans under much more stress, be it a V8 with 5psi or a 4cyl at 20psi.

Well now wait a minute. I said 5psi. Imagine you drive up north where the elevation is +5000 feet or so, that is similar to removing 3~ psi (I am not doing the math here, but its close).

Same with driving below sea level, if we could do it, it would add ~3+ psi to the atmospheric pressure. Which after adiabatic efficiency factors in, is about 5psi from a turbocharger.

So are you saying a stock LSx engine wouldn't last as long, if I could drive it a couple thousand feet below sea level? Of course not.
By the same reasoning it would last longer at higher altitudes (nonsense)
Furthermore, if the temperature drops from 80*F to -5*F (30*F at the inlet) you are also gaining 3~psi ( again, not doing the math, but the idea is the same: more molecules/area = more power) which by your reasoning would also increase wear and tear substantially.

5psi is nothing. The engine wont even know it's turbocharged. If you didn't want to spend on injectors of course you wouldn't even need to upgrade the injectors, not because 5psi is within the limits but because we have the ability to dial adjust the boost pressure and regulate the proper number to be safe(how about 4psi at 7000rpm due to headroom, 6psi at 6000 for VE, 3psi at 3000-4000 for safety around peak best torque on pump gas), and especially if you play with the fuel pressure for headroom when you want it (just for one dyno run to show X00 then I set the fuel pressure back down and drive it at 440bhp). The idea is to overcome the engine's VE shortcoming on the stock cam. You say 100% VE at 4000rpm? Okay, but not at 6000rpm. The 5psi comes in to fill the gap, giving you a full cylinder (about as full as it was without the turbo at 4000rpm). I see no additional significant "stress" that the engine is otherwise unprepared for.
And finally, look at all the 7psi supercharger kits available for practically every car in the world, from miatas and corvettes and 350z's and more. All those kits work with stock engines and do not have any substantial impact on the service life of the engines, when they are well maintained. Again I will point out how depending on your altitude, and temperature, all engines are +/- 5~psi of "boost" in the USA regardless. If I live in Colorado, and I wish to simulate Florida's atmospheric pressure, I need that 5psi just to get back to "normal".

[NISSeAN]

KA24DE. Because I'd rather turn than go-fast and KA-T because I own a 240 and not a 180.

[BoostinIX]

KA got all leaky



Went SR



Got bored. Got involved a lot more with guys at Sikky. So...only natural.

[JZ78]

There you go, nice!

sent from my mind

[rawgarage]

2JZ because JZ sounds cool and 1J is a lil old.:::
LS because I wanted to build a 5.3 budget build

And RB26 because it came in my GTR

[Croustibat]

CA18DET ... because that is what we get in a bone stock S13 here