Project S14a rebuild – a comprehensive and detailed guide

[Petrol]

I bought this car from a friend of mine 5 years ago and thought it would be a good idea to restore it. I have posted loads of info in the thread. If anyone has any suggestions, comment or questions, please feel free to fire away.

Thread is here

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826

I also made this vid of the car before I stripped it – right click save target as - 25MB

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/p.../2005_edit.mpg

All comments and questions welcome

[projectRDM]

I'm only halfway into the read, but you're doing an AMAZING job with it, keep it up. +1 for you.

[kevtrinh]

attention to detail... for sure!

[kouki_s14]

wow that's some serious work, nice job

[20 til 3]

wow your crazy... but in no way is that a bad thing

nothing like restoring a mid 90's car lol, i'm supprised at how many things didnt break when you took them off

[statik]

wow, seriously, thats impressive levels of detail

[Slidin240Wayz]

46 Pages to go.

Bittersweet.

[Bizzytony]

wow +1 for sure. I know your pain. I am helping my dad restore a 61 corvette. Fiberglass body but 40 year old rust. The diff took hours to clean, as did the solid axle. But its well worth it, that gel you are using looks amazing i will be ordering that soon! Thanks! you rock and im only 1/4 of the way thru!

[nissanguy13]

Damn I wish I had the patience you have. Looks good.

[ZX88]

do you make car commercials? cause that video was quality bro.

[tunerzimage]

The build looks amazing, such attention to detail. +1

[Petrol]

Thanks for the comments guys.

nothing like restoring a mid 90's car lol, i'm supprised at how many things didnt break when you took them off

To be honest I nearly sold both my S13 and S14a and bought something old skool… Glad I didn’t though since I am doing all of this on my driveway. I don’t have the facilities for a full on restoration project.

Originally Posted by Bizzytony

wow +1 for sure. I know your pain. I am helping my dad restore a 61 corvette. Fiberglass body but 40 year old rust. The diff took hours to clean, as did the solid axle. But its well worth it, that gel you are using looks amazing i will be ordering that soon! Thanks! you rock and im only 1/4 of the way thru!

I would love to restore something really old like a badass corvette, like I said though I don’t have the facilities. I did quite a big write up on rust removal / prevention. I will dig it out for you.

Originally Posted by ZX88

do you make car commercials? cause that video was quality bro.

Thanks, I work in television so I have the use of some decent video kit.

[Petrol]

Originally Posted by Petrol

I did quite a big write up on rust removal / prevention. I will dig it out for you.

First of all I have no experience with rust "killing" primers or paint on rust products. There are loads available – POR-15, Finnagans No.1 and Hammerite smooth are some that spring to mind. I also have very little experience with rust converters, these products are applied to rust and "stabilise" it ready for primer, Kurust is an example.
The reason I have not tended to use these products is that you are relying on the product to stop the rust, if it doesn’t do the job due to it being a poor product or poor preparation / application then it’s all been a waste of time. When metal rusts, it goes porous and forms layers. One of my biggest concerns with these types of products is getting the product to penetrate to the very bottom of any pitting. If the product is quite thick then it will just form a skin on top. Oxygen is required for corrosion to occur so if a paint film is applied over the top, it will continue to corrode as oxygen will still be present. Another preparation concern is oil or grease, if there’s any of this evident then the product will not do its job. I have always gone for mechanical or chemical removal for these reasons.

Shotblasting is the best way to remove rust, it’s quick but the only drawback is the blast media gets everywhere. Done right it will remove all rust and leave a very slightly pitted finish offering a good key for primer. Wire brushes also work well but what you must remember it can be difficult to get all the rust out of the pitting, softer brushes with thin bristles can be useful for this. Twisted knotted wire brushes used in angle grinders are to stiff. One drawback with wire brushes it that the brush gets contaminated with microscopic rust particles so you are spreading these particles over the area as you are working.
I have only tried 1 brand of chemical rust remover – Deox from Bilt Hamber. They have 2 products, Deox C which makes up a solution for parts to be dipped and Deox Gel. The Gel can be used to spot treat areas underneath the shell or areas impossible to get to with a wire brush. It does however take time. Once applied it needs covering with cling film to prevent it drying out and ideally needs leaving 48 hours. It’s then got to be scrubbed with Scotchbright before being washed off and dried as quickly as possible. I have had to re apply it up to 3 times in certain circumstances. It does work though.


What do I apply under the arches/floorpan?
The best rule of thumb is to replicate manufacturer’s methods – Stonechip under the arches and wax in box sections.
Bare shells are dipped in electrocoat at the factory, this is obviously not an option for DIY but the next best thing I have found to apply to bare metal is a zinc rich primer. Unlike conventional primers which are porous, a zinc primer will protect the steel from corrosion. This can be applied by brush or spray. For maximum protection 2 coats of 2K epoxy paint should be applied over the primer which again can be applied by brush or spray. Please be aware however that 2K products are hazardous and it’s essential to use a mask. As an alternative, a chassis black 1K product could be used. Stonechip should then be sprayed on top. I don’t recommend brushing it on but aerosols are available from your local bodyshop supplier.
I don’t recommend spraying wax products over the top of stonechip, it will soften the stonechip reducing its effectiveness. Dirt and salt will also stick to it.

My thoughts on Waxoyl
Inside the sills is factory coated with a rustproofing wax. It’s a very thin coat and has a smooth finish. Any water that enters the cavity will naturally run down and out of the drain holes.
The problem with applying Waxoyl is achieving this perfect finish inside the box section. What you typically end up with is a very rippled finish. I believe that this causes water to puddle in the Waxoyl. The problem being that this water evaporates and since there is very little or no ventilation inside the sills it has no where to go other than condense inside. I have also found that spraying Waxoyl on rust does not "kill" it, it just corrodes behind the Waxoyl.



Hope this info is useful

[Anto]

WOW

The work you put into this car is amazing.
Removing every single bit of rust & even PLATING the washer reservoir screws as well?!

+1 million to you.

[dued]

I would like to go through the entire thread and save it, if anyone gets to it before me, please post a link to DL it in here.

[daryl337]

Deox gel pls. Gimmeh! Haha.. but seriously.. whered you get it?
:3

[Bizzytony]

Originally Posted by Petrol

First of all I have no experience with rust "killing" primers or paint on rust products. There are loads available – POR-15, Finnagans No.1 and Hammerite smooth are some that spring to mind. I also have very little experience with rust converters, these products are applied to rust and "stabilise" it ready for primer, Kurust is an example.
The reason I have not tended to use these products is that you are relying on the product to stop the rust, if it doesn’t do the job due to it being a poor product or poor preparation / application then it’s all been a waste of time. When metal rusts, it goes porous and forms layers. One of my biggest concerns with these types of products is getting the product to penetrate to the very bottom of any pitting. If the product is quite thick then it will just form a skin on top. Oxygen is required for corrosion to occur so if a paint film is applied over the top, it will continue to corrode as oxygen will still be present. Another preparation concern is oil or grease, if there’s any of this evident then the product will not do its job. I have always gone for mechanical or chemical removal for these reasons.

Shotblasting is the best way to remove rust, it’s quick but the only drawback is the blast media gets everywhere. Done right it will remove all rust and leave a very slightly pitted finish offering a good key for primer. Wire brushes also work well but what you must remember it can be difficult to get all the rust out of the pitting, softer brushes with thin bristles can be useful for this. Twisted knotted wire brushes used in angle grinders are to stiff. One drawback with wire brushes it that the brush gets contaminated with microscopic rust particles so you are spreading these particles over the area as you are working.
I have only tried 1 brand of chemical rust remover – Deox from Bilt Hamber. They have 2 products, Deox C which makes up a solution for parts to be dipped and Deox Gel. The Gel can be used to spot treat areas underneath the shell or areas impossible to get to with a wire brush. It does however take time. Once applied it needs covering with cling film to prevent it drying out and ideally needs leaving 48 hours. It’s then got to be scrubbed with Scotchbright before being washed off and dried as quickly as possible. I have had to re apply it up to 3 times in certain circumstances. It does work though.


What do I apply under the arches/floorpan?
The best rule of thumb is to replicate manufacturer’s methods – Stonechip under the arches and wax in box sections.
Bare shells are dipped in electrocoat at the factory, this is obviously not an option for DIY but the next best thing I have found to apply to bare metal is a zinc rich primer. Unlike conventional primers which are porous, a zinc primer will protect the steel from corrosion. This can be applied by brush or spray. For maximum protection 2 coats of 2K epoxy paint should be applied over the primer which again can be applied by brush or spray. Please be aware however that 2K products are hazardous and it’s essential to use a mask. As an alternative, a chassis black 1K product could be used. Stonechip should then be sprayed on top. I don’t recommend brushing it on but aerosols are available from your local bodyshop supplier.
I don’t recommend spraying wax products over the top of stonechip, it will soften the stonechip reducing its effectiveness. Dirt and salt will also stick to it.

My thoughts on Waxoyl
Inside the sills is factory coated with a rustproofing wax. It’s a very thin coat and has a smooth finish. Any water that enters the cavity will naturally run down and out of the drain holes.
The problem with applying Waxoyl is achieving this perfect finish inside the box section. What you typically end up with is a very rippled finish. I believe that this causes water to puddle in the Waxoyl. The problem being that this water evaporates and since there is very little or no ventilation inside the sills it has no where to go other than condense inside. I have also found that spraying Waxoyl on rust does not "kill" it, it just corrodes behind the Waxoyl.



Hope this info is useful

Thank you so so so much. you are a god. As far as facilities go we are doing the restoration in our driveway as well. It is hard a lift would make it fly by! thanks for that info hawaii=humidity+salt= rust rust and more rust. Thank you. you rule!

[5t341tH]

that deox gel is krazy! i like how the hub looked after the gel.
BRAND NEW

[shinhed]

/\ I too found this most impressive+

Although I was looking forward to more upgrades, your thread is still top tier++

[Prok0]

Awesome thread, I read it last night when you posted the link in the pics thread..
Amazing attention to detail, I would like to know if you know of any other similiar rust removal gel's that would be more readily available in the US, because I tried to visit the Deox site and it wasnt functioning.. And Im not sure if it is available in the US...

Also, I want your factory diff cooler.. haha, that thing is baller. I was reading and apparently not alot of the UK guys like/want them for some reason... you should tell one of them to hook it up

[smellslikecurry]

so much hard work



i seriously pray that nothing bad ever happens to this car...

[5t341tH]

also that video u made is amazing quality. superb video skills

[CoasTek240]

so intense....
message length

[dued]

I found an easy way to save the entire thread. First go to this link to view the thread in printable version (10 pages). Then save each page 1 by 1. I did it and it only took about 15 mins. I wouldn't mind e-mailing the results to you guys but the file size is 153mb in zipped format.

[RUTH'LESSDET]

wow i wish i could do that

[Petrol]

Originally Posted by daryl337

Deox gel pls. Gimmeh! Haha.. but seriously.. whered you get it?

Originally Posted by daryl337

:3

It’s manufactured in the UK.
http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html

I have contacted them and sent this link, should have some more info soon and I will post up.

Originally Posted by Bizzytony

Thank you so so so much. you are a god. As far as facilities go we are doing the restoration in our driveway as well. It is hard a lift would make it fly by! thanks for that info hawaii=humidity+salt= rust rust and more rust. Thank you. you rule!

No problem, I reckon it would take half the time with a ramp (lift) It’s now cold in the UK and nothing is drying.

Originally Posted by 5t341tH

that deox gel is krazy! i like how the hub looked after the gel.

Originally Posted by 5t341tH

BRAND NEW

Had to give it a wire brushing but it does the business though.

Thanks for the kind words. The thread is usually updated daily but if there are any significant updates, I will post it up.

[ROUGE180]

Wow.. that vid was pretty dope lol.. looks like something you would see on speed channel.

[MAGILLA]

wow I must say. That is the most well done rear end refurb I have ever seen.

[slim]

nice work man. someday i will have the money and time off to do that to the hatch.

[mrmephistopheles]

I think Naval Jelly is the closest thing the US has to Deox Gel.