Om1krons Build thread cause I hate the lack of them! S14

[lflkajfj12123]

my knock sensor is fucked on my KA i have to run premium otherwise it starts running super rich and wastes my gas

[Xbroke_kidX]

Pictures really dont show how nice this car is. I wasnt to amazed from the pictures but I saw it in person at K1 and it looks really good. Good job man.

[Om1kron]

Thanks a lot, I appreciate it. I feel the same way about Forrest Wangs S14... looks like a boring black car on vskf's in pictures. then you see it in person and it's even quiet while drifting.

[Xbroke_kidX]

Plus Forrest's amazing driving makes it look even better.

[Om1kron]

I think Flybert had some similar problems with his car, turned out to be a bad maf... that fixed it for a bit. he got a power fc d-jethro and eliminated the maf and car runs great now.

I've pretty much narrowed it down to an engine management system to fine tune everything to the bone and just switch to map.

I hate dealing with maf, but the cost of converting doesn't even seem to be worth it. I just want to drive my car...

[importdude]

hook up consult and see whats happening with the sensors and what the ecu is doing

[Om1kron]

I don't have mine hooked up, but it looks like I'll have no choice but to get it wired up.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by s0apgun

my knock sensor is fucked on my KA i have to run premium otherwise it starts running super rich and wastes my gas

Does it go off if you just attack it to another spot(IE: Intake manifold, firewall, etc etc). I know that removes the point in even have it, but a stock KA shouldn't ping, so if you just attach it to 'nothing' it'll leave it in the non knock map and you should be set.

Again, it's a crude way to 'fix' an issue.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

I think Flybert had some similar problems with his car, turned out to be a bad maf... that fixed it for a bit. he got a power fc d-jethro and eliminated the maf and car runs great now.

That's why I suggested that from the get go. There is NO reason for it to sit there at that RPM like that this side of an electrical issue.

If you just want to drive your car, and aren't going for the biggest HP, just throw a rom ecu on the car and enjoy it. I'd hate to spend all that cash on a EMS with a map to fix such an easy issue ya know, as it's still not guaranteed to fix the issue.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

I don't have mine hooked up, but it looks like I'll have no choice but to get it wired up.

Super Easy. Just get a plug from any old Nissan and wire it direct. I like keeping the port on the passenger side as well, as it eliminates cables all across the steering wheel and my legs. It's a great tool.

[importdude]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

I don't have mine hooked up, but it looks like I'll have no choice but to get it wired up.

just grab a plug like posted above(g20s are right in front of dash very easy to remove

and or just directly wire it to the ecu harness
its 5 wires only

[Om1kron]

I have the plug. I just don't have the wires in place on my f3 plug for the consult. I know which pins it is, I just snipped the wires and tied them to the side. There is a post on here somewhere to show how to wire it back up.

But I eventually plan on getting a twin scroll setup for my engine hence why I would buy a standalone engine management system. I have a few knock sensors but even on my KA both still threw 34. It's normally some gay wiring issue.

My maf wiring is fine, because I can put a bad maf on their or keep it unplugged and it runs limp and makes my spark plugs black, backfires and all that madness.

this was with a boost leak before I changed the turbo housing, same wiring setup. before I did the knock sensor trick.

[Om1kron]

So I flipped the ECU today to do the proper code procedure. I believe I left the ecu in the position to read codes, 55 when I flipped it around automatically when I put it on the on position.

So I did the red bulb mode 1 engine off testing, bulb works. pass.

I did the mode 1 engine one test, engine warm 2000rpm, no light. pass
(if the light comes on it means bad ecu or cam angle sensor error.)

I did the mode 2 engine off test after running the engine, engine off key set to on, 5 slow blings, 5 fast blinks. pass

I did the mode 2 engine on test, 5 slow blinks at running temp solid 2000rpm rev. pass
(this is to make sure the 02 sensor is working.)

So I'll let you know if it runs any different now that it's back to it's proper position all the way counter clockwise.

[Om1kron]

My car officially hates me...

drove to LA today went to girlfriends moms, around the corner from the police academy... some cops roll by my car, check it out then do burn outs onto the on ramp lol.

I'm driving home in bumper to bumper traffic after stopping in old town pasadena to pick up new years tickets to menage.

I hear a pop and my battery and brake light come on, I immediately pull off of the freeway in front of someones house, pop my hood and somehow the alternator belt came off, and in the process grabbed my TPS sensor and snapped it off of the throttle body.

Wires are a little fucked, but both studs that hold it in place are now broken inside of the throttle body.

I am sitting here trying to figure out how in the fuck i'm going to get this belt back on the alternator, turns out the nut that holds the pulley in place came loose. So it's been vibrating back and forth and gave the belt enough slack to come loose.

So I took the nut off and the pully, wrapped the belt around it and pulled it back over it's stud, screwed on the nut and secured it temporarily with the gum I was chewing.

The throttle position sensor I grabbed two zip ties and tied it down in place for the time being.

It got me home, no problems.

FML.

[codyace]

Ah man that's a killer! Of all things to bust off too, the freakin TPS

Did the car run any better? Who did the harness for you, yourself?

[Om1kron]

I did the harness myself...

car didn't really run any differently under load.

I think what pisses me off the most is after I had to zip tie the tps back onto the throttle body for the time being low end response is like twice as good as it was before, but still breaks up past 4000 rpms lol.

[lflkajfj12123]

haha you could have just used your girlfriends pantyhose for a temp belt

[Om1kron]

the belt didn't snap or get damaged, the alternator just let it come loose. Luisgonz said that it felt loose and it has been squealing as of a few weeks ago. I should've tightened it.

[lflkajfj12123]

yeah squealing = loose on every one of my s chassis

[OBEEWON]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

So I took the nut off and the pully, wrapped the belt around it and pulled it back over it's stud, screwed on the nut and secured it temporarily with the gum I was chewing.

The throttle position sensor I grabbed two zip ties and tied it down in place for the time being.

LOL, thats some McGuyver ish. Are you sure you aren't Jamaican??


For real. The car is just working its problems out. Dont be too discouraged. You'll get everything worked out I'm sure. Wish I could give you the answer but looks like you've been over everything I can think of or someone has mentioned it.

But the fact that the ECU is giving you 55 makes me suspect a MAF. ECU won't see a bad MAF, and the idle test/limp mode test is not 100% fool proof. OR there is a leak that opens up at boost.

Can you drive smoothly past 4 grand without boosting or does it break up either way?

A) If it's under boost I had an issue with my spark blowing out due to gap (I was at 22 psi).

B) Or it could be a bad coil pack, they break up intermittently when going bad especially higher rpm under boost. Check them for cracks.

C) Also check your timing. Restab the CAS per FSM, even go as far as checking the dimples on the chain.

[s13pignose]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

LOL, thats some McGuyver ish.

Beat me to it lol, sick work.

[codyace]

If you did the wiring, I'd just recheck what I've done at that point and go from there. I (myself) dont' trust myself with the wiring stuff...to me it's cheaper to just pay 100 bucks to get it done...man oh man I'd be wanting to shoot people over wire issues. As I tell my buddies...I'll stick with engine building

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

But the fact that the ECU is giving you 55 makes me suspect a MAF. ECU won't see a bad MAF, and the idle test/limp mode test is 100% fool proof. OR there is a leak that opens up at boost.

Most certainly. ECU's will not always show all fault codes. I never thought about suggesting that.

However the stumper, is that hte car will rev and pull to redline, so long as he doesn't go WOT immediatly...but can at redline...it's very odd.

Did you watch the video? It's not a hardware issue if you ask me...electronical for sure (including maf/sensors). I'm just confused as to why it's depending on part throttle...maybe it's reverting to some sort of wacky pull timing map, but it shouldn't restrict the RPM's from revving...which is why I initially thought it was failsafe mode of some sort, or the stupid ecu holding out...it's just odd odd odd.

[OBEEWON]

Yeah Ace, something you just said reminded me of how I fixed a similar prob.

I doubt you have the wiring wrong Wayne. MAF wiring is pretty hard to mess up (like 3 wires) and if it was the car would be running alot worse. Check you intake for leaks. Any VAC leaks will make for a discrepency in the MAF reading and cause rich popping or whatev. If you have a custom intake make sure your MAF is far enough from your turbo. IIRC MAF needs to be at least 10-12 inches from the turbo or it will cause turbulence inside the MAF.

I had all those things wrong and I fixed them after swapping MAFS and doing timing and it fixed my issue.

[OBEEWON]

Originally Posted by codyace

However the stumper, is that hte car will rev and pull to redline, so long as he doesn't go WOT immediatly...but can at redline...it's very odd.

If this is the case then I would get on a dyno and look for a leak opening up at positive pressure.

I had a hairline crack on my hotpipe that opened up to about 1/8 inch under pressure. Couplers and aluminum charge pipes especially like to open up when boost is climbing. Usually found on the higher pressure side of the intercooler before the pressure drop.

[Om1kron]

to answer the question, I am panamanian, jamaican, and irish. And this is why I suspected it's a boost leak all along. it revs just fine, as long as I don't goose it it goes all the way up just fine...

the slightest change in boost pressure needed to get up, it wont hold it. but start at the highest, the leak would be irrelevant as 9 other pounds of boost is still getting through where 1 pound may be leaking somewhere.

[OBEEWON]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

to answer the question, I am panamanian, jamaican, and irish.

GTHO, Im Jamaican, Panamanian, and Scottish.

[Om1kron]

lol so we're brothers, yet hate each other haha.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

GTHO, Im Jamaican, Panamanian, and Scottish.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

lol so we're brothers, yet hate each other haha.

No WAY!!! I'm Panamanian, Jamaican, and...

... eh who'm I kidding, no I'm not. Where's the love, ya'll.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

I doubt you have the wiring wrong Wayne. MAF wiring is pretty hard to mess up (like 3 wires) and if it was the car would be running alot worse. Check you intake for leaks. Any VAC leaks will make for a discrepency in the MAF reading and cause rich popping or whatev. If you have a custom intake make sure your MAF is far enough from your turbo. IIRC MAF needs to be at least 10-12 inches from the turbo or it will cause turbulence inside the MAF.

And a bend is typically suggested as well to help remove any chance of reversion from the turbo...this is SUCH a commonly messed up thing I see with guys making custom inlets on other MAF cars...and sort of straight short shot and the MAF goes nutso. Even on N/A cars they suggest not to have the straight shot intakes.

[Om1kron]

well my intake is a joke, there is at least 3 couplers on that bitch but it does have a bend in it.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

well my intake is a joke, there is at least 3 couplers on that bitch but it does have a bend in it.

baller ass body work

thrift store intake


Just teasin.

[Om1kron]

Oh don't worry man, if it were up to me financially id have a tomei crate engine in it and some crazy ass turbo set up. But baby steps, I'm sort of glad that I'm having these problems because I learn more about the set up and can help other people with their problems.